All Of Patek’s New Pieces

The brand’s Watches & Wonders revelations were striking—in more ways than one.

By Nick Scott 29/03/2023

The oldest independent, family-owned Genevan watch manufacture is famously tight-lipped when it comes to what will be culled from its collections and what will appear in place—so informed observers were surprised when Patek Philippe announced, days before Watches & Wonders, that it would be welcoming three new white gold timepieces into the Calatrava family, applying a contemporary, graphic new aesthetic to its iconic, dressy, round wristwatch line.

All three feature a black dial whose distinguishing feature is an embossed chequered pattern in a smaller circle at the centre, which juxtapose elegantly with the flashes of yellow, sky blue, or red (depending on which you opt for) found on the counters, seconds hands and strap stitching.

Unveiling 17 new watches in Geneva—the home city of the Stern family—for only the second time, Patek had a few more surprises up its sleeve. Here are the highlights of what the Swiss giants unveiled this time around.

New Takes on Famous Striking Watches

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300GR-001
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300GR-001

Patek’s repertoire, which currently hovers at around 150 references, has always involved exceptional ambition when it comes to complication combos: as exemplified in 2014 when it unveiled the Grandmaster Chime which, with more than 20 complications, went into the history books as the most intricate wristwatch ever created.

These complications included five chiming modes (one of them being an alarm striking the times and dates on demand). Now, the manufacture has reimagined the design of that model’s double-face reversible case in white and rose gold (Reference 6300GR-001). Two brown opaline dials, with a Clous de Paris (tiny, guillochéd pyramid-like squares displaying the time) complemented by a two-tone, chestnut-hued, patinated alligator strap and bicolour folding buckle.

Elsewhere, Patek has alloyed haute horlogerie with haute joaillerie in Reference 6300/403G-001: a piece that shimmers with 118 baguette-cut emeralds and 291 baguette-cut diamonds, set against two dials in ebony-black opaline, with a hand-guilloched Clous de Paris: here, a shiny black alligator leather strap with emerald-green hand-stitching completes the effect.

A new interpretation of Reference 5316, which was launched six years ago and unites a minute repeater, a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar with retrograde date hand and a moon-phase indicator (Reference 5316/50P-001), unites a platinum case and a sapphire-crystal dial with blue metallization and a black-gradient rim. Meanwhile, the Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater (Reference 5531G-001) becomes the company’s first such model in white gold. The new Grand Feu cloisonné enamel scene at the center of the dial depicts one of Lake Geneva’s famous steamboats.

 

Refreshed Designs in the Calatrava collection

Patek Philippe's New 2023 Calatrava Designs
Patek Philippe’s new 2023 Calatrava designs.

On top of the new white gold iterations mentioned above, Patek has opted to replenish its Calatrava collection—which, since its launch in 1932, has become widely considered the gold standard when it comes to dress watches—with a variety of complications.

Reference 5224R-001—whose rose-gold case works harmoniously with its blue dial and hand-applied numerals, hour markers, and five-minute cabochons in rose gold—features a Travel Time dual time zone function and an original 24-hour display, while its brand new self-winding movement boasts a patented system whereby local time can be corrected via the crown.

References 5924G-001 and 5924G-010 see the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph furnished with two chronograph models: one with a blue-gray sunburst dial and a navy-blue grained calfskin strap; the other with a lacquered dial in khaki green and an olive-green calfskin strap with a vintage finish. Both pack a self-winding movement uniting a holy trinity of complications: a fly-back chronograph, a Travel Time dual time zone function, and the date indicated by a hand.

Elsewhere, the Calatrava line has been bolstered by modernized reiterations with ebony black dials, and a reinterpretation of a class self-winding model for women, here housed in a rose-gold case and boasting a strap and dial in purple (the latter packs impressive visual depth, thanks to its pattern of concentric waves being made up of more than fifty layers of translucent lacquer).

Stealing the show—at least when it comes to the Calatrava updates—was Reference 5189G-001, AKA “1948 Nations Grand Prix”. Limited to 10 pieces, the design is an homage to races held in Geneva from 1946 to 1950. The racing scene, with Lake Geneva’s Jet d’eau fountain as the backdrop, is rendered in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel, requiring 17 enamel colours as well as 40 cm of gold wire and silver leaf. The pierced watch hands and strap, meanwhile, hint at racing drivers’ gloves.

 

A Tasteful Makeover for the Aquanaut and Aquanaut Luce

Patek Philippe's new Aquanaut designs for 2023.
Two of Patek Philippe’s new Aquanaut designs for 2023.

