How Jean-Claude Biver’s Eponymous Watch Brand Is Navigating a Challenging Market

After five decades as an industry bigwig, JCB’s biggest challenge yet has been opening an independent family atelier in a farmhouse outside Geneva.

By Thor Svaboe 16/06/2025

Starting from scratch with two watchmakers and an artisan specialising in movement finishing is testing for anyone, and the sky-high expectations that come with Jean-Claude Biver’s name only dialled up the risk factor. Debuting in a declining 2023 market, the $550,000 Biver Carillon Tourbillon was a bold move, but has the audacious debut paid off? I visited Jean-Claude’s growing namesake family company, Biver, where Pierre Biver is creative director and Filipe Biver is responsible for the Asian market, to find out how the company is faring in a challenging market.

 

Jean-Claude Biver in the Biver Atelier

We’re not out of the post-pandemic market reset yet, but Jean-Claude Biver’s eponymous brand has experienced growth and considerable up-staffing. James Marks was headhunted from Phillips as CEO in October 2024, and Nolan Buchi has taken the role of marketing director after previously working as a consultant for the brand. Marks mentored Pierre Biver at Phillips, underlining the Biver family’s love of vintage timepieces. Alongside his father, 25-year-old Pierre brings youthful insight and a sharp eye for design as co-founder and plays a key role in the brand’s focused direction.

But let us first address the horological elephant in the atelier. The Carillon Tourbillon was not met with universal praise and thunderous applause—some felt it was too much, too soon. I loved the bracelet with its intense detailing and complex design on its own merit. Likewise, the 42 mm case had a natural sense of balance with lugs to die for. But the triple threat of stone dial drama, a tourbillon, and a minute repeater made it appear overpowering. However, my initial impression changed with the pared-back Automatique and wearing the intricate Carillon Tourbillon in Givrins, where the Biver atelier is located in Switzerland, was eye-opening. With two monochrome takes on intricate guilloché work the new dial designs come across as more restrained, even with baguette-cut indices. And just like the 39 mm Automatique, the ergonomics are mature and well-measured for such a young brand.

A larger-than-life doyen of Swiss watchmaking, Jean-Claude Biver made a name for himself in the industry for his irrefutable business acumen and larger-than-life personality. But does his corporate business savvy translate to independent, small-scale watchmaking? The Biver atelier is in a converted farmhouse about 50 minutes north-east of Geneva, and over a second helping of croissants, I asked the former head of watches and jewellery at LVMH if the first two years had met his expectations.

“I would say, yes. Thank God,” says Biver. “It would be dramatic to say no, but it could have happened. Nevertheless, there were a few unexpected elements, and unlike being a boss surrounded by people, suddenly I had nobody around me. I was alone”. His answers often incite him to pound his fist on the meeting table, interspersed with loud exclamations. He doesn’t hold back and he often reveals an unrelenting and deeply personal focus.

 

Biver Carillon Tourbillon Minute Repeater in platinum. Thor Svaboe

 

After decades of working with large corporate teams and personal assistants, he works only with his two sons. “We were together, but we were two debutants starting a new adventure, which was very special,” says Biver of himself and his son Pierre, who founded the company with him in Switzerland. “I also realised the importance of the unmentioned people (in a larger corporate team). They might do a job that is not always valued, but if these people leave you, you are naked.” His technical director, François Perez, is one of those key members and his fervent enthusiasm nearly matches that of his boss.

Still, there were other surprises in store for Biver with the launch of the family business, including a learning curve on what clients would be willing to pay. “I had expected more attraction from the Carillon, but I underestimated the importance of price,” he says. “At half a million Swiss Francs, it was an expensive debut, and customers told me that we were close to their pain threshold, even if our finishing was extraordinary. And we felt it in slow initial sales. On the contrary, interest in the three-handed Automatique (launched September 2024) was unexpectedly high. So, while I felt slightly disappointed, I could see it turning into an incredible success.”

 

Biver Automatique in platinum. Biver

Biver also knows his unshakeable reputation comes from big brands, not crafting bespoke timepieces. “I had a little bit of goodwill because of my name, which helped us overcome the market challenge, and the Biver brand name meant something,” he says. The elevated position of a brand with watches above $500,000 needs to be deserved, a point which is not lost on Biver. “Our duty is not to offer perfection, or to produce the best quality,” he says. “It is much more, because we must master all the parts that nobody can see. And by mastering this invisibility, that will set us apart.”

