If The Shoe Fits: The Best Bespoke Shoemakers In The World

Putting your best foot forward is a whole lot easier when it’s bespoke — here, the master craftspeople and makers to turn to.

By Tanisha Angel 24/07/2023

While there’s certainly no shortage of covetable footwear produced by luxury fashion houses and dedicated shoemakers, when it comes to fit—bespoke is best. Steeped in heritage and tradition, the world of bespoke footwear can be a difficult one to navigate. Traditionally, bespoke shoes refer to footwear made from scratch by a custom shoemaker following a consultation wherein a client’s measurements are taken and their desired style ascertained. The truly bespoke process involves the crafting of a personal last (a foot-shaped mould) prior to any production taking place; with the entire process often taking months or even years until completion.

Bespoke Carmina dress shoes | Credit Mr. Pulam, Carmina

However, the term ‘bespoke footwear’ is now also being ascribed to pre-designed styles that are made-to-measure. These can be produced in a far shorter time frame and are often priced at a fraction of their traditional bespoke counterparts.

To that end, there are only a select few truly bespoke shoemakers around the world. While England, Italy, and France are known purveyors of bespoke footwear, Spain and Japan are known emerging markets.

From heritage souters to up-and-coming makers, these are the best bespoke shoemakers in the world.

George Cleverley, England

the best bespoke shoemakers in the world

Currently helmed by George Glasgow Snr and George Glasgow Jr, who inherited the company from George Cleverley himself, the eponymous company was founded in 1958. Known for its quintessentially British approach to bespoke shoemaking, each pair of George Cleverley shoes utilise resoleable Goodyear welting with footwear styles ranging from tried-and-true Oxfords and derbies to louche velvet loafers and double monk strap shoes. In keeping with the times, George Cleverley also offers a ready-to-wear range, however, the bespoke experience underpins the brand.

georgecleverley.com

Carmina, Spain

Founded in Spain in 1866, Carmina offers a viable entry point into the world of bespoke footwear. Since its inception in the mid-19th century, it’s earned acclaim across the globe for its assiduous attention to detail and handmade craftsmanship. Sitting in the made-to-measure category, the Spanish souter offers 15 lasts designed to cater for various foot sizes and aesthetics and uses resoleable Goodyear welt stitching. Taking on a streamlined, distinctly European appearance, Carmina shoes showcase contemporary appeal despite the brand’s heritage credentials.

carminashoemaker.com

Berluti, France

Italian-born Alessandro Berluti founded his eponymous label in Paris in 1895. Although the maison has since expanded into accessories and ready-to-wear, bespoke footwear remains the cornerstone of the brand. Over a century since its establishment, Berluti’s dedication to craftsmanship hasn’t changed, with the truly bespoke offering requiring around 250 operations and 50 hours of labour. The ideal option for those who want their shoes to reflect their personality, Berluti’s artisans are able to accommodate each client’s unique desires—think intricately brogued details and original embroidery. Key to any Berluti piece is the patina, with the final step transforming the supple leather into the colour of your choice, with variances in shading details ensuring each pair of shoes is exclusive.

berluti.com

Loake, England

Founded in the shoemaking capital of Northampton, England by a trio of brothers, Loake has been producing Goodyear-welted shoes since 1880. Today, the brand has lasted thanks to its adoption of contemporary styles into its classic range–though no longer truly bespoke, they offer a solid entry point into made-to-measure footwear while combining machinated and handmade elements.

loakeshoes.com.au

Edward Green, England

the best bespoke shoemakers in the world

Also established in Northampton, England in 1890 by Edward Green, to eponymous company maintains its fastidious approach to craftsmanship to this day, making just 350 pairs of shoes a week. Taking a made-to-measure approach, the British shoemaker has a vast array of leathers and finishes to select from, with each pair of shoes using a Goodyear welt.

edwardgreen.com

Stefano Bemer, Italy

best bespoke shoemakers in the world

Founded by Florentine shoemaker Stefano Bemer in 1983, the eponymous company offers both bespoke and partially bespoke shoes; the latter involving some machine-made elements. With a distinctly Italian aesthetic, Stefano Bemer shoes take on a slim-fitting silhouette, with burnished and patinaed leather aplenty. Expect to find classic silhouettes like derbies and penny loafers, as well as laceless ‘lazy man’ oxfords, Jodhpur boots, and bow-tie loafers.

