Don’t Ride This Wave ….*unless your name is Robinson, Slater or Moore.

The 2024 Olympic surfing comp will be held at Tahiti’s treacherous Teahupo’o. Going for gold could be deadly.

By Jen Murphy 15/04/2024

It’s day two of the 2023 Tahiti Pro Surf Competition. I’m perched on the roof of a VIP boat around 100 metres from Teahupo’o, one of the world’s most dangerous waves. American Surf icon Kelly Slater has just been swallowed by a heaving wall of turquoise water. I’m so close to the action that when he’s finally spit out from the ride, my face gets misted in ocean spray. Below me, Australian Jack Robinson, who will go on to win the event, sits on the edge of the boat performing breathing exercises ahead of his heat. Around me, a flotilla of kayaks, jetskis, surfboards, and small vessels bobs in the channel, acting as a floating stadium for fans. 

For many of the competitors—and the 1,400-odd residents of the wave’s namesake village—this year’s contest is a dress rehearsal for an event with a far larger global profile in a few months’ time. While many of the world’s top athletes will travel to France in July for the 2024 Paris Olympic Games, the most talented surfers will head here, to the southwest corner of Tahiti island’s small peninsula, Tahiti Iti, to vie for gold at Teahupo’o in just the second surf competition in Olympic history. 

Aerial View by Manea Fabisch

In keeping with the limit of two surfers per gender, per nation, the Australian flag will be flown by Ethan Ewing (No. 2 in the World Surf League rankings at the time of writing) and the aforementioned Robinson (No. 5) in the men’s category, and Tyler Wright (No. 3) and Molly Picklum (No. 5) in the women’s. On this form, hopes of a homegrown medal haul are high.

Carissa Moore of the US who took gold at the 2021 Olympics at the Tahiti Pro in Teahupo’o. IMAGE: Beatriz Ryder

Olympic officials could have chosen a site off the coast of France, such as the surf towns of Biarritz or Hossegor, but historically, Mother Nature brings more sizable waves to Tahiti at this time of year. Plus, surfing has deep cultural ties to the region. The sport originated in Polynesia and dates as far back as the 12th century; it was practiced by Polynesian royalty. Teahupo’o is also a world-class wave that challenges the mental and physical prowess of even the most experienced competitors. The high risk of surfing this spot guarantees thrills that officials anticipate will boost viewership. 

Located in the gin-clear waters of the South Pacific with a background of mountains that appear to be draped in jade-green crushed velvet, Teahupo’o (pronounced TAY-a-hoo-poh-oh) is one of the sport’s most infamous swells. (Its name loosely—and cheerily—translates to “place of skulls”.) According to Memoirs of Marau Taaroa, Last Queen of Tahiti, printed in 1893, the first person to surf it was actually a woman from the island of Raiatea, in the 19th century. Not until the 1980s did anyone dare attempt it again, with the first competition hosted in the late 1990s. Former pro turned filmmaker Chris Malloy has called it “the wave that has changed surfing forever”.

Australian surfer Jack Robinson with his trophy. IMAGE: World Surf League

In the right conditions, Teahupo’o can tower upwards of six metres. That may sound small compared to the monster-size Jaws in Maui or Nazaré in Portugal—which can climb as high as 25 metres—but it’s not the height that makes Chopes, as the wave is lovingly called, so special. It’s the weight. When surfers describe a wave as heavy, they’re referring to its combination of a thick lip (the powerful section that starts to curl over) and the amount of water surging behind it.

Like most of the surf breaks found throughout French Polynesia, Teahupo’o is a reef break, meaning the water spills over the surface of knife- sharp coral. Chopes is unique because around 50 metres beyond the reef, the ocean drops more than 15 metres. As swells come toward the shore, the transition from deep water causes them to jack up over the coral before quickly crashing down with tremendous force. 