 

This focus on the unseen details is a valid reason for a high markup. At $80,000, the Automatique offered these thoughtful nuances at a more palatable price. Taking a loupe to a detail like the soldered, angular lugs, it all becomes clear. Their dramatic shape is engineered for durability despite their soft gold structure, with lug holes meticulously fitted with strong titanium inner sleeves for strength and versatility. “It’s normal to have elaborate finishing on what you can see, but we polish the heads of our screws that are unseen inside the movement,” says Biver. “For me, the invisibility that we master means we come close to eternal perfection, because a perfect movement will still work after 500 years.”

Biver Carillon Tourbillon in Rose Gold. Biver

 

Under the technical guidance of Perez, the number of watchmakers and finishers has also grown considerably in this short space of time. “People came to me because of my reputation and because word spread about our quality, and this crazy guy who says that invisibility is his speciality,” says Biver. The draw of small-scale independent ateliers is clear, as skilled watchmakers find more variation, instead of being relegated to more repetitive tasks. At the Biver manufacture, watchmakers are often working on multiple steps of the process and have ownership of the complete assembly of a single watch. “I believe each one could be mentioned as one of the best, devoted watchmakers I have ever employed,” says Biver. “They get to follow one watch, doing what they were trained to do, and are in synchrony with their job. I’m amazed by the quality of my people. This is something that I never expected to have come so easily and, at our level, people are the key. People are the key to everything.”

 

He admits, however, his biggest challenge is to stay grounded. “When independent people, including myself, receive compliments and too much success, we forget that the boss will always be the product,” says Biver. “So, the biggest threat is forgetting to be humble.” And while I wouldn’t call the 39 mm Biver Automatique a humble design, it speaks a subtler horological language than the flamboyance of the Carillon. The Automatique entered the stage in September last year, including two Atelier stone dial versions. The Pietersite iteration was like a thunderstorm framed in rose gold but the design was still restrained, with immaculate details like the multi-faceted indexes. Not surprisingly, being very close to his father, a well-known Patek collector, vintage aesthetics inspire Pierre Biver. And judging by the smile of his technical director Perez when I bring it up, Japanese horology has also been an inspiration to the team.

 

Biver Automatique Atelier Series Pietersite in rose gold. Biver

 

 

Considering the retro twist of soldered lugs that match the aggressive indexes for drama, the design is contemporary. Wearing the Automatique with its angled lugs, the mature ergonomics struck me, and the platinum monochrome version epitomises stealth wealth. And despite my predisposition for smaller case sizes, the same applies to the Carillon Tourbillon. Especially the two 42 mm grade 5 titanium versions, featuring guilloché-engraved inner dials in Obsidian or a clean silver-white Mother-of-Pearl.

 

Biver Carillon Tourbillon Deep Blue in white gold and sapphires. Biver

 

The details are perfected, but unlike some brands at this level, not clinically. The passion is felt through each index, and I’m even drawn to the high drama of the $1.5 million extravagance of the Deep Blue—the least understated of all Biver’s creations. An overpowering number of sapphires encircle a hypnotic hyperspace-inspired white gold guilloché dial. These are set in two rows, echoed in the full gem-set bezel. And just like the fan-shaped guilloché pattern of the titanium Carillon, each sapphire has a familiar wedge-shaped form, a trademark Biver cut.

 

With today’s rising interest in the brand, production is limited by the size of Biver’s atelier and, I wouldn’t be surprised to see further expansion or even a move to larger premises to cope with demand. Biver has strong feelings (cue fist on table) on waiting lists and production times. “We should be focused on the customer,” he says. “You are making a great watch, but you are not the king. The customer is the king. We might tend to become arrogant, but if a watch cannot be delivered within a year or two, say so and be sorry that you cannot deliver the watch earlier. But you can’t tell a customer they can’t buy the watch for eight years, see what I mean?”

 

 

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Omega Just Unveiled 9 Watches in Its New Constellation Observatory Collection

The line-up shows up a bevy of metals and colours, too, as well as two new calibres.

By Nicole Hoey 31/03/2026

Omega’s latest watch is in a universe of its own.

The Swiss watchmaker just unveiled its new Constellation Observatory Collection today, the next step in its Constellation lineage and the first two-hand hour and minute timepieces to ever earn Master Chronometer certification. And if you were paying attention to any of the dazzling watches spotted at the Oscars this year, you would’ve caught a glimpse of the new line already: Sinners star Delroy Lindo rocked one of the models on the Academy Awards red carpet, giving us a pre-release preview of the collection.

