5 Watch-World Insiders On Their Favourite New Timepieces of 2023

From Parmigiani’s minute repeater to Rolex’s Celebration dial, a group of serious connoisseurs weigh in on the coolest new models.

By Victoria Gomelsky 13/04/2023

If you’re a watch lover who dreams of meeting the most important makers in the high-end watch industry—from chief executives of leading brands to the brightest stars of the independent scene—do your best to emulate Gary Getz.

The collector spent a week in Geneva at the end of last month attending lunches, brunches, coffee dates, dinners, manufacture tours, keynote addresses, and countless watch presentations with fellow members of the NorCal Gang, all timed to the 2023 edition of Watches and Wonders.

From a kickoff dinner with Kari Voutilainen on his first Saturday in town to a visit to the Audemars Piguet Museum in Le Brassus on his final full day in Switzerland, Getz and friends left no watchmaking stone unturned (they even squeezed in a visit with legend Philippe Dufour).

We couldn’t resist asking Getz for his Geneva 2023 greatest hits so we could compare notes with the four other watch industry insiders with whom we spoke. There seemed to be some consensus among our group of five about the week’s best watch introductions. The list included Urwerk’s new UR-102 Reloaded, Parmigiani’s minimalist Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante, the pricey split-second chronograph from Petermann-Bédat and, of course, Rolex, whose colourful new Oyster Perpetual 41 with the “Celebration dial,” not to mention its off-catalog sibling, the Puzzle dial, made an impression on just about everyone.

“It was kind of like grandpa getting on the dance floor and we were all cheering for him,” William Massena, founder of the independent brand Massena LAB, said of the Rolex novelties. “It really shows you they’re trying to break out of the mould, letting their hair down. The end result is maybe a promise of more cool things to come. That was, for me the big takeaway: Rolex is doing something different.”

Below, we share unfiltered feedback from all the watch events in Geneva by way of the industry’s most astute observers.

Andrew Block, President and CEO of Second Time Partners

MB&F M.A.D House
MB&F M.A.D HouseMB&F

“I was very impressed by the M.A.D. House [MB&F’s new atelier]. We had an afternoon and dinner with [MB&F founder] Max Büsser. He continues to be my favorite watchmaker and brand. He’s real—about a real as they get. They built an amazing atelier and they have an archive of their creations. Now there’s the chance to display them. Max has a trophy case where all his GPHG trophies are and it shows. The Perpetual in steel is unbelievable.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante

“I thought Parmigiani’s collection was focused, narrow and impressive. They have moved away from so many different references. I think Ulysse Nardin has done a great job of building around the Freak. DLC and carbon were everywhere. Even Rolex having a titanium Yacht-Master—that’s awesome.

IWC Ingenieur
IWC Ingenieur

“I was impressed by the fact that a lot of brands did not flood the market with new introductions. There was a lot of revisiting the past. A lot of redesigns, like the IWC Ingenieur. It used to be a clunky watch, but now it looks like a little Royal Oak.”

Asher Rapkin, Cofounder of Collective Horology

“The watch that stood out to me was the UR-102 Reloaded. I’m an unabashed fanboy of Urwerk. I have an Urwerk pen—I’m that level of nerd. This one is special. Not only does it go back to the origins of the brand, but it is also the most accessible of their watches, with 250 pieces—that’s a lot for Urwerk. I’m madly in love with the black DLC version of that watch.

Chopard L.U.C 1860
Chopard L.U.C 1860

“On the other side of the spectrum, I was in love with some of the Chopard references this year. The L.U.C 1860—this particular execution was a stunner and accompanied by a salmon dial. It’s elegance personified.

“Aside from that, two other pieces stood out: Zenith’s new Pilot flyback chronograph is just badass, and the steel version incorporates a hint of the rainbow El Primero, a cult classic. Seeing that—wink wink—come into the revised Pilot line was phenomenal. And the new Defy Skyline on black ceramic bracelet comes in under $15,000. It’s an incredible watch at a ludicrous price.

Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback
Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback

“One thing I saw which I found a little confounding: Some brands’ pricing is just getting absurd. I worry about this. Not only does it take an already expensive art form and make it more exclusive, but when you start asking six figures for watches and that wasn’t your brand’s bread and butter a few years ago, it’s very difficult for a client not to feel cynical about it. Like when you start seeing things doubling in price for a different form factor. Pricing in general is a head scratcher and a bit of a nerve in the community.

Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Texalium Carbon
Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Texalium Carbon

“I continue to be impressed by Hublot’s material innovation. A lot of brands are trying to double down on what makes them great. There’s not a lot of risk-taking but brands are trying to double down on who they are. Oris absolutely, between the ProPilot with Kermit, which demonstrates they don’t take themselves so seriously, while at the same time releasing a stupendous watch in the ProPilot Altimeter.

Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition
Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition

“You could say the exact same thing about 98% of the Rolex releases. Rolex is at its best when you look at the titanium Yacht-Master and the yellow gold GMT-Master on Jubilee bracelet with a smoked bezel—it’s just beautiful. I love that Rolex is starting to take more risk in the last five years.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual "Celebration Dial"
Rolex Oyster Perpetual “Celebration Dial”

“The Celebration dial I’d buy personally and while the Puzzle watch isn’t for me, I can’t think of any other time Rolex has done a concept-driven watch. That’s really cool. If you walk into a giant multi-brand boutique and it’s a yawn fest, you cannot get mad at Rolex for trying to change that.”

William Massena, Founder of Massena LAB

Chopard Alpine Eagle
Chopard Alpine Eagle

“At Palexpo, I liked the Chopard stainless steel re-edition of the Alpine Eagle with the salmon dial. I thought IWC was too little, too late and very expensive. I ordered the Chopard for myself, but there was nothing else I wanted to buy. I thought Vacheron was very bland. And Lange was underwhelming at best and very expensive. Otherwise, I’m drawing a blank.

Petermann-Bédat Monopusher Split-Second Chronograph Ref. 1967
Petermann-Bédat Monopusher Split-Second Chronograph Ref. 1967

“Outside of the fair, I saw Petermann-Bédat. Those kids, they’re young—like in their 30s—and they created a watch four years ago called the Ref. 1967 and it’s a great watch. Now they came up with a new one, a split chronograph, for a quarter million dollars. I thought it was the watch of the show, honestly, and I know I’m not alone.

“Another brand I really liked was the exact opposite of Petermann-Bédat: Argon Watches. They were showing at the Beau Rivage. It’s made by two kids in their 20s. One is Guillaume Laidet, who restarted Nivada Grenchen. He partnered with Theo Auffret. They came together and made a joint venture called Argon Watches. It’s kind of like De Bethune meets Urwerk meets a little bit MB&F, and the watch is $1,800.

“They showed the prototype. They want to see if they get some orders. It’s going to launch on Kickstarter, maybe sometime in May. It’s kind of a spaceship design with a cool way of presenting time, fresh and new.”

Urwerk UR-102 Reloaded
Urwerk UR-102 Reloaded

“I like Urwerk. They kind of went back to the first watch they made 26 years ago and relaunched it. Not a re-edition, more like an improved watch. It’s called the 102. It’s kind of a return to the source. Something a new generation of collectors may not be familiar with, and it’s cheap for an Urwerk: 25 grand. I ordered it. That’s basically what I saw that I liked.”

Paul Altieri, Founder and CEO of Bob’s Watches

Rolex Yacht-Master in Titanium
Rolex Yacht-Master in Titanium

“I think Rolex did a heck of a job. The titanium Yacht-Master was a showstopper. There’s going to be a 20-year waiting list to get one of those. I’m joking, but who knows how long it will take to get your hands on those at retail? We usually see them trickle in in late summer, but that one might take a little longer.

