
Connoisseur: Toast of the Town
After centuries of exclusion, women are now heading up the industry’s leading houses. Let’s clink glasses to that.
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There’s something undeniably sensual and feminine about Champagne, yet in a domain dominated by men, the patriarchy bubble looks set to burst. Like every other aspect of its production, the Champagne appellation is changing and paving the way for a new generation of women to wield influence.
At Duval-Leroy, Carol Duval-Leroy is the first and currently only female to be appointed president of the Association Viticole Champenoise; Alice Tétienne is cellar master and vineyard director for Henriot; Alice Paillard is CEO and co-owner of Champagne Bruno Paillard. Meanwhile, in the far-flung reaches of the Vallée de la Marne and Côte des Bar, Françoise Bedel and Nathalie Falmet run their own grower-producer labels. Not to be outdone, sitting firmly in chef de cave roles are Julie Cavil at Krug and Floriane Eznack at Champagne Jacquart.
It takes a wilful spirit to become a visionary matriarch and great courage to lead a luxury brand. Here we meet a few of the women leaving their mark in the Champagne cellars.

Séverine Frerson, chef de cave at Perrier-Jouët
Chardonnay Superstar
In 2020, Frerson joined Perrier-Jouët from Piper-Heidsieck to become the first female cellar master in the maison’s history. She replaced Hervé Deschamps and is now the eighth person in Maison Perrier-Jouët’s 200-year history to take on the esteemed role. Born and raised amid the vines of the Champagne region, Frerson has a clear vision of her mission as chef de cave.
“Each cuvée reflects a harmony of elegance and craftsmanship which defines the house,” she says, crediting a special blend of nature and savoir faire for the maison’s exquisite portfolio of Champagnes. “I especially love the Belle Époque, which perfectly balances the finesse of pinot noir with our signature, chardonnay.”

Julie Cavil, chef de cave at Krug
Queen of Champagne
After 13 harvests, Julie Cavil was named Cellar Master of Krug in 2020. Today, she is the first female chef de cave at the House of Krug, overseeing the Grande Cuvée and its stablemate Clos du Mesnil. “The Grande Cuvée is a blend of over 120 different plots of wines from more than 10 different years, requiring me to blend, assess and use my intuition,” she explains. “Krug Clos du Mesnil is much more straightforward. It’s crafted from a single, walled plot of vines, from a single grape variety—chardonnay—on a given harvest year. We do not create it every year, but only on years when we feel that the music of the Clos du Mesnil captures the purity of chardonnay.”

Sophie Larmandier, Larmandier-Bernier
Queen of Quality
Originally from Avize, Larmandier is a graduate of École Centrale de Lyon. In 1988, she married Pierre to become the head of esteemed grower-producer label Larmandier-Bernier, and together with her sons Arthur and Georges, she now runs the estate as a family business. “Let’s just say we are free to make the wine we enjoy drinking,” she says. “Our house style is defined by what we like: purity, salt, with some structure and length.”
Larmandier adds that they derive the “bone” of their wine from the unique soil. “Thanks to the chalk of Côte des Blancs, we don’t have to sacrifice ripeness to keep the freshness.”

Elise Losfelt, chef de cave at Charles Heidsieck
Chieftain of Chalk
Losfelt enjoyed stints winemaking in Bordeaux and Australia at Dominique Portet before landing a job in the Champagne region. Today, she is keeper of the flame at Charles Heidsieck, where the maison provides some of the best ageing conditions for their wines deep in the 47 crayères (chalk pits) which date from the Gallo-Roman era.
Losfelt prides herself on having “learned to understand the poetry and emotions that surround Champagne”. She makes the entry-level Brut Réserve for the label which expresses the full DNA of the brand, as well as its exceptional vintage and rosé stablemate. These wines are generous, complex and, as Losfelt adds, striking for their “aromas, stratified texture and long finish”.

Vitalie Taittinger, President at Taittinger
Lady President
Born in Reims in 1979 Vitalie Taittinger has held the role of artistic and marketing director of Taittinger for just over a decade. She graduated from the Emile Cohl School of Design in Lyon in 2001, where she trained in illustration and graphic art techniques and as a former freelance illustrator Vitalie Taittinger has risen to become chief of the house that bares her family name.
“Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grands Crus is a crown jewel to me, the quintessential house style. It is the finest example of our Taittinger house style and is always a vintage cuvée. It is made with 100% white grapes from the five villages with a Grands Crus classification.”
“Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grands Crus illustrate the nobility of Chardonnay, ‘It’s a poem’. I believe in the quality of our products and their strong singularity as the two most important pillars.
Photography: Michael Ferire (Julie Cavil); Léo Ginailhac (Elise Losfelt); Jean-François Robert (Séverine Frerson).
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