Dye For The Cause

Seventy years on from the seminal era of Dean and Brando, denim remains an alluring symbol of sartorial rebellion—sometimes in the unlikeliest of places.

By Brad Nash 26/03/2025

Late last year, with most of its usual crowd away for the holidays, a quiet Wall Street became the setting for one of the unlikeliest sartorial scandals to take place in sport for some time. At its heart was Magnus Carlsen, universally regarded as the greatest chess player of his generation, who abruptly left the World Rapid Chess Championships after falling afoul of the dress codes of the governing body FIDE (the common acronym for its French denomination, Fédération Internationale des Échecs).

Carlsen’s crime? The age-old faux pas of turning up in jeans. The federation asked Carlsen to return to his hotel room and change. The Norwegian refused, instead offering to accept the fine and obey the rules the next day. FIDE remained steadfast. Carlsen, both the sport’s most powerful mind and its most influential voice, simply walked out.

“They can enforce their rules,” Carlsen said in an interview later on. “That’s fine by me. My response is, ‘Fine, then I’m out, fuck you.’”

While Carlsen’s reasons for showing FIDE the figurative V-sign go far beyond his own dress preferences, the last two words of his statement remain indicative of how denim, now widely normalised in all but the most stuffy of settings, has a strange tendency to enter the conversation whenever stories emerge of young people rebelling against aged institutions. As Louisa Thomas of The New Yorker put it in her article on the fiasco: “Jeans aren’t just pants. They’ve been a fuck-you symbol ever since Marlon Brando wore a pair in The Wild One.’

American actor Marlon Brando as biker gang leader Johnny Strabler in ‘The Wild One’. Photo: Silver Screen Collection/Hulton Archive/Getty Images

Denim remains an enduring, cross-generational hallmark of resistance for myriad reasons, but the roots of its appeal remain firmly grounded in the romance of counter-cultural, working-class ideals. The textile originated as a canvas for hardy workwear in the late 19th century but took on a sheen of defiant sexiness as brooding, unruly cowboys traversed the plains in jeans in the Hollywood westerns of the ’20s and ’30s. Brando and Dean enshrined it as the uniform of unruly poster boys in the ’50s. In the decades since, punks, rockers, rappers and emos have all adopted denim as their own—a one-fabric-fits-all badge of protest against the golf club managers, Reaganites and, indeed, chess tournament stooges of the world.

Even so, the 21st century has seen denim re-established as a material worthy of reverence even in the highest echelons of couture fashion. Jeans, trucker jackets and even Canadian tuxedos—once reserved almost exclusively for the smart-casual dominion—have become a red carpet staple and, at times, a talisman of wider shifts in high fashion. Hedi Slimane’s Dior made skinny jeans a uniform garment for noughties cool kids. Drop crotches and biker pants from the likes of Off-White, Amiri and Acne Studios became unofficial grails as streetwear and hip-hop culture took over high fashion in the late 2010s.

Image courtesy of Louis Vuitton

Recent years have seen a return to a more considered mindset in both menswear and womenswear, changing the way we’ve come to appreciate denim once more. Vintage cuts from iconic brands like Ralph Lauren and Levi’s have skyrocketed in value, while communities of raw and selvedge denim collectors continue to shine a light on artisanal manufacturers from the US and Japan.

Rick Owens, Balmain and Acne Studios are but a few major names to have reworked denim into eye-catching gowns in recent years, while naturally, given the event’s Americana theme, the material also featured heavily at the 2022 Met Gala. In a way, these moments represented a counter-cultural statement of their own—a declaration that a textile long pigeonholed by traditional notions of class and convention could still provide a canvas for something beautiful and elevated.

Why, then, does denim remain materia non grata in so many old-school establishments? “Power trippers,” is the simple answer Australian stylist Jeff Lack gives us. “Denim represents the romance of youth—for many of us, in our late teens, they’re the first truly rebellious purchase we make for ourselves.” Giorgio Armani once said “jeans represent democracy in fashion”. It stands to reason, then, that they’ll remain an easy target for those who think, be it in the clubhouse or the White House, that conservatism should prevail.

Of course, times are undeniably changing—even if some are proving undeniably slow on the uptake. Dress codes continue to relax year-on-year as institutions like golf and members’ clubs hunt a new generation of affiliates. Casualwear, once defined by a constant cycle of overnight trends and overconsumption, has homogenised and placed a renewed emphasis on individuality and sustainability. Timeless, durable and trend-resistant garments have taken on a fresh sense of romance as a result, with nondescript, straight-cut jeans now a subtle statement of considered dressing.