stefanobemer.com

Yohei Fukuda, Japan

Founded by Yohei Fukuda in Tokyo in 2008, the namesake brand offers both bespoke and ready-to-wear footwear (the latter is produced in a limited run of 200 shoes per year). Each pair of bespoke shoes is handmade by the company’s in-house artisans and take approximately three to four months to complete. Reconciling heritage shoemaking techniques with contemporary tastes, Yohei Fukuda brings a unique eye to the world of bespoke footwear, with sleek designs set to stand the test of time.

yoheifukuda.com

John Lobb, England

best bespoke shoemakers in the world

One of England’s finest shoemakers, John Lobb founded his brand in 1866. Today, the company operates independently in England and as part of the Hermès group in Paris. Representing (and defining) the archetypal English shoemaking style, John Lobb shoes are understated and steadfast in their design. With several styles remaining unchanged for almost a century, a pair of bespoke John Lobb shoes is a failsafe investment.

johnlobb.com

Gaziano & Girling, England

best bespoke shoemakers in the world

With a century of shoemaking experience between them, Dean Girling and Tony Gaziano founded Gaziano & Girling in Northampton in 2006. Combining Italian comfort with British craftsmanship and sturdiness, Gaziano & Girling shoes are known for their commitment to exclusively using oak bark on their soles. Available both truly bespoke and made-to-order, each pair of shoes exudes heritage style while being perfectly at home in the contemporary era.

gazianogirling.com

Paolo Scafora, Italy

best bespoke shoemakers in the world

Established by Paolo Scafora in Naples in 1956, the brand remains in the family to this day—currently run by his grandson of the same name. Beginning with handmade ready-to-wear footwear, Paolo Scafora has been offering a made-to-order service for the past decade. The key draw card? The comparatively quick turnaround time, with the souter able to produce shoes in just four to six weeks thanks to the use of plastic lasts rather than wood.

Aubercy, France

Founded by André and Renée Aubercy in 1935, the bespoke and ready-to-wear shoemaker has an illustrious past, with footwear initially designed to meet the tastes of high society clientele in Paris. At the turn of the millennium, the shoemaker introduced a bespoke service. Embodying quintessential Parisian style, the Goodyear welted shoes exude old-world elegance.

aubercy.com

Hiro Yanagimachi, Japan

best bespoke shoemakers in the world

Another key player in the emerging Japanese market, London Cordwainers College alumnus Hiro Yanagimachi has been offering a truly bespoke service since 1999. Each pair of shoes is fully handmade at the Tokyo atelier, with made-to-order, made-to-measure, and bespoke services available (the latter involving a last made from scratch). Incorporating Japanese traditional Japanese design principles, materials are selected to beautify with age while handmade details are celebrated.

hiroyanagimachi.com

Crockett & Jones, England

The brainchild of brothers-in-law Charles Jones and James Crocket, the heritage British company was founded in Northampton in 1879 and today is owned and operated by the fourth generation of the founding families. Employing an eight-stage construction process and utilising the tried-and-tested Goodyear welt, Crockett & Jones shoes have been worn by two generations of the royal family—King George VI and Prince Charles—as well as unofficial royalty in Daniel Craig’s James Bond who sported them in Skyfall and Spectre. Pillars of traditional British style, Crockett & Jones footwear is primarily ready-to-wear, however there is also a made-to-order service available which allows for personalisation.

crockettandjones.com

Alfred Sargent, England

Another Northamptonshire shoemaker (are you sensing a pattern here?), Alfred Sargent was founded in 1899. Handcrafted in the traditional English style, Alfred Sargent specialise in Goodyear welted dress shoes.

alfredsargent.co.uk

FAQ

Who are the best bespoke shoemakers in the world?

John Lobb, Paolo Scafora, and George Cleverley are among the best bespoke shoemakers in the world.

Who are the best Japanese shoemakers?

Japan is steadily emerging as a key market for bespoke footwear. Yohei Fukuda and Hiro Yanagimachi are two of the best Japanese bespoke shoemakers.

What is the oldest shoe brand in the world?

