Secret Cyclades
Bioclimatic design meets rustic charm on Folegandros.
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About 138 km from Tinos as the crow flies sits another nearly untouched Cycladic island, the tiny Folegandros, which draws roughly 50,000 visitors annually, compared to the more than two million who flock to nearby Santorini. Officially, it has a population of about 700. “Maybe counting the donkeys,” says our skeptical driver. Now it also has a new five-star resort, Gundari, meaning “rocky place”.
The first phase of 25 bioclimatically designed guest suites, each with a private solar-heated pool, rests atop a cliff overhanging the Aegean. The plushest have room-size showers fitted with twin showerheads. Gundari also has an infinity pool long enough for actual swimming. Two new private three- and four-bedroom villas recently opened, and Australian owner Ricardo Larriera tells Robb Report that phase two will be built into the cliff below, with a projected opening date of 2026. Lefteris Lazarou, Greece’s first chef to earn a Michelin star, is behind the restaurant, Orizon, which serves dishes such as pesto calamari, quinoa salad with prosciutto, and deconstructed lemon-meringue pie beneath the stars in a courtyard enclosed by high stone walls.
Moor your yacht in the harbour, helicopter in from another island or Athens, or book Gundari’s boat for a transfer. Once on Folegandros, explore it via the resort’s fleet of e-bikes, charter a vessel to go snorkelling (some of the best beaches aren’t reachable by car), visit the clifftop town—where the ancient fortress that defended against pirates still stands—or hike up the steep, zigzagging path to the church and satisfy your step count for the day.
The Athenian Art Boom
Feel free to ditch the sunbed: artistic talent awaits in the capital.
While Tinos has turned out more than its share of artists and is a favourite destination of many others, Athens remains Greece’s contemporary-art epicenter—and is increasingly capturing international attention.
One weekend this past June, Jeff Koons and Maurizio Cattelan joined a cadre of art-world denizens for the annual festivities of influential collector Dakis Joannou’s Deste Foundation. The city is also home to Dimitris Daskalopoulos, who in 2022 gifted 100 key works jointly to the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago and the Guggenheim in New York. The Dolli, the dripping-with-chic boutique hotel that bowed last year, even has a Calder mobile in the gym.
Mega gallery Gagosian opened in 2020, and this past May, Michael Werner Gallery made its Athenian debut in an elegant apartment steps from the Museum of Cycladic Art—which, in striking juxtaposition to its priceless antiquities, currently has a Cindy Sherman show on view. “Athens has something now, you just feel it,” says Werner partner Gordon VeneKlasen.
What may be most telling for art’s long-term prospects in the capital: emerging artists are moving there for the cheap rent, and project spaces have been popping up in grittier neighborhoods—typically a harbinger of a creative flowering.
Welsh artist Neal Rock bought a building to use for an artist residency and exhibitions. An inaugural group show opened in July. “It’s Athens, with this amazing history, the Acropolis,” says Rock, a self-described Grecophile. “It feels like a place where people are making work because they want to make work.”
Read Next: Our review of the Guerlain Day Spa at One & Only Aesthesis in Athens
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