Kendrick Lamar performs at the Apple Music Super Bowl LIX Halftime Show at Caesars Superdome 9 February 2025. Photo by Chris Graythen/Getty Images.

Regardless, denim’s position as a sartorial totem of defiance remains unchallenged. An undeniable sense remains that jeans will remain centre stage as the young and the restless rail against the global order’s violent lurch to the right. It’s no coincidence that Kendrick Lamar, taking to the stage in February to deliver a Super Bowl show aimed partly at Trump’s white supremacist vision of America, did so in a pair of flared Celine jeans—proving that whether the battleground is a gridiron or a chess board, no other fabric is up for the fight like denim.

The Denim Edit

Blue two-tone denim jacket $2,850; fendi.com

Navy blue denim jacket with floral motif $3,095; gucci.com

Saint Laurent denim jacket $1,999; mrporter.com

Cassandre overshirt in Trouville beach blue denim $1,500; saintlaurent.com

ADVERTISE WITH US

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Stay Connected

You may also like.

Omega Just Unveiled 9 Watches in Its New Constellation Observatory Collection

The line-up shows up a bevy of metals and colours, too, as well as two new calibres.

By Nicole Hoey 31/03/2026

Omega’s latest watch is in a universe of its own.

The Swiss watchmaker just unveiled its new Constellation Observatory Collection today, the next step in its Constellation lineage and the first two-hand hour and minute timepieces to ever earn Master Chronometer certification. And if you were paying attention to any of the dazzling watches spotted at the Oscars this year, you would’ve caught a glimpse of the new line already: Sinners star Delroy Lindo rocked one of the models on the Academy Awards red carpet, giving us a pre-release preview of the collection.

Developed at Omega’s new Laboratoire de Précision (its chronometer testing lab open to all brands), the collection houses a set of nine 39.4 mm watches. The watches underwent 25 days of scrutiny there, analysed via a new acoustic testing method that recorded every sound emitted from the timepiece to track irregularities, temperature sensitivities, and more in the name of all things precision. (Details such as water resistance and power reserve are also thoroughly examined.) This meticulous process is all in the name of snagging that Master Chronometer label, meaning that the timepiece is highly accurate and surpasses the threshold for ultra-high performance. The Constellation Observatory Collection has now changed the game, though, thanks to its lack of a seconds hand.

A watch from the Constellation Observatory Collection, with the Observatory dome on display. Omega

“Until now, precision certification has required a seconds hand,” Raynald Aeschlimann, president and CEO of OMEGA, said in a press statement. “The development of a new acoustic testing methodology has made that requirement obsolete. It is this breakthrough that has enabled us to present the Constellation Observatory, the first two-hand watch to achieve Master Chronometer certification.”

In addition to notching its place in history, the collection also debuted a new pair of movements: the Calibre 8915 and the Calibre 8914, each perched on a skeletonised rotor base. The former’s Grand Luxe iteration will appear on the 950 Platinum-Gold model in the collection, which offers up that base in 18-karat Sedna Gold alongside a Constellation medallion in 18-karat white gold with an Observatory dome done in white opal enamel surrounded by stars. The second Calibre 8915, the Luxe, will find its home on the other precious-metal models in the line, either made with the brand’s 18-karat Sedna, Moonshine, or Canopus gold seen across the case, the hand-guilloché dial, and, of course, the movement itself. (Lindo chose to rock the Moonshine Gold on Moonshine Gold iteration, priced at approximately $86,000, for Sinners‘s big night at the Oscars.) As for the Calibre 8914, it can be found in the collection’s four steel models.

 

Omega Constellation Observatory Collection
A look at a gold case-back from the collection. Omega

Each model is a callback to myriad design features on past Omega models. That two-hand dial, for one, comes from the 1948 Centenary (the brand’s first chronometer-certified automatic wristwatch), while the pie-pan dial (seen in various blue, green, and golden hues throughout the line) and that Constellation medallion caseback both appear on watches from 1952. The star adorning the space above 6 o’clock also harks back to 1950s timepieces from Omega. And to finish off the look, you can opt for alligator straps in a variety of colours, or perhaps a gold iteration to match the precious-metal models; the brick-like pattern on the 18-karat Moonshine bracelet was also inspired by Omega watches from the ’50s.

We’ll have to keep our eyes peeled for any other Constellation Observatory timepieces (or any other unreleased models from the brand) at the rest of the star-studded events headed our way this year—perhaps the Met Gala?