The oldest shoemaking company still currently in operation is Ed Meier. Founded by Hans Mayr in Munich, Germany in 1596, the company began as a fully bespoke service, primarily serving the supper class and going on to earn a Royal Warrant through its service to the Saxon royal house, the House of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen, and the Bavarian royal house. At the beginning of the 20th century, Ed Meier expanded into ready-to-wear footwear.

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Forget a Bow Tie. Here Are 3 Black-Tie Accessories to Rock Instead

Stylist Tom Stubbs on ditching the bow tie this festive season—and what to wear alternatively.

By Tom Stubbs 21/01/2025

Black tie, that essential marker of an increasingly rarefied ceremonial style, is inspiring. Nothing coaxes men into upping the sartorial ante quite like reading those words on an invitation. I say amen to raising the bar, but I can’t bear wearing a traditional bow tie—and haven’t done so for over a decade.

Around the turn of the millennium, I was enthusiastically dress-code obedient, but two unstoppable forces put me off: Fashion moved on, and I got old. Where abiding by hallowed traditions once felt exalted, it suddenly began to seem restrictive and stuffy. And while it was extraordinary to be a bow-tied 30-something, in my 40s, the convention made me feel like a pompous, conservative square. Now, menswear has changed so much that bow ties register as pedestrian garb better suited to waiters than to revellers.

Fortunately, there are several black-tie alternatives that excite and inspire me now that I’m well into my 50s—many espoused by stylish guys on the red carpet and innovative designers in London, Paris, Florence, and Milan. And though I might take a bow on nonconformism as I step into my 60s, I still plan to steer clear of the bow tie, that ultimate symbol of gentlemanly customs, for as long as I can. Here’s what I’m replacing it with.

Form and Function

I got excited seeing Lemaire’s slim metallic modernised bolo ties in the house’s fall 2024 show. A favourite of men as varied as Johnny Cash, Bruce Springsteen, and Snoop Dogg, the bolo is perhaps best remembered as the chosen neckwear of John Travolta’s surly hit man, Vincent, in Pulp Fiction. Originally, Native American tribes including the Zuni, Hopi, and Navajo used these accessories used to fasten bandannas with plaited-leather cords. High-end versions double as a bit of jewellery, with silver slides set with turquoise and often engraved with animal motifs, including buffalo skulls and eagles. Contemporary takes abound, but vintage sleuthing can turn up some particularly beguiling options.

From left to right: Lemaire’s bolo on the runway; Bruce Springsteen ditching the bow tie in 1988; Lemaire’s silver bolo-tie necklace, $640. Getty Images/Courtesy of Lemaire

Gambling Man

A gambler from London’s La Bowtique, about $516 Courtesy of La Bowtique

Varying in size, flounce, and attitude, ribbon ties—also called gambler or Kentucky neckties—have long been a legitimate black-tie alternative. Actor Cillian Murphy has worn Saint Laurent’s take to various award shows, looking stand-alone chic and authentically cool. They have a distinct Western energy—Kirk Douglas donned one as Doc Holliday in Gunfight at the O.K. Corral, as did Robert Vaughan in The Magnificent Seven. But they’re as much rock star as they are gunslinger: The late Johnny Thunders of the New York Dolls and Bauhaus front man Peter Murphy (style role models of mine) also wore them with panache. Take a note from the runway and wear them with a pair of boots—cowboy, Chelsea, or with a Cuban heel—to really step away from the standard.

Fit to Be Tied

From left to right: Lemaire’s bolo on the runway; Bruce Springsteen ditching the bow tie in 1988; Lemaire’s silver bolo-tie necklace, $1024.
Getty Images/Courtesy of Lemaire

If you want to give yourself some breathing room, consider scarves and neckerchiefs. This fall, Tom Ford proposed a louche take on evening style, using black, slim-plaited, or delicately sequined scarves whose long tassels provocatively dangle at the hips. For maximum effect, the brand styled them with open satin shirts, recalling rockers Mick Jagger and Rod Stewart. London’s La Bowtique also does beautiful outsize bows. On a smaller scale, the Twilly—a short silk scarf pioneered by Hermès—works in much the same manner. The French maison makes gorgeous options with angled ends for extra verve, whether hanging loose or more discreetly knotted.

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Show Stoppers

The Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance—a beauty pageant for priceless classic cars—returns for another instalment at the city’s most intriguing, and unlikeliest, venue.

