10 Style Lessons We Learnt At Pitti Uomo 2023

The recent bi-annual gathering in Italy shone a renewed and bright light on ‘dressing well’.

By Aleks Cvetkovic 25/01/2023

Recently Florence hosted its bi-annual menswear gathering, Pitti Uomo, which preceded the European fashion weeks and ushered in a solid fortnight of collective preening as style-obsessed men gathered from around the globe, usually for business but increasingly in the hope of being papped by street-style photographers. Veteran snapper Jamie Ferguson was on-hand to capture some of the sharpest looks to be seen.

Pitti Uomo is ostensibly a trade fair, where international brands gather for a few days to display their wares and take orders for the year ahead, as fashion editors mingle and discover new labels. But, it’s also a useful barometer for what ‘real men’ are wearing as Pitti tends to attract reporters, buyers and manufacturers, who live and breathe menswear, but are less engaged with high fashion.

It isn’t really the place for trend-spotting, then, although you’ll see a few clear themes in Ferguson’s photography. Rather, Pitti is an opportunity to observe and reflect on how well-dressed men are carrying themselves, and what kind of clothes are speaking to them. Here are some of the things we learned during Robb Report’s flying visit.

The ‘70s Are Still In

Pitti Uomo 2023 attendee in leather trench
Jamie Ferguson

This outfit has an unmistakable whiff of the 1970s about it, but given the decade has been influencing menswear (particularly tailoring) for the last few years, that’s no bad thing. The vintage tan textured-leather coat and suede quilted gilet look sleek together, complementing rather than contrasting, making two statement pieces that bit easier to wear. The straight, wide-but-not-too-wide pants add a sense of swagger, and in light tan, harmonise with the rest of the rig. “I like seeing something a bit more directional at Pitti,” Ferguson says of this look. “A long coat and gilet are both menswear staples, but it’s interesting to see a guy dressing like this with leather and suede, rather than tweed and flannel.”

Beige Ain’t Boring

Brunello Cucinelli attends Pitti Uomo 2023
Jamie Ferguson

Brunello Cucinelli can always be relied upon to provide new and interesting takes on layering, and here signor Brunello’s chic ensemble plays on pale neutrals. Off-white needlecords sit with a dove grey, almost oatmeal sport coat with mottled brown buttons that pick up his biscuit-coloured gilet. Beneath, the white shirt reflects the pants. True to form, this ensemble is all about subtle tonal shifts between trouser, jacket and gilet.

 

You Need a Duffle Coat Next Autumn

Pitti Uomo 2023 attendee in a duffel coat
Jamie Ferguson

Duffles were abundant. The coat has been around since the mid-15th century, but today it’s most often associated with the British Royal Navy. With its coarse melton-wool cloth, unlined construction, hood and toggled front, it was standard issue for sailors during the First and Second World Wars. At Pitti, duffle coats were layered over relaxed tailoring, or used to give casual outfits a down-to-earth aesthetic. This earthy brown number looks great paired with a plaid overshirt and chunky rolled-up jeans.

Playing With Texture Never Fails

Pitti Uomo 2023 attendee wearing multiple textures
Jamie Ferguson

To prove the point, here’s another duffel. What’s interesting about this look, though, is the focused colour palette. Really, there is just mid-grey, tan and chocolate brown on show here, but they’re brought to life with a healthy dose of texture. The melton coat sits over a flecked tweed suit—contrasting the matte outerwear with mottled textures beneath. Both these pieces are lifted with a suitably hairy Shetland sweater, featuring tones that tie into both the coat, the beret and suede shoes. In darker colours, this outfit would look dowdy, but our man here has got his shades just right.

Keep It Casual (Sort of)

Pitti Uomo 2023 attendee in casual apparel
Jamie Ferguson

Wearing casual jackets over suiting is an age-old Pitti Uomo trope, but accessories designer Max Poglia, seen here on the left with designer and vintage expert Alessandro Squarzi of Fortela, has perfected the formula. “You see looks like this all the time,” explains Ferguson. “Usually, the guy will overdo it—he’d be wearing that coat, and then have a tie, a cowboy hat and a poncho too. I love Max’s restraint here. It’s just a nice suit, western shirt and an awesome vintage coat over the top.” As a side note, pale-blue denim and chambray western shirts seemed as popular as ever at Pitti, with good reason—they’ll go with almost anything.

