
Connoisseur: A Brief History of Golf Style
From knickerbockers and knee-high-socks to present-day luxury-brand chic.
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The journey of golfing apparel in the last 60 years has been one largely shaped by the competing forces of tradition and innovation. Many will argue that the sport’s style zenith came with the rise to prominence of Arnold Palmer, cigarette in his mouth, invariably dressed in some tasteful combination of neatly tailored polo and slacks. It makes for a romantic ideal—few men or women to come after them have ever worn the look so naturally.
Leap forward to modern times, and today’s golf fan can point to a sport whose sartorial landscape has changed dramatically—one where cutting-edge sportswear brands compete for prominence with heritage labels, re-energised by an influx of new, style-minded players. All the while, a youthful undercurrent of forward-thinking start-ups are looking to redefine golfing style for a new generation.
Golf is, of course, a sport famously defined by dress codes—a mindset that dominated much of its early history. As golfers are so often wanton to do, players in the early 20th century clung stubbornly to ideals of a bygone era, with players like Bobby Jones cutting now-iconic silhouettes in the tailored coats, ties, knickerbockers and knee-high socks that were staples in Victorian times.

With the shift towards a more leisurely mindset in the post-war West came a pronounced change in how golfers dressed for a day in the links. The sport’s biggest names, Ben Hogan, and the aforementioned Palmer among them, shirked traditional conventions in favour of a neat, often playful style informed by a fondness for the era’s pastel hughes and relaxed, precise tailoring. Button-ups and ties made way for open-necked polos, knickers for pleated slacks.

As this shift was taking place, fashion designers began taking note of the game’s sartorial potential. As the stature of the sport’s biggest celebrities grew, so too did the value of their apparel as marketing real estate. A budding brand culture began to emerge as the ’60s bled into the flamboyant ’70s—Lyle & Scott argyle knits and Slazenger polo shirts becoming commonplace at professional events and public courses around the world. Collars grew bigger. Necklines, increasingly open. Pants, and hairstyles, louder and louder.
As titans like Seve and Norman brought this style into a golden era throughout the ’80s and early ’90s, a young man by the name of Eldrick “Tiger” Woods was preparing to descend upon the sporting world like a thunderbolt. The hard-swinging rookie, famed at the time as much for the colour of his skin as his domineering approach to gameplay, suddenly had everyone enraptured, drawing record attendances and becoming must-watch TV as he racked up win after win. Nike, riding high off the back of its illustrious partnership with Michael Jordan, saw the chance to pair Woods’ fearless style of play with a new type of on-course swagger, ushering in a seachange that would see apparel makers shift almost entirely away from classically minded tailoring and towards a sports-led mindset. Formerly heavyweight heritage brands faded from view as the sportswear giants began hoovering up top ten players with multimillion-dollar contracts.

It has occasionally been tough going as both players and brands have navigated this repositioning during the last 20 years. As golf-centric labels crashed clumsily into a market that brands like Nike and Adidas had spent years trying to make cool, golfwear drew near-universal derision as the peak of dadcore (before it was trendy)—a hodgepodge of loud prints and plasticky fabrics both too dated and too overly technical to have any kind of off-course appeal. Cardigans and ties clashed with jogger-style trousers as brands, in a desperate search to define the style of the era, made disastrous attempts at merging the old and new.
The late 2010s saw a pronounced swing in how the wider universes of sport and fashion came together to mingle, setting up a veritable feast for fashion-minded golfers in the years since. Upstart brands like LA’s Malbon Golf and London-based Manors have caught the eyes of both golf and fashion enthusiasts with their knack for re-imagining heritage silhouettes to fit the needs of modern players, while the likes of Metalwood Studio and Eastside Golf have brought a more streetwear-led mindset to the game, swapping traditional garb for heavyweight tees, camo hats and sneakers. Long-established, luxury-minded labels like Peter Millar and J.Lindeberg have also come into their own, combining cutting-edge fabrics with designs that fit golfers’ natural preferences towards the traditional.

It’s a mix that’s proven irresistible for other big names across the menswear spectrum. Teddy Santis’s Aimé Leon Dore and Ronnie Fieg’s Kith are but two era-defining casual brands to pivot towards creating golf collections, while celebrity-led labels like Macklemore’s surprisingly stylish Bogey Boys have invited collabs with the likes of Adidas, thanks to their flair for recreating the stylistic hallmarks of ’70s golfwear. Even those in the upper echelons of high fashion have taken note—one of the late Virgil Abloh’s first Nike collaborations was on a golf shoe, while Louis Vuitton and Ralph Lauren both boast a roaring trade in golf-adjacent apparel and accessories.

The great Sam Snead, himself one of the foremost golfing sartorialists of his day, once said: “Nobody asked how you looked, just what you shot.” But without the luxury of being able to swing a club like he did, we think it’s prudent to strive for excellence in both.
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