By Vince Jackson 15/01/2025

The logic behind staging a prestige automobile show on an island may, at face value, seem warped—history tells us that cars and water do not play nicely. The rationale twists further when said piece of land is a former shipyard that is, aesthetically, more workhorse ute than classic Ferrari. 

Scratch beneath the surface, however, and the decision to plant the Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance on Cockatoo Island for the second year running begins to make locational sense: the steel arch of the emblematic bridge acting as photogenic backcloth; the UNESCO World Heritage site’s previous guises as 19th-century penal colony and eminent boat-building facility fleshing the show’s historical bones; the theatre of watching collectors delicately coaxing their four-wheeled artworks off a rusty roll-on/roll-off barge in the islet’s wharf before showtime. (After all, if owning a car in this stratosphere isn’t about projecting drama, then what’s the point?) 

Throw in an endless endowment of free Champagne for guests and VIP transport from the mainland via superyacht, and it barely matters that the three-day jamboree is, in the words of founder and curator James Nicholls, “a logistical nightmare”.

“People love the energy, the adventure” says the Anglo-Italian, a broadcaster, writer and photographer whose extensive resume includes various stints as a concours judge across the world. “There’s a great contrast between the luxurious motor cars and the industrial environment. The Turbine Shop [a timeworn, hanger-like space used to display the vehicles] is where ocean-going liners and propellers were built. People interested in cars are also interested in that kind of thing but it’s just a backdrop. Cars are the main focal point.”

The concours d’elegance concept (“concours” means “competition” in French) can be traced back to 17th-century Paris, when aristocrats would flaunt horse-drawn carriages in local parks during summer months. Animals eventually gave way to automobiles, and the gatherings mutated into more organised contests in which these new-fangled contraptions were, in somewhat prescient fashion, judged solely on the appearance. The trend spread throughout European high society, before reaching America in 1950 with an inaugural pageant at Pebble Beach, California—a concours which has since evolved into a behemoth of the species, now billing itself as “the world’s most prestigious car show” and drawing 214 vehicles and spectators in the low five figures at the last annual meeting. Other concours are thriving globally, from spectacles in Lake Como in Italy (the longest running event, launched in 1929) to Udaipur in India. Vanity, it seems, remains in vogue.

Among this storied company, Sydney’s interpretation is playing catch-up. But Nicholls insists the local variant—launched in 2019, having occupied three other citywide locations—has no intention of locking horns with competitors. Not numerically, at least. 

“In 2024, we had 500 people over the three days; this year we’ll aim for 750. But we’re never going to become a 20,000-people show,” he says. “We want it to be bespoke and beautiful, so people don’t have to queue for a glass of Champagne. You can talk to the car owners, and everyone feels like a VIP.” The overarching aim is to become a “destination event” on the socialite calendar, on par with the Melbourne Cup or the Australian Grand Prix.

While keen to keep paying visitors guessing, Nicholls offers Robb Report a sneak peek into some of the 44 objets booked to occupy the coarse, exposed-brick viewing hall, ranging from turn-of-the-century rarities to modern-day exotics: a 1905 Eugène Brillié 20/24 HP Coupé Chauffeur, believed to be the only one of its ilk left; a 1955 Porsche Speedster 356 “Pre A”, examples of which are valued in excess of $750,000; a Lamborghini Miura 3400, a model famed for its starring role in the opening sequence to 1969’s The Italian Job movie; a 2021 Audi R8 Spyder, an iteration that is no longer being produced and thus quietly accruing kudos.

Up to seven “classes” will be open, including categories solely for Porsche Speedsters and pre-war Australian coachbuilt cars. Two 1930s Bugattis are slated for appearance, one of which is, as this article is being written, on a boat somewhere, on its way to Australia. A panel of seven judges, led by the first ever female concours head assessor, who also adjudicated in 2024, will select the overall “Best in Show” winner—scored last time out by a 1964 Ferrari 250 LM, a model line with a $24 million price tag attached. And in a progressive play designed to lure the oil-shunning generation, an “electric elegance” section will debut. Nicholls estimates the combined value of all this precious metal at around $80 million.

