
10 Overlooked ’90s-Era Breguet Watches to Invest in Now
Compact and complicated, these beautiful precious metal dress watches are still a standout bargain.
Born in Neuchâtel in 1747, Abraham-Louis Breguet completed his watchmaking apprenticeship in Versaille and Paris, establishing his own workshop on the Île de la Cité in 1775. His exceptional abilities quickly manifested themselves in inventions still used today, including the tourbillon, the Breguet overcoil, and the automatic winding mechanism. After fleeing the Revolution, he returned to Paris in 1795 and began work on his souscription (subscription) series of pocket watches. The method by which these were sold—which hinged upon the provision of a down payment—allowed a wider range of customers to afford Breguet’s work and offered his workshops steady cashflow. It is a model that has since been adopted by other modern independent watchmakers, such as F.P. Journe and Kari Voutilainen, for some of their timepieces.
Watchmaker to the French court and a brilliant inventor, Abraham-Louis Breguet passed away in 1823. Considered by many to be the greatest horologist of all time, his legacy is perpetuated by the eponymous firm that bears his name. The company has been owned by the Swatch Group since 1999. Prior to that acquisition, Breguet went through several distinct periods of rebirth and reinvention, one of which is marked by the ownership of the Chaumet family. In the early 1970s, Jacques and Pierre Chaumet, alongside brand director François Bodet, hired watchmaker Daniel Roth to help revive the company’s fortunes. It was during this time period—from the mid-1970s through the late 1980s—that Breguet’s modern aesthetic was solidified: The fluted case bands, distinctive hands, guilloché dials, and Lemania and Frédéric Piguet base movements that characterise much of the firm’s modern production all came to the fore during Roth’s tenure.
Many beloved references were introduced during this time and subsequently updated or iterated upon in the 1990s; other standout references, post-date Roth but predate the Swatch Group acquisition, which purchased the company from Bahrain-founded private equity firm Investcorp. The marriage of classical watchmaking aesthetics—the guillochage and Breguet handset/indices, for example—with smaller wristwatch cases in precious metals is particularly notable. When paired with thin Lemania and Frédéric Piguet base movements, the results are nothing short of breathtaking. And while prices have begun creeping up over the last decade (and may rise further with Sotheby’s upcoming Breguet-dedicated sale), many of these often-complicated pieces still offer tremendous value compared to alternatives from the “Holy Trinity” or high-end independent brands.
While many other firms began the transition to oversized steel sports watches in the mid- to late 1990s, Breguet maintained its faith in small, thin, precious metal dress watches with compelling complications and knockout dials. Drawing upon the legacy of both the company’s founder as well as the taste and horological inclinations of Daniel Roth, these 1990s-era wristwatches are superb examples of thoughtful haute horlogerie. Here are 10 standout examples, but vintage specialists such as Analog/Shift, Wind Vintage, and the major auction houses regularly bring forth superlative pieces in rare configurations that will delight even the most jaded collector.
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