“The reef evolved perfectly in order to absorb the wave’s energy in the shortest distance possible to create this natural wonder,” surf superstar Laird Hamilton tells Robb Report. “It’s a wave that stands straight up and creates a huge barrel. It’s one of the greatest waves on Earth.” In 2000, Hamilton rewrote surfing history when he rode what has been dubbed the Millennium Wave here. Up until then, Teahupo’o was considered too perilous to attempt when it reached a certain size. Hamilton, a pioneer of tow surfing, had a jetski pull him into what is still considered one of the heaviest waves ever ridden. Surfer magazine published a memorable cover of him getting barrelled with just the words “Oh my god…” because the feat was so dangerous. 

In places, the reef lurks just 50 centimetres beneath the water’s surface, and the lip can act like a liquid guillotine if it clamps down before a surfer exits the hollow tube of the wave, known as the barrel. Had Hamilton wiped out, he wouldn’t have had an escape route. 

A flotilla of fans watch Brazilian Pato Teixeira in action

I’m an avid amateur surfer and live on Maui part-time to take advantage of Hawaii’s waves, but even on a gentle day, I wouldn’t attempt Teahupo’o. Teahupo’o village has a water-safety patrol that watches over athletes during contests. Still, a handful of surfers have lost their lives here, and many go home with serious battle wounds. In August last year, during a practice session for the Tahiti Pro, Ethan Ewing fractured two vertebrae in his back after crashing out in solid, but average, six-foot waves—an accident that arguably cost him top spot in the world rankings. 

In classic gung-ho-surfer fashion, though, the Queenslander was back in the water at Teahupo’o three months later, one eye still resolutely fixed on Olympic glory. “Definitely more anxious than excited heading back to Tahiti after hitting the reef really hard last time,” he posted on his Instagram account. “Teahupo’o is still seriously intimidating, but I feel like I’ve made some steps in the right direction.”

Unless you surf, Tahiti Iti probably isn’t on your radar. Starting from the largest town of Taravao, the south-coast road ends at the village of Teahupo’o, hence its nickname, the End of the Road. The community, just 500 metres from the wave, is the antithesis of the glitz and glamour of Paris or even nearby Bora Bora. This is a slice of tropical paradise that has somehow evaded development. To reach the contest each day, I park at the end of the road, then walk over a one-lane bridge and follow a sandy path that passes local homes. 

“All of your senses are heightened here,” former world surf champion C. J. Hobgood tells me when I run into him at the event. “It’s not just the wave—it’s the island. Everything looks five- dimensional. Mountains seem stacked on mountains and glow a vivid green. You turn to the right and these bluer-than-blue waves are breaking. Then a rainbow might appear in the sky. The raw beauty is overwhelming to take in when you first arrive.” 

Surfers talk of feeling the mana, a Polynesian word for spiritual energy, here. Jack Robinson even referenced it after his victory in the Tahiti Pro. It may sound woo-woo, but I undoubtedly feel something when I arrive after a 90-minute drive south-west from the hotel-lined harbour of Tahiti Nui, the island’s larger, more developed area. Tahiti Iti’s empty beaches and waterfall-riddled lush interiors remind me of a quieter, more vibrant version of Hana, a little corner of Maui with just one hotel, a handful of restaurants and kilometres of untamed nature. In an era of over-tourism, this kind of purity comes with a trade-off: You won’t find five-star hotels or celebrity-chef restaurants on Tahiti Iti. In fact, it doesn’t have any hotels at all—and won’t be opening any ahead of the Games. 

Locals have been adamant that Olympic infrastructure remains minimal. The proposed construction of a three-storey judging tower directly on the reef at Teahupo’o has been a major concern among residents and environmental groups. The one Olympic improvement locals welcome is a new bridge that will connect to the beach in front of Chopes. 

I check into Villa Mitirapa, newly built in the rural community of Afaahiti, a 25-minute drive from Teahupo’o. Giant carved wooden doors lead to an open-air living room, a plunge pool and views of the lagoon, and every evening a chef drops by with a delicious preparation of the catch of the day. In the village of Teahupo’o, you’ll find family-owned guesthouses such as Vanira Lodge, a collection of three bungalows tucked up in Te Pari (“the cliffs” in Tahitian), as well as A Hi’o To Mou’a, a B&B run by the proprietor of hiking outfit Heeuri Explorer.

