Audemars Piguet Gives The People What They Didn’t Ask For

A quintet of new Royal Oak Offshores — and not a 42mm stainless steel model in sight.

By Tanisha Angel 05/07/2023

While most watch collectors would be content with Audemars Piguet upping the production of their un-bedazzled stainless steel time-and-date Royal Oaks, the Swiss manufacture has—naturally—opted to give the people what they didn’t know they wanted.

The manufacture has expanded its Royal Oak Offshore line with a new Music Edition and four chronographs, each in 37mm case sizes.

The Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition is crafted from black ceramic and continues Audemars Piguet’s ode to music. Doing away with the date function, the timepiece takes on an understated aesthetic; save for the vibrant equaliser motif featuring on the black tapisserie dial. Building off the collection launched last year, the black ceramic construction lends the timepiece a sportier, more contemporary aesthetic than its siblings. Key details include titanium accents in the form of knurled studs, fader-inspired crown guards, and the pin buckle on the black rubber strap. Equipped with the calibre 5909, it promises a 60-hour power reserve in a slimmer form than its predecessor. The hand-finished detail is visible through the exhibition caseback, which is engraved with the words ‘Limited Edition of 250 Pieces’.

Catering for smaller wrists, albeit in a very gem-set manner, the Swiss manufacture continues to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore with four new chronographs. The 37mm newcomers feature bezels adorned with diamonds and coloured gemstones, executed in pink gold, yellow gold, and stainless steel. The quartet emulate the design aesthetic presented in 2021 on the 43mm chronographs. The dial houses a new ‘Lady Tapisserie’ motif (read: the truncated pyramids are marginally chunkier than on previous versions) and does away with the snailed zone previously found on 37mm models. Additionally, the usual ‘Audemars Piguet’ signature is foregone in favour of a redesigned AP monogram.

The two diamond set pieces come in stainless steel or rose gold; the former paired with a salmon dial and fitted with a light grey rubber strap while the latter sees a baby blue dial teamed with a beige rubber strap. Both diamond iterations feature a pin buckle.

Meanwhile, the baguette-cut coloured gemstone iterations are available in pink and yellow gold with a black and dark blue dial, respectively. The yellow gold version features a graduation of yellow, green, and gold, executed by pairing tsavorites with yellow and blue sapphires, while the rose gold timepiece employs rubies, tsavorites, tanzanites, amethysts, and sapphires to create a striking rainbow effect. Each version is presented on a rubber strap colour-matched with the dial that features an AP folding clasp.

The quartet of chronographs is powered by the calibre 2385 which includes small seconds, chronograph, and date functions and has a 40-hour power reserve.

$POA; audemarspiguet.com

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Rafael Nadal and Richard Mille Just Dropped Another Watch Collab. Here’s Every One They’ve Made Together.

The duo has launched 11 models in less than 15 years, including the brand new RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon.

By Cait Bazemore 30/05/2024

Rafael Nadal really needs no introduction. He’s arguably one of the best tennis players of all time, notching 22 Grand Slam men’s singles titles, including a record 14 French Open titles. Thanks to 81 consecutive wins on clay (the longest single-surface win streak in the Open Era), he’s more than earned his unofficial title as the King of Clay. His first major title came in 2005, and for more than 15 years, he never slowed down, clenching yet another French Open win in 2022. However, the tides turned for the star player last year when injury knocked him out of the second round of the Australian Open at the start of the 2023 season. As a result, he exited the Top 10 for the first time since 2005 and later declined to enter the French Open. After a year of recovery, the beloved Spanish player announced his triumphant return to the ATP tour at the end of 2023. However, after withdrawing from the season’s first major, the Australian Open, and losing in the first round at the French Open to Alexander Zverev, it looks like it may be Nadal’s final season before retirement.

Watches and tennis have long gone hand in hand ever since Rolex became the official timekeeper of Wimbledon back in 1978. Since then, countless players have landed partnerships with watchmakers or served as brand ambassadors. If you look closely, you’ll often notice one of the first things that players do upon exiting the court is strap on their favorite timepiece. But Nadal is one of the few pros who actually wears his watch during the match. Most timekeepers aren’t fit to withstand the force of a tennis swing, but Nadal teamed up with one of the few brands able to deliver a truly performance-driven timepiece that’s up for the challenge, Richard Mille. The duo has been developing watches together since 2010, resulting in 11 exceptional models including their latest collaboration, the RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon, which just dropped over Memorial Day weekend. Here, we take a deeper look at the evolution of Nadal and Richard Mille’s partnership and the wild watches they’ve created.

