From The Royal Oak To The King Midas, 10 Of Gérald Genta’s Most Iconic Designs

Inarguably one of the greatest—and most prolific—watch designers of all time, Gérald Genta’s creations have stood the test of time.

By Tanisha Angel 06/07/2023

Those with even a passing interest in horology will have seen a Gérald Genta design. The legendary artist and designer is responsible for some of the world’s most covetable timepieces—counting the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus amongst his oeuvre—and is widely credited with saving the Swiss watch industry from the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s.

However, Genta’s body of work extends far beyond the almost unattainable duo of steel sports watches that dominate horological conversations, with the prolific designer having been responsible for a veritable profusion of timepiece designs. According to the Gerald Genta Heritage Association, the Swiss-Italian watchmaker designed over 100,000 watches over the span of his career.

With an unmatched ability to imbue horological designs with a sense of aestheticism, several of Genta’s designs have stood the test of time. A testament to his enduring style is the new IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40; released almost fifty years after Genta’s first Ingenieur SL, it combines the aesthetic codes of the original with contemporary ergonomics. And now, the Gérald Genta brand will be revived under LVMH, with Genta’s wife Evelyne granting the luxury conglomerate access to her late husband’s archives, which contain hundreds of designs that were never produced.

Herewith, the most iconic Gérald Genta designs of all time — plus, some underrated timepieces that deserve a look in.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972)

A seminal timepiece, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak heralded the rise of the luxury steel sports watch category. In the early 1970s, Swiss watch manufacture Audemars Piguet commissioned Genta to design a luxury sports watch — primarily as a last-ditch attempt to turn the tide around following a downtrend in sales due to inexpensive quartz movements being exported from Japan. Characterised by its unconventional screwed-down geometric bezel (said to be inspired by the shape of a diver’s helmet), integrated bracelet, and steel—for the price of gold—construction, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was a sleeper hit.

While its unprecedentedly high price and unusual aesthetics weren’t immediately well-received upon release in 1972, Audemars Piguet leaned into its unconventional price point in its marketing gaff and the Royal Oak quickly became a phenomenon.

Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976)

Credit: Gerald Genta Heritage

Not only did Genta design the timepiece that transformed perceptions of steel, he also conceived its greatest competitor. A commission by Patek Philippe in 1976 led to the creation of the Nautilus. Like the Royal Oak, the Nautilus derives inspiration from the nautical world—this time from the portholes of transatlantic ships—and is named after Captain Nemo’s submarine in Jules Verne’s novel 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. According to the Gérald Genta Heritage Association, Genta sketched the Nautilus in five minutes on a paper napkin in a restaurant.

Defined by its soft-angled bezel, integrated bracelet, and horizontal ribbed dial, the timepiece remained in production for 30 years and is considered one of the most desirable watches of all time to this day.

IWC Ingenieur SL (1976)

Credit: Gerald Genta Heritage

During the same year the Nautilus was released, Gérald Genta was tasked with refreshing the IWC Ingenieur, which first debuted in 1955. Initially taking on a dressier aesthetic, Genta’s revamped Ingenieur SL saw the timepiece forgo its classic round case and tapered lugs for a sporty rounded tonneau steel case with a five-screw bezel and an integrated profile; a design signature of the Swiss-Italian watchmaker.

Reflective of increased interest in Gérald Genta’s designs of late, IWC introduced the 2023 Ingenieur Automatic 40, which adapts the bold aesthetic codes of the Ingenieur SL for a contemporary audience.

Universal Geneve Polerouter (1954)

Credit: Worn & Wound

The first major design in what would become a heady body of work, Genta designed the Universal Geneve Polerouter in 1954 at the age of 23. Universal Geneva approached Genta to design a timepiece to commemorate the historic flight from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, with the first watches given to the cabin crew of the Scandinavian Airlines Systems (SAS) upon landing in LAX. The elegant multi-textured dial and streamlined case of the Universal Geneve Polerouter belie its functionality, with the timepiece equipped with anti-magnetic properties and a chapter ring designed for enhanced legibility in dark conditions.

Omega Constellation (1954)

Initially introduced in the early 1950s, the Omega Constellation was conceived as a dress watch. Stalling sales off the flagship model prompted the luxury Swiss manufacture to commission Genta to devise a fresh take on the line. Genta rid the Constellation of its pie-pan dial and tapered lugs, introducing a rounded C-case in its place; defined by integrated lugs and a tonneau shape, the design was emblematic of the space-age movement that reigned supreme at the time. The redesign also introduced baton indices and stick hands. The Constellation has since been iterated to the point where Genta’s design language is virtually indistinguishable, with the timepiece considered a rarity among the horological community.

