
Spring into Life
The magical pools of Japan’s Niseko ski resort are the perfect tonic for post-piste fatigue. And did we mention the world-class spa.
After battle, it was common for samurai, Japan’s aristocratic warriors of yore, to heal their wounds in an onsen—a natural hot spring bath heated geothermically by volcanic activity underground. And after two days of skiing, it’s easy to see why.
A holiday in the onsen mecca of Niseko, located in the east of Japan’s northernmost island Hokkaido, is one of extreme contrasts. One minute you’re on the frozen slopes covered in enough black Gore-Tex to suffocate a sumo, the next, plunging your naked body into parching water. Here, deep in Japan’s snow country, booking a spa treatment is inexorably linked to the ancient bathing ritual—the two being as intwined as raw fish and rice.
At Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, the Spa Chasi La Sothys day retreat is set up for guests to deepen their connection to nature. The interior adopts a soothing, minimal and monochrome scheme but the outdoor onsen,nestled in a manicured Japanese garden with direct views of Mount Yōtei, is the real headline act. If you visit just before sunrise, the inky al fresco pool emits a ghostly white vapour. Sinking down into the 43-degree water, the contrast between the icy air and the hot water delivers an invigorating jolt. For this Australian, it sure beats fighting for space on a packed beach in February.

Amid kilometres of groomed trails and off-piste mogul runs, there are more than a dozen local pools that form the Niseko Onsenkyo—not surprising since the region is a hotbed of subterranean volcanic action. And each onsen has its own temple-like vibe designed to strip the act of bathing back to basics. Even preparing to take a dip—sitting on a tiny stool sluicing water over your naked body—has the impact of making you feel contentedly child-like. Once immersed in the mineral-rich spring, all thoughts are effectively extinguished.

As well as the onsen, I opt for the Sothys Athletics massage. It’s the perfect antidote to the bumps and falls experienced during a few days on the slopes, as the therapist’s long, stretching motions act as a salve for battered muscles. I’m still recovering from a slight bout of jet lag but the treatment has the effect of stimulating the skin, toning it to a plump, fruit-like finish. I emerge smelling of citrusy vetiver and lemon sherbets—like a botanist and French perfumer have combined forces.
I gently shake myself from a fog of relaxation and re-enter the white-out of a snow-covered terrace to plunge my body back into the onsen. Like the samurai of yesteryear, I’m healed and ready to go back into battle.
For more information on Spa Chasi La Sothys at Higashiyama Niseko Village, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve, go to ritzcarlton.com
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