The 13 Best Watches at Pitti Uomo, From Big Rolexes to a Dainty Piaget

The crown, unsurprisingly reigned on many wrists, but a few well-heeled attendees dared to venture beyond.

By Lorenzo Sodi And Paige Reddinger 20/01/2024

At Pitti Uomo, wrists came dripping in mostly Rolex. It’s no surprise really. The crown is the crown because of its endless appeal across all personalities and for an event where men come to parade in their refined finest, a Rollie is the most versatile choice for all occasions. Submariners seemed to reign supreme, closely followed, naturally, by Daytonas for those that can afford their astronomical modern-day prices. It’s proof that whether or not you are a finance bro keen on flexing the most obvious choice in the boardroom or a stylish gent preening for the cameras at the world’s most fashionable menswear event, Rolex remains, undeniably, the trophy watch for them all.

But there were a handful that chose to venture beyond the obvious. A TAG Heuer was worn with a camel colored double breasted suit topped off with a fringe-adorned matching puffer, a quietly unassuming square-faced Patek Philippe Ref. 3555 popped out beneath the cuff of a soft military green trench, and a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso accented an all-white suit that was so perfectly paired it looked as though they had been meant to go together since inception. One particularly creative gentleman in shirt and tie befitting of Dwight Schrute of The Office with an ultra-cool cherry red Barbour-style jacket thrown over and pinstripe pants was keen on being so far off the “norm” grid, he chose a vintage Nivada watch a Tiger’s Eye dial.

While there’s no denying that Rolex will always be stylish—it has remained as synonymous with watchmaking as Kleenex is with tissue for a reason—one wishes that a little more fun could be had pushing the style boundaries on the wrist. Those that did certainly stood out from then endless parade of sports models. A dainty Piaget Protocole dress watch, for example, looked entirely unexpected and charmingly hip in the sea of overtly masculine tool watches.

Regardless, each timekeeper matched its wearer so exactly one couldn’t help thinking how these tiny mechanical marvels can transform so radically from wrist to wrist. Here are 13 that ticked all our boxes.

Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263

Lorenzo Sodi

Alessandro Squarzi is the creative director of Fay Archive, owner of the Fortela label, a vintage-clothing afficionado, watch collector and a street-style photographer’s favorite—for good reason, as you can see. Here, multiple layers (multiple shirts, a scarf and a Fay Archive jacket) complete this ruggedly cool look, but its the wrist that’s the crowning touch. What looks to be a rare Rolex Ref. 6263 with a reverse panda dial and a jubilee bracelet signals serious collector status.

Rolex DateJust

Lorenzo Sodi

There is often a fear with full yellow-gold watches that it could come off as “kingpin” attire, but Kenji Cheung, of Brycelands, shows exactly how to rock it. Peeping beneath a classic checked shirt, turtleneck, jeans, and an overcoat, it looks as boss as it did in the ’70s and ’80s but with an entirely new perspective.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Lorenzo Sodi

This is how we imagine spectators used to dress to watch a game of polo in the ’30s when the flip face Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was developed for players on horseback who needed their timekeepers protected on the field. Both the suit and the watch look as elegant today as they did in their heyday.

Rolex “No-Date” Submariner

Lorenzo Sodi

What’s more hip than rocking a Rolex “no-date” Submariner a.k.a. the everyman’s watch, known for its universal appeal, than wearing it with a belted mahogany leather bomber jacket with fur accents in a butterscotch hue? Ethan Newton, also from Brycelands, is known for his eclectic style, but always looks put together, however the mood takes him.

Omega Speedmaster

Lorenzo Sodi

An Omega Speedmaster suddenly takes on new dimensions when worn with an otherwise dandy mix of a velvet jacket worn over a check blazer with a cream turtleneck and burgundy silk scarf, as well as wide-leg dress pants. The thin metal bracelet also adds an element of surprise that hits just right. Nice work here, by photographer Robert Weng.

Piaget Protocole

Lorenzo Sodi

There is a quiet micro trend of gentlemen wearing near dainty dress watches that is so utterly confident and cool it’s bound to become more pervasive. This gold Piaget Protocole is the perfect example. When first introduced in 1957, its caliber 9P was the slimmest manual-wound movement ever made at just 2 mm thick.

Patek Philippe Ref. 3555

Lorenzo Sodi

The Patek Philippe Ref. 3555 is an unusual square-faced time-only watch rarely seen today. It was first introduced in the ’60s and thanks to its clean, classic look it’s a truly handsome model versatile enough to go with a myriad of looks. And the vintage model can be snagged for under $15,000…a relative steal in this watchmaker’s realm. Worn here by Buzz Tang from bespoke tailors The Anthology.

Rolex Submariner

Lorenzo Sodi

For this funky mix of midtown hedge fund analyst meets downtown hipster artist, this Rolex Submariner is the perfect touch. It satisfies the style appetites of both personalities, looking just as at home in the boardroom as it does on a Thursday night at Gagosian Gallery.

Rolex Submariner; Cartier Baignoire

Lorenzo Sodi

Cheers to this quiet luxury couple, who look rather chic and unassuming in sneakers and soft overcoats. A closer look reveals (yet another) Rolex Submariner and an elegant gold Cartier Baignoire on their respective wrists and, not to mention, a grey crocodile Hermès Birkin bag.

Vintage Nivada

Lorenzo Sodi

One of the most eccentric and fun looks from Pitti was from this man dressed in a cherry red Barbour-esque jacket, a shirt and tie fit for a ’70s suburban dad, pinstripe pants, and a scarf with designs that look like those on a medieval tapestry. It was team with a vintage-looking Nivada watch with Tiger’s Eye dial.

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570

Lorenzo Sodi

There’s a lot going on here, but Nicola Radano carries it off with aplomb. The plaid overcoat, tailored cotton pants, loafers, and scarf combo is nicely combined with his ’80s-era Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570, that shares its owners sense of flair, with its red accented 24-hour hand.

Lorenzo Sodi

Nothing could be more unexpected than a TAG Heuer steel chronograph on a bracelet with this look. Yet, inexplicably, the camel-colored combination of a double breasted suit, fedora, hiking boots and fringe-adorned Cowboy-style puffer jacket somehow works wonderfully with this sporty but elegant timekeeper.

Lorenzo Sodi

This handsome overcoat, allowing a peek of grey Prince of Wales double-breasted suit underneath, is paired with a two-tone Rolex DateJust, giving the whole vibe an ’80s feel. The beard, handle-bar ‘stache, and sunglasses the color of an Aperol Spritz gives the look even more power.

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents and a creamy-taupe, vintage-inspired dial. This particular model arrives on a steel bracelet with an eggshell dial and presents as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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