Bulgari Bulgari (1977)

Simple yet impactful, the Bulgari Bulgari—first released in 1977—is modelled after an ancient Roman coin on which the effigy of the emperor was encircled by engraved inscriptions. Initially dubbed the ‘Bulgari Roma’ and designed solely for the Italian luxury fashion house’s Rome-based atelier, the name was changed after Bulgari noted its positive reception worldwide. The cylindrical case shape and understated lugs were also influenced by the columns of ancient Roman temples, imbuing the timepiece with a nostalgic feel. Over the past 36 years, the fundamentals of the Bulgari Bulgari have been left relatively unchanged, save for the transition from quartz to mechanical movements and the introduction of larger case sizes to suit contemporary tastes.

Pasha de Cartier (1985)

In the early 1930s, the Pasha of Marrakesh tasked Louis Cartier with creating a gold timepiece equipped with a level of water resistance uncommon to the time. The resultant solution was a watch with a comparatively large case size with a crown cover and a metal grid to protect the dial. Over fifty years later, the French luxury goods house enlisted Genta to create a new timepiece with a sporty (yet still elegant) aesthetic. Standing out from the plethora of rectangles, squares, and ovals in Cartier’s then-current lineup, the Pasha stood out for its large (for the time) 38mm case, Vendôme lugs, the screw-down crown cap complete with cabochon and a retaining chain, and the oversized 3, 6, 9, and 12 numerals on the dial.

Bulgari Octo (2000s)

The Bulgari Octo was released shortly after the Italian jeweller and watchmaker acquired the Gérald Genta brand in 2000. While there’s some contention surrounding whether Genta actually designed the Octo himself, his unmistakable design language is present in the timepiece’s integrated bracelet and the geometric case which juxtaposes rectilinear forms with curvilinear ones by positioning a round bezel on an eight-sided case.

Seiko Credor Locomotive (1979)

While the hexagonal bezel often draws comparisons to Genta’s most famous timepiece, the Seiko Credor Locomotive—designed in 1979—has its origins in locomotives rather than nautics. The angular bezel and integrated bracelet closely resemble that of the Royal Oak, however the Seiko Credor Locomotive subtly sets itself apart through a new shape for the intermediary links and the nature-inspired pattern on the dial.

Rolex King Midas (1964)

Perhaps the most unconventional of Genta’s creations, the Rolex King Midas sees the Swiss-Italian artist apply geometric forms in a new way. Steering away from his signature sporty aesthetic, the asymmetric case of the Rolex King Midas was inspired by the silhouette of a Greek temple. A solid gold timepiece—hence the name—the King Midas was one of the heaviest watches on the market, despite its modest 27mm proportions.

 

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A New Chapter for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Stories’

A special Reverso exhibit arrives in Sydney this week.

By Josh Bozin 08/05/2024

Few watch enthusiasts would be unfamiliar with Jaeger-LeCoultre and its enduring Reverso collection. Since 1931, the Reverso has been celebrated as one of the great dress watches of the 20th century.

In recent years, the watch has gone from strength to strength—in 2023 alone, we received the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, the impressive Duoface Tourbillon, and the slimmer Reverso Tribute Small Seconds—capturing the imagination of casual observers, collectors, and those looking to scale the horological ladder.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

It is also part of the cultural conversation thanks to exceptional branding experiences, such as ‘Reverso Stories’, a travelling experiential trunk show. Jaeger-LeCoultre is again summoning its movable experience to Australia, this time in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. For a limited time, eager fans can glimpse the Reverso collection up close via a multi-sensory exhibition tracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.

Presented in four chapters ( Icon, Style and design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship), the Reverso story will be told through the lens of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expert watchmakers, who combine nine decades of craftsmanship, inventiveness, and design into one interactive experience.

As a bonus, guests will be privy to a large-scale art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang—commissioned by the Maison under its ‘Made of Makers’ programme—and the launch of three exceptional new Reverso timepieces, yet to be revealed. These watches will showcase skills such as enamelling, gold-leaf paillonage, and gem-setting, mastered by the manufacturer’s in-house Métiers Rares (Rare Handcrafts) atelier.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Completing the immersion into the spirit of Art Deco, guests will be able to enjoy a complementary refreshment post-experience at the pop-up Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Café.

‘Reverso Stories’ will be held in Sydney’s Martin Place from 10–19 May 2024. It will be open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (and 5 p.m. on Sundays) and free to the public. Visitors are welcome to book online here or register upon arrival.

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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