Less Is More

Pitti Uomo 2023 attendee in eyewear
Jamie Ferguson

With its navy-on-navy layering and subtle cream shirt, this outfit says a lot—but doesn’t shout. “This image epitomizes what I like about menswear, right now,” Ferguson explains. “I rate the classicism of the button-down shirt and tie. I like that he’s in a well-cut double-breasted jacket, with a little bit of interest in the brooch (a boutonniere or pocket square would be too much), but then he’s layered a casual coat over the top. Everything about this is just quietly sophisticated.”

 

Go Big or Go Home

Pitti Uomo 2023 attendee in jacket with leather accents
Jamie Ferguson

Oversizing is a high-fashion trend that’s creeping into mainstream menswear—jackets are getting bigger and more generous, and so too pant widths. This character got his oversized proportions just right. “He was a small guy, but I love how he’s played around with larger proportions. His outfit didn’t swallow him, or make him look short,” says Ferguson. “It’s hard to experiment with proportions when you have a smaller frame, but he nailed it.”

Statement Prints Have a Place

Pitti Uomo 2023 attendee in a statement knit
Jamie Ferguson

It takes strength of character to rock an overcoat like this. This guy’s commitment to Navajo print is impressive. So too are the coat’s details. It looks to be a polo coat, with its belt, patch-and-flap pockets, cuffed sleeves and popped collar. The precise pattern matching across the coat’s back-seam and through the collar are signs that this was a serious investment piece. Beyond its obvious wow factor, the colours are interesting, too. Chocolate, caramel and beige serve as reminders than tonal brown style is here to stay, while crimson seems to be a popular accent shade right now.

It’s Time to Buy a ‘Lunch Suit’

Pitti Uomo 2023 attendees in suits
Jamie Ferguson

It’s no great secret that men’s tailoring has been gently morphing—not so much in its silhouette or proportions, but in its sensibility. No longer the preserve of formal dressing, more and more stylish men are investing in casual suits as a lifestyle choice—to wear to smart events, gallery openings and dinners out. British tailor George Marsh, of Speciale, coined the phrase “lunch suits” to describe the relaxed, dressed-down two-pieces he likes to make for his clients, and this corduroy number from J.Mueser is a good example. Chase Winfrey wears it with a breezy attitude—popped collar and all. The Barbour Gamefair jacket is vintage, and its longer length makes it a great choice to layer over tailoring.

Functionality Is Everything

Pitti Uomo 2023 attendee in functional gear
Jamie Ferguson

“He has really leaned into his practical, military, kind-of ‘gorpcore’ aesthetic,” Ferguson says of fellow photographer, Robert Spangle, who served in the Recon Marines in a previous life (he also trained as a tailor on Savile Row). “The amount of straps, buckles, zips and clips in this picture looks crazy, but when you see Rob in action, you realize it all has a purpose and works.” Spangle came straight to Pitti from Ukraine, and arrived wearing clothes that he’d been wearing in the guise of war photographer. “His outfit reminded me that menswear has to fulfill its function first and foremost,” Ferguson adds. “Rob makes super-functional clothes look incredibly stylish. This look was eye-catching in a sea of tailoring, but felt very true to him, which is something we should all aim for when we get dressed.”

 

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One of Hollywood’s Favorite Bespoke Tailors Is Making His First Ready-to-Wear Line

Leonard Logsdail, who’s dressed everyone from Denzel Washington to Robert De Niro, is finally going off the rack.
Published on January 18, 2025

By Caroline Reilly 24/01/2025

When Hollywood’s best-dressed men need suits—to wear on-screen or off—they call Leonard Logsdail. The English-born, New York–based bespoke tailor had already cultivated an enviable legacy by the time he dressed Robert de Niro in 2006’s The Good Shepherd.

In 1971, after graduating from what is now the London College of Fashion, he became the youngest person to open his own store on Savile Row. He set up shop in Manhattan 20 years later and has since dressed everyone from Al Pacino to Hugh Jackman. A lengthy list of devoted clients suggests the long lead time for one of his $15,000 rigs is worth it.