Stay Connected

Best Combustion Supercar: Ferrari 12Cilindri Spider

A modern classic in the making, combining naturally aspirated power with elegant restraint to deliver performance that feels as refined as it is visceral.

By Vince Jackson 20/04/2026

In a year when carmakers of all persuasions sheepishly extended hyperbolic electric targets, it’s fitting that the monastic puritans of Maranello—who, lest we forget, won’t finally yield to the sin of battery power until October with the Elettrica—opted to make combustion their major power play.

As an uncertain future of AI omnipresence barrels towards us, the 12Cilindri—an analogue, open-topped tribute to Ferrari’s late-’60s/early-’70s grand tourer, the Daytona—represents a defiant fade into the past, a pause for breath, a fleeting return to The Good Times when nascent technology provoked excitement rather than existential dread.

Guiding this automotive nostalgia trip is, as the nomenclature suggests, a naturally aspirated 6.5-litre V12 engine, generating an unceasing wave of power as it sears towards the 9,500 rpm redline with relative nonchalance. That’s because the 12Cilindri is not a mouth-foaming attack-dog. It scales performance heights with the refinement of the finest Italian works of art; its “Bumpy Road” mode facilitates comfy al fresco GT cruising, and even the imperious powerplant is mannerly at most speeds.

For all the yesteryear romance, progressive technologies and engineering, such as a world-class 8-speed transmission, advanced electronic aids and independent four-wheel steering, are baked into the deal. The 12Cilindri’s clean, stark design somehow toggles between retro and modern; and while vaguely polarising, one can’t ignore its magnetic road presence.

In terms of aesthetics, Ferrari describes the 12Cilindri as being “ready for space”; in many ways, a fantasy vehicle that transports users to another dimension is probably what the world needs right now.

The Numbers

Engine: 6.5-litre V12

Power: 610kW

Torque: 678 Nm

Transmission: 8-speed dual-clutch auto

0-100 km/h: 2.95 seconds

Top speed: 340 km/h

Price: From $886,800

Photography by SONDR.
And the Winners Are:

Stay Connected

Inside Loro Piana’s First Sydney Boutique

A first Australian address brings the Italian house’s textile-led approach to retail full circle.

By Horacio Silva 26/03/2026

On the fourth floor of Westfield Sydney, near the Castlereagh and Market Street entrance—in the space formerly occupied by Chanel—Loro Piana has opened its first Australian boutique. It is a significant address change for that corner of the mall, and a meaningful one for the Italian house, which has sourced Australian merino wool for decades but until now had no retail presence here.

The facade is understated—creamy, tactile, more about texture than theatre. Inside, the store unfolds across a single, expansive level divided into distinct men’s and women’s wings. The separation is clear without being heavy-handed: womenswear leads from soft accessories and leather goods into ready-to-wear, while menswear occupies its own assured territory, with tailoring and outerwear given proper breathing room. Footwear (supple loafers, luxurious slides, pared-back sneakers) is particularly strong, and the sunglasses are a quiet standout: mineral-toned frames with a disciplined elegance that feels entirely of the house.

That same restraint carries into the interiors, where the surfaces do much of the talking. Walls are wrapped in the company’s own linen and cashmere; carpets are custom, dense underfoot, softening the acoustics and the pace. Oak and carabottino wood add warmth without fuss; marble accents introduce a cool counterpoint. The effect is a composed space calibrated around material, proportion and restraint.

The Spring 2026 collection now in store underscores that sensibility. Silhouettes are elongated and fluid; cashmere, silk and featherweight merino move in sandy neutrals, creams and muddied earth tones, with flashes of marigold and pale turquoise breaking the calm. Tailoring is softly structured and projects confidence without aggression. Leather goods arrive in buttery skins that feel almost pre-lived, as though time has already worked its magic.

What distinguishes Loro Piana, particularly in a market that has grown noisier by the season, is its refusal to perform luxury in an obvious register. There are no oversized insignias telegraphing allegiance. Instead, the status is encoded in fibre count, in hand-feel, in how a coat hangs from the shoulder. It assumes the wearer knows and, crucially, does not need to announce it.

Sydney’s luxury landscape has matured in recent years; global houses no longer test the waters but commit to them. Yet Loro Piana’s arrival feels different. It is not trend-driven expansion but material logic. For a country whose sheep stations have long contributed to the house’s fabric story, this boutique reads almost as a thank-you note written in cashmere.