The sport watch as we know it today, many watch buffs would argue, was effectively invented in 1972, when Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak. Two more significant milestones in the sports watch narrative came in 1976 and 1997, though, when Patek launched the Nautilus (designed by the man who penned the Royal Oak, Gerald Genta) and the Aquanaut respectively.

Those lamenting the lack of updates to the former will be buoyed by intriguing additions to the latter line. A fitting sequel to the Travel Time dual time-zone model introduced in 2021 and a self-winding chronograph version the year after, an Aquanaut Luce model has been unveiled with a patented Annual Calendar.

Encased in rose gold, with a blue-gray dial and strap, Reference 5261R-001 bolsters the options for women Patek aficionados who favour non-gem-set models, as does the self-winding Reference 5268/200R-010: a piece whose rose-gold case contrasts elegantly with a dial and strap in taupe.

The self-winding Aquanaut chronograph for men (Reference 5968R-001), meanwhile, hitherto available in steel and in white gold, now comes in a rose-gold case with a sunburst dial in a gradient of brown to black.

Other highlights of Patek’s new novelties included the Self-winding Flyback Chronograph with Annual Calendar (Reference 5905R-010) with a rose-gold case and a blue sunburst dial and the Gondolo Serata (Reference 4962/200R-001): a stunning piece in rose gold, set with spessartites (golden brown aluminium garnets) complementing a brown-lacquered dial with a floral decoration.

Also unveiled in Geneva, as part of Patek Philippe’s “Rare Handcrafts 2023” collection being presented at its Salons in Geneva from April 1 to 15, was a pocket watch featuring a leopard, rendered in marquetry. The piece involved the assemblage of 363 tiny veneer parts and 50 inlays, and a palette of 21 species of wood of different colours, textures, and veining.

Watch this space for a full breakdown of Patek’s new additions. This story will be updated as we get more details.

 

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Haute Joallerie Ref 6300/430G-001

Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Haute Joallerie Ref 6300/430G-001

Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 5316.50P-001

Patek Philippe Grand Complication Ref. 5316.50P-001

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 55521G-001

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 55521G-001

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater Ref. 5178G-012

Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts Minute Repeater Ref. 5178G-012

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5224R-001

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5224R-001

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G-001

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G-001

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5294-010

Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5294-010

Patek Philippe Calatrava Refs. 6007G-001, 6007G-010, 6007G-011

Patek Philippe Calatrava Refs. 6007G-001, 6007G-010, 6007G-011

Patek Philippe Calatrava Self-Winding Ref. 4997/200R-001

Patek Philippe Calatrava Refs. 6007G-001, 6007G-010, 6007G-011

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Ref. 5261R-001

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Ref. 5261R-001

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Ref. 5268/200R-010

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Ref. 5268/200R-010

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968R-001

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968R-001

Patek Philippe Self-Winding Flyback Chronograph With Annual Calendar Ref. 5905-010

Patek Philippe Self-Winding Flyback Chronograph With Annual Calendar Ref. 5905-010

Patek Philippe Gondola Serata Ref. 4962/200R-001

Patek Philippe Gondola Serata Ref. 4962/200R-001

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The Boldest, Most Exciting New Timepieces From Watches & Wonders 2024

Here are the highlights from the world’s biggest watch releases of the year.

By Allen Farmelo, Carol Besler, Paige Reddinger, Oren Hartov, Victoria Gomelsky, Cait Bazemore, Nick Scott, Justin Fenner 10/04/2024

Watches & Wonders, the world’s largest watch show, is in full swing in Geneva. The highly anticipated cascade of new releases is marked by confident individual brand identities — perhaps a sign that watchmakers are done scrambling through the violent collision of restricted supply and soaring demand for high end watches. All seem to be back on solid footing.

Steady confidence is a good thing. Consider Jaeger-LeCoultre offering up traditionally styled grand complications or Vacheron Constantin revamping the classic Patrimony with smaller cases and vintage-inspired radially brushed dials. Consider TAG Heuer celebrating the 55th anniversary of the square Monaco with a skeletonized flyback confidently priced at US$183,000, or Moser similarly showing off a fascinating skeletonized tourbillon in its distinctive 40 mm Streamliner at US$86,900. IWC has leaned hard into their traditionally styled Portugieser line, including an astounding Eternal Calendar complication. We find the storied French houses of Cartier, Chanel and Hermes blurring the lines between jewelry and watchmaking with the technical prowess and artistic whimsy that originally earned these brands their exalted place in the hearts and minds of sophisticated aesthetes. Confidence abounds in 2024.

We could go on and on with examples, but the watches below will demonstrate that for 2024 the big watch brands dared to be themselves, which appears to have given them the confidence to take some seriously compelling horological risks. We have separate coverage of off-show releases and, of course, Patek and Rolex, so keep and eye out for those.

