The Talented Mr. Ripley, and what Steve McQueen wore in just about everything. Fred Astaire is eternally divine in black tie while Sean Connery’s James Bond remains preternaturally put together. These criminally charismatic actors inspired generations of men, their sartorial savvy etched into our minds via the big screen and heavy rotation on cable and Tumblr.
But what classic movies are secretly stylish? That have unforgettable leading men not dressed by Wes Anderson or Tom Ford or lingering close-ups of tie knots and cocktail cuffs? Sartorial movies tend to be period pieces, either because they began life as such (Out of Africa) or aged into the role (Wall Street), but these six titles represent more unexpected—dare we say dangerously intriguing—contenders.
1. ‘Barcelona’ (1994)
In Whit Stillman’s world, it’s simply a given that you go out in a coat and tie. His characters share the references and attitudes of their class, and these are un-reconstructed preps we’re talking about—they’re not looking to reinvent anything, let alone bring a “modern twist to the classics.” The button-down oxford-cloth shirt is their native tongue; the yellow dress tie, their inheritance. “Very New Wave,” one woman remarks when Ted, our forlorn hero played by Taylor Nichols, unexpectedly finds himself at a costume party. She thinks he’s being ironic. (He’s not.)
2. ‘The Servant’ (1964)
In his dark and brilliant film, Dirk Bogarde plays Hugo Barret, the gentleman’s gentleman to Tony, the dissolute aristo portrayed by James Fox. Both remain impeccably dressed even when behaving appallingly. The mood is set early on—when we first meet Fox, he’s passed out: “Too many beers at lunch,” he groans—and while these men are undeniably tasteful, Harold Pinter’s acidic script makes it clear they’re not to be trusted. Bogarde commands equally in a belted overcoat or shirtsleeves and a tie, while Fox looks terrific in everything from evening dress to a shearling coat to a light knit tie (which, for the record, is never wrong). The film also showcases a murderer’s row of covetable knitwear, including shawl-collared cardigans, sailor sweaters, and Fair Isle vests.
3. ‘Miller’s Crossing’ (1990)
This 1990 Coen Brothers’ gangster film focuses on Gabriel Byrne’s Tom Reagan, forced to negotiate some Irish Italian friction (to say the least) without losing his hat. That piece of headwear, a proper dark-brown fedora—not the smaller sibling favored by boy bands—takes on heightened significance when Reagan declares, “There’s nothing more pathetic than a man chasing after his hat.”We’re here for the tailoring, which is discreet and tasteful—neither Tom nor Albert Finney’s Leo puts a well-shod foot wrong—and we can all learn from both their tonal approach and their double-breasted overcoats. This is surely the only film where a character wields a tommy gun while wearing a silk dressing gown and velvet slippers as “Danny Boy” plays on the gramophone. Firearms optional; the look remains exquisite.
4. ‘The Long Goodbye’ (1973)
Robert Altman’s beloved whodunit has aged wonderfully. Elliot Gould plays Philip Marlowe with a low voice and on a sardonic high—nobody has ever cared less about his effect on people. What’s striking is that his dark suit, which he wears in nearly every scene, is close-fitting, perfectly modern, and utterly correct. His dress shirt features long collar points (a smart idea) and stands up on its own even when it’s not buttoned all the way up—an example for any man going sans tie. Marlowe reminds us that, should we commit to a good suit, one that comes to resemble us rather than the tailor who made it, our character will carry the day.
5. ‘Miami Vice’ (2006)
On Michael Mann’s iconic 1980s TV show Miami Vice, detective Sonny Crockett inspired a wave of pastel T-shirts under oversize blazers. Fast-forward to 2006, when Mann released the trailer for his film adaptation and people lost their minds. Sure, it was partly excitement that the maestro was back on hallowed, neon-soaked ground. But the sugar high was offset by the alarming sight of Colin Farrell’s monstrous mullet-and-moustache combo, which became known in some circles as the Full Crockett.