While it would provoke an illicit thrill to discover that frenzied super-collectors were slyly puncturing rivals’ tyres or keying priceless bodywork—skulduggery has plagued other pageants, from dog show Crufts (canine poisoning) to Miss World (rigging allegations)—the entrants are, in keeping with the show’s refined, English-garden-party profile—a gentlemanly bunch. To a point. “They like meeting up, the community that’s here, but they do get competitive,” says Mark Ussher, the Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance managing director, and on-the-ground organiser. “They care about their cars but they’re investors as well as collectors. If they win a concours anywhere around the world it adds value to the car.”

Which makes it doubly important that, surrounded by all that deep Harbour water, everyone remembers to put their handbrake on.

The Sydney Harbour Concours D’Elegance runs from February 28th-March 2nd 2025; sydneyharbourconcours.com.au

Book tickets now and take benefit from the RR 15% discount code: ROBB15

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Jannik Sinner Is the First Tennis Player to Take a Luxury Bag Onto Wimbledon’s Centre Court

The 23-year-old Italian flaunted a custom Gucci duffle bag on center court.

By Rachel Cormack 21/01/2025

Jannik Sinner aced the style game at last year’s Wimbledon Championships.

The Italian tennis star turned up to his match against Juan Manuel Cerundolo with a custom Gucci duffel bag on his shoulder. It marks the first time a designer bag has been carried onto centre court in the history of the prestigious, centuries-old tennis tournament, as reported by Women’s Wear Daily.

The duffel, which Sinner describes as a “timeless classic,” showcases the house’s signature beige and ebony colorway, the iconic GG monogram, and a contrasting green and red web stripe. It also features the athlete’s initials near the straps. Ironically, the rather traditional design has called into question a 150-year tradition.

“For sure this will create a conversation,” Sinner told WWD before defeating Cerundolo in straight sets. “Bringing sport and luxury fashion together in this way is something that’s never been done before and I feel extremely proud to be a part of it. I hope people will love it as much as I do.”

Wimbledon’s dress code is extremely strict: Players have been required to wear white at the event since 1877, with not even off-white or cream permitted on the court. Tennis whites were originally instated as it was believed the ensemble showed less sweat, as reported by Time. The tradition has continued out of respect for the sport’s history and a desire to maintain formality.

The rules are enforced, too: Our own player Nick Kyrgios was allegedly fined $25,000 for rocking red Air Jordan trainers at 2023’s tournament. Interestingly, the decidedly non-white Gucci accessory was reportedly given the all-clear by the powers that be. A spokesperson for Gucci told WWD the house worked with Sinner’s team “for the approvals from the ITF (International Tennis Federation), ATP (Association of Tennis Professionals), and Grand Slams, including Wimbledon, to ensure the bag met the necessary requirements.”

The 23-year-old, who turned pro at age 18, became a Gucci ambassador in 2023 in his first luxury fashion endorsement. “Gucci for me represents Italian excellence around the world, excellence which is rooted in tradition as much as in innovation,” Sinner said. “This is the kind of message I am proud to convey when I represent my country wherever I am in the world.”

The Italian player was capture in action last week during his 1st round men’s singles match against Nicolas Jarry (from Chile) on day two of the Australian Open at Melbourne Park with more Gucci gear. Sinner carried a custom duffle bag crafted by HEAD and designed by Gucci to the men’s singles match on day two of the Australian Open tennis tournament in Melbourne.

Sinner will play Australian Alex de Minaur tomorrow 22 January at the Australian Open.

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We Cherrypicked the Best Elements of Luxury Resorts to Create the Ultimate Fantasy Hotel

Everyone has a favourite hotel—but what if you could create your own? We envision the ultimate place to stay, combining elements of the world’s most noteworthy openings. 

By Mark Ellwood 15/01/2025

Forget fantasy football—what about a heavenly hotel? Imagine you could create one from scratch, cherrypicking the best aspects of the world’s most noteworthy recent openings and reopenings, combined into the perfect, impossible property. That’s what we’ve done, from the best rooftop restaurant for supper to the only beach club where’s it’s truly worth basking in the sun, this is the world’s ultimate hotel. The only thing we can’t arrange: the chance to check in.

FACADE                                                                                                                     Capella Sydney
Australia

It took seven years to turn this local landmark—the building once housed the departments of education and agriculture—into a luxury hotel. A honey-coloured jewel in a precinct awash with appealing sandstone facades, its crowning glory, literally, is the gleaming, four-storey glass addition that perches atop the structure like an architectural tiara.

