
Chanel Makes its Move
Chess, pixels and play collide in a collection of watches, jewellery and objets that recasts Chanel’s mythology as a game of strategy.
Luxury houses love to harp on about storytelling. Few, however, commit to it as completely as Chanel.
At Watches & Wonders this year, the French maison unveiled Coco Game, a collection of 14 watches, jewellery pieces and objets d’art inspired by the graphic language of gaming. At its centre sits an extraordinary chessboard—part sculpture, part jewellery showcase and part feat of haute horlogerie—in which Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel herself assumes the role of queen.
In a suitably Chanel flourish, the opposing black-and-white queens conceal miniature watches beneath their skirts, which can be removed from the board and worn as pendant necklaces.

The metaphor is hardly subtle. Nor should it be. More than half a century after her death, Chanel remains the house’s most enduring symbol, continually reinterpreted across fashion, fragrance, jewellery and watches. In Coco Game, she is not merely an inspiration but the central player, “the Queen who masters the rules and sets the tempo”, as the house describes her. The collection’s guiding proposition is equally direct: Time to play.
The result is one of the most self-assured watch presentations Chanel has produced in recent years.
That confidence begins with the chessboard itself. Rendered in the house’s familiar black-and-white palette, it transforms one of the world’s oldest strategy games into a Chanel universe populated by the codes Gabrielle Chanel spent a lifetime constructing. Lions, couture mannequins and Place Vendôme columns take the place of traditional chess pieces, while Gabrielle Chanel appears as both black and white queens. The lion assumes the role of king, the couture bust serves as bishop and the Vendôme column stands in for the rook, creating a game board built entirely from the house’s own mythology.
Here, the board becomes a stage upon which Chanel’s iconography is deployed with almost gleeful abandon. It is meticulous, theatrical and entirely unconcerned with restraint. Yet the chessboard is only the opening move.

Created under the direction of Arnaud Chastaingt, director of the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio, the collection explores the visual language of gaming in all its forms, from chess pieces to pixelated graphics. The recurring motifs are the simplest and most Chanel of ingredients: line, geometry, black and white.
Several pieces reinterpret digital imagery through the lens of high jewellery and watchmaking. Pixelated silhouettes appear across dials and pendants. Graphic compositions evoke early video-game aesthetics without ever descending into hokey nostalgia. Like much of Chanel’s best work, the references are contemporary, but the execution is rooted in craftsmanship.

That tension between playfulness and technical rigour has become a defining characteristic of Chanel’s watchmaking concern. For decades, the house’s watches were often viewed through the prism of fashion. Today, that view is increasingly outdated. Since the launch of the J12 in 2000 and the establishment of its manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Chanel has steadily expanded both its technical capabilities and creative ambitions. Ceramic, once an unconventional choice for luxury watches, has become a signature material. Gem-setting has become one of its defining strengths. The annual thematic collections unveiled by the house now function almost as laboratories in which narrative, métiers d’art and watchmaking intersect.

What makes Coco Game especially interesting is how naturally it fits within a broader Chanel tradition.
Gabrielle Chanel always possessed a knack for elevating the seemingly ordinary into something desirable. Costume jewellery became chic. Jersey became elegant. Sporting references became synonymous with modern femininity. In recent years, Chanel’s jewellery collections have revisited the symbols, passions and preoccupations that shaped her life. The house’s Reach for the Stars collection drew on the celestial imagery that fascinated Chanel throughout her life, while Sport explored her embrace of movement, freedom and physical activity. Both transformed aspects of her biography into contemporary objects of desire.

Coco Game follows the same instinct, albeit through a more unexpected lens.
Games, after all, are about rules, strategy and imagination. So, too, is luxury. Chanel understands that a watch can be more than a device for measuring time. It can be a character, a symbol or even a plot device. That philosophy runs throughout this collection. The watches are not simply products; they are pieces within a larger narrative world.
Perhaps that is why the collection feels so assured. Many watch brands arrive at Geneva armed with new calibres, incremental refinements and technical specifications. Chanel has those capabilities when it chooses to deploy them. But Coco Game suggests the house is increasingly comfortable playing a different game altogether.

Rather than competing on engineering alone, Chanel is leaning into something far harder to replicate: the ability to transform its own mythology into objects that collectors genuinely covet.
The chessboard may be the headline act. It is certainly the piece most visitors will remember. Yet the larger story is one of a maison whose watchmaking division continues to grow in confidence, using horology not merely as a technical discipline but as a creative medium.
In Coco Game, time serves as narrative, jewellery as play, and Gabrielle Chanel remains exactly where she has always been: several moves ahead.
This article appears in the Winter 2026 issue of Robb Report Australia & New Zealand. Click here to subscribe.
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