The film itself is a slow burn. Viewers needed closed captions to decipher the mumbled dialogue and an advanced degree in double crosses to unwind the plot. But when they finally gave in to the gorgeous cinematography, the cult grew. Farrell is aggressively louche, veering so far beyond good taste that he almost circles = around again. The facial hair is tough to stomach, as are the sunglasses, but something about it just works.
6. ‘After Hours’ (1985)
This Martin Scorsese “picture” (as the director would say) is finding a new audience on streaming services. It’s easy to see why. The film depicts one madcap night in 1980s New York for Griffin Dunne’s Paul Hackett, capturing the era’s art world, lofts, clubs, and dive bars (remember those?), not to mention angry mobs and a bloodthirsty ice-cream truck. Any modern indie rocker, art dealer, or magazine editor can take a cue from Hackett’s gray suit, which he pairs with a daring (for him) dark shirt to head downtown after swapping out his work-appropriate checked shirt and tie. A few things have changed over the years—you’re probably not picking up a performance artist in an Upper East Side diner these days—but the look remains timeless.
At the end of a memorable visit to the Dominican Republic, Robert Gerstner decided to commission a souvenir. He’d been fascinated by the aromas of cigars being rolled and boxed during a factory tour, so he asked his friend and travelling companion, the perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, if he could bottle the scent.
“I didn’t really think there were any great tobacco fragrances out there,” Gerstner says, and he would know. For nearly 30 years he’s run Aedes, a New York City perfume shop that offers exclusive scents, including an in-house collection called Aedes de Venustas. The newest, Café Tabac, debuted last December and is the product of Duchaufour’s efforts. It’s named for the Big Apple’s long-shuttered supermodel hangout, but the scent is redolent of the Dominican Republic’s key export.
Since then, a raft of houses have launched scents that are either directly evocative of, or otherwise inspired by, specific destinations—a trend that makes sense given our near-insatiable thirst for visiting new places. “Locations are one of the main things fragrances stir up in you,” Gerstner says.
“It just happens that you get inspired by travelling.”
Arquiste A Grove by the Sea
Lopud, Croatia
This small island in the Adriatic Sea has forests of pine, cypress and some of the tallest palms in Europe. The scent, created with perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, captures the sea air that blows through their leaves and fronds to combine with the crisp aroma of locally grown thyme, rosemary and figs. Around $330 for 100 ml
Louis Vuitton Lovers
Virginia, USA
Pharrell Williams asked Vuitton’s in-house master perfumer Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud to capture the energy of sunshine. The result—named in reference to Williams’s home state, Virginia (which, they say, is for lovers)—is a bright, lively blend of galbanum, cedarwood, sandalwood and ginger. $535 for 100 ml
Perfumehead La La Love
Los Angeles, USA
Consider this an olfactory ode to the City of Angels creatives who work as hard as they play. Perfumer Constance Georges-Picot’s gourmand concoction smells like a cocktail you could easily have one
too many of, with boozy Cognac notes mixing it up with vanilla absolute, incense, sandalwood and musk. Around $645 for 50 ml
Memo Paris Cappadocia
Cappadocia, Turkey
Turkey is among the world’s foremost saffron producers, and the spice’s earthy, tea-like scent takes centre stage in this effort by nose Gaël Montero. He balanced it with sandalwood, benzoin, myrrh and jasmine to create a warming scent that’s perfect for the cooler months but still works all year. $460 for 75 ml
Krigler Lindauer Löwe 08
Lindau, Germany
Bavaria’s answer to Capri, Lindau is a colourful island-resort town on the eastern edge of Lake Constance. Perfumer Albert Krigler loved it here so much that he dedicated a scent to the destination in 1908. His great-grandson Ben recently re-released the juice—a combination of green tea, geranium, amber and cedarwood—just this June. Around $960 for 100 ml
Cartier is a brand synonymous with lavish city living. Yet despite its swathe of multi-storey monuments to all things brilliant, it’s a rather unassuming Maison, set amidst the rolling green fields of La Chaux-de-Fond, where the house’s most special brand of magic is woven.