SUITES
The Surrey, a Corinthia Hotel
New York City


After a full reimagining by Martin Brudnizki and its new operators, Malta-based Corinthia Hotels, this Upper East Side stalwart’s signature suites now include a quartet inspired by Central Park bridges. Mouldings nod to the structures’ architectural details, while hand-painted sketches inside the grandes armoires evoke the Ramble-adjacent Bow Bridge. 

RESTAURANT
Le Rooftop at Royal Mansour Casablanca
Morocco


Relax on the 23rd floor of this Art Deco-inflected skyscraper hotel and you’ll not only enjoy astonishing views over the water and toward the towering Hassan II Mosque, but you’ll also find yourself rubbing elbows with the coolest crowd in the city. Snag a sofa on the terrace before sundown and linger all evening. 

LOBBY
Peninsula London
England


Hong Kong’s Peninsula hotels are renowned for their fleet of high-end classic cars—a personal passion of billionaire owner Sir Michael Kadoorie. No wonder he struck a deal with Surrey’s Brooklands Museum for his latest opening in London: not only is the Claude Bosi-operated restaurant named in its honour, but the institution also makes available a rotating selection of outstanding vintage vehicles—most recently, a Bentley Blower and a Napier-Railton—for display in the eatery’s dedicated lobby, close to the Concorde nose installed overhead, sourced from Kadoorie’s personal collection.

BEACH CLUB
Borgo Santandrea
Italy


The dearth of standout beaches is the Amalfi Coast’s dirty secret, so this is a remarkable asset: walk down through the terraced, lemon-tree-filled gardens of this Gio Ponti-inspired hotel bolted to the steep cliffs by Conca dei Marini, and you’ll stumble upon its own beach club attached to the property. The restaurant sits in a renovated boathouse; feel free to snip some herbs from the mismatched pots filled with sage and basil.

SPA
Meritage Resort and Spa
Napa Valley

The naturally formed 2,044 m² Estate Cave, located 12 m underground, was already spectacular—its extensive menu of treatments includes both cave-stone massage and guided breathing and meditation sessions—but the $37 million rehab of this establishment thankfully doubled the size of the adults- only pool in front of Spa Terra. 

POOL
One&Only Za
abeel Dubai
UAE


This gravity-defying infinity pool, sitting atop the cantilevered link between the hotel’s two towers, has a clubby vibe, swim-up bars and sunken seating pods—and the fact that it’s Instagram catnip doesn’t hurt either. 

Photos by ADRIAN GAUT; BORGO SANTANDREA; PENINSULA LONDON; WILL PRYCE.

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Hole In One

The Citizen Kanebridge VHG Golf Open Returns to The Southern Highlands This February.

By Robb Report Team 09/01/2025

The third annual Citizen Kanebridge VHG Golf Open Day is happening again this year at Citizen Kanebridge Lodge in the Southern Highlands on Friday, February 21. Players will tee off from 8 am for a day of unrivalled bucolic hospitality in the spirit of friendly competition.

The Open unites forces with the operators of Mount Broughton in Sutton Forrest to stage the popular day, in which teams of four enter to enjoy 18 holes of unadulterated fun.

Players will meet at the clubhouse, where—golf aside—they will be served breakfast, lunch and liquid refreshments throughout the day before heading back to Citizen Kanebridge Lodge for a special dinner, fun awards ceremony and more drinks.

Located just 10 minutes from the Citizen Kanebridge Lodge in Berrima, the stunning Mount Broughton course gives players—male and female, and ranging from amateur to semi professional—the chance to compete in a golf day with plenty of high-jinks and food along with way.

The event is part of the new offering from Citizen Kanebridge, a private membership club based in Sydney. Citizen Kanebridge allows members to have access to the Robb Report Club(RR1) based in the United States of America, Citizen Kanebridge Lodge in the Southern Highlands of NSW, and The Royal Automobile Club of Australia (RACA) in Circular Quay, Sydney.

Members interested in Golf Open Day, may enquire by reaching out to leanne@citizenkanebridge.com.au. For more information on Golf Open day, you can download the information brochure here.

Love golf? jump to our golf connoisseurship package from the Spring 2024 issue of Robb Report ANZ.

 

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