 

Photography: Courtesy of Loro Piana.

 

 

Stay Connected

Field Guide

From nubby tweeds to supple shearlings, the season’s most exciting menswear is as richly textured as the forests, mountain and lakes surrounding Switzerland’s Gstaad Palace.

By Robb Report Staff 12/05/2026

Fashion Shoot photographed by Eduardo Miera

Above: Zegna wool and cashmere coat, price upon request; Caruso wool-flannel jacket, $2,615; Tod’s wool and silk turtleneck, price upon request; Dolce & Gabbana wool-tweed trousers, price upon request; Brunello Cucinelli calfskin belt, $1,315; Paul Smith sheepskin gloves, $420.

Fashion Shoot photographed by Eduardo Miera

Above: Caruso wool overcoat, $3,420; Boglioli wool-flannel jacket, $2,305, wool and cashmere sweater, $1,125, and wool-flannel trousers, $1,005; Tod’s calfskin belt, $1,025; Zegna buffalo-leather moccasins, $2,005.

Fashion Shoot photographed by Eduardo Miera

Above: Massimo Alba wool-tweed jacket, $2,315; Moncler Polartec turtleneck, $835; Tod’s suede backpack, $5,230; Alonpi cashmere blanket, $2,805.

Fashion Shoot photographed by Eduardo Miera

Above: Prada suede and shearling coat, $16,705, wool sweater, $3,325, and wool trousers, $3,045.

Fashion Shoot photographed by Eduardo Miera

Above: Loro Piana dark-camel Rain System cashmere jacket, $8,765, greige Rain System cashmere vest, $7,055, greige cashmere crewneck, $4,635, and brown wool trousers, $2,565; Brunello Cucinelli saddle-brown calfskin boots, $2,330.

Fashion Shoot photographed by Eduardo Miera

Above: Aspesi wool and cashmere field shirt, $1,260; Sacai wool trousers, $1,190; Brioni wool and cashmere tie, $420; Loro Piana x Le Chameau rubber boots, $2,240; Paul Smith sheepskin gloves, $420; Alonpi cashmere blanket, $2,805.

Fashion Shoot photographed by Eduardo Miera

Above: Tod’s wool mockneck sweater, $2,615; AMI viscose shirt, $625; Ralph Lauren Purple Label wool-twill trousers, $1,125; Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5960P watch, $68,000, available at Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo, Gstaad Palace; Zegna acetate and metal sunglasses, $645.

Fashion Shoot photographed by Eduardo Miera

Above: Hermès shearling jacket, $33,425, calfskin overshirt, $15,010, cashmere and silk turtleneck, $3,435, and wool-gabardine trousers, $1,630; Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 watch, $21,950.

Fashion Shoot photographed by Eduardo Miera

Above: Ralph Lauren Purple Label brown wool-twill sport coat, $4,245, and trousers, $1,125, cream cotton shirt, $845, and brown wool-flannel tie, $335.

Fashion Shoot photographed by Eduardo Miera

Above: Louis Vuitton wool coat and wool trousers, prices upon request; Aspesi wool and cashmere sweater, $625.

Fashion Shoot photographed by Eduardo Miera

Above: Brunello Cucinelli alpaca, virgin-wool and cashmere cardigan, $7,795, silk and cotton jersey shirt, $1,630, cotton and virgin-wool trousers, $2,270, and calfskin belt, $1,320; Canali cashmere and silk blazer, $5,380; Brioni wool and cashmere tie, $420.

Fashion Shoot photographed by Eduardo Miera

Above: Moncler cream, brown and black mélange carded-wool sweater, $2,030, and brown ski trousers in 2L tech corduroy with RECCO reflector system, $2,765; Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV watch, $57,295.

Model: Oriol Elcacho Miro

Grooming: Cristina Crosarastyle

Editor: Naomi Rougeau

Market and sittings editor: Simone Fantuzzi

Photo director: Irene Opezzo

Photo assistant: Ead Gjergji

Production: Monica Poli/

Assistant: Lorenzo Borboni

Casting: Bronson Vajda

Location: Special thanks to Gstaad Palace

Coldfocus Production

Photographed by Eduardo Miera

Styled by Alex Badia

This article appears in the Autumn issue 2026 of Robb Report Australia New-Zealand. Click here to subscribe.

Stay Connected

The Best Under-the-Radar Wineries in Australia

From Tasmania to Margaret River, these sommelier-approved cellar doors reward those willing to venture beyond the usual маршруits.