If you like his strong-shouldered look but want to skip making the dozens of decisions bespoke commissions require, you’re in luck. This year, Logsdail will begin offering a line of ready-to-wear jackets, available for purchase directly via his website.

“It’s an idea that’s been percolating for years,” Logsdail tells Robb Report. The result of his ruminations is timeless and essential: a two-button jacket with a double vent, using the same pattern he has employed countless times to give actors such as Denzel Washington (American Gangster) and Michael Douglas (Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps) a commanding on-screen presence. It’s all about the shape, he says of the jacket’s leading-man look. There will be “a little bit of waisting,” so it flatters guys of all sizes.

Leonard Logsdail created the suits for Denzel Washington in American Gangster

Fabric options include a classic navy from the same Vitale Barberis Canonico textiles Logsdail uses in his bespoke garments; beautiful tweeds made at the Lovat Mill in Hawick, Scotland (the best tweeds out there, in his opinion); and a solid-blue Japanese seersucker. In a nod to his ancestry, he’ll use an 1888 painting by distant relative William Logsdail, St Martin-in-the-Fields, for the lining.

Leonard Logsdail created the suits for Leonardo DiCaprio in the Wolf of Wall Street.

The choice underscores that the venture is as much personal as it is professional. The jackets, priced under $2,000, will help him reach a wider audience. But his business is a family affair: Two of Logsdail’s sons and one of his daughters help run it, handling everything from marketing to web design. One lesson he hopes to pass on with his uncomplicated, refined approach? “Fashion goes out of style,” he says. “But style does not go out of fashion.”

Leonard Logsdail

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Forget a Bow Tie. Here Are 3 Black-Tie Accessories to Rock Instead

Stylist Tom Stubbs on ditching the bow tie this festive season—and what to wear alternatively.

By Tom Stubbs 21/01/2025

Black tie, that essential marker of an increasingly rarefied ceremonial style, is inspiring. Nothing coaxes men into upping the sartorial ante quite like reading those words on an invitation. I say amen to raising the bar, but I can’t bear wearing a traditional bow tie—and haven’t done so for over a decade.

Around the turn of the millennium, I was enthusiastically dress-code obedient, but two unstoppable forces put me off: Fashion moved on, and I got old. Where abiding by hallowed traditions once felt exalted, it suddenly began to seem restrictive and stuffy. And while it was extraordinary to be a bow-tied 30-something, in my 40s, the convention made me feel like a pompous, conservative square. Now, menswear has changed so much that bow ties register as pedestrian garb better suited to waiters than to revellers.

Fortunately, there are several black-tie alternatives that excite and inspire me now that I’m well into my 50s—many espoused by stylish guys on the red carpet and innovative designers in London, Paris, Florence, and Milan. And though I might take a bow on nonconformism as I step into my 60s, I still plan to steer clear of the bow tie, that ultimate symbol of gentlemanly customs, for as long as I can. Here’s what I’m replacing it with.

Form and Function

I got excited seeing Lemaire’s slim metallic modernised bolo ties in the house’s fall 2024 show. A favourite of men as varied as Johnny Cash, Bruce Springsteen, and Snoop Dogg, the bolo is perhaps best remembered as the chosen neckwear of John Travolta’s surly hit man, Vincent, in Pulp Fiction. Originally, Native American tribes including the Zuni, Hopi, and Navajo used these accessories used to fasten bandannas with plaited-leather cords. High-end versions double as a bit of jewellery, with silver slides set with turquoise and often engraved with animal motifs, including buffalo skulls and eagles. Contemporary takes abound, but vintage sleuthing can turn up some particularly beguiling options.

From left to right: Lemaire’s bolo on the runway; Bruce Springsteen ditching the bow tie in 1988; Lemaire’s silver bolo-tie necklace, $640. Getty Images/Courtesy of Lemaire

Gambling Man

A gambler from London’s La Bowtique, about $516 Courtesy of La Bowtique

Varying in size, flounce, and attitude, ribbon ties—also called gambler or Kentucky neckties—have long been a legitimate black-tie alternative. Actor Cillian Murphy has worn Saint Laurent’s take to various award shows, looking stand-alone chic and authentically cool. They have a distinct Western energy—Kirk Douglas donned one as Doc Holliday in Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, as did Robert Vaughan in The Magnificent Seven. But they’re as much rock star as they are gunslinger: The late Johnny Thunders of the New York Dolls and Bauhaus front man Peter Murphy (style role models of mine) also wore them with panache. Take a note from the runway and wear them with a pair of boots—cowboy, Chelsea, or with a Cuban heel—to really step away from the standard.

