
Watch of the Week: Louis Vuitton Unveils a Transparent Frank Gehry-Designed Tambour
A massive step forward in strengthening Louis Vuitton as a serious high-watchmaking marque.
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The new word in watches is “high watchmaking.” A notion that, essentially, is the coming together of the finest watchmakers at one brand to curate the ultimate example of watch finery, often the culmination of months—and sometimes years—of dedication, finesse and skill.
In the case of Louis Vuitton, the luxury fashion house-turned-watchmaker is certainly looking to showcase its watchmaking pedigree. Under the watchful eye of Jean Arnault, Louis Vuitton’s director of watches, the 26-year-old is proving that Louise Vuitton—together with its timepiece manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps—can go toe-to-toe with the world’s best watch brands.
Case in point: the new Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Sapphire Frank Gehry; a timepiece that highlights a legendary collaboration with lauded architect and designer Frank Gehry. Notably, this is the Canadian artist’s first foray into watchmaking.
Inspired by the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris and the Louis Vuitton Maison Seoul—two of Gehry’s most impressive designs—this piece is completely made of transparent sapphire, providing its wearer an uninterrupted view of the flying tourbillon calibre which has been masterfully produced and assembled at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
“My inspiration comes from the sea, fish, boats, the nautical world, because they embody the notion of movement, mobility, speed”, said Frank Gehry.
“I like to express movement, inject this energy and dynamic into static materials.”
To fully understand and appreciate this technical feat, one must understand the level of detail and intricacy at hand. For starters, this piece took two years to come to fruition. The case, dial, crown, lugs and hands have all been cut from sapphire, a notoriously difficult gem to work with. The dial, for example, took over 250 hours to manufacture, and is finished using diamond powder and a diamond-tipped drill. What results is unique asymmetric patterns and swirls that can be seen at different lighting angles, all inspired by Gehry’s deconstructivist designs.
There are also 160 components to this piece alone, all of which were produced and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton—including the impressive and delicate open-worked Calibre LFTMM05.01 mechanical movement, which was entirely created, developed and assembled in-house. Equipped with an impressive 80-hour power reserve, this hand-wound mechanical movement can be seen in all its glory through the sapphire glass, allowing every millimetre of its beauty to shine.
Of course, it’s hard to miss Frank Gehry’s signature aesthetics adorned throughout this piece, but upon discovering the case back, you’ll find his signature etched on the sapphire— underscoring the uniqueness, boldness and innovation of this limited timepiece.
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Model: Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Sapphire Frank Gehry
Diameter: 48.3mm
Material: case, lugs and crown in sapphire
Dial colour: Sapphire, polished and mattified by hand (inspired by Frank Gehry’s architectural works)
Lume: Sapphire hands, outline in HyCeram Luminex
Water resistance: 30m
Movement: Calibre LFTMM05.01, developed and assembled by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
Functions: skeleton flying tourbillon, hours and minutes
Frequency: 21,600vph
Winding: manual
Power reserve: 80 hours
Strap: White taurillon leather strap with rose gold folding buckle
Price: price on request
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