A New Must-Read Book On Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak

The heady tome does a deep dive into the history of the ultra-coveted watch.

By Paige Reddinger 15/09/2022

A new definitive tome on Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak is out this month in timing with the coveted watch’s 50th anniversary. Royal Oak: From Iconoclast to Iconwritten by journalist and acting editor-in-chief of Wallpaper magazine, Bill Prince, and published by Assouline, is the first book on the famous AP model in a decade (the last book, mostly a pictorial, was written by Martin K. Wehrli and Heinz Heimann in 2012). And it will be a must-read/must-own for Royal Oak aficionados, watch enthusiasts and overall culture hounds alike.

While the book presents a detailed history, including everything from Gérald Genta’s early designs of the timepiece and interesting information about how its famous tapisserie dial was created, Prince also provides rich context for the historical milestones in art, fashion, architecture and technical innovation that were happening simultaneously in the year the Royal Oak was created. “I think what really attracted me to the writing a book and telling the story of the Royal Oak was, I suppose, partly the frame of its history, ‘72 to the present day,” says Prince. “I’m not quite old enough to have been in the market for a Royal Oak in 1972, but I certainly grew up with all of the influences of the late ‘60s and early ‘70s. So for me, the cultural framework was really important. Telling the story of how the Royal Oak has maintained its centrality in that sort of cultural firmament for 50 years was great fun.”

When asked what surprised him most during his research he eschews any mention of granular details about a movement or nuances about the watch’s design origins and instead points to other groundbreaking designs of the era. “I discovered so much about 1972 itself,” says Prince. “Technics direct drive turntable was first released that year without which you could not have scratching because you needed the solid gears underneath the turntable rather than rubber bands with for this scratch. There were so many serendipitous facts I discovered around the timing of the watch’s launch but also generally the world that the watch came into.” He also points out that it was the same year Yves Saint Laurent put the safari jacket on the map; coincidentally, the Royal Oak’s codename during its inception was “Safari.” Audemars Piguet, of course, was likely not taking cues from the catwalk, but there was clearly a cultural confluence of ideas happening at the time.

The book does, however, provide plenty of juicy details the watch-obsessed crowd will be after. Prince did a deep dive into Genta’s archives thanks to the late designer’s wife, Evelyne Genta, who, in addition to serving as the ambassador for the U.K. in Monaco, is the gatekeeper of over 3,400 of her husband’s drawings in her Georgian townhouse in London. They helped him paint a picture not only of Genta’s legendary watch but also of his overall approach to design. “There’s a very strict architectural line that he always took at the same time as this artistic, almost avant-garde approach that he also allowed himself and there’s also a great technical mastery that he had,” says Prince. “You know, he trained as a jeweller. So, he understood so much about classical and ancient architecture but also the disciplines of contemporary jewellery making, which I think everyone can see is clearly expressed in the bracelet.”

For technical junkies, there is coverage of the inception of the Royal Oak’s 2120 and 2121 calibres as well as original sketches of the bracelet showing the blueprint for its studs with connecting links that taper in size. Prince, who spent decades covering the watch market during his tenure as deputy editor at British GQ, already had years of knowledge on the Royal Oak under his belt but, he says, Audemars Piguet’s head of complications, Michael Friedman, and director of heritage, Sébastian Vivas, also provided a wealth of information. He cites the AP Chronicles on the brand’s website as an excellent resource for those that really want to get downright encyclopedic on the model’s history. “If the book leads [readers] to discovering the rich detail that’s on the AP website around Chronicles, then it’s the job is done, because it’s absolutely fascinating,” says Prince. “I could barely scratch the surface of the knowledge and the information is contained within those documents.”

Extra, Extra! Bill Prince Divluges More Details on the Royal Oak:

Genta’s Archives Contain Never-Before-Seen Designs
“These are, in effect single drawings, they’re not a series of individual blueprints. However, they are individual drawings from which, I’ve been told, designers could easily take measurements and create watches should they wish to. And the level of detailing is extraordinary on them. Each one is an artwork in its own right.” Prince, however, says he does not know what Ms. Genta has in store for them.

The Royal Oak Wasn’t Necessarily a Flop at Debut As the Myth Goes
“There’s a legacy around the original 5402 that it was unsuccessful at launch. It took time to find its market but it also took time to reach its market because this was the first series-produced watch that really ran to a significant scale for Audemars Piguet. They had been making very low volumes of watches and suddenly they had an extant case and bracelet that were sold under the name Royal Oak. And it was a question of really ramping up production for that.”

On Whether or Not the Royal Oak Is Immortal
[In the book, Prince cites a quote from Georges-Henri Meylan, a former executive and CEO of Audemars Piguet from the late ’80s through the early 2000s, in which he calls the Royal Oak “immortal.”]

“I got the sense he was using the term meaning it’s indestructible, rather than it has perpetual life. But it comes back to this incredible sustaining power that the Royal Oak has. How do you account for it? You can account for it in various ways when you talk about the design and the book talks a lot about how it just empirically, and preternaturally fit into each year. It’s uncanny, it’s disruptive, it’s revolutionary.”

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

At last, the original Formula 1 returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the colourful and eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. You could say that the writing was on the wall when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a plethora of vintage models across his Instagram account in the aftermath of Watches & Wonders 2023. In fact, speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair in Geneva, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they do it?

My answer to the baited question, whilst informed (in my opinion), definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels, but here were are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry truly enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, we’ve seen Scuba Fifty Fathoms, we’ve seen John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might just be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There’s 10 new watches in total, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet, and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options a direct nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive specifically to Kith and its global stores; New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific, and are made in an abundance of colours, like the originals. Two are then exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith – this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents and a creamy-taupe, vintage-inspired dial. This particular model arrives on a steel bracelet with an eggshell dial, and will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, across the entirety of the collection, you will find Fieg’s design cues punctuated throughout: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith”, forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan “Just Us”.

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the original form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that compliments the fun and colour-theme of the Formula 1, but all the same drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable plastic quartz watch, but rather reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely, limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we really think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer; many enthusiasts will recall on the Formula 1 as their very first watch.

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and buddying watch fans should be pleased with the result. The collection has been executed extraordinarily well, pondered on for years, and to TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating the proportions, materials and aesthetic of this iconic collection for the modern day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a fully-lumed dial, a distinguishing feature of the original—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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