2024 French Olympian Vahine Fierro, who first surfed Teahupo’o as a teenager

Pro surfers are typically hosted by the same local families year after year. (During the Olympics, athletes will be housed on a ship anchored in a sandy area offshore to avoid damaging the seabed.) Hobgood tells me he made visits to his “adopted Tahitian family” for nearly two decades. For the past five years, he has come to Teahupo’o to help coach reigning Olympic champ, Hawaiian Carissa Moore and now stays with her adopted family. “They take us on hikes you’d otherwise never know how to access and have rich stories about the place,” he says. “And everything they prepare for us at meals, from the passion-fruit jam to the chilli sauce, is homemade.” 

The next big thing being “adopted” by a Tahitian family is hiring Raimana van Bastolaer as your guide. For a first-time visitor, Tahiti Iti can be far harder to access than other islands, which is perhaps why so few people explore the peninsula. You need a local to reveal where to go, and van Bastolaer makes you feel like an insider. 

Surfer and guide Raimana van Bastolaer

Born and raised in the capital of Papeete, he was one of the first locals to surf Chopes, and over the years, his intricate knowledge of the wave has earned him the nickname the Godfather of Teahupo’o. He was out in the channel with Hamilton the day the American had his historic ride, and John John Florence and Kelly Slater are among the surfers who stay with him when they’re in town. Van Bastolaer even did a stint as a part-time coach at Surf Ranch, Slater’s central California wave park. Thanks to his non-stop pursuit of a good time, everyone wants to be around him. Now 48, the stockily built, dauntingly athletic van Bastolaer has become the go-to guide for visitors ranging from Julia Roberts, Margot Robbie and Jason Momoa to Mark Zuckerberg and Prince Harry. “I get to yell at princes and CEOs,” he jokes. “I’m out in the water with them telling them when to pop up and paddle. And they love it.” 

Tahiti’s unofficial ambassador lives and breathes surfing. Through his company, Raimana World, he takes just one or two guests at a time on private curated surf tours throughout French Polynesia’s two central archipelagoes: the Society Islands (which are home to Tahiti) and the Tuamotus; he plans to add Fiji soon. Some of his clients base themselves on their own yachts or charter one through Pelorus. The yacht specialist’s Tahiti portfolio includes the 77-metre La Datcha, which has two helipads, a submersible and a spa. 

Motu Nao Nao, a private new island resort in French Polynesia.

Other clients he directs to exclusive properties, such as Motu Nao Nao, a new 25-hectare private-island resort in the cerulean lagoon of Raiatea with just three enormous villas crafted from coral, wood, and shells. A roving bar bike delivers custom cocktails to guests as they explore the island, and the French chef, inspired by Asian and North African cuisine, prides himself on never repeating a dish, no matter how long guests stay. 

Van Bastolaer gets only one or two clients a year experienced enough to be coached into a barrel at Teahupo’o. “Most just want to get close to the wave to feel its energy and hear it roar,” he says. “That’s enough to give you an adrenaline rush.” Locals are incredibly protective of their surf spots, and van Bastolaer stays away from popular breaks. “Out of respect, I don’t take clients out if there are more than a few people in the water. Luckily, I have access to toys that get us away from the crowds.” He island-hops by helicopter, yacht or jet boat, then transports guests to surf breaks via high-speed RIB (rigid inflatable boat) or jetski. Most days average two to three hours of surfing, and he sprinkles in other activities such as snorkeling, whale watching (July to November) and barbecues at his house. 

Papara, the beautiful black-sand beach where van Bastolaer honed his skills, 45 minutes from Teahupo’o, will be turned into a fan viewing zone with jumbo screens during the Olympics. Papara is one of the most forgiving surf breaks in Tahiti, and I head here to longboard. La Plage de Maui, a simple restaurant with sandy floors, plastic chairs and lagoon vistas, becomes my daily après-surf spot. Located in West Taiarapu, 40 minutes east of Papara, with nothing but coastal road and local homes in between, this humble spot sits next to Maui Beach, one of the only white-sand beaches on the whole island. This stretch may be Tahiti Iti’s best-kept secret. 

