
Hooked on Caviar
Australians are fixated with the venerable sturgeon roe—thanks to experimental local chefs and quick “hits” in restaurants.
For a taste of pure luxury, caviar is an appetiser par excellence. And in Australia, our consumption of the sturgeon-procured delicacy has grown exponentially. Just ask Lisa Downs. At the dawn of the new millennia when the entrepreneur started her small-scale concern, she imported just 60 kilos of caviar a year. Now in 2024, demand is so buoyant, her business—which has since been acquired by Simon Johnson—brings in around three tons.
Consumption peaks in the early summer months and, according to Downs, continues through Chinese New Year and into the balmy nights of February. Often likened to the black pearl for its scarcity, and prized for its high oil, fat and salt content, the best quality caviar is almost always served before any other food has hit the tongue. Chefs will tell you the product pairs best with plain foods that allow caviar’s saltwater neutrality to breathe, but it can also enhance complex or crispy dishes with its creamy texture and subtle umami.
Following a worldwide ban in 2000 on fishing sturgeon for their roe, as the species neared extinction, the industry has adopted more ethical and sustainable practices to preserve fish stocks. These days, smaller but no less delicious quantities still originate from the prized waters of the Caspian and Black Sea, but high-calibre examples can also be found coming out of China, Spain, Italy, Iran, the UAE and even Australia (though locally, roe are collected from salmon or trout, as the sturgeon is considered a noxious species and production is prohibited.”

Caviar “bumps” are now offered at some of the country’s best seaside restaurants, including mimi’s in Coogee, Sydney, or Entrecôte in Prahran, Melbourne. A single hit of 10-20 grams is served from a tin resting on an iced bowl and the caviar is placed on the back of the hand using a spoon made of shell, horn or bone. The roe is supposed to rest between the index finger and the thumb, enabling it to warm to body temperature—and express its full flavour and quality—before it is consumed in a single kiss. True caviar devotees will then press the delicate eggs up into the roof of the mouth and inhale through their nostrils to capture the magical perfume. “One thing I love about caviar is that people don’t rush eating it,” says Downs. “With caviar people stop and enjoy the experience.”
At his modern Greek eateries in Sydney and Brisbane, executive chef Jonathan Barthelmess favours Yarra Valley caviar from Victoria served on top of a filo crisp with taramasalata. He opts for ethically farmed, sustainably produced pearls, which form the core of the lemony Greek dip which has become one of his signatures. By contrast, at home he serves malossol (low salt) Oscietra caviar in a simple fashion: “I like to keep it low key with sour cream and a packet of Pringles.”

In a similar vein, Mr. Wong chef Dan Hong also keeps things humble. “I like to have my caviar with either potato gems or hash browns, and a Japanese-style tartare sauce,” he says. “The difference being Japanese tartare has roughly chopped hard-boiled egg.”

At the other end of the gastronomic scale, chef Peter Gilmore of Quay and Bennelong fame doesn’t shy from the sultry indulgence of caviar. At the former, his house-made crumpets and caviar are lionised by patrons. Gilmore says the best way to enjoy the sea’s black gold is “with a glass of Champagne in one hand, and a caviar bump on the other.”
Whether you’re an inquisitive newbie or experienced buff, consider the words of Lisa Downs, who implores that everyone follows the golden rule of caviar connoisseurship. “Never order less than 30 grams for four people,” she says, “and remember to buy it, and consume the tin in one opening. Think of it like a bottle of Dom Pérignon. You don’t open a fine Champagne and then put the cork back in. The idea is that you open it, you celebrate it, and you drink the whole thing at once.” Welcome to your new obsession.
Shop Caviar for the holidays at Simon Johnson.
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