
Something in the Air
Every ultra-luxe brand worth its backstory is dabbling with olfactory branding.
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In 2012, ambitious Swedish geologist Peter Bergman sought investors for his fledgling company OreDog. Bergman claimed he could train German shepherds to sniff out gold deposits up to 12 m underground, revolutionising prospecting. “I would predict that people who invest in our company now will be very rich,” he said. One problem: gold may be history’s most enduring symbol of wealth, but it has no smell.
Luxury, on the other hand, does. And while it’s precise fragrance may be hard to define, in our own way, each of us intuitively understands what high-end smells like, just as we know its weight on our wrist, its feel against our skin, or how it delights the eye. The biscuit and green-strawberry notes of a layered Tasmanian pinot noir. The salty cedar and citrus adagio of an Amalfi afternoon. The smoky baroque of NYC’s storied Gramercy Park Hotel. The zestily refined redolence of Singapore’s remodelled Raffles .
Luxury is a visceral experience, and science tells us that no other sense connects so immediately, or so uninhibitedly, to our amygdala and hippocampus—the brain’s emotional and memory centres—like scent. It follows on, then, that the world’s finest brands insist their associated spaces provide the right olfactory aura. Indeed, for many of the world’s best perfumers, or “noses”, “scent branding” is a full-time job.
Past clients of French parfumier Annabelle Coffinet include Gucci, Montblanc and Rochas. And yet she has spent the past two years developing an “immersive fragrance concept”, Rolls-Royce Scent, for the inestimable automaker. Launched in February, it is specifically crafted for the marque’s magnificent, million-dollar saloon, the Phantom. “I have two decades of experience working for renowned luxury fragrance houses,” she says. “I was intrigued to explore new dimensions of scent application.”
During her research, Coffinet spent countless hours considering how a Rolls-Royce occupant engages with their space—both physically and mentally—and eventually decided the fragrance should “evoke the feeling of serenity”. “To match the resilience and calmness you experience when you ride in a Phantom,” she adds, “evoking the sensation of a magic carpet ride.” The olfactory equivalent of Rolls-Royce’s “flight on land” suspension.
While model-specific, ultra-high-end automotive scent branding is a new concept, it’s the logical extension of decades of increasingly sophisticated marketing by smell. The Phantom delivers its scent via a specially developed, and now patented, diffuser. It is light years ahead of an earlier technological development that opened the door to olfactory branding—and placed it in the environment where it arguably remains most polished: the world’s finest hotels.
AromaSys Inc., and American company, first marketed its “fragrance-dispensing machines” in 1992. They weren’t cheap, particularly for an entirely new variety of product. An early hotel-scale commercial diffuser cost up to US$15,000 (US$34,000 today, or around $53,000). It was innovators such as visionary Gramercy Park developer, Ian Schrager, the one-time Studio 54 impresario and co-creator of the boutique hotel concept, who were the earliest of adopters. Schrager tapped a then-struggling NYC perfumery start-up Le Labo to create the soon-to-be iconic scent for his zeitgeist-grabbing hotel. In Paris’ 1st arrondissement, the smoky, sexy Fashion Week staple Hôtel Costes was already on a similar path, in collaboration with famed perfumer Diptyque. It would inspire a generation.
“The scent that filled the corridors of Hôtel Costes became part of its mystique,” says world-renowned perfumer Johanna Monange, the Singapore-based former global creative director for L’Oréal’s fine fragrance division, whose personal portfolio includes La Vie est Belle, Acqua di Gioia and YSL’s L’Homme trilogy. “It was intimate, provocative, comforting, sensual… people would walk in and feel enveloped in something they couldn’t quite name—but they never forgot.”
Olfactory branding became a thing. And not just the preserve of the luxury cosmos. From the maximal preppie whiff that once announced an Abercrombie & Fitch location well ahead of its shirtless greeters, to the unmistakable aromatic cudgel of every Subway store, scent has expanded into a legion of different corporate identities. Since 2018, Apple has added a signature mint-and-apple-noted scent developed by master perfumer Christophe Laudamiel to the HVAC systems in its stores. Nike’s signature scent is claimed to be inspired, in part, by the smell of a rubber basketball sneaker. Singapore Airlines infuses its brand smell into its hot towels.
As ultra-luxe scent branding pioneered the artform, though, so has it continued to lead the way. And, in doing so, it has armed those noses at the cutting edge of the genre with a deep understanding of the evolution of modern luxury. Before founding Australian luxury fragrance brand The Raconteur, Craig Andrade says he asked himself one question: does the world need another candle, or eau de parfum for that matter? “Generally,” he says, “the answer is no—unless you’re making something truly unique that doesn’t already exist.”
Scent branding offers creative challenges like few other arenas in the fragrance world. And so, in keeping with luxury’s long, welcome road away from conspicuous consumption, Andrade has been deeply invested in place, narrative and genuine connection. His clients have included Paspaley pearls, Sydney restaurants Otto, Quay and Bennelong, and Lord Howe Island’s boutique castaway hotel Capella Lodge. “I think we’ve moved on,” Andrade says. “I think that ultimately, the scent of luxury [now] goes to this question of subtle communication: how to invite curiosity, how to create a moment of reflection in time.”
For Paspaley, Andrade spent time on the rugged terrain of the Kimberley coast with pearl farmers, emerging with a unique botanical called Kimberley Heath. For Capella, he painstakingly recreated local botanicals that World Heritage laws dictated he could not remove. Authenticity is key. “I think when it’s loud, when it’s dominant, or when it’s overwhelming, I don’t think that’s the volume that luxury speaks at,” he says. “I think it speaks quietly. I think luxury speaks with a subtle tone and invites you to observe, and to engage at your paste.”
Johanna Monange agrees. Her company, Maison 21G, has worked with everyone from lavish resorts in the vein of AlUla in Saudi Arabia to halo brands such as Ferrari and Hennessy, and elite spaces like Singapore’s La Reserve—but more on that in a moment.
“Ultra-luxury,” says Monange, “is not about selling a sandwich. It’s about building an atmosphere of refinement, trust, memory and desire.” Modern opulence, the world’s finest noses imply, has evolved to be a narrative one is invited to explore, rather than something to be imposed. “What I love about luxury brands is that there is always a history; there are deep values that we can translate,” continues Monange. “When I worked with [the] Williams [Formula 1 team], we leaned into energy and innovation. When we created the scent for Raffles Sentosa, it was about grace, legacy and luxury.”
Which leaves La Reserve. A fragrance collaboration that, arguably, took abstract premium branding to its zenith. Billing itself as a “systemic wealth protection facility”, La Reserve is a mega-capacity vault—a private members’ Asian Fort Knox—storing palettes of bullion for the world’s 0.01 percent beneath towering, reinforced 30 m ceilings.
“It’s one of the biggest reserves of gold, and it’s just beautiful,” says Monange. “A lot of wealthy people have gold, as you know, so they wanted to create a lounge around it: you come, you bring your gold, and you can have an indulgent experience.” And so, Monange was asked to create the scent… for a metal without a scent.
“Everybody loves it,” says Monange. “They don’t say, oh, it’s the smell of gold. It’s just the smell of luxury. At the end, that is how I translated it. And they were so passionate: even in the bathroom, they insisted that the hand soap should smell like gold. It was a perfect project.”
The smell of gold, you say? Peter Bergman’s German shepherd would like a word.
Photograph: Courtesy Rolls-Royce.
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