
Connoisseur: The Godfather of Soil
Talking terroir and steep slopes with the chef de cave behind one of France’s most coveted single vintages.
In the region of Champagne, Charles Philipponnat is a man who needs no introduction. His single-plot, single-vintage Champagne Clos des Goisses, has long established a major cult following. Thanks to 21 hectares of prime real estate around Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, his flagship Champagne unveils the magic of deep chalk. Pinot noir provides the power and structure, while chardonnay provides the generous, fleshy fruit.
Established in 1522, wine has been made by the Philipponat clan for five generations, but it is now owned by Lanson (itself with a storied heritage dating back to 1760). Still, Pinot Noir dominates the cuvée with the typical blend being two-thirds pinot noir and one-third chardonnay. Monsieur Philipponnat sat down with Robb Report just after his 2024 vintage to discuss what makes the walled vineyard at Clos des Goisses so remarkable.

You are the chef de cave at Philipponnat. Describe your role and the style you make.
I am not Picasso. My job is to carve the house style from what exists and what has existed before me. Philipponnat is rooted in the great pinot noir area around Aÿ and that’s where our style stems from. We make intense wines, fruity wines that have a natural tension from the chalk in the soil. This terroir becomes transparent in the winemaking, so we can achieve balance between intensity of fruit and freshness.
Clos des Goisses is revered. What makes this plot so special?
The local conditions around Aÿ with the south-facing slopes, planted to pinot noir grapes, makes it special. The fact that the subsoil is just pure chalk and beneath it, lies chalk for hundreds and hundreds of metres. Clos des Goisses embodies all that which Aÿ is known for but to an absolute extreme. The freshness comes from the chalk.

Is the slope of the site critical to the grape’s development?
Clos Des Goisses is full south and the steepness of the slope is between 35 and 45 degrees, so the subsoil is very close to the surface. Because the slope is so pronounced, that topsoil is very eroded. And since the topsoil is very eroded, there’s little of it, and the vines have to dig immediately into the chalk. So the grapes from here are even more mineral than in other areas of Champagne. It is the steepest of all slopes in the region.

Is it true you’ve tasted vintages of Clos des Goisses dating to the ’30s?
I’ve tasted back to 1939. That’s the oldest I’ve had.
In your mind, what sets apart the greatest vintages from Clos des Goisses?
Vintages may differ, and they have different qualities according to the season. There’s not one that I absolutely prefer, but the one I’m most fond of talking about is Clos des Goisses 1979. It had everything. It had the right balance. It had the fruit, it had tension, it had the lovely, peachy aromas that we like, while still being well-built. That’s the kind of vintage I like.
Top image by Leif Carlson.
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