If The Shoe Fits: The Best Bespoke Shoemakers In The World

Putting your best foot forward is a whole lot easier when it’s bespoke — here, the master craftspeople and makers to turn to.

By Tanisha Angel 24/07/2023

While there’s certainly no shortage of covetable footwear produced by luxury fashion houses and dedicated shoemakers, when it comes to fit—bespoke is best. Steeped in heritage and tradition, the world of bespoke footwear can be a difficult one to navigate. Traditionally, bespoke shoes refer to footwear made from scratch by a custom shoemaker following a consultation wherein a client’s measurements are taken and their desired style ascertained. The truly bespoke process involves the crafting of a personal last (a foot-shaped mould) prior to any production taking place; with the entire process often taking months or even years until completion.

Bespoke Carmina dress shoes | Credit Mr. Pulam, Carmina

However, the term ‘bespoke footwear’ is now also being ascribed to pre-designed styles that are made-to-measure. These can be produced in a far shorter time frame and are often priced at a fraction of their traditional bespoke counterparts.

To that end, there are only a select few truly bespoke shoemakers around the world. While England, Italy, and France are known purveyors of bespoke footwear, Spain and Japan are known emerging markets.

From heritage souters to up-and-coming makers, these are the best bespoke shoemakers in the world.

George Cleverley, England

the best bespoke shoemakers in the world

Currently helmed by George Glasgow Snr and George Glasgow Jr, who inherited the company from George Cleverley himself, the eponymous company was founded in 1958. Known for its quintessentially British approach to bespoke shoemaking, each pair of George Cleverley shoes utilise resoleable Goodyear welting with footwear styles ranging from tried-and-true Oxfords and derbies to louche velvet loafers and double monk strap shoes. In keeping with the times, George Cleverley also offers a ready-to-wear range, however, the bespoke experience underpins the brand.

georgecleverley.com

Carmina, Spain

Founded in Spain in 1866, Carmina offers a viable entry point into the world of bespoke footwear. Since its inception in the mid-19th century, it’s earned acclaim across the globe for its assiduous attention to detail and handmade craftsmanship. Sitting in the made-to-measure category, the Spanish souter offers 15 lasts designed to cater for various foot sizes and aesthetics and uses resoleable Goodyear welt stitching. Taking on a streamlined, distinctly European appearance, Carmina shoes showcase contemporary appeal despite the brand’s heritage credentials.

carminashoemaker.com

Berluti, France

Italian-born Alessandro Berluti founded his eponymous label in Paris in 1895. Although the maison has since expanded into accessories and ready-to-wear, bespoke footwear remains the cornerstone of the brand. Over a century since its establishment, Berluti’s dedication to craftsmanship hasn’t changed, with the truly bespoke offering requiring around 250 operations and 50 hours of labour. The ideal option for those who want their shoes to reflect their personality, Berluti’s artisans are able to accommodate each client’s unique desires—think intricately brogued details and original embroidery. Key to any Berluti piece is the patina, with the final step transforming the supple leather into the colour of your choice, with variances in shading details ensuring each pair of shoes is exclusive.

berluti.com

Loake, England

Founded in the shoemaking capital of Northampton, England by a trio of brothers, Loake has been producing Goodyear-welted shoes since 1880. Today, the brand has lasted thanks to its adoption of contemporary styles into its classic range–though no longer truly bespoke, they offer a solid entry point into made-to-measure footwear while combining machinated and handmade elements.

loakeshoes.com.au

Edward Green, England

the best bespoke shoemakers in the world

Also established in Northampton, England in 1890 by Edward Green, to eponymous company maintains its fastidious approach to craftsmanship to this day, making just 350 pairs of shoes a week. Taking a made-to-measure approach, the British shoemaker has a vast array of leathers and finishes to select from, with each pair of shoes using a Goodyear welt.

