Watches & Wonders 2023

Let the games begin – from A. Lange & Sohne to Zenith, the first new releases have landed, with more to come. Here’s an initial look at the first drops.

By Oren Hartov, Victoria Gomelsky, Carol Besler, Paige Reddinger, Justin Fenner 27/03/2023

Watches & Wonders, the world’s biggest horological tradeshow, has arrived to deliver the year’s hottest new releases from the top luxury watchmakers.

So far, it’s shaping up to be a year in which many brands are revisiting established classics or recently minted heroes. Just before the show opened to journalists and retailers on Monday, several brands released a multitude of first looks, many of them familiar takes on memorable designs. A. Lange & Söhne revisited its one and only sports model, the Odysseus, and updated it with its first in-house automatic movement. Cartier rendered its Tank Normale anew, including a few complex skeletonised versions. Now that it’s achieved a laundry list of world records for the Octo Finissimo, Bulgari decided to focus on its Octo Roma collection and revealed two particularly elevated tourbillon models. And Van Cleef & Arpels delivered another round of the extraordinary table clocks that wowed the crowds at last year’s fair, which will please any very well-heeled clients that couldn’t get their hands on the $1 million-plus museum-worthy pieces.

There will, of course, be more to come. While Patek Philippe released images of a revamped Calatrava, its other releases (as well as Rolex’s breathlessly awaited new watches) will be shared later on Monday morning. For now, here’s a taste of what’s in store for watch enthusiasts this year.


A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph

A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus Chronograph
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus ChronographA. Lange & Söhne

The esteemed German watchmaker is doubling down on its 4-year-old Odysseus collection of steel sport models with the debut of a timepiece featuring the manufacture’s first automatic chronograph movement. Limited to 100 pieces, the new chronograph places a premium on precision and legibility. Powered by the new L156.1 calibre, which incorporates an ingenious mechanism for resetting the chronograph hand to zero, the piece is marked by a combination of brushed surfaces and chamfered edges that emphasise its openness, as well as a dial architecture designed to create the illusion of depth.

Case Size: 42.5 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Straps: Stainless steel bracelet


Bulgari Octo Roma Blue/Anthracite/White

Bulgari Octo Roma White and Anthracite

Bulgari’s Octo Roma collection reimagines many typical watchmaking tropes through the lens of Italian flair, incorporating octagonal shapes reminiscent of ancient Roman buildings and offering a case shape that feels distinctly fresh and compelling. Expanding the basic, time-and-date Roma model this year, Bulgari is adding blue, anthracite, and white-dialed models to the lineup, each of which includes the beautiful clous de Paris motif. (This pattern, which appears as a series of small pyramids, can be found on numerous high-end timepieces from various brands.)


Each model comes in a 41 mm Octo Roma case and is powered by the automatic Calibre BVL 191 movement with a power reserve of 42 hours. Equipped with hands and indices that pop against the textured dial via a liberal coating of Super-LumiNova, each ships with both a matching rubber strap and the collection’s signature stainless steel bracelet. With its sophisticated case architecture and new, eye-catching dial design, the Octo Roma has become a competitive entry in the luxury sports watch genre that any die-hard—and even jaded—watch guy or gal would be proud to own.

Case Size: 41 mm
Movement: Bulgari Calibre BVL 191 automatic
Power Reserve: 42 hours

Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph 

Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph
Bulgari Octo Roma ChronographBulgari

Debuting this year within the Octo Roma collection is a new chronograph whose design cues may be familiar to some from the complication’s presence within the Octo Finissimo family. Powered by the automatic, in-house Calibre BVL 399 movement—which is visible via a sapphire caseback—it features a triple-register chronograph display with a 30-minute counter, a 12-hour counter, and a running seconds counter, plus a date window at 4:30. Subtly integrated chronograph pushers, a crown flanked by dual crown guards, and case architecture boasting a mix of polished and brushed surfaces make for a visually compelling look.

The visual star of the show is the same clous de Paris motif from the time-and-date models, available in white, anthracite, or blue and featuring a liberal coating of Super-LumiNova for nighttime legibility. Measuring 12.4mm thick and water resistant to 100m, the Octo Roma Chronograph ships on a beautiful stainless steel bracelet and also comes with a rubber strap that matches the watch’s dial colour. With its striking aesthetics, beautifully designed case, in-house movement, and multiple straps, it’s a tempting alternative to something like the Speedmaster, Daytona, or an El Primero.

