
Meet the ‘Hidden Heroes’ of German watchmaking at A. Lange & Sӧhne
Three watches. Three underrated masterpieces. Three ways to experience the “full measure” of Glashütte’s horological distinction.
One thing every great watchmaking maison of the 20th century has in common is that they’re in possession of a headline act — oftentimes multiple. That’s true of Rolex, it’s true of Vacheron, and it’s certainly true of A. Lange & Söhne.
Ask around in horological circles, and the Saxonian watchmaker’s designs that tend to be front-of-mind include the divinely asymmetric Lange 1, or technically formidable Zeitwerk (high horology’s answer to the humble digital clock).
Of course, Lange being Lange, these collections are only the tip of the iceberg. That brand has never been interested in beating horologists about the head with the cudgel of self-promotion, which is partly why it remains an underrated seam for watch collecting — with numerous pieces awaiting discovery among those who value subtlety and distinction.
Last month, the brand assembled a handful of such watches under the banner of a ‘Hidden Heroes’ campaign. Below Robb Report Australia selects three of our favourites: pieces that “reward those who seek them out” with their “unique embodiment of watchmaking art”.
The 1815 Rattranpante Perpetual Calendar

It’s hard to imagine that a watch with as much firepower in the engineering department as this 1815 could be a ‘hidden’ gem, yet here we are. Building upon the split-second chronograph that gives it its name, this particular 1815 also integrates a perpetual calendar and moonphase into a single, classically styled package.
Somehow, the resultant grand complication is housed within a 41.9mm case — seemingly no bigger than the average professional dive watch. The aesthetics are undeniably impressive: particularly the limited edition that combines white gold with a pinkish, salmon-hued dial. But it is the calibre L101.01 that should draw every serious gearhead’s attention.
Like a miniature city under glass, this 636-part movement utilises its complex anatomy as a canvas for the most artisanal of decorations: from the various rubies studded with their own orbit of fire-blued screws to the hand-engraved floral motif clearly visible at 6 o’clock.
Richard Lange Tourbillon ‘Pour le Mérite’

Since its re-establishment following the historic reunification of Germany, Lange has only seen fit to release five watches with ‘Pour le Mérite’ certification. Inspired by a Prussian order of merit in the arts and natural sciences bearing the same name, only “the most technically accomplished references” in the Lange repertoire will be accorded the title. Yet technical accomplishment is not necessarily synonymous with visual extravagance.
This Richard Lange tourbillon, for instance, emphasises the eponymous collection’s roots in 19th century observatory watches — scientific instruments that, above all else, had to be highly accurate and easy to read. Superimposed against the white dial, this watch’s hour and minute tracks are simply rendered and legible in the extreme.
In comparison to a watch like the 1815 perpetual calendar, this ‘hidden hero’ doesn’t look particularly complicated, but gets its ‘Pour le Mérite’ credentials on grounds of innovation. Using an unabashedly old-school engineering system — the fusée-and-chain — it is able to solve the very real modern-day problem of uneven power delivery to the mainspring, making for a movement that runs smoother, longer, and gets the aesthetic bonus of a tourbillon.
Datograph Perpetual

While there’s debatable truth to the old adage about ‘saving the best for last’, we’re willing to treat the Datograph as the exception. First introduced in 1999, this watch derives its catchy moniker from a portmanteau of the words ‘date’ and ‘chronograph’.
A flyback chronograph with a deep bench of distinguished admirers, most notably “legendary” indie watchmaker Philippe Dufour, the Datograph embodies a high point for luxury watchmaking in the early 2000s. Even today, the movement that powered it is among the small handful made and developed completely from scratch outside of Switzerland; and has spawned a whole family tree of variations, including the ‘Lumen’ and ‘Up/Down’.
This perpetual calendar-toting take arrived in 2006, and is among the most technically complex models in the Datograph range — high praise indeed when you consider the sophistication of the original, chronograph-only design.
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