edwardgreen.com

Stefano Bemer, Italy

best bespoke shoemakers in the world

Founded by Florentine shoemaker Stefano Bemer in 1983, the eponymous company offers both bespoke and partially bespoke shoes; the latter involving some machine-made elements. With a distinctly Italian aesthetic, Stefano Bemer shoes take on a slim-fitting silhouette, with burnished and patinaed leather aplenty. Expect to find classic silhouettes like derbies and penny loafers, as well as laceless ‘lazy man’ oxfords, Jodhpur boots, and bow-tie loafers.

stefanobemer.com

Yohei Fukuda, Japan

Founded by Yohei Fukuda in Tokyo in 2008, the namesake brand offers both bespoke and ready-to-wear footwear (the latter is produced in a limited run of 200 shoes per year). Each pair of bespoke shoes is handmade by the company’s in-house artisans and take approximately three to four months to complete. Reconciling heritage shoemaking techniques with contemporary tastes, Yohei Fukuda brings a unique eye to the world of bespoke footwear, with sleek designs set to stand the test of time.

yoheifukuda.com

John Lobb, England

best bespoke shoemakers in the world

One of England’s finest shoemakers, John Lobb founded his brand in 1866. Today, the company operates independently in England and as part of the Hermès group in Paris. Representing (and defining) the archetypal English shoemaking style, John Lobb shoes are understated and steadfast in their design. With several styles remaining unchanged for almost a century, a pair of bespoke John Lobb shoes is a failsafe investment.

johnlobb.com

Gaziano & Girling, England

best bespoke shoemakers in the world

With a century of shoemaking experience between them, Dean Girling and Tony Gaziano founded Gaziano & Girling in Northampton in 2006. Combining Italian comfort with British craftsmanship and sturdiness, Gaziano & Girling shoes are known for their commitment to exclusively using oak bark on their soles. Available both truly bespoke and made-to-order, each pair of shoes exudes heritage style while being perfectly at home in the contemporary era.

gazianogirling.com

Paolo Scafora, Italy

best bespoke shoemakers in the world

Established by Paolo Scafora in Naples in 1956, the brand remains in the family to this day—currently run by his grandson of the same name. Beginning with handmade ready-to-wear footwear, Paolo Scafora has been offering a made-to-order service for the past decade. The key draw card? The comparatively quick turnaround time, with the souter able to produce shoes in just four to six weeks thanks to the use of plastic lasts rather than wood.

Aubercy, France

Founded by André and Renée Aubercy in 1935, the bespoke and ready-to-wear shoemaker has an illustrious past, with footwear initially designed to meet the tastes of high society clientele in Paris. At the turn of the millennium, the shoemaker introduced a bespoke service. Embodying quintessential Parisian style, the Goodyear welted shoes exude old-world elegance.

aubercy.com

Hiro Yanagimachi, Japan

best bespoke shoemakers in the world

Another key player in the emerging Japanese market, London Cordwainers College alumnus Hiro Yanagimachi has been offering a truly bespoke service since 1999. Each pair of shoes is fully handmade at the Tokyo atelier, with made-to-order, made-to-measure, and bespoke services available (the latter involving a last made from scratch). Incorporating Japanese traditional Japanese design principles, materials are selected to beautify with age while handmade details are celebrated.

hiroyanagimachi.com

Crockett & Jones, England

The brainchild of brothers-in-law Charles Jones and James Crocket, the heritage British company was founded in Northampton in 1879 and today is owned and operated by the fourth generation of the founding families. Employing an eight-stage construction process and utilising the tried-and-tested Goodyear welt, Crockett & Jones shoes have been worn by two generations of the royal family—King George VI and Prince Charles—as well as unofficial royalty in Daniel Craig’s James Bond who sported them in Skyfall and Spectre. Pillars of traditional British style, Crockett & Jones footwear is primarily ready-to-wear, however there is also a made-to-order service available which allows for personalisation.

crockettandjones.com

Alfred Sargent, England

Another Northamptonshire shoemaker (are you sensing a pattern here?), Alfred Sargent was founded in 1899. Handcrafted in the traditional English style, Alfred Sargent specialise in Goodyear welted dress shoes.

alfredsargent.co.uk

FAQ

Who are the best bespoke shoemakers in the world?