Seasoned connoisseurs of fine watches and jewellery are now well familiar with the works of the Maison des Métiers d’art—a special workshop set up by Cartier in late 2014 to serve as a temple of traditional craftsmanship. Home to a host of artisans, many of whom have been working for Cartier for years, it has since become the de facto birthplace for Cartier’s most limited and special creations, bridging the space between haute jewellery and high horology while providing a unique ecosystem where one can influence the other.
Now a decade into its significant life, the Maison des Métiers d’art is celebrating ten years of growth and evolution. It has transformed from a special preserve for a once-threatened generation of artisans into a place where a new set of pioneering artists and craftspeople can emerge and thrive.
As guests and visitors look on, metalworkers and enamel artists create exquisite works of art using techniques and traditions once on the verge of extinction while innovative and experimenting with their own. Precious metal workers use granulation and filigree, techniques that date back to well before the start of the common era, to create one-of-a-kind reliefs.
Elsewhere, composers, engravers, and master setters experiment across experimental and traditional realms, working with everything from the most precious gems to simple stone, wood, and straw to produce pieces that, regardless of their composition, push the brand’s boundaries of creativity and attention to detail. A typical piece by the Maison des Métiers d’art takes hundreds of hours to produce.
In a world of luxury often defined by sales figures and splashy celebrity endorsements, the artistic merits of a house like Cartier can sometimes be in danger of getting lost among the noise. However, in this revered Maison, one is reminded of the craftsmanship and creativity that sets some institutions apart from the rest.
Los Angeles does not want for star wattage, but for years now, the city’s hotel scene has been a little lacklustre. So news that the beloved Montage hotel has been completely redone under the Maybourne brand (the British powerhouse that operates Claridge’s, The Connaught, and Berkeley Hotels in London, and the recently opened Maybourne Riviera on the Côte d’Azur) should come as a boon to Australians looking for a new Tinseltown bolthole.
Situated within Beverly Hills’ famous Golden Triangle, just north of Wilshire Boulevard and Four Season’s Beverly Wilshire, and one block from the world-renowned luxury retailers, restaurants and celeb-spotting of Rodeo Drive, The Maybourne Beverly Hills offers a chic retreat from the designer flexing at its doorstep; a rare escape in the heart of this storied enclave that flies under the radar like a cap-wearing celeb dodging the paparazzi.
Set amid the manicured, Mediterranean-style Beverly Cañon Gardens plaza, which unfolds from the hotel’s west entrance, the new incarnation of Montage Beverly Hills (55 suites and 20 private residences, each with a balcony or patio with a courtyard or city view) still evokes the grand estates of Old Hollywood while feeling like you’re in a European mainstay.
Revealing a restrained new guestroom and suite design by Bryan O’Sullivan, a blue-chip art collection and some of the most solicitous staff in town, the Maybourne speaks in a laid-back Californian accent but still holds true to the luxury touchpoints of five-star service for which one of the world’s most exclusive neighbourhoods—and hotel brands—is known.
“It’s reassuringly British when it comes to service—it’s a culture of yes,” says Linden Pride, the Australian restaurant and bar owner behind the award-winning Caffe Dante in New York and Bobbie’s, the new speakeasy opening this month below Neil Perry’s new Song Bird restaurant in Sydney’s Double Bay (page 40). Pride should know; he lived at the Maybourne for almost a year while he and his partner, Nathalie Hudson, set up Dante, the stunning new restaurant and bar on the hotel’s ninth-floor rooftop. “Looking out from the roof onto lemon and olive trees, it’s easy to forget that you’re in Southern California, not Europe.”
Opened last year, Dante has quickly become one of the hottest reservations in town, luring in celebrities from Baz Luhrmann and Catherine Martin to the entire Real Madrid soccer team. Like its sister outposts in New York (besides the Greenwich Village original, a West Village location opened in 2020), the focus here is on non-threatening antipasti and aperitivi in a produce-driven menu of fresh familiar stalwarts, with the addition of wood-fired dishes from a giant pizza oven at the heart of the room. Just as it does in New York, a negroni cart does the rounds, and each afternoon is welcomed with a martini happy hour.
