Six emerald designs to make you green with envy

From the casual brightness of pale emeralds to classic deep green gems, here are six of our favourites.

By Rachel Garrahan 15/07/2017

At the recent Couture Show in Las Vegas, it seemed as if the paths of the show floor were paved in emeralds. There were flashes of green in all directions at the leading annual jewellery showcase, from the casual, brightness of pale emeralds to the classic (and more valuable), deep green gems. We have picked our favourite pieces to share with you.

Nikos Koulis

With their fierce, sensuous geometry, these earrings by Nikos Koulis have a distinctly bold, 1980s look. The Greek designer, who is constantly pushing the boundaries of jewellery design, brings new life to his classic V collection. Gemfields emeralds are nestled in a geometric criss-cross of black enamel and diamond baguettes which extend down to an elongated V of minutely-set pavé diamonds.

Selim Mouzannar

With almost 40 years experience in gemmology, Selim Mouzannar has an expert eye for a coloured stone. His use of black enamel in this contemporary interpretation of the line necklace is the perfect frame for the delicate emerald cabochons.

"I took this new enamel collection as an opportunity to create a special one of a kind piece made with unique stones," says Selim. "Deep green emeralds compliment the perfect black of the enamel and, as usual, I have used diamonds as a junction between each piece to make the necklace light and mobile, easy and elegant to wear."

Margery Hirschey

Margery Hirschey is known for the casual chic of her mismatched earrings, which sparkle with delicately coloured gemstones. It is therefore no surprise that she went for lighter shade of emerald in this pair.

"I love the slightly lighter emeralds more than the highly-saturated ones because they seem to glow from the inside which is so beautiful," says Margery. Movement was also key to this design, and Margery has achieved an impressive Calder-esque balancing act. "The fact they look a little off-kilter but hang perfectly straight is kind of a surprise."

Neha Dani

Neha Dani has been on our radar ever since she was named a JCK Rising Star in 2014. Her Parisa earrings are a perfect example of how she gives nature an abstract interpretation with richly saturated colours and minute sculptural detail. Inspired by a childhood visit to Australia's Great Barrier Reef, these earrings start with deep green emerald oval cabochons before extending down to elaborate twists of metals in contrasting blue and green rhodium plating.

"A dip below the waves and one enters a secret world of colour and movement, where the aquatic plants and anemones dance to the tune of water," explains the Delhi-based designer.

Repossi

A master of minimalist modern jewels, Gaia Repossi uses the human body as an architectural framework from which to hang her pieces. In this high jewellery ring from her Serti Sur Vide collection, she lets an impressive pear-shaped emerald do all the talking. The bottle-green glow of the gem appears to float on the finger, balanced by a single marquise diamond on the opposite side.

Jogani

Exhibiting not at the Couture Show but at the neighbouring Las Vegas Antique Jewellery and Watch Show was Jogani, a Beverly Hills-based antique jewellery dealer. Specialising in old-cut stones, they came across this Colombian old mine Muzo emerald at auction. The gem was recut to maximise its pure, vivid colour and natural flat crystalline structure before being brought to life in a contemporary setting.

"We meticulously sourced two matching side stones, and our craftsman wrapped the three stones together in one bezel — a nearly impossible task for delicate emerald material," says owner Anup Jogani. With an architectural shank of blackened silver, the result is timeless and dramatic.

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