Developed at Omega’s new Laboratoire de Précision (its chronometer testing lab open to all brands), the collection houses a set of nine 39.4 mm watches. The watches underwent 25 days of scrutiny there, analysed via a new acoustic testing method that recorded every sound emitted from the timepiece to track irregularities, temperature sensitivities, and more in the name of all things precision. (Details such as water resistance and power reserve are also thoroughly examined.) This meticulous process is all in the name of snagging that Master Chronometer label, meaning that the timepiece is highly accurate and surpasses the threshold for ultra-high performance. The Constellation Observatory Collection has now changed the game, though, thanks to its lack of a seconds hand.

A watch from the Constellation Observatory Collection, with the Observatory dome on display. Omega

“Until now, precision certification has required a seconds hand,” Raynald Aeschlimann, president and CEO of OMEGA, said in a press statement. “The development of a new acoustic testing methodology has made that requirement obsolete. It is this breakthrough that has enabled us to present the Constellation Observatory, the first two-hand watch to achieve Master Chronometer certification.”

In addition to notching its place in history, the collection also debuted a new pair of movements: the Calibre 8915 and the Calibre 8914, each perched on a skeletonised rotor base. The former’s Grand Luxe iteration will appear on the 950 Platinum-Gold model in the collection, which offers up that base in 18-karat Sedna Gold alongside a Constellation medallion in 18-karat white gold with an Observatory dome done in white opal enamel surrounded by stars. The second Calibre 8915, the Luxe, will find its home on the other precious-metal models in the line, either made with the brand’s 18-karat Sedna, Moonshine, or Canopus gold seen across the case, the hand-guilloché dial, and, of course, the movement itself. (Lindo chose to rock the Moonshine Gold on Moonshine Gold iteration, priced at approximately $86,000, for Sinners‘s big night at the Oscars.) As for the Calibre 8914, it can be found in the collection’s four steel models.

 

Omega Constellation Observatory Collection
A look at a gold case-back from the collection. Omega

Each model is a callback to myriad design features on past Omega models. That two-hand dial, for one, comes from the 1948 Centenary (the brand’s first chronometer-certified automatic wristwatch), while the pie-pan dial (seen in various blue, green, and golden hues throughout the line) and that Constellation medallion caseback both appear on watches from 1952. The star adorning the space above 6 o’clock also harks back to 1950s timepieces from Omega. And to finish off the look, you can opt for alligator straps in a variety of colours, or perhaps a gold iteration to match the precious-metal models; the brick-like pattern on the 18-karat Moonshine bracelet was also inspired by Omega watches from the ’50s.

We’ll have to keep our eyes peeled for any other Constellation Observatory timepieces (or any other unreleased models from the brand) at the rest of the star-studded events headed our way this year—perhaps the Met Gala?

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Inside Loro Piana’s First Sydney Boutique

A first Australian address brings the Italian house’s textile-led approach to retail full circle.

By Horacio Silva 26/03/2026

On the fourth floor of Westfield Sydney, near the Castlereagh and Market Street entrance—in the space formerly occupied by Chanel—Loro Piana has opened its first Australian boutique. It is a significant address change for that corner of the mall, and a meaningful one for the Italian house, which has sourced Australian merino wool for decades but until now had no retail presence here.

The facade is understated—creamy, tactile, more about texture than theatre. Inside, the store unfolds across a single, expansive level divided into distinct men’s and women’s wings. The separation is clear without being heavy-handed: womenswear leads from soft accessories and leather goods into ready-to-wear, while menswear occupies its own assured territory, with tailoring and outerwear given proper breathing room. Footwear (supple loafers, luxurious slides, pared-back sneakers) is particularly strong, and the sunglasses are a quiet standout: mineral-toned frames with a disciplined elegance that feels entirely of the house.

That same restraint carries into the interiors, where the surfaces do much of the talking. Walls are wrapped in the company’s own linen and cashmere; carpets are custom, dense underfoot, softening the acoustics and the pace. Oak and carabottino wood add warmth without fuss; marble accents introduce a cool counterpoint. The effect is a composed space calibrated around material, proportion and restraint.

The Spring 2026 collection now in store underscores that sensibility. Silhouettes are elongated and fluid; cashmere, silk and featherweight merino move in sandy neutrals, creams and muddied earth tones, with flashes of marigold and pale turquoise breaking the calm. Tailoring is softly structured and projects confidence without aggression. Leather goods arrive in buttery skins that feel almost pre-lived, as though time has already worked its magic.

