Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve Delivers Exquisite Winter Omakase
A luxurious deep winter feast, that makes you feel good body and soul
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It’s snow season in Hokkaido and as I nestle into a high-back leather armchair for an omakase meal at Sushi Nagi, I get the sense something great’s about to happen. On the pine counter in front of me glitter chopsticks hover on the black lacquer tray and behind me flashes of the elegant dining room can be seen through a slatted screen. With over twelve centimetres of perfect powder predicted overnight, there’s a hushed excitement in the dining room.
There are only ten places dotted along the narrow sushi counter, but we have all come here to observe chef Tsuneyoshi Taira’s process up close. Omakase is a great chance to slow down and relax, and let the chef decide what you will eat. The gentle ritualised atmosphere at the chef’s table is sedate and provides a welcome contrast to the flickering speed we’ve enjoyed all day on the mountain.
Strong notes of caramelised soy waft in my direction as the star of the show, warm up for the main act. A beautiful Japanese screen with floral motif – both pared back and minimal – is directly behind him. Staff, with impeccable training come and go around us like actors in a silent film.
Now the chef is taking tiny pieces of glistening raw fish from perfect ash coloured wooden boxes and slicing them with the precision of a surgeon. As the waiter tops my tulip shaped glass with French champagne — toasty and sweet on my lips — I feel a familiar wave of pleasure wash over me.
To my right a three metre high picture window shows the Mount Yotei tinged iridescent blue.
“Chef Tsuneyoshi Taira is no stranger to Ritz-Carlton; he previously worked with Ritz-Carlton in Okinawa, at Dorado Beach, anotherRitz-Carlton Reserve, and was part of our pre-opening team at Higashiyama,” says the perfectly manicured Yolanda Hu, General Manager of Ritz-Carlton Niseko.
Tonight’s hero dishes are the feather-light fluffy snowcrab sushi, fresh scallop that dissolves like fairyfloss on the tongues and an ethereal sea urchin – so floral and mineral – it touches the heart. The chawanmushi is another stand out dish. It arrives in blue and white china bowl resting on pedestal and the delicate custard is dotted with pieces of lightly poached crab, prawn, bonito and right at the bottom a few little mysterious ginkgo nuts. As we approach the end, the terrific soup course creates a luminous finale. It’s an exquisite black-tinged clam broth full of ethereal green herbs and lavender-coloured tinged clams. It’s deep, dark, and as perfumed as the sea.
To finish a perfect meal like this, in deep winter with such a well constructed broth – impeccably salty, sweet and rich in umami – makes one feel good all over.
For dessert it’s nice to see a familiar a black sesame mochi on the menu. it’s a cream dense smoke-flavoured ice cream that’s both sweet and nutty at the same time and makes a refreshing end to a meal you don’t want to finish.
Hokkaido is of course known as a food bowl of Japan. It is famous for its excellent dairy, sustainably farmed local Makkari pork, leatherwood honey, summer preserves made from local strawberries and apricots, and of course its abundance of incredible shellfish like crab, mussels, clams, and sea urchin. Sushi Nagi takes all of this and packages all of this up into one seamless Niseko experience.
Raw scallops turn up everywhere on the menu at this destination and they often share a plate with sweet, fresh, medium-sized prawns, and the unforgettable presence of crab, hairy, snow and king —all of the succulent, juicy and sweet.
Ritz-Carlton introduced the Omakase when it opened in 2020 and the Chef Tyson’s menu is has a starting price is 35,000 JPY approx $350 AUD.
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