John Lobb, Paolo Scafora, and George Cleverley are among the best bespoke shoemakers in the world.

Who are the best Japanese shoemakers?

Japan is steadily emerging as a key market for bespoke footwear. Yohei Fukuda and Hiro Yanagimachi are two of the best Japanese bespoke shoemakers.

What is the oldest shoe brand in the world?

The oldest shoemaking company still currently in operation is Ed Meier. Founded by Hans Mayr in Munich, Germany in 1596, the company began as a fully bespoke service, primarily serving the supper class and going on to earn a Royal Warrant through its service to the Saxon royal house, the House of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen, and the Bavarian royal house. At the beginning of the 20th century, Ed Meier expanded into ready-to-wear footwear.

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Painted Black

Dion Lee is teaming up with Cho Cho San for an Australian Fashion Week event.

By Horacio Silva 10/05/2024

The more things change, the more things stay the same. Nowhere more than in the fashion world. Despite the vagaries of taste, black remains the go-to colour of choice. Fitting, then, that for next week’s Australian Fashion Week, the perennially black-clad media darling Dion Lee has partnered with Pott’s Point Izakaya joint Cho Cho San on a black-themed late-night ramen bar.

Lee, based in New York and not showing in Sydney next week, has worked with the restaurant to create a menu inspired by his inky, haute-industrial aesthetic and favourite flavours.

As part of the signature offering ($50pp) guests are offered “Dion’s Martini” on arrival (his take on the classic vodka drink spiked with a black olive, natch), a Tokyo-style shoyu ramen with shitake mushrooms, smoked daikon and crunchy tempura shiso leaf, and a winning black sesame and cocoa soft-serve ice-cream replete with black cone. (Trust us, it tastes infinitely better than it sounds.)

Lee rarely strays outside his fashion lane, but a little blackbirdie tells us to expect an announcement soon about a major new collaboration. Let’s hope it involves black ice cream.

Cho Cho San x Dion Lee: Late Night Ramen Bar

Available from May 13-16, 5pm to late.

Signature set: $50pp includes Dion’s Martini, Tokyo Shoyu Ramen and Black Sesame Soft Serve.

To book click here

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A New Chapter for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Stories’

A special Reverso exhibit arrives in Sydney this week.

By Josh Bozin 08/05/2024

Few watch enthusiasts would be unfamiliar with Jaeger-LeCoultre and its enduring Reverso collection. Since 1931, the Reverso has been celebrated as one of the great dress watches of the 20th century.

In recent years, the watch has gone from strength to strength—in 2023 alone, we received the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, the impressive Duoface Tourbillon, and the slimmer Reverso Tribute Small Seconds—capturing the imagination of casual observers, collectors, and those looking to scale the horological ladder.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre

It is also part of the cultural conversation thanks to exceptional branding experiences, such as ‘Reverso Stories’, a travelling experiential trunk show. Jaeger-LeCoultre is again summoning its movable experience to Australia, this time in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. For a limited time, eager fans can glimpse the Reverso collection up close via a multi-sensory exhibition tracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.

Presented in four chapters ( Icon, Style and design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship), the Reverso story will be told through the lens of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expert watchmakers, who combine nine decades of craftsmanship, inventiveness, and design into one interactive experience.

As a bonus, guests will be privy to a large-scale art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang—commissioned by the Maison under its ‘Made of Makers’ programme—and the launch of three exceptional new Reverso timepieces, yet to be revealed. These watches will showcase skills such as enamelling, gold-leaf paillonage, and gem-setting, mastered by the manufacturer’s in-house Métiers Rares (Rare Handcrafts) atelier.

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Completing the immersion into the spirit of Art Deco, guests will be able to enjoy a complementary refreshment post-experience at the pop-up Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Café.

‘Reverso Stories’ will be held in Sydney’s Martin Place from 10–19 May 2024. It will be open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (and 5 p.m. on Sundays) and free to the public. Visitors are welcome to book online here or register upon arrival.

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

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So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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