Patek’s 8-Day Marvel Arrives in Australia
The new Calatrava Ref. 5328G-001 pairs rugged vintage charm with a refined white gold case and a powerful new manual movement.
When it first debuted in March 2022, Patek Philippe’s reference 5326G represented a step in a fun, intrepid direction we typically don’t associate with the brand. It was, of course, still a model with serious horological weight behind it, combining two of Patek’s most renowned complications with its travel time and annual calendar. But the vintage styling, everyday wearability and distinct air of functionality it possessed was a refreshing change-up—albeit one that still carried Patek’s pristine finishing.
Three years later, at this year’s Watches and Wonders event, the 5326G’s sibling arrived in the form of the 5328G: a piece that carried much of the former’s DNA, but presented in a way that pushes Patek’s reputation for the elegant application of power even further. In fact, it may turn out to be considered something of a milestone watch in good time.
The reasons for this are numerous. Firstly and most importantly, the new reference also carries an entirely new manually-wound calibre—a move that always snaps heads to attention among collectors’ circles. It carries the code 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J, and is a Calatrava with an astonishing eight-day power reserve. In unveiling the watch Patek were quick to paint the 5328G as a spiritual successor to other watches the maison has released over the years that have pushed the boundaries of power and longevity, such as the Reference 5100, the world’s first Chronometer with a 10-day power reserve, and even harkened back to the clocks the house made back in the 1920s and ‘30s, some of which carried power reserves of up to a month.
In the metal, the 5328G carries much of what made the 5326G a watch distinctly designed to have everyday appeal. One might even be tempted to label it a field watch, with its bold, functional lettering, angular case shape and the rustic hobnail patterning that runs along its midcase. Syringe hands on the face, as well as the classically-designed movement visible through the back of the case, also call back to the classic field watches of the ‘30s and ‘40s.
That’s not to say the Patek isn’t leagues above the watches it takes inspiration from. A close-up look will indicate very quickly that it is. The case is hewn from pristine white gold, textured on the caseband with that distinctive Clous de Paris guilloché finish, while the blue-to-black dial is subtly textured and accented with luminous white hands.
At the top and bottom of the dial respectively rest the two features that make the 5328G an understated horological powerhouse: an indicator giving a reading of its eight-day power reserve (with the needle coming to the red in the ninth, in which the watch will still function but not quite as accurately); and an instantaneously jumping day/date function. It is, of course, an expensive daily driver, but it’s nonetheless refreshing when a watch comes along that exudes elegance without trying to be flashiest thing on the red carpet.
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G is now available for the first time on Australian shores. Enquiries can be made through J. Farren Price.
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