
Meanwhile in Tangier
Morocco’s edgy port city rediscovers its arty groove.
The closest big city to La Fiermontina Ocean is Tangier, which has always stood apart from Morocco’s urban centres. It’s located far in the north, as connected to Europe as it is to Africa. For several decades in the 20th century, it was an international zone, administered by a cluster of countries including Italy and Spain, deeding it an edgy, artsy vibe that lingers today.
There’s plenty of newness that makes it worth a trip, according to Plan-It Morocco, a local agency specialising in luxury travel. “It’s going back to what it was in the 1970s and 1980s, when it was a very hip place to be,” says the firm’s Chloe Zarb, a Scottish expat who lives and works here. “It’s becoming more sassy, there’s so much more excitement and development. [King Mohammed VI] wants to bring the country forward.”

Zarb regularly brings guests to the award-winning Villa Mabrouka, opened by fashion designer Jasper Conran in a villa once owned by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé. Make sure to book a dinner in the romantic, Madison Cox–inspired gazebo, where up to eight people can take a private supper. Waldorf Astoria has announced plans for a property here, and architect Jean-Louis Deniot bought one of the modernist buildings near the waterfront, with plans to convert it into another boutique hotel.
But so much of life in Tangier happens in its vast, private mansions. One standout is Dar Sinclair, the longtime family home of model and socialite Jacquetta Wheeler, who spent much of her childhood here. Plan It Morocco can help you rent the mansion to enjoy its superb views over the water, plus the gardens that cascade down the hill and lead to a huge swimming pool. Book a chef to cook dinner amid the greenery.

While Tangier doesn’t have the surfeit of stores that makes Marrakech so appealing, it is known for small textile and weaving workshops, and for good reason. “There’s baraka, or a blessing, in working with your hands,” says Hadia Temli, a gallerist who grew up here. “Craftsmanship is valued for that reason.”
Don’t miss the three-storey concept store Las Chicas on the road outside the kasbah walls, offering an array of clothing, jewellery and housewares. Fashion designer Gene Meyer and his partner, interior designer Frank de Biasi, were, as Robb Report went to press, set to launch their own store Habibi Burton at the end of August, selling vintage housewares as well as contemporary home goods and clothes made by locals. Or visit Gordon Watson, a British antiques dealer who has split time between London and Tangier for over 30 years and who now lives here full-time. “There’s energy in the air here, something in the atmosphere, which is so charged. There are so many different people coming now,” he says. His home doubles as his gallery, and he’ll receive you in his junglelike garden.
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