What distinguishes Loro Piana, particularly in a market that has grown noisier by the season, is its refusal to perform luxury in an obvious register. There are no oversized insignias telegraphing allegiance. Instead, the status is encoded in fibre count, in hand-feel, in how a coat hangs from the shoulder. It assumes the wearer knows and, crucially, does not need to announce it.

Sydney’s luxury landscape has matured in recent years; global houses no longer test the waters but commit to them. Yet Loro Piana’s arrival feels different. It is not trend-driven expansion but material logic. For a country whose sheep stations have long contributed to the house’s fabric story, this boutique reads almost as a thank-you note written in cashmere.

 

Photography: Courtesy of Loro Piana.

 

 

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This Stylish, Water-Resistant Dopp Kit Might Be the Last One You Ever Buy

Patricks’s limited-edition wash bag is designed to keep liquids in and out, so it can come along wherever your travels take you.

By Justin Fenner 11/03/2026

If all you’re going to do is look at it, a leather Dopp kit from a fashion house is a fine choice. But if you take travelling seriously—and do it often, for business, pleasure, or both—such a bag will inevitably end up blemished with droplets of water or stained by errant flecks of toothpaste. Get stuck with a cavalier team of baggage handlers, and it can even get soaked in your favourite fragrance or anti-ageing serum.

But Patricks, the high-performance Australian grooming brand stocked in Harrods and Bergdorf Goodman, has a solution. Its limited-edition bathroom bag, called BB1, is purpose-built to protect everything inside and out. Conceived by industrial designer George Cunningham with brand founder Patrick Kidd, the cuboid design is executed in a water-resistant recycled nylon you can rinse clean. It’s lined with a thin layer of shock-absorbing foam to safeguard your products, but if a bottle somehow gets cracked in transit, the two-way water-resistant zippers and sealed seams (which keep liquids from seeping in or out) ensure that whatever leaks won’t ruin your cashmere. Inside, two dual-sided zippered compartments are ideally sized to fit toothbrushes, razors, and other small essentials.

And though its clean lines and rugged construction make it undeniably masculine, its greatest feature is borrowed from women’s makeup bags. Like the best of these, BB1 unzips to lie flat, giving you unobstructed access to everything inside. Well, you and the 999 other gentlemen who move fast enough to snag one. $289

Courtesy of Patricks

1. Hanging Loop 

The G-hook system isn’t just a stylish handle: You can also use it to hang the bag from a hook or secure it to your carry-on.

2. Two-Way Zipper

The closures are water-resistant in both directions, meaning liquids won’t get in or out.

3. Fold-flat Construction

BB1 opens to 180 degrees, letting you scan its 4.2-litre capacity at a quick glance.

4. Technical-Fabric Shell

The durable recycled-nylon is easy to maintain and woven to survive splashes and leaks from your go-to products.

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You Can Now Place Bets on the Future Prices of Rolex Models

And which models will get discontinued next, thanks to a new collaboration between Kalshi and Bezel.

By Nicole Hoey 11/03/2026

You can bet on pretty much anything these days, from when Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce will get married to who will be the next James Bond—and now that includes the Rollies on your wrist, or on your wishlist.

Prediction market platform Kalshi, regulated in the U.S., and luxe watch marketplace Bezel have teamed up on a new platform called Watch Futures that allows users to splash down cash on where they think the prices of a particular luxe timepiece are going, whether that’s a Rolex Submariner or a coveted Patek Philippe, Time & Tide reported.

You can also place a wager on which models might be discontinued, as well as any future launches from the top watchmakers on the new platform; with Watches and Wonders coming up, it’s certainly a well-timed launch that could see a lot of activity as a slew of new releases are announced at the event.

Watch Futures is all based on Beztimate, Bezel’s system (once used only internally) to help it accurately calculate the market price of a timepiece. It draws data from real-time transactions, live bids, verified sales, and other market offers to spawn its own series of independent valuation models to establish a watch’s value. From there, it’s up to bettors to place their wagers, and then the platform will showcase any price fluctuations or other updates as time goes on.