Richard Mille

Richard Mille

Richard Mille created its debut model for Nadal in 2010 with the RM 027. This tourbillon thoughtfully optimizes both form and function for the court. It features a carbon composite case and flexible polycarbonate strap, keeping it ultra-lightweight. However, the real genius comes in the design of the movement, which is made of titanium and a unique alloy called LITAL. The combination of materials from the inside out results in a timepiece weighing less than 20 grams, including the strap, making it the lightest watch ever produced at the time.

Richard Mille

A year later, the duo switched things up with the launch of the RM 035. While the model lacks the tourbillon functionality, it’s anything but a simple timepiece. The initial RM 035 features a skeletonized dial with a similar lightweight build, this time thanks to a magnesium and aluminum alloy. In addition, it marked the first Richard Mille Chronofiable-certified timepiece, representing a new milestone in the quest for long-lasting performance under extreme conditions.

Richard Mille

We wouldn’t see the next collaboration for another two years. In 2013, the pair unveiled the second generation of the RM 027, and somehow, they managed to make it even lighter than the original, now weighing just 18.83 grams. In addition, the RM 27-01 features a new system that can withstand up to 5000 Gs of force.

Richard Mille

In 2014, Nadal and Richard Mille released the second generation of the RM 035. This model features more subtle updates from the original, with a more ornate case and dial design. Here you’ll note pops of Rafa’s signature colors, red and yellow, as an homage to the Spanish flag. In addition, the RM 35-01 gets an upgraded movement, replacing the original caliber RMUL1 with the RMUL3. The RMUL3 offers a slightly more lightweight build (a mere 4 grams down from 4.3 grams) and a power reserve of 55-hours provided by a double-barrel system.

Richard Mille

The following year, we got the next generation of the model that started it all. With the RM 27-02, the pair continued upping the ante on bolder styling with a red-clay colored strap. However, the major headline for the RM 27-02 was the introduction of the very first skeletonized baseplate known as the “unibody.” The idea is that the case and baseplate are fused into a single piece, resulting in greater impact resistance on the court.

Richard Mille

In 2016, Nadal and Richard Mille went back to developing the RM 035 line with the next evolution: the RM 35-02. The model comes in two variations, one in more classic black and one in bright red. The red iteration marked a major departure to the lineup, not only in its color scheme but also in its functionality. For the first time, we see an automatic caliber powering the model.

Richard Mille

A year later, the pair announced not one, not two, but three new additions within their partnership. The first was the fourth generation of the RM 027. With the RM 27-03, we see the loudest model yet in terms of styling with an attention-commanding yellow and red case and strap. The boldness of the model continues through its technical achievements thanks to a totally new tourbillon movement that can withstand shocks of up to 10,000 Gs, which marked an industry first.

Richard Mille

In addition to the RM 27-03, 2017 ushered in two models exclusively for the American market, perhaps in response to Nadal notching his third U.S. Open title that year. The RM 035 Black Toro and RM 035 Gold Toro both nod to another one of the player’s nicknames, “The Bull.” Stylistically, the Black Toro pays homage to the design of the original RM 035 with the upgrade of the new automatic caliber RMAL1 found in the RM 35-02. As the name suggests, the Gold Toro offers a new aesthetic to the lineup with an 18-karat rose gold case.

Richard Mille

The introduction of the RM 27-04 in 2020 marked the 10-year anniversary of Nadal’s partnership with Richard Mille. For the occasion, the duo debuted a brand new case material called TitaCarb, a carbon fiber reinforced polyamide with the strength of steel while remaining far more lightweight. The resulting design was totally unique with a dial featuring metal mesh “strings” reminiscent of those of a tennis racket. The RM 27-04 also boasts upgraded functionality with a new caliber able to absorb 12,000 Gs in shock.

Richard Mille

In December 2023, on the heels of Rafa’s announcement to return to the game, Richard Mille unveiled its next model for the King of Clay’s comeback: the RM 35-03. The all-new timepiece is available in three versions: one in blue Quartz TPT with a white Quartz TPT caseband, one in white Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT with a Carbon TPT caseband, and one in full Carbon TPT. Of course, the RM 35-03 also showcases new technical achievements with a butterfly rotor that allows the wearer to directly interact with the rotor’s geometry, controlling the movement’s winding speed based on lifestyle and activity levels.

This article was originally featured in Robb Report

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How To Make the Ultimate Hangover Cure

Is this the ultimate cocktail to know by heart?

By Belinda Aucott-christie 29/05/2024

The Savoy in London, a beacon of luxury and opulence, holds a significant place in British history as the nation’s first luxury hotel. It was a haven where the affluent sought to experience a taste of royalty. Interestingly, it was within these grand walls that the alleged liquid remedy for hangovers, The Corpse Reviver, was born.