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Patek Philippe Brings Back Collector Favourites at Watches & Wonders 2024

Both the Nautilus Chronograph and Aquanaut Travel Time receive a welcome return.

By Josh Bozin 10/04/2024

If you’re a watch fan, there’s every reason to believe that a Patek Philippe Nautilus, Patek Philippe Aquanaut—or both—would be high on your wish list. Both collections are of historical significance, helping pave the way for the influence of the steel sports watch category—and subsequent chokehold on the market today.

So, when Patek Philippe unveiled its newest releases at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, it was a pleasant surprise to see the return of two of the best past iterations of the Nautilus and Aquanaut collections.

Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph

First, we get a new Nautilus Chronograph, with the return of the revered 5980, now replete with a new case in white gold and a denim-like strap (a contentious issue among watch pundits). Discontinuing all Nautilus 5980 models earlier this year, including the collector-favourite 5980/1AR in Rose Gold, left a sombre feeling among Nautilus fanatics. These celebrated chronographs, renowned for their distinctive porthole-inspired design and air of sporty elegance, are some of the most sought-after watches in the Patek Philippe catalogue. Thus, the revival of the 5980, now in white gold, is a cause for collectors’ celebration.

The new offering retains its chronograph function with mono-counter tracking 60-minute and 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock on the dial, but now comes on a new denim-inspired, hand-stitched fabric strap with a Nautilus fold-over clasp in white gold—some will love it, some won’t.

Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe

The Calibre CH 28‑520 C/522 powers this new Nautilus with its flyback chronograph, all of which is visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback. The dial is also incredibly eye-catching, with a beautiful opaline blue-gray hue accentuated by white gold-applied hour markers with a white luminescent coating. It is priced at approximately $112,000.

Also returning to the fold is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time, now with its own bluish hue dial—similar to its Nautilus counterpart. After discontinuing the Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A this year, as well—a watch often regarded as the greatest Aquanaut to date—Patek Philippe surprised all with the new 5164G in white gold. Its greatest attribution is the clever Travel Time GMT function, which clearly rivals the Rolex GMT-Master II as perhaps the travel-friendly watch of choice (if acquiring one was that simple, of course).

For those who prefer the Aquanaut’s sportiness and easy-wearing rubber strap, this newest iteration, with its Opaline Blue-gray dial and matching rubber strap with a deployant clasp, is undoubtedly an icon in the making. The new 5164G has a 40mm case and features the Calibre 26‑330 S C FUS movement, which can also be viewed via the transparent sapphire crystal caseback.

Expect to pick up the new Aquanaut Travel Time for around $95,250.  

Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time

 

Follow @robbreportau for all your Watches & Wonders coverage, and more!

 

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Rolex Kicks Off Watches & Wonders 2024 with a New GMT-Master II

The new stainless steel GMT-Master II has already been dubbed the “Bruce Wayne”.

By Josh Bozin 09/04/2024

It may not be the GMT that watch pundits were speculating on—or that collectors were hoping for—but the new Rolex GMT-Master II with a new grey and black ceramic bezel adds dazzle to the revered Rolex collection, which this year celebrates its 70th anniversary.

The idea of a new Rolex GMT launching at the world’s biggest watch fair is cause for a little madness. While the watch community eagerly awaited what was thought to be the discontinuation of the highly sought-after GMT “Pepsi” and the return of the GMT “Coke,” the luxury Swiss watchmaker had other plans.

Instead, we’re presented with a piece that, on paper, hasn’t changed much from previous GMT releases. That’s not to say that this isn’t an impressive release that will speak to consumers—the new GMT-Master II ref.126710GRNR, dubbed the “Bruce Wayne,” is definitely a sight for sore eyes.

Rolex
Rolex

This new GMT retains the same dimensions and movement as the other watches in the GMT collection, along with its 40mm size case and the option to fit either an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. The obvious changes, albeit subtle, come in the way of its mostly monochrome return; a fact that will appease traditionalists. If you’re opposed to the attention-drawing “Pepsi”, “Sprite”, or “Batman” iterations, this model is a stealthier pick—much like pseudonymous Bruce Wayne.

The other noticeable change is the “GMT-Master II” now applied in green text and a 24-hour hand in green; perhaps a nod to the 2007 Basel World GMT release.

Like many Rolex timepieces, this will generate great hype and attention, so don’t expect allocations to come easily.