Fit to Be Tied

From left to right: Lemaire’s bolo on the runway; Bruce Springsteen ditching the bow tie in 1988; Lemaire’s silver bolo-tie necklace, $1024.
Getty Images/Courtesy of Lemaire

If you want to give yourself some breathing room, consider scarves and neckerchiefs. This fall, Tom Ford proposed a louche take on evening style, using black, slim-plaited, or delicately sequined scarves whose long tassels provocatively dangle at the hips. For maximum effect, the brand styled them with open satin shirts, recalling rockers Mick Jagger and Rod Stewart. London’s La Bowtique also does beautiful outsize bows. On a smaller scale, the Twilly—a short silk scarf pioneered by Hermès—works in much the same manner. The French maison makes gorgeous options with angled ends for extra verve, whether hanging loose or more discreetly knotted.

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Show Stoppers

The Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance—a beauty pageant for priceless classic cars—returns for another instalment at the city’s most intriguing, and unlikeliest, venue.

By Vince Jackson 15/01/2025

The logic behind staging a prestige automobile show on an island may, at face value, seem warped—history tells us that cars and water do not play nicely. The rationale twists further when said piece of land is a former shipyard that is, aesthetically, more workhorse ute than classic Ferrari. 

Scratch beneath the surface, however, and the decision to plant the Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance on Cockatoo Island for the second year running begins to make locational sense: the steel arch of the emblematic bridge acting as photogenic backcloth; the UNESCO World Heritage site’s previous guises as 19th-century penal colony and eminent boat-building facility fleshing the show’s historical bones; the theatre of watching collectors delicately coaxing their four-wheeled artworks off a rusty roll-on/roll-off barge in the islet’s wharf before showtime. (After all, if owning a car in this stratosphere isn’t about projecting drama, then what’s the point?) 

Throw in an endless endowment of free Champagne for guests and VIP transport from the mainland via superyacht, and it barely matters that the three-day jamboree is, in the words of founder and curator James Nicholls, “a logistical nightmare”.

“People love the energy, the adventure” says the Anglo-Italian, a broadcaster, writer and photographer whose extensive resume includes various stints as a concours judge across the world. “There’s a great contrast between the luxurious motor cars and the industrial environment. The Turbine Shop [a timeworn, hanger-like space used to display the vehicles] is where ocean-going liners and propellers were built. People interested in cars are also interested in that kind of thing but it’s just a backdrop. Cars are the main focal point.”

The concours d’elegance concept (“concours” means “competition” in French) can be traced back to 17th-century Paris, when aristocrats would flaunt horse-drawn carriages in local parks during summer months. Animals eventually gave way to automobiles, and the gatherings mutated into more organised contests in which these new-fangled contraptions were, in somewhat prescient fashion, judged solely on the appearance. The trend spread throughout European high society, before reaching America in 1950 with an inaugural pageant at Pebble Beach, California—a concours which has since evolved into a behemoth of the species, now billing itself as “the world’s most prestigious car show” and drawing 214 vehicles and spectators in the low five figures at the last annual meeting. Other concours are thriving globally, from spectacles in Lake Como in Italy (the longest running event, launched in 1929) to Udaipur in India. Vanity, it seems, remains in vogue.

Among this storied company, Sydney’s interpretation is playing catch-up. But Nicholls insists the local variant—launched in 2019, having occupied three other citywide locations—has no intention of locking horns with competitors. Not numerically, at least. 

“In 2024, we had 500 people over the three days; this year we’ll aim for 750. But we’re never going to become a 20,000-people show,” he says. “We want it to be bespoke and beautiful, so people don’t have to queue for a glass of Champagne. You can talk to the car owners, and everyone feels like a VIP.” The overarching aim is to become a “destination event” on the socialite calendar, on par with the Melbourne Cup or the Australian Grand Prix.