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Due to its medicinal qualities, this cocktail has passed into drinking folklore, making its recipe a right of passage for any lush.

The Corpse Reviver is aptly named for its life-affirming qualities and claimed ability to knock a hangover on the head.

It’s reassuring to know that the dreaded hangover was such a cause of social consternation in the late 1940s, that it demanded a creative response from Savoy’s hotel bar staff. We’ll drink to that.

Adding to the Corpse Reviver’s allure is the mystery surrounding its creation. Was it the ingenious work of Savoy bartender Johnny Johnson or the creative genius of Joe Gilmore? The exact timeline of its inception between 1948 and 1954 remains a tantalising enigma. 

It’s a zesty, slightly sour hangover cure with a cheeky touch of absinthe shining through. If your hangover is very bad, add a little more syrup to the mix.

To make, take a cocktail shaker and add equal parts dry gin, triple sec, lemon juice, and Lillet Blanc (3/4 of a shot each). 

Add a tiny dash of sugar syrup and absinthe, shake all ingredients with ice until very cold, strain and pour into a chilled coupe.

Garnish with a chic lemon twist and say cheerio to your hangover. 

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ThirdHome Arrives Down Under

The global home-swap club targeting Australia’s millionaires.

By Belinda Aucott 24/05/2024

Wayne Shealy made his name developing resorts from New England to the Caribbean, and shifting more than $3 billion in luxury real estate. In 2010 he started ThirdHome to let luxury homeowners leverage the empty parts of properties in their portfolio to enjoy better holidays. Billed as an exclusive community of ‘neighbours’, ThirdHome now facilitates swapping second and third homes for the super-wealthy.

Wade Shealy, CEO and Founder of ThirdHome, a luxury home-swapping membership program. THIRDHOME

While the glamorous international portfolio spans illustrious private residences, including castles, ranches and chalets, it has been extended to private islands, pieds-à-terre, safari camps, wineries, boutique hotels and yachts.

Turin Castle in Forfar, Scotland. THIRDHOME

Purpose-built for people who own at least two residences and have homes to spare valued at over $2 million, all applicants are vetted and assessed, before being allowed to join. With a global portfolio across 100 countries and 2500 destinations, Shealy is now focusing on Australia.

“We’re super excited for the next chapter of our Australian journey,” Shealy says, from his horse farm outside Nashville in Franklin, Tennessee. 

“We know there’s an extremely healthy appetite for Australians with second homes wanting to become members, who love to travel and want to enjoy exclusive access to the world’s more exceptional stays for a fraction of the price,” he says of his motivation for extending the network Down Under.  He notes that by cleverly utilising the downtime in their own homes, they can fund extravagant trips they may have never dreamt possible. Doing so in a gated community that values trust and respect.

Château De Vézins in Loire Valley, France. THIRDHOME

The spirit of sharing drives the sservice, with ThirdHome members acquiring points in the system each time they open their doors to others. This makes it a self-regulating community backed by solid technology and vigilant management that keeps applicants A-grade.

“Our members are house proud and guest proud,” he adds. “They want the guests to have a great experience.”

Learn more about membership and the rules of engagement here

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Art for Investment

A new private gallery in Sydney helps collectors enter the secondary market.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 24/05/2024

When Art Basel opens next month in Switzerland, it will do so with fresh power under its wings. In 2022 the global art market totalled $67.8 billion, showing 3 percent year-on-year growth*. This year, art topped Knight Frank’s Luxury Investment Index, with prices rising by 11 percent over 2023. According to most reports, art is now a positively appreciating asset class. By comparison, the values of rare whisky, classic cars, handbags, and furniture fell.

This raises the question of how to invest wisely in art and ensure the sound provenance of your investment. Jesse Jack De Deyne and Boris Cornelissen from A Secondary Eye are here to help art collectors. Conceived as a private gallery with rotating exhibitions, the space is designed to help serious investors confidently buy and sell.

“We offer access to some of the finest works entering the secondary market in Australia and operate with a stringent provenance framework in place,” says Jess Jack De Deyne from the company’s top-floor space overlooking leafy Queen Street in Sydney’s Woollahra.

De Deyne and Cornelissen opened in May with a presentation of rare works by Rover Thomas, the late East Kimberly artist who represented Australia at the 1990 Venice Biennale.

Rover Thomas, Desert Meeting Place, 1994 natural earth pigments on canvas.

De Deyne specialises in Indigenous Australian art and comes to Sydney with a background as a Director in an Aboriginal Arts Centre and working for a leading auction house. Cornelissen is a former contemporary art specialist from Sotheby’s in London and Hong Kong.

