
The Chinese Feast
A distinctly Cantonese flavour prevailed at Robb Report’s Culinary Masters 2024 as we honoured this year’s standout chef.
A major holiday in many parts of Asia, the Moon Festival, also known as Mid-Autumn Festival, stems from the ancient Chinese practice of Moon-worshipping to express gratitude for the year’s harvest and blessings. In addition to gazing at the Moon and hanging colourful lanterns, it is also a time for coming together and feasting with family and friends.
A fitting night, in other words, for Robb Report’s Culinary Masters 2024, honouring Neil Perry as the standout chef of the year. There was even a full Moon for good measure. Held at Song Bird, Perry’s new three-storey Cantonese restaurant in Double Bay, the annual culinary extravaganza attracted the cream of the city’s titans of industry, VIPs and gourmands. The gourmet gathering made for a glamorous night of red-carpet moments and food-focused partying funded by a roster of prestige sponsors: Gaggenau, Jacob & Co., NAB Private Wealth, Código 1530 Tequila, Champagne Lallier and Petaluma Wines.

Esteemed guests included C-Suiters Michael Saadie (NAB Private Wealth), Maria Lykouras (JBWere), Nicholas Hooper (Jacob & Co.) and Gretchen Fox (Aware Super), as well as ASX Refinitiv Foundation’s Gerard Doyle, dashing adventurer/philanthropist Luke Hepworth and Atomic 212 founder Barry O’Brien. They savoured an exotic menu crafted by Perry, while enjoying exquisite Petaluma Yellow Label wines. They also got to admire stunning Jacob & Co. timepieces and sample Sisko chocolates graciously provided by Gaggenau.



Epic X Skeleton
Given that the restaurant had only opened the week before our event, a lot of the talk at the beginning of the night was understandably focused on the magic that Perry might conjure in his return to Chinese cooking—his fifth Asian restaurant in Sydney in a career that spans four decades.
He did not disappoint. The menu featured produce-driven Cantonese specialties, such as delectable Wollemi Peking duck paired with hoisin sauce, various condiments and homemade pancakes, as well as Abrolhos Island sea scallops elegantly presented on the half shell with vermicelli noodles and a dressing of black bean, garlic and ginger.

While traditionally the Mid-Autumn festival includes eating mooncakes (round, palm-sized Chinese pastries filled with either red bean or lotus seed paste), the diners completed the evening with Perry’s decadent chocolate and mandarin pavlova with caramelised hazelnuts.

“The lifeblood of Song Bird,” Perry explained, “are all the suppliers. Then we layer on all these beautiful Chinese seasonings which really make the produce shine. Those two things are what I love most about Cantonese food.” Add to that, he continued, “a beautiful environment, great service, fantastic wine and cocktails, and you have the ingredients for a fantastic experience.”

Perry was understandably beaming over his new banquet house, especially the original spiral staircase that dominates the Neville Gruzman-designed heritage building and was only completed hours earlier (“the bane of my existence!” he conceded) but he is in no hurry to do it again. “This is possibly the hardest opening of my life, but it’s definitely the last one,” he said at one point during his acceptance speech. “Count on it.”

The audible gasps in the room suggested the news was a blow to Perry’s ardent fans. But by the time they emerged sated a few hours later, the moonlit sky over Double Bay glowing like so many lanterns, the mood in the air was decidedly one of celebration.
To be a part of 2025 Culinary Masters and other coming events, visit robbreport.com.au/events
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