Carl F. Bucherer’s Elevated Minute Repeater Tourbillons
The brand’s 135th-anniversary celebration continues with three watches made from gold or set with gems.
The watches, each of which is limited to one piece only, showcase three unique yet equally impressive complications—an automatic winding system, “floating” tourbillon, and minute repeater regulator—as well as three distinct aesthetics. The first of the three is the most classic. It features an 18-carat yellow construction, including the case, the index markers and the dial, which is finished in an intricate moss-green guilloché. This member of the trilogy is complete with a complementary moss-green nubuck leather strap.
The second 135th-anniversary model has a totally different look and feel. It also features a full 18-karat gold construction of the case and dial, this time in white gold. Here, the dial is overlaid with light blue mother of pearl that has been colour matched to the ice blue, baguette-cut sapphires that decorate the bezel. In contrast with the refinement of the mother of pearl and gem setting, this variation is complete with a blue hybrid rubber strap.
The third and final timepiece in the Manero Minute Repeater Anniversary trilogy builds on the design of the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral Paradise that launched earlier this year. It features the same 18-carat rose gold case housing a full-spectrum bezel containing 40 baguette-cut gemstones including tsavorites, sapphires, and rubies for a stunning rainbow effect. These bold colours instantly pop on the black sunray dial, and the watch is complete with a black hybrid rubber strap.
While each unique design is visually striking in its own way, the models really shine beneath the surface. Powering all three watches is the brand’s CFB MR3000 caliber movement. Entirely designed, developed, and manufactured in-house, this movement took six years to perfect and was patented in 2021. It consists of 617 individual parts and is a COSC-certified chronometer, showcasing three peripherally mounted technologies.
The first is the automatic winding system, featuring a bi-directional oscillating, 18-carat gold weight. Then there’s the “floating” tourbillon cage, displayed at twelve o’clock, rather than the traditional six-o’clock position. Last but not least, there’s the peripherally mounted minute repeater regulator, which is displayed in all its glory at six o’clock with the hammers at the base and the circular gongs running around the inside edge of the case.
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