While keen to keep paying visitors guessing, Nicholls offers Robb Report a sneak peek into some of the 44 objets booked to occupy the coarse, exposed-brick viewing hall, ranging from turn-of-the-century rarities to modern-day exotics: a 1905 Eugène Brillié 20/24 HP Coupé Chauffeur, believed to be the only one of its ilk left; a 1955 Porsche Speedster 356 “Pre A”, examples of which are valued in excess of $750,000; a Lamborghini Miura 3400, a model famed for its starring role in the opening sequence to 1969’s The Italian Job movie; a 2021 Audi R8 Spyder, an iteration that is no longer being produced and thus quietly accruing kudos.

Up to seven “classes” will be open, including categories solely for Porsche Speedsters and pre-war Australian coachbuilt cars. Two 1930s Bugattis are slated for appearance, one of which is, as this article is being written, on a boat somewhere, on its way to Australia. A panel of seven judges, led by the first ever female concours head assessor, who also adjudicated in 2024, will select the overall “Best in Show” winner—scored last time out by a 1964 Ferrari 250 LM, a model line with a $24 million price tag attached. And in a progressive play designed to lure the oil-shunning generation, an “electric elegance” section will debut. Nicholls estimates the combined value of all this precious metal at around $80 million.

While it would provoke an illicit thrill to discover that frenzied super-collectors were slyly puncturing rivals’ tyres or keying priceless bodywork—skulduggery has plagued other pageants, from dog show Crufts (canine poisoning) to Miss World (rigging allegations)—the entrants are, in keeping with the show’s refined, English-garden-party profile—a gentlemanly bunch. To a point. “They like meeting up, the community that’s here, but they do get competitive,” says Mark Ussher, the Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance managing director, and on-the-ground organiser. “They care about their cars but they’re investors as well as collectors. If they win a concours anywhere around the world it adds value to the car.”

Which makes it doubly important that, surrounded by all that deep Harbour water, everyone remembers to put their handbrake on.

The Sydney Harbour Concours D’Elegance runs from February 28th-March 2nd 2025; sydneyharbourconcours.com.au

Book tickets now and take benefit from the RR 15% discount code: ROBB15

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Jannik Sinner Is the First Tennis Player to Take a Luxury Bag Onto Wimbledon’s Centre Court

The 23-year-old Italian flaunted a custom Gucci duffle bag on center court.

By Rachel Cormack 21/01/2025

Jannik Sinner aced the style game at last year’s Wimbledon Championships.

The Italian tennis star turned up to his match against Juan Manuel Cerundolo with a custom Gucci duffel bag on his shoulder. It marks the first time a designer bag has been carried onto centre court in the history of the prestigious, centuries-old tennis tournament, as reported by Women’s Wear Daily.

The duffel, which Sinner describes as a “timeless classic,” showcases the house’s signature beige and ebony colorway, the iconic GG monogram, and a contrasting green and red web stripe. It also features the athlete’s initials near the straps. Ironically, the rather traditional design has called into question a 150-year tradition.

“For sure this will create a conversation,” Sinner told WWD before defeating Cerundolo in straight sets. “Bringing sport and luxury fashion together in this way is something that’s never been done before and I feel extremely proud to be a part of it. I hope people will love it as much as I do.”

Wimbledon’s dress code is extremely strict: Players have been required to wear white at the event since 1877, with not even off-white or cream permitted on the court. Tennis whites were originally instated as it was believed the ensemble showed less sweat, as reported by Time. The tradition has continued out of respect for the sport’s history and a desire to maintain formality.

The rules are enforced, too: Our own player Nick Kyrgios was allegedly fined $25,000 for rocking red Air Jordan trainers at 2023’s tournament. Interestingly, the decidedly non-white Gucci accessory was reportedly given the all-clear by the powers that be. A spokesperson for Gucci told WWD the house worked with Sinner’s team “for the approvals from the ITF (International Tennis Federation), ATP (Association of Tennis Professionals), and Grand Slams, including Wimbledon, to ensure the bag met the necessary requirements.”

