
A New Cartier Exhibition in London Shows How the French House Conquered the World
Hundreds of objects from over a century of jewellery and watch design are now on view at the Victoria & Albert Museum. These are the ones you can’t miss.
Asif Khan, the award-winning architect who designed Cartier’s new exhibition at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum, had an emotional response when trying on La Patiala—one of the necklaces on display. Made for an Indian ruler in 1928, it’s lavishly set with over 960 carats of diamonds. But Khan wasn’t thinking about its worth.
“I was thinking, who would have been alive from my family [when it was made]?” he says. “That their great-grandson would be wearing the jewels of a maharaja—I don’t think anyone would have imagined it.”

The necklace, one of over 350 items on display in the new show, entitled “Cartier,” is presented in a group of pieces worn by various royals. Each of the pieces, which includes a rose-shaped brooch once owned by Princess Margaret and an aquamarine-and-diamond tiara on loan from Princess Anne, is surrounded by a different hue. Khan, who is colorblind, said he chose the rainbow gradient to represent different times of the day. “The light that you see in the background is the light of Windsor at twilight, and in the foreground is the red of Delhi at sunset,” he says.
Forging such an emotional connection between visitors to the show, which opened on April 12, and the items in it wasn’t easy. Each one, selected by Helen Molesworth, the V&A’s senior curator of jewellery, and Rachel Garrahan, was chosen to demonstrate how brothers Louis, Pierre, and Jacques Cartier turned the family business into a globally recognized brand.

From their boutiques and workshops in New York, Paris, and London, the trio helped their father Alfred develop a singular aesthetic that became recognisable and coveted across the globe. In the process, they created a series of house codes that set the standard for what luxury looked like in the 20th century and beyond. (Their work popularised India’s “Tutti Frutti” combination of emeralds, sapphires, and rubies in the west; inspired an enduring love of the panther; and cemented Art Deco as a timeless style.)
“That they are still a household name today has a lot to do with the creative vision they put in place,” Garrahan says. Here, she pinpoints the pieces that exemplify their enduring ethos.
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Courtesy of Patricks