After a barefoot walk along the shore, I don’t bother to put my shoes back on before heading into the restaurant, where servers proudly sport Tahiti Pro T-shirts and posters of pros hang on the walls. At a waterfront table, I spot rainbow-hued parrotfish and Moorish idol in the glassy lagoon. I’m pretty sure I could live on a diet of local Hinano beer and poisson cru, Tahiti’s national dish of raw fish marinated in lime juice and coconut milk. My final day, I ask my waitress if she’s concerned the Olympics might overexpose this laid-back, oft-forgotten enclave. She just laughs in reply. 

On the drive back to my villa, I remember what van Bastolaer told me when we were introduced a year ago: Tahiti Iti’s specialness is lost on those seeking overwater bungalows or nightlife. It’s a place you can’t know in a day. The island reveals itself to you slowly. And even when van Bastolaer is your host, he won’t give away all its secrets. 

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Follow Your Nose 

Embark on an olfactory adventure with these location-inspired scents.

By Justin Fenner 18/10/2024

At the end of a memorable visit to the Dominican Republic, Robert Gerstner decided to commission a souvenir. He’d been fascinated by the aromas of cigars being rolled and boxed during a factory tour, so he asked his friend and travelling companion, the perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, if he could bottle the scent. 

“I didn’t really think there were any great tobacco fragrances out there,” Gerstner says, and he would know. For nearly 30 years he’s run Aedes, a New York City perfume shop that offers exclusive scents, including an in-house collection called Aedes de Venustas. The newest, Café Tabac, debuted last December and is the product of Duchaufour’s efforts. It’s named for the Big Apple’s long-shuttered supermodel hangout, but the scent is redolent of the Dominican Republic’s key export. 

Since then, a raft of houses have launched scents that are either directly evocative of, or otherwise inspired by, specific destinations—a trend that makes sense given our near-insatiable thirst for visiting new places. “Locations are one of the main things fragrances stir up in you,” Gerstner says. 

“It just happens that you get inspired by travelling.”

Arquiste A Grove by the Sea
Lopud, Croatia

 

This small island in the Adriatic Sea has forests of pine, cypress and some of the tallest palms in Europe. The scent, created with perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, captures the sea air that blows through their leaves and fronds to combine with the crisp aroma of locally grown thyme, rosemary and figs. Around $330 for 100 ml 

Louis Vuitton Lovers
Virginia, USA 

Pharrell Williams asked Vuitton’s in-house master perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud to capture the energy of sunshine. The result—named in reference to Williams’s home state, Virginia (which, they say, is for lovers)—is a bright, lively blend of galbanum, cedarwood, sandalwood and ginger. $535 for 100 ml 

Perfumehead La La Love
Los Angeles, USA 

Consider this an olfactory ode to the City of Angels creatives who work as hard as they play. Perfumer Constance Georges-Picot’s gourmand concoction smells like a cocktail you could easily have one
too many of, with boozy Cognac notes mixing it up with vanilla absolute, incense, sandalwood and musk. Around $645 for 50 ml 

Memo Paris Cappadocia
Cappadocia, Turkey 

Turkey is among the world’s foremost saffron producers, and the spice’s earthy, tea-like scent takes centre stage in this effort by nose Gaël Montero. He balanced it with sandalwood, benzoin, myrrh and jasmine to create a warming scent that’s perfect for the cooler months but still works all year. $460 for 75 ml 

Krigler Lindauer Löwe 08
Lindau, Germany 

Bavaria’s answer to Capri, Lindau is a colourful island-resort town on the eastern edge of Lake Constance. Perfumer Albert Krigler loved it here so much that he dedicated a scent to the destination in 1908. His great-grandson Ben recently re-released the juice—a combination of green tea, geranium, amber and cedarwood—just this June. Around $960 for 100 ml 

ILLUSTRATIONS BY Peter Oumanski 

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The Art of Cartier

The Maison des Métiers d’art plays a pivotal role in preserving Cartier’s most special bodies of expertise.

By Brad Nash 16/10/2024

Cartier is a brand synonymous with lavish city living. Yet despite its swathe of multi-storey monuments to all things brilliant, it’s a rather unassuming Maison, set amidst the rolling green fields of La Chaux-de-Fond, where the house’s most special brand of magic is woven.