The 23-year-old, who turned pro at age 18, became a Gucci ambassador in 2023 in his first luxury fashion endorsement. “Gucci for me represents Italian excellence around the world, excellence which is rooted in tradition as much as in innovation,” Sinner said. “This is the kind of message I am proud to convey when I represent my country wherever I am in the world.”

The Italian player was capture in action last week during his 1st round men’s singles match against Nicolas Jarry (from Chile) on day two of the Australian Open at Melbourne Park with more Gucci gear. Sinner carried a custom duffle bag crafted by HEAD and designed by Gucci to the men’s singles match on day two of the Australian Open tennis tournament in Melbourne.

Sinner will play Australian Alex de Minaur tomorrow 22 January at the Australian Open.

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We Cherrypicked the Best Elements of Luxury Resorts to Create the Ultimate Fantasy Hotel

Everyone has a favourite hotel—but what if you could create your own? We envision the ultimate place to stay, combining elements of the world’s most noteworthy openings. 

By Mark Ellwood 15/01/2025

Forget fantasy football—what about a heavenly hotel? Imagine you could create one from scratch, cherrypicking the best aspects of the world’s most noteworthy recent openings and reopenings, combined into the perfect, impossible property. That’s what we’ve done, from the best rooftop restaurant for supper to the only beach club where’s it’s truly worth basking in the sun, this is the world’s ultimate hotel. The only thing we can’t arrange: the chance to check in.

FACADE                                                                                                                     Capella Sydney
Australia

It took seven years to turn this local landmark—the building once housed the departments of education and agriculture—into a luxury hotel. A honey-coloured jewel in a precinct awash with appealing sandstone facades, its crowning glory, literally, is the gleaming, four-storey glass addition that perches atop the structure like an architectural tiara.

SUITES
The Surrey, a Corinthia Hotel
New York City


After a full reimagining by Martin Brudnizki and its new operators, Malta-based Corinthia Hotels, this Upper East Side stalwart’s signature suites now include a quartet inspired by Central Park bridges. Mouldings nod to the structures’ architectural details, while hand-painted sketches inside the grandes armoires evoke the Ramble-adjacent Bow Bridge. 

RESTAURANT
Le Rooftop at Royal Mansour Casablanca
Morocco


Relax on the 23rd floor of this Art Deco-inflected skyscraper hotel and you’ll not only enjoy astonishing views over the water and toward the towering Hassan II Mosque, but you’ll also find yourself rubbing elbows with the coolest crowd in the city. Snag a sofa on the terrace before sundown and linger all evening. 

LOBBY
Peninsula London
England


Hong Kong’s Peninsula hotels are renowned for their fleet of high-end classic cars—a personal passion of billionaire owner Sir Michael Kadoorie. No wonder he struck a deal with Surrey’s Brooklands Museum for his latest opening in London: not only is the Claude Bosi-operated restaurant named in its honour, but the institution also makes available a rotating selection of outstanding vintage vehicles—most recently, a Bentley Blower and a Napier-Railton—for display in the eatery’s dedicated lobby, close to the Concorde nose installed overhead, sourced from Kadoorie’s personal collection.

BEACH CLUB
Borgo Santandrea
Italy


The dearth of standout beaches is the Amalfi Coast’s dirty secret, so this is a remarkable asset: walk down through the terraced, lemon-tree-filled gardens of this Gio Ponti-inspired hotel bolted to the steep cliffs by Conca dei Marini, and you’ll stumble upon its own beach club attached to the property. The restaurant sits in a renovated boathouse; feel free to snip some herbs from the mismatched pots filled with sage and basil.

SPA
Meritage Resort and Spa
Napa Valley

The naturally formed 2,044 m² Estate Cave, located 12 m underground, was already spectacular—its extensive menu of treatments includes both cave-stone massage and guided breathing and meditation sessions—but the $37 million rehab of this establishment thankfully doubled the size of the adults- only pool in front of Spa Terra. 

POOL
One&Only Za
abeel Dubai
UAE


This gravity-defying infinity pool, sitting atop the cantilevered link between the hotel’s two towers, has a clubby vibe, swim-up bars and sunken seating pods—and the fact that it’s Instagram catnip doesn’t hurt either. 

Photos by ADRIAN GAUT; BORGO SANTANDREA; PENINSULA LONDON; WILL PRYCE.

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