It’s all fittingly Cali-chill. The only drama in the place is a striking ceiling fresco by Los Angeles artist Abel Macias, which dominates the 146-seat room. “Nathalie and I had just been to Europe when we decided to open up here,” Pride recalls, “and the Sistine Chapel blew us away. When we saw the domed ceiling in this room it was a no-brainer.”
Dante joins a string of newcomers in the area, including New York transplants Café Boulud, Marea and Cipriani. Don’t look now, but with arrivals like the Maybourne and Dante, one of the world’s stuffiest cities—yes, Beverly Hills is its own 14.8 km² metropolis—might just be entering a new golden age.
Quick and easy yacht access. Arrival by seaplane. A touch of caviar and vintage Champagne to kick things off? Catalina has in spades what the Emerald City is truly famous for. Even after three decades of service, this Rose Bay fixture remains a desirable address.
Afternoons and evenings here always manage to etch themselves on the memory for years to come. And this year, as Catalina marks its 30 anniversary, it’s appropriate to raise a glass to this institution’s winning formula that balances a dramatic outlook with a calming interior.
Whether you’re watching the seaplanes take off by day or being mesmerised by the shadow play of seagulls on the curving terrace by night, Sydney Harbour provides a stunning backdrop.
It’s a magical setting that is made sweeter by how little the place has changed.
Executive Chef Mark Axisa and Head Chef Alan O’Keeffe have established a reputation for bright clean flavours and healthy-ish fare. Produce and textures on the menu are simple but never staid and unlike many chefs who get way too tricky in the kitchen, Catalina’s chefs have created a menu that is full of dishes you actually want to eat.
It includes Glacier 51 toothfish served with a cigar of spanner crab roulade, and juicy Spanish mackerel cooked to perfection in red curry sauce with crunchy sugar snap peas. To up the ante this summer you can also indulge in a delicious Rock lobster risotto, order Catalina’s signature suckling pig or hail down their new roaming dessert cocktail trolley (created by designer du jour David Caon).
“We’re about to celebrate 30 years, which is an achievement we’re very proud of,” said owner and founder Judy McMahon at Veuve Clicquot’s 2015 La Grande Dame launch in August.
Dressed in an immaculate white head-to-toe outfit, McMahon was quick to acknowledge the commitment and support of her children James and Kate who have stepped up to the plate since the passing of her late husband, Michael, in early 2020.
The new guard is flying the flag for fine dining in his honour, serving plenty of freshly shucked Sydney rock oysters, pouring energetic wines from all over the world and maintaining an elegant continuum beloved by Sydney locals.
And because everything tastes better with a view, there’s really no better place to unwind that here, with a fine glass of Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame rosé Champagne and a trout and herring roe churro.
There are times when bells and whistles like helium valves, jumbo bezels, and lume-slathered markers should be kept firmly in the storage drawer in favour of something more understated and composed.
Holiday galas, formal festive dinners, and black-tie events call for a solid, classic dress watch. Except that it should be a step up in some way from the classic day watch: a platinum case, a status-conferring high complication (one that is rendered with tasteful discretion), or a pop of subtle sparkle by way of diamond highlights or a rare stone dial. Here are 10 possibilities that are poised, elegant, and quietly luxurious for the holiday season—although, with the appeal of the dress watch on the rise, you should consider these year round.