Rolex
Rolex

Model: GMT-Master II
Reference Number: 126710GRNR

Diameter: 40mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Colour: Black
Lume: Chromalight on hands and hour markers
Water Resistance: 100m
Bracelet: Oyster or Jubilee

Movement: Caliber 3285
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Winding: Automatic

Price: $17,150 (Oyster); $17,500 (Jubilee)
Availability: Now. Non-limited edition

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Moments in Time

Silversea’s Kimberley adventures transport passengers into a different dimension.

By Vince Jackson 09/04/2024

Whoever refuted the theory of time-travel has clearly never set foot in the Kimberley, a geological relic where craggy landscapes forged hundreds of millions of years ago remain untouched, and dinosaur footprints are still etched into the ochre terrain. And while traversing one of the planet’s last great wildernesses in a 4X4 holds rugged appeal, a more refined way to explore the Western Australian outback is by cruise liner. 

Enter the Silver Cloud, one of Silversea’s most luxurious vessels, available for 10- or 17-day expeditions. Upon arrival via private executive transfer, expect a level of intimacy that’s often conspicuous on other cruise experiences. With a maximum of just 200 guests, attended to by 212 staff, the Silver Cloud can lay claim to the greatest passenger-to-crew ratios operating in the Kimberley. Twenty-four-hour butler service is standard for every suite, along with ocean views—no matter if you plump for a modest 22 m² Vista Suite or supersize to a 217 m² Grand Suite.

Yet bigger is not necessarily better on water; the ship itself is compact enough to manoeuvre into isolated coves and waterways that larger vessels—or, indeed, four-wheel-drive Land Cruisers—are unable access. Each sunrise brings the promise of an unforgettable adventure, whether hopping on a Zodiac at Koolama Bay to witness the cascading thunder of the 80-m-high, twin King George Falls, or embarking at Swift Bay to scramble over rocky standstone and view the disparate rock-art forms on display at the sacred Wandjina art galleries—some reckoned to be up to 12,000 years old.

Another example of the Kimberley’s ability to propel you back through time.

Prices from $15,500 pp (10 days) and $23,900 pp (17 days); June 9-19, and August 8-25 or August 25- September 11 respectively; silversea.com

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Kelly Slater’s Hawaiian Hideaway Hits the Market for $30 Million

After seven years of ownership, the legendary surfer is selling his beachfront compound on Oahu’s north shore for $20 million.
Published on April 5, 2024

By Wendy Bowman 08/04/2024

Always wanted to live like a surfing legend—specifically, a pro shredder with countless accolades under his board? Now’s your chance, because the picturesque Hawaiian spread that Kelly Slater has owned for the past several years has just popped up for sale on Oahu’s north shore, as was first reported by The Wall Street Journal.

The asking price is an impressive $30.3 million—or around $18.2 million more than the 11-time champ dolled out for the beachfront digs seven years ago, back in spring 2017. Acquired largely for personal reasons—he fondly remembers crashing at a nearby house with teen surfing buddies in the 1980s—Slater has long floated the place on the rental market, once for as much as $121,500 per month.

Sited amid a gated parcel spanning just over a half-acre, alongside one of the most sought-after streets in the Haleiwa area, the property was built in the early 2000s, and offers a main home and pair of guesthouses—for a total of six bedrooms and eight baths sprawled across a little more than 706 sqm of Asian- and Hawaiian-infused living space, all with access to 101 feet of secluded shoreline.

Though interior photos are scarce, previous listings show the primary dwelling is showcased by a soaring living room displaying an open-trussed ceiling, a curving hardwood staircase tucked off to the side and glass doors spilling out to a covered lanai. Other highlights include a formal dining room, media room, and kitchen outfitted with natural wood cabinetry and an expansive island. Two bedrooms include an upstairs primary suite, which boasts an ocean-view balcony, a seating nook, walk-in closet, and bath equipped with dual vanities and a soaking tub.

Outdoors, the garden-laced grounds host a boardwalk spanning a pond, along with an infinity pool and hot tub bordered by a grassy lawn; and topping it all off are the aforementioned ancillary accommodations, which consist of a three-bedroom guesthouse with its own kitchen and living area, plus a one-bedroom apartment resting atop the detached three-car garage. There’s plenty of Polynesian artwork left behind by a previous owner that’s reportedly part of the sale, too.

The 52-year-old Florida native, who told WSJ he is wrapping up what may be his final year as a pro surfer, also operates numerous business ventures ranging from a private surfing ranch to a sustainable footwear brand, and coming soon, a skin care and sunblock line.

In addition to his for-sale compound, Slater and his longtime partner Kalani Miller also maintain a primary residence he calls a “small beach shack” on Hawaii‘s Banzai Pipeline reef break, plus homes in Florida, California and Australia.

The listing is held by Paul Stukin of Deep Blue HI, an affiliate of Christie’s International Real Estate | Southern California.

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