“We are most effective when a prospective client comes to us with a specific artwork in mind,” explains De Deyne. “They may have recently been to Canberra to visit the highly regarded exhibition of Emily Kame Kngwarreye at the National Gallery of Australia and there is a specific period of the artist that they are drawn to. Through our contacts, we may be able to help source available related works that would not necessarily appear at auction.” 

Though A Secondary Eye was founded in 2020 in Brisbane, De Denye says the larger pool of collectors drew them down to Sydney. The new gallery’s private aspect seems to be a key selling point for the duo, who prize discretion and private sales. 

Rover Thomas, Lake Argyle, 1994 natural earth pigments on canvas

“Whereas auctions are publicly advertised, a private dealer can offer a work discreetly to a handful of clients without over-exposing it. And we can also present works in a more considered way through curated, high-quality exhibitions that tell the story of each work.”

While some may be intimidated by entering the art market, these art dealers say exposure to the art world is key to unlocking its potential. “Take the time to attend art fairs, exhibitions and auction viewings. Don’t be afraid to ask questions and ask for advice. With time and experience, you will learn what you are drawn to and how the offered prices sit relative to other works in the market.”

In an art world overflowing with rules, customs, and jargon, De Deyne is quick to clarify the key difference between dealers and advisers for newbies. 

“An art dealer helps collectors buy and sell artworks and therefore has a commercial incentive in selling a work. The best art advisors work independently, often on a retainer, and don’t profit from the transaction, which means they can give their clients honest advice. 

De Deyne and Cornelissen are well-placed to help people get a foot in the market, no matter how experienced they are. Ultimately, they preach to the choir, appealing most to fine art collectors searching for a specific work. 

“We work in a niche area and ultimately attract people who share our interests. Art collectors, particularly on the secondary market, often follow the art, rather than the person selling it.”

Follow A Secondary Eye here for future exhibitions. 

*According to the 2023 Art Market 2023, authored by Dr. Clare McAndrew, Founder of Arts Economics and published by Art Basel in partnership with UBS

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Watch of the Week: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph

Roger Dubuis unveils its innovative chronograph collection in Australia for the very first time.

By Josh Bozin 21/05/2024

When avant-garde Swiss watchmaker Roger Dubuis revealed its highly anticipated Chronograph Collection halfway through 2023, it was a testament to its haute horology department in creating such a technical marvel for everyday use. Long at the forefront of cutting-edge design and technological excellence, Roger Dubuis (pronounced Ro-ger Du-BWEE) is no stranger to such acclaim.

Now, fans down under will finally get a taste of the collection that made headlines, with the official Australian unveiling of its Chronograph Collection. Representing precision engineering, extraordinary craftsmanship, and audacious design, this collection, now in its fifth generation, continues to redefine the chronograph category.

Roger Dubuis Australia welcomes the Excalibur Spider Collection to the market, featuring the exquisite Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph, as well as the Excalibur Spider Revuelto Flyback Chronograph (a timepiece made in partnership with Lamborghini Squadra Corse). Each model speaks at lengths to the future of ‘Hyper Horology’—watchmaking, as Roger Dubuis puts it, that pushes the boundaries of traditional watchmaking.

Roger Dubuis

“Roger Dubuis proposes a unique blend of contemporary design and haute horlogerie and the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph is the perfect illustration of this craft,” says Sadry Keiser, Chief Marketing Officer. “For its design, we took inspiration from the MonovortexTM Split-Seconds Chronograph, while we decided to power the timepiece with an iconic complication, the flyback chronograph, also marking its come back in the Maison’s collections.”

The Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph is bold and flashy—a chronograph made to be seen, especially at its 45mm size. But Roger Dubuis wouldn’t have it any other way. The supercar-inspired watch is certainly captivating in the flesh. Its multi-dimensional design reveals different layers of technical genius as you spend time with it: from its case crafted from lightweight carbon to its hyper-resistant ceramic bezel, black DLC titanium crown, open case back with sapphire crystal, and elegant rubber strap to tie the watch together, it’s a sporty yet incredibly refined timepiece.

The new RD780 chronograph calibre powers the chronograph, a movement fully integrated with two patents: one linked to the second hand of the chronograph and the other to the display of the minute counter. The chronograph also features a flyback function.

The complete set is now available at the Sydney Boutique for those wishing to see the Roger Dubuis Chronograph Collection firsthand.

Roger-Dubuis

 

Roger-Dubuis

Model: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph
Diameter: 45mm
Material: C-SMC Carbon case
Water resistance: 100m

Movement: RD780 calibre
Complication: Chronograph, date
Functions: hours, minutes, and central seconds
Power reserve: 72 hours

Bracelet: Black rubber strap

Availability: upon request
Price: $150,000


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