Seasoned connoisseurs of fine watches and jewellery are now well familiar with the works of the Maison des Métiers d’art—a special workshop set up by Cartier in late 2014 to serve as a temple of traditional craftsmanship. Home to a host of artisans, many of whom have been working for Cartier for years, it has since become the de facto birthplace for Cartier’s most limited and special creations, bridging the space between haute jewellery and high horology while providing a unique ecosystem where one can influence the other.

Now a decade into its significant life, the Maison des Métiers d’art is celebrating ten years of growth and evolution. It has transformed from a special preserve for a once-threatened generation of artisans into a place where a new set of pioneering artists and craftspeople can emerge and thrive.

As guests and visitors look on, metalworkers and enamel artists create exquisite works of art using techniques and traditions once on the verge of extinction while innovative and experimenting with their own. Precious metal workers use granulation and filigree, techniques that date back to well before the start of the common era, to create one-of-a-kind reliefs.

Elsewhere, composers, engravers, and master setters experiment across experimental and traditional realms, working with everything from the most precious gems to simple stone, wood, and straw to produce pieces that, regardless of their composition, push the brand’s boundaries of creativity and attention to detail. A typical piece by the Maison des Métiers d’art takes hundreds of hours to produce.

In a world of luxury often defined by sales figures and splashy celebrity endorsements, the artistic merits of a house like Cartier can sometimes be in danger of getting lost among the noise. However, in this revered Maison, one is reminded of the craftsmanship and creativity that sets some institutions apart from the rest.

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Golden Touch

Discretion is the better part of glamour at the glittering Maybourne Beverly Hills. 

By Horacio Silva 09/10/2024

Los Angeles does not want for star wattage, but for years now, the city’s hotel scene has been a little lacklustre. So news that the beloved Montage hotel has been completely redone under the Maybourne brand (the British powerhouse that operates Claridge’s, The Connaught, and Berkeley Hotels in London, and the recently opened Maybourne Riviera on the Côte d’Azur) should come as a boon to Australians looking for a new Tinseltown bolthole.

Situated within Beverly Hills’ famous Golden Triangle, just north of Wilshire Boulevard and Four Season’s Beverly Wilshire, and one block from the world-renowned luxury retailers, restaurants and celeb-spotting of Rodeo Drive, The Maybourne Beverly Hills offers a chic retreat from the designer flexing at its doorstep; a rare escape in the heart of this storied enclave that flies under the radar like a cap-wearing celeb dodging the paparazzi.

Set amid the manicured, Mediterranean-style Beverly Cañon Gardens plaza, which unfolds from the hotel’s west entrance, the new incarnation of Montage Beverly Hills (55 suites and 20 private residences, each with a balcony or patio with a courtyard or city view) still evokes the grand estates of Old Hollywood while feeling like you’re in a European mainstay.

Revealing a restrained new guestroom and suite design by Bryan O’Sullivan, a blue-chip art collection and some of the most solicitous staff in town, the Maybourne speaks in a laid-back Californian accent but still holds true to the luxury touchpoints of five-star service for which one of the world’s most exclusive neighbourhoods—and hotel brands—is known.

“It’s reassuringly British when it comes to service—it’s a culture of yes,” says Linden Pride, the Australian restaurant and bar owner behind the award-winning Caffe Dante in New York and Bobbie’s, the new speakeasy opening this month below Neil Perry’s new Song Bird restaurant in Sydney’s Double Bay (page 40). Pride should know; he lived at the Maybourne for almost a year while he and his partner, Nathalie Hudson, set up Dante, the stunning new restaurant and bar on the hotel’s ninth-floor rooftop. “Looking out from the roof onto lemon and olive trees, it’s easy to forget that you’re in Southern California, not Europe.”

Opened last year, Dante has quickly become one of the hottest reservations in town, luring in celebrities from Baz Luhrmann and Catherine Martin to the entire Real Madrid soccer team. Like its sister outposts in New York (besides the Greenwich Village original, a West Village location opened in 2020), the focus here is on non-threatening antipasti and aperitivi in a produce-driven menu of fresh familiar stalwarts, with the addition of wood-fired dishes from a giant pizza oven at the heart of the room. Just as it does in New York, a negroni cart does the rounds, and each afternoon is welcomed with a martini happy hour.