By Nastassia Kuznetsova 12/05/2026

In wine, as in travel, the most rewarding experiences are rarely found by following the crowd. They require curiosity, a little effort, and more often than not, the right recommendation.

As luxury travel continues its shift from spectacle to substance, many of Australia’s most compelling cellar doors remain largely undiscovered—known chiefly to sommeliers, bar managers and restaurateurs whose reputations hinge on what makes it into your glass. Ask them which wineries they’d drive past the big names to visit, the producers they seek out for themselves, the bottles they champion without fanfare, and a different map of Australian wineries emerges.

The following vineyards represent the new vanguard of homespun viniculture; the places worth planning a journey around; the cellar doors that justify a deliberate detour.

 

Stargazer Wines, Tasmania

Pastoral outlook at Stargazer.

When asked where he would go if he had just a single recommendation to give, Al Robertson— owner of Hobart’s legendary pocket-sized wine bar Sonny—doesn’t hesitate. “One word,” he says. “Stargazer.”

Run by Samantha Connew, one of the most respected and hard-working winemakers in the country, Stargazer has quietly become one of Tasmania’s most compelling small-batch producers, crafting finely tuned wines that emphasise purity, texture and a strong sense of place. “She makes gorgeous wines,” Robertson adds. “The riesling in particular—limey, mineral and razor-sharp—is perfect with local goat’s curd or seafood.”

There’s also the Rada red, a cult favourite at Sonny. Served lightly chilled, it’s a true sommelier’s wine—bright, savoury and surprisingly versatile, especially with tomato-heavy pasta or dishes rich with cheese.

Opened in late 2025, Stargazer’s bookings-only cellar door is a short 30-minute drive from central Hobart, tucked into the idyllic Coal River Valley, not far from award-winning Tassie icons Pooley and Tolpuddle. Tastings are deliberately intimate—capped at around 12 guests—unfolding beneath vast skies and among rows of chardonnay and pinot noir, the landscape proving as memorable as the wine in your glass.

The region’s accommodation is as compelling as its wine. While the capital and surrounds brim with beautifully curated stays, few rival Saffire Freycinet—the east coast’s all-inclusive masterpiece, consistently crowned among the world’s finest hotels. Perched above spectacular Wineglass Bay, its immersive, nature-led experiences—from private plunge pools to bespoke foraging dinners and oyster-inspired spa rituals—make the two-and-half-hour drive feel entirely worthwhile.

“Tastings are deliberately intimate, unfolding beneath vast skies… the landscape proving as memorable as the wine in your glass.”

 

Glenarty Road, Margaret River, Western Australia

Charcuterie plate and other farm-to-table goodies at Glenarty Road.

It’s impossible to talk about Western Australian wine without mentioning Margaret River—but even within this celebrated region, there are still places that reward those willing to go a little further.

“You’ve got to visit Glenarty Road,” urges Samuel Cocks, bar manager at Sydney’s world-renowned Saint Peter. Their Wildlings Savagnin is the “standout” wine he keeps coming back to, a variety rarely seen in Australia, let alone Margaret River. Textural, savoury and quietly complex, it’s a reminder that this popular region still has room to surprise.

Set on a working farm, Glenarty Road feels deeply connected to its surroundings. Sheep, pigs, cattle and sprawling vegetable gardens all feed into an experience that’s as much about food as it is wine. “Some of the best food I’ve had in WA is served here,” Cocks says, much of it sourced directly from the property. He’s not alone. WA food critics have consistently ranked it among Margaret River’s strongest dining experiences.

Beyond the usual cellar-door format, “Vino in the Vines” unfolds as a guided walk through the vineyard, with up to 10 wines matched to seasonal farm produce, house-made charcuterie and freshly baked bread. It’s immersive, generous and thoughtfully paced; closer to a curated gastronomic experience than a casual tasting.

Located further south along the coast, away from the Yallingup bustle, Glenarty Road demands a longer drive, but it’s one serious food-and-wine travellers deem essential. On the return, retreat to Cape Lodge—Margaret River’s grande dame of luxury digs—a lakeside estate of manicured gardens, private suites and a dining room that has long set the regional standard.

For those wanting to stay closer to Perth, Swan Valley endures as a local staple. Compact, historic, yet quietly evolving, Cocks describes it as, “Probably one of Australia’s hottest regions.” One local pearl is Vino Volta, an experimental, modern producer focusing on Swan Valley hero varietals like chenin blanc and grenache. Its sparkling wines, easy-drinking reds and whites, and decadent fortified verdelho have earned a loyal following among Aussie sommeliers.