“Always a focus for us is what gets discontinued as opposed to what they launch. Rolex discontinued the Milgauss. It’s been around since the 1950s. That puts a little frenzy in the marketplace because you can’t get them anywhere. Secondhand prices typically jump 10 to 20 percent. And also the Daytona. They didn’t change it much—it’s hard to mess with perfection—but they retired the 116500 and there’s a lot of talk about that.

Rolex Day-Date 36 Puzzle
Rolex Day-Date 36 Puzzle

“There’s a lot of excitement around the Celebration dial, the Puzzle dial. Why would Rolex come out with these fancy-colored dials? The gold GMT—I don’t want to say it’s a bore, but the others are too interesting. Even the Perpetual 1908 is a handsome watch. The skeleton back on the Daytona, a lot of people are talking about that.”

 

Gary Getz, Northern California-based collector

“The sleeper watch that I liked was the Parmigiani Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante. It’s a usable complication and it’s easy to operate. I thought it was super, super clever. That was for me a real hit. And a watch I would potentially buy with my own money.

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

“I did also very much like the Lange Odysseus chronograph, a more mainstream choice. Like the original Odysseus, it’s obviously a Lange, and also, it’s an Odysseus. They could have taken the movement and slapped it into a sport case, but they kept the day date on the left and right of the dial and added a different kind of chronograph on top of it. It’s a bigger watch so it’s thicker but they also made it a bit wider so the proportions are still very good and it looks good on the wrist. The black dial is very much to my taste.

“The Petermann-Bédat rattrapante chronograph is just fantastic, and they’re really good guys. They started together at Lange before they went off on their own. And the watch is much better than the renderings. I have their first watch. I’m a fan.

Sylvain Pinaud Origine
Sylvain Pinaud Origine

“Sylvain Pinaud’s watch, the Origine, is much more beautiful in person. He won the innovation prize at the GPHG last fall. I almost bought it on the spot.

“In terms of surprises, I was somewhat surprised at the general spirit of optimism at the show. The world’s going to hell, there are wars and the stock market is down, but I talked to a number of dealers, brands and makers, and business seems to be pretty good. Outside the show, the emergence of all these young makers doing spectacular work. This will absolutely be seen as a golden age of watchmaking and we saw that.”

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A New Chapter for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Stories’

A special Reverso exhibit arrives in Sydney this week.

By Josh Bozin 08/05/2024

Few watch enthusiasts would be unfamiliar with Jaeger-LeCoultre and its enduring Reverso collection. Since 1931, the Reverso has been celebrated as one of the great dress watches of the 20th century.

In recent years, the watch has gone from strength to strength—in 2023 alone, we received the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, the impressive Duoface Tourbillon, and the slimmer Reverso Tribute Small Seconds—capturing the imagination of casual observers, collectors, and those looking to scale the horological ladder.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

It is also part of the cultural conversation thanks to exceptional branding experiences, such as ‘Reverso Stories’, a travelling experiential trunk show. Jaeger-LeCoultre is again summoning its movable experience to Australia, this time in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. For a limited time, eager fans can glimpse the Reverso collection up close via a multi-sensory exhibition tracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.

Presented in four chapters ( Icon, Style and design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship), the Reverso story will be told through the lens of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expert watchmakers, who combine nine decades of craftsmanship, inventiveness, and design into one interactive experience.

As a bonus, guests will be privy to a large-scale art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang—commissioned by the Maison under its ‘Made of Makers’ programme—and the launch of three exceptional new Reverso timepieces, yet to be revealed. These watches will showcase skills such as enamelling, gold-leaf paillonage, and gem-setting, mastered by the manufacturer’s in-house Métiers Rares (Rare Handcrafts) atelier.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Completing the immersion into the spirit of Art Deco, guests will be able to enjoy a complementary refreshment post-experience at the pop-up Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Café.

‘Reverso Stories’ will be held in Sydney’s Martin Place from 10–19 May 2024. It will be open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (and 5 p.m. on Sundays) and free to the public. Visitors are welcome to book online here or register upon arrival.

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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