It’s all fittingly Cali-chill. The only drama in the place is a striking ceiling fresco by Los Angeles artist Abel Macias, which dominates the 146-seat room. “Nathalie and I had just been to Europe when we decided to open up here,” Pride recalls, “and the Sistine Chapel blew us away. When we saw the domed ceiling in this room it was a no-brainer.”

Dante joins a string of newcomers in the area, including New York transplants Café Boulud, Marea and Cipriani. Don’t look now, but with arrivals like the Maybourne and Dante, one of the world’s stuffiest cities—yes, Beverly Hills is its own 14.8 km² metropolis—might just be entering a new golden age.

The Maybourne

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Catalina Turns 30

While Most Restaurants Possess The Lifespan of a Butterfly, Catalina Stands Apart For Serving Sydney For Three Decades

By Belinda Aucott-christie 02/10/2024

Quick and easy yacht access. Arrival by seaplane. A touch of caviar and vintage Champagne to kick things off? Catalina has in spades what the Emerald City is truly famous for.  Even after three decades of service, this Rose Bay fixture remains a desirable address.

Afternoons and evenings here always manage to etch themselves on the memory for years to come. And this year, as Catalina marks its 30 anniversary, it’s appropriate to raise a glass to this institution’s winning formula that balances a dramatic outlook with a calming interior.

Whether you’re watching the seaplanes take off by day or being mesmerised by the shadow play of seagulls on the curving terrace by night, Sydney Harbour provides a stunning backdrop.

It’s a magical setting that is made sweeter by how little the place has changed.

Executive Chef Mark Axisa and Head Chef Alan O’Keeffe have established a reputation for bright clean flavours and healthy-ish fare. Produce and textures on the menu are simple but never staid and unlike many chefs who get way too tricky in the kitchen, Catalina’s chefs have created a menu that is full of dishes you actually want to eat.

It includes Glacier 51 toothfish served with a cigar of spanner crab roulade, and juicy Spanish mackerel cooked to perfection in red curry sauce with crunchy sugar snap peas. To up the ante this summer you can also indulge in a delicious Rock lobster risotto, order Catalina’s signature suckling pig or hail down their new roaming dessert cocktail trolley (created by designer du jour David Caon).

“We’re about to celebrate 30 years, which is an achievement we’re very proud of,” said owner and founder Judy McMahon at Veuve Clicquot’s 2015 La Grande Dame launch in August. 

Dressed in an immaculate white head-to-toe outfit, McMahon was quick to acknowledge the commitment and support of her children James and Kate who have stepped up to the plate since the passing of her late husband, Michael, in early 2020.

 

The new guard is flying the flag for fine dining in his honour, serving plenty of freshly shucked Sydney rock oysters, pouring energetic wines from all over the world and maintaining an elegant continuum beloved by Sydney locals.

And because everything tastes better with a view,  there’s really no better place to unwind that here, with a fine glass of Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame rosé Champagne and a trout and herring roe churro.

Catalina

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10 Impossibly Elegant Dress Watches to Wear at Your Black-Tie Holiday Party

Next-level dress watches to spruce up your tux from Cartier and Vacheron Constantin to Piaget and more.
Published on October 10, 2024

By Carol Besler 17/10/2024

There are times when bells and whistles like helium valves, jumbo bezels, and lume-slathered markers should be kept firmly in the storage drawer in favour of something more understated and composed.

Holiday galas, formal festive dinners, and black-tie events call for a solid, classic dress watch. Except that it should be a step up in some way from the classic day watch: a platinum case, a status-conferring high complication (one that is rendered with tasteful discretion), or a pop of subtle sparkle by way of diamond highlights or a rare stone dial. Here are 10 possibilities that are poised, elegant, and quietly luxurious for the holiday season—although, with the appeal of the dress watch on the rise, you should consider these year round.