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001
The Ellipse, first introduced in 1968, is one of the many shaped watches that emerged as a new genre during the late sixties and early ’70s. The Ellipse, despite being known for its distinctive chain bracelets, has always been a favorite of male collectors. Patek revived it this year after 15 years in development, and equipped it with the ultra-thin caliber 240, which makes it the slimmest watch in the Patek Philippe regular collection: perfect for slipping neatly under a crisp French cuff. $89,817
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Chronograph Tourbillon Collection Excellence Platine
The Platinum Excellence line is a capsule collection, produced occasionally, only in limited editions (50 for this one), and always in platinum, including the dial, crown, pushers and buckle. Even the stitches of the leather strap are a mix of silk and platinum. Since it’s a chronograph, you can use it as a countdown function at New Year’s Eve parties, and in the process, show off the tourbillon in the 12 o’clock position. Price upon request.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Platinum
Since taking over as CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier in 2021, Guido Terreni has leaned into the brand’s legacy as a maker of high-level classic dress watches. Not by making dramatic statement pieces but by doubling down on refinement. “We are seeing a rediscovery of sartorialism, which is booming as a business,” says Terreni. “Gentlemen in their thirties are rediscovering how beautiful it is to dress well.” Enough said. $138,693
Breguet Classique Ref. 7637 Repetition Minutes
If any brand can stake a claim to the word “Classique,” it’s Breguet. The Ref. 7637 is the epitome of quiet elegance. While it appears low key on the dial, inside it comes equipped with watchmaking’s crème de la crème complication, the minute repeater. The hands and coin-edge caseband are pure Breguet, and the grand feu enamel dial and elegant star-shaped minute markers (with stylized fleur-de-lys at five-minute intervals) are subtly scream luxury. It contains the hand-wound caliber 567.2, which is so outstandingly decorated that flipping the case over to admire it is a must. Price upon request.
Rolex Perpetual 1908
Rolex drops its sports watch persona for a moment with this new collection that demonstrates it also knows how to do classic dress watches. The rice-grain guilloché pattern on the dial is everything, but especially here in the signature ice blue that Rolex reserves for its platinum editions. It’s a colour that true aficionados will recognise from across the room as an elite model from the mighty Crown. $46,181.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon
High complications are made for moments of high occasion and pretension, but only if they are elegantly rendered. This souped-up Royal Oak is a long way from the RO’s sports watch roots. It’s an openworked tourbillon cased in AP’s proprietary sand gold alloy—a colour that hovers between white and pink gold—and looks understated compared to most all-gold watches. CHF 250,000 (about $434,912)
Piaget Andy Warhol
Until this year, Piaget called this the Black Tie collection, but because the model, which was originally launched in the 1980s, was worn by Andy Warhol, Piaget received permission from the artist’s estate this year to officially name it the Andy Warhol collection. This malachite version in white gold demonstrates one of Piaget’s prowess in the use of stone dials. Combined with a ruby stud set and cuff links, it’s made for the holiday season but will look sharp year round. $76,221
Laurent Ferrier GrandSport Tourbillon Pursuit
Yes, it’s a salmon dial, and yes, it has the word “sport” written right on the dial, so there’s no hiding that. Yet, Laurent Ferrier has a way of making a sports watch look like a classic dress watch. You can’t even see the tourbillon that is also advertised on the dial and finished to perfection. It’s a stellar example of the emphasis on of the versatility of watches that waver between the dress and sports watch category. It is powered by the manual-wound tourbillon caliber LF619.01 with a double balance spring and an 80-hour power reserve. $283,963
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack
This watch is the happy result of a marriage between tradition and modernity, with a classic case and minimalist markings coupled with state-of-the-art nanotechnology. The Vantablack dial (Vertically Aligned Nano Tube Arrays), an ultra-black coating that is considered the darkest substance in the world, puts the black in black tie. The subtle tourbillon hovering at 6 o’clock adds a punctuation of pizzazz to the otherwise stark dial. $123,299
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
The Tank became synonymous with dress watch when Cartier invented it in 1922, just as watches were emerging as something you could wear on the wrist rather than hidden in the pocket. It was worn mainly by the bourgeoisie to confirm their status. The brancards were inspired by army tanks, but the design now represents personal victories rather than war-time inspo. On this one, a frame of 150 diamonds surrounding a black laquer center square place it firmly in the black tie category. From $31,000