This new platform could have some pretty large implications for the watch industry.  As any horological savant would know, the internet and collectors alike are constantly chattering about which models are on the way out or when a certain timepiece of the moment’s time in the limelight will fade, of course, having a large impact on the prices of said model. And now, a Watch Futures user can have a direct stake in where a model is headed—and if they own said timepiece, it can be a protection from dwindling values on the marketplace, say, if a user places a bet on their model losing value and that actually comes to fruition.

To see Watch Futures in real time (and scope out how some pieces in your collection are faring), you can use the Kalshi app or its website.

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Mauve on Up

Brisbane boutique stay Miss Midgley’s offers a viscerally human experience—especially if you dig pink.

By Horacio Silva 17/12/2025

On a sun-bleached corner of Brisbane’s New Farm, where the scent of frangipani mingles with the clink of coffee cups, stands a building that has lived more lives than most people. Once a premier’s residence, an orphanage, a hospital and a private school, the 160-year-old stone structure now finds itself reborn as Miss Midgley’s—a boutique stay that teaches a masterclass in how to make heritage feel modern.

Designed and run by architect-mother-daughter duo Lisa and Isabella White, Miss Midgley’s captures the cultural confidence of a city in bloom. Nowhere is that new confidence more visible than along James Street—the leafy, slow-burn heart of the city’s fashion and dining scene—where Miss Midgley’s sits quietly at the edge, its shell-pink façade glowing in the subtropical light.

Built of Brisbane’s rare volcanic tuff, the building’s soft mauves and pinks are more than aesthetic; they are its identity. Locals still remember its 1950s incarnation as the Pink Flats, and the Whites have honoured that legacy with a contemporary blush-toned exterior, chosen to harmonise with the stone’s peachy undertones. Inside, those hues continue in dusty terracottas, russets and the faint shimmer of brass tapware. “Design can’t afford to be for the sake of fashion,” Isabella White has said. “It has to respond to what’s in front of you.”

That sentiment is tangible in every corner. Five apartments, each with their own idiosyncratic floor plan, occupy the building. Ceilings bloom with heritage plasterwork, 19th-century wallpaper fragments have been preserved in the kitchens, and tiny hand-painted notes left by the architects point out original quirks: a misaligned beam here, a hidden archway there. It’s a kind of adult treasure hunt for design lovers, where discovery feels personal and unforced.

Even the picket fence, a heritage requirement, has been reimagined in corten steel—a sly nod to regulation turned into sculpture. It’s this blend of reverence and rebellion that gives Miss Midgley’s its edge: heritage without starch, nostalgia without sentimentality.

True to Brisbane’s easy elegance, luxury here is measured not in marble or minibar but in proportion, privacy, and personality. Each apartment—from the Drawing Room and the Assembly Hall to the Principal’s Office—is a self-contained sanctuary with its own kitchen, large bathroom and outdoor space. The ground-floor units open onto leafy courtyards and welcome small dogs; upstairs, the larger suites spill onto verandahs shaded by jacarandas.

At the heart of the property lies a solar-heated pool hemmed with tropical greenery and fringed umbrellas—more mid-century Palm Springs than colonial Brisbane. Around it, guests share a petite laundry, a communal library and that rarest of urban luxuries: a car park per apartment. The atmosphere is quietly collegiate—a handful of travellers who might nod to each other on the stairs but otherwise inhabit their own creative bubbles.

The hotel’s namesake, Annie Midgley, lends the project both its name and its spirit. An ambidextrous artist and teacher, she famously instructed two students at once, writing with both hands simultaneously—a fitting metaphor for the dual vision the Whites bring to the building: one hand rooted in history, the other sketching toward the future. “Not famous, yet known,” goes the property’s understated tagline—and indeed, Miss Midgley’s has quietly become that most desirable of addresses: the one whispered about by people who know.

Sustainability isn’t an accessory here; it’s structural. The adaptive reuse of the heritage building is its boldest environmental act. Solar panels power the property; an electric heat pump warms the pool; recycled decking and tiles frame the courtyard. The metre-thick tuff walls regulate temperature naturally, and the amenities follow suit—refillable bath products, biodegradable pods, Seljak blankets spun from textile off-cuts, and compendiums wrapped in Australian-made kangaroo leather. It’s slow luxury in the truest sense.

In a world of carbon-copy hotels, Miss Midgley’s feels deeply human—a place where history isn’t curated behind glass but lives in the warmth of stone and the flicker of afternoon light. The lesson it offers is simple and resonant: that the most elegant modernity often comes not from reinvention, but from listening to what’s already there.

 

 Miss Midgley’s

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