Case Size: 42 mm
Movement: Bulgari Calibre BVL 399 Automatic
Power Reserve: 42 hours


Bulgari Octo Roma Precious Tourbillon Lumière

Bulgari Octo Roma Precious Tourbillon Lumière
Bulgari Octo Roma Precious Tourbillon LumièreBulgari

A ladies’ offering, the Octo Roma Precious Tourbillon Lumière competes squarely with any Octo men’s watch for sheer horological firepower but pairs it with a positively breathtaking case with more diamonds than a De Beers showroom. Measuring 38mm in rose gold, it’s set with no less than 267 round, brilliant-cut diamonds, plus a bezel set with 48 more—plus a rose gold crown set with a cabochon-cut ruby. (And if that isn’t enough diamonds and precious metal for you, you should consider moving into Buckingham Palace, because you may very well be the Queen of England.)

And on to the timekeeping: Powered by the manually wound, skeletonised Calibre BVL 208, it features small, central hands poised above a tourbillon housed at 6 o’clock. The rose gold movement is entirely hand decorated and boasts 64 hours of power reserve—more than enough to power it through the weekend. The dial itself is set with diamonds and nine brilliant-cut rubies to indicate the hours—in case you needed more bling. (Total carat count: ~5.05 for the diamonds, and ~0.18 for the rubies.) Paired with a red alligator strap with a diamond-set folding buckle, this is surely a timepiece for the woman who has everything else.

Case Size: 38 mm
Movement: Panerai Calibre BVL 208 Hand-Wound
Power Reserve: 64 hours


Octo Roma Precious Naturalia

Bulgari Octo Roma Precious Naturalia
Bulgari Octo Roma Precious Naturalia Bulgari

Joining the Octo lineup is a precious metal doozy of a timepiece machined from gold and equipped with a flying tourbillon for good measure. Dubbed the Octo Roma Precious Naturalia, it celebrates the natural beauty of tiger’s eye, which is used in the construction of the dial indices. (More on that in a moment.) Housed in a 44mm, satin-brushed rose gold case measuring 11.35mm tall and water resistant to 50m, its stunning, skeletonised dial features a tiger’s eye plate with ample brown and gold accents, plus thin shavings of the same material that cover each of the 13 dial indices. Because of the unique properties of the stone, each dial is a one-of-a-kind piece of art.


Completing the gold aesthetic of the dial is a set of skeletonised hands and a flying tourbillon situated above 6 o’clock, plus a fully visible gear train. Powered by the manually wound, in-house BVL 206 movement with 64 hours of power reserve and paired with a brown alligator strap with a rose gold folding buckle, this is most certainly not a watch for someone who wants to fly under the radar—rather, it’s a prominent statement piece meant to exhibit every last ounce of Bulgari’s watchmaking savoir faire.

Case Size: 44 mm
Movement: Panerai BVL 206 Hand-Wound
Power Reserve: 64 hours

Bulgari Octo Roma Papillon Tourbillon and Striking Tourbillon Sapphire 

Bulgari Octo Roma Striking Papillon Tourbillon; Bulagri Octo Roma Striking Tourbillon Sapphire
Bulgari Octo Roma Striking Papillon Tourbillon; Bulgari Octo Roma Striking Tourbillon SapphireBulgari

For those for whom the standard Octo Roma offerings are insufficiently avant-garde, may we introduce the Octo Roma Striking Tourbillon Sapphire, which includes a unique complication: Housed in a 44mm titanium case with black DLC coating, it features a crown with a special push-button device at 3 o’clock. Engage this button, and a small red dot in the winding stem indicates that the crown can now be adjusted. Re-engage the button and the time setting is now deactivated, and the crown can be used for manual winding of the tourbillon-equipped movement.

With its completely transparent sapphire dial, mid-case, and back, the watch’s skeletonised movement—the Calibre BVL 206 with 64 hours of power reserve—is on full display. Bright green Super-LumiNova-filled indices and a white-tipped handset discreetly handle time-telling duties, while the flying tourbillon is situated above 6 o’clock. With its rubberised, black alligator strap with green stitching and titanium folding buckle, this futuristic offering is one of the standout models in the current Octo Roma collection, and proof that the Octo Finissimo line isn’t the only place where Bulgari’s most innovative watchmaking can be found.


Case Size: 44mm
Movement: Bulgari Calibre BVL 206 Hand-Wound
Power Reserve: 64 hours

Bulgari Octo Roma Striking Papillon Tourbillon


Sticking with the black DLC titanium