Jean-Daniel Meyer

The Ellipse, first introduced in 1968, is one of the many shaped watches that emerged as a new genre during the late sixties and early ’70s. The Ellipse, despite being known for its distinctive chain bracelets, has always been a favorite of male collectors. Patek revived it this year after 15 years in development, and equipped it with the ultra-thin caliber 240, which makes it the slimmest watch in the Patek Philippe regular collection: perfect for slipping neatly under a crisp French cuff. $89,817

The Platinum Excellence line is a capsule collection, produced occasionally, only in limited editions (50 for this one), and always in platinum, including the dial, crown, pushers and buckle. Even the stitches of the leather strap are a mix of silk and platinum. Since it’s a chronograph, you can use it as a countdown function at New Year’s Eve parties, and in the process, show off the tourbillon in the 12 o’clock position. Price upon request.

Photo: Parmigiani

Since taking over as CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier in 2021, Guido Terreni has leaned into the brand’s legacy as a maker of high-level classic dress watches. Not by making dramatic statement pieces but by doubling down on refinement. “We are seeing a rediscovery of sartorialism, which is booming as a business,” says Terreni. “Gentlemen in their thirties are rediscovering how beautiful it is to dress well.” Enough said. $138,693

Photo: Breguet

If any brand can stake a claim to the word “Classique,” it’s Breguet. The Ref. 7637 is the epitome of quiet elegance. While it appears low key on the dial, inside it comes equipped with watchmaking’s crème de la crème complication, the minute repeater. The hands and coin-edge caseband are pure Breguet, and the grand feu enamel dial and elegant star-shaped minute markers (with stylized fleur-de-lys at five-minute intervals) are subtly scream luxury. It contains the hand-wound caliber 567.2, which is so outstandingly decorated that flipping the case over to admire it is a must. Price upon request.

Photo: Rolex

Rolex drops its sports watch persona for a moment with this new collection that demonstrates it also knows how to do classic dress watches. The rice-grain guilloché pattern on the dial is everything, but especially here in the signature ice blue that Rolex reserves for its platinum editions. It’s a colour that true aficionados will recognise from across the room as an elite model from the mighty Crown. $46,181.

Photo: Audemars Piguet

High complications are made for moments of high occasion and pretension, but only if they are elegantly rendered. This souped-up Royal Oak is a long way from the RO’s sports watch roots. It’s an openworked tourbillon cased in AP’s proprietary sand gold alloy—a colour that hovers between white and pink gold—and looks understated compared to most all-gold watches. CHF 250,000 (about $434,912)

Photo: Piaget

Until this year, Piaget called this the Black Tie collection, but because the model, which was originally launched in the 1980s, was worn by Andy Warhol, Piaget received permission from the artist’s estate this year to officially name it the Andy Warhol collection. This malachite version in white gold demonstrates one of Piaget’s prowess in the use of stone dials. Combined with a ruby stud set and cuff links, it’s made for the holiday season but will look sharp year round. $76,221

Photo: Laurent Ferrier

Yes, it’s a salmon dial, and yes, it has the word “sport” written right on the dial, so there’s no hiding that. Yet, Laurent Ferrier has a way of making a sports watch look like a classic dress watch. You can’t even see the tourbillon that is also advertised on the dial and finished to perfection. It’s a stellar example of the emphasis on of the versatility of watches that waver between the dress and sports watch category. It is powered by the manual-wound tourbillon caliber LF619.01 with a double balance spring and an 80-hour power reserve. $283,963


Photo : H. Moser & Cie

This watch is the happy result of a marriage between tradition and modernity, with a classic case and minimalist markings coupled with state-of-the-art nanotechnology. The Vantablack dial (Vertically Aligned Nano Tube Arrays), an ultra-black coating that is considered the darkest substance in the world, puts the black in black tie. The subtle tourbillon hovering at 6 o’clock adds a punctuation of pizzazz to the otherwise stark dial. $123,299

Photo: Cartier

The Tank became synonymous with dress watch when Cartier invented it in 1922, just as watches were emerging as something you could wear on the wrist rather than hidden in the pocket. It was worn mainly by the bourgeoisie to confirm their status. The brancards were inspired by army tanks, but the design now represents personal victories rather than war-time inspo. On this one, a frame of 150 diamonds surrounding a black laquer center square place it firmly in the black tie category. From $31,000

 

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