 

Krinklewood Estate, Hunter Valley, New South Wales

Scandi-influenced lodge at Krinklewood Estate.

Just over two hours north of Sydney, in the Broke Fordwich sub-region of the Hunter Valley, Krinklewood offers one of the region’s most transportive cellar-door experiences. Family-owned and farmed organically and biodynamically for decades—long before it became a marketing hook—the estate feels worlds away from the busier Pokolbin circuit. Its Provençal-inspired gardens, sun-drenched courtyard, olive groves, fountains and roaming peacocks create an atmosphere that encourages indulgent lingering.

The wines are elegant and restrained: verdelho, semillon, chardonnay and shiraz, all made with a light touch. A trattoria-style kitchen on site turns out simple seasonal plates and cheese boards, designed to complement rather than compete with the wines.

Make a night of it in one of the estate’s Scandi-inspired lodges—minimalist, timber-clad, with outdoor baths under open skies—or check into Tower Lodge in Pokolbin, among the Hunter’s most exclusive retreats. Dinner is best taken at Muse, a two-hatted stalwart that has long anchored the area’s fine-dining scene.

Nearby, Running Horse Wines is worth a stop for something altogether more idiosyncratic. Headed up by former jockey Dave Fromberg, the cellar door is unique in every sense of the word. Rustic and striking, it’s built from six elevated shipping containers overlooking the vineyard. Tastings here are informal, personal and unhurried—more conversation than ceremony—with Fromberg himself often pouring and storytelling in equal measure. The glass bench-top doubles as a showcase, lit from below so that the colours of Dave’s wines—especially the deep, layered tones of his aged shiraz—can be fully admired.

 

Bekkers Wine, McLaren Vale, South Australia

An inter-generational stroll among the vines at Bekkers.

Among serious drinkers, Bekkers has achieved near-mythic status. The tiny, family-run label is the work of respected viticulturist Toby Bekkers and his French-trained winemaker wife Emmanuelle. Together, they focus on refined, fine-wine expressions of grenache and syrah—deliberately resisting the heavier, more obvious styles McLaren Vale is often known for.

Production is ultra-small, often just a few hundred to around a thousand cases a year, with most bottles snapped up via allocation lists or poured at a handful of top-tier restaurants. That makes a visit to their appointment-only cellar door a rare opportunity to experience the wines at the source, guided by the people who make them.

Round out your SA trip with a night at The Louise, located north in the Barossa—a vineyard-encircled retreat that has quietly become one of Australia’s most enduring luxury addresses.

“Provençal-inspired gardens, sun-drenched courtyard, fountains and roaming peacocks create an atmosphere that encourages indulgent lingering.”

 

Wild Dog Winery & Entropy, Gippsland, Victoria

Toby and Emmanuelle Bekkers quality-test their limited-run wine.

Two hours east of Melbourne, the landscape begins to shift. The air cools, the roads narrow, the vineyards are fewer, and more scattered. Gippsland has long existed at the periphery of Victoria’s wine consciousness, but those paying attention know something is changing.

“The Wild Dog Winery just south of Warragul gets my vote,” says Dave Verheul, owner of Melbourne’s Embla and cult vermouth label Saison—a figure whose palate has helped shape the city’s modern wine scene. “It’s home to winemakers like William Downie and Patrick Sullivan, but what Ryan Ponsford is making under the Entropy label is very, very special.”

Set high in the hills, Wild Dog Winery is less a single estate than a quiet epicentre for some of the country’s most thoughtful winemaking. Among them, Ponsford’s Entropy Wines stands apart. His 2024 cabernet is elegant, restrained and evocative of place in a way that feels both unmistakably Australian and entirely its own. Tastings unspool without theatre, the focus squarely on the wine and the landscape that shaped it. “The added bonus,” Verheul notes, “is being able to dine at Hogget Kitchen, one of regional Victoria’s best restaurants.”

For those willing to venture beyond the familiar, Gippsland offers the rare pleasure of discovery in real time, a dominion whose best bottles are still shared more often by word of mouth than by map. Indeed, the most memorable Australian wine experiences share a common thread: they reward the curious over the merely well-travelled. Because in the end, the best wine journeys rarely follow the most direct route. And the memories—the flavours, the landscapes, the stories—are all the richer for it.

This article appears in the Autumn issue 2026 of Robb Report Australia New-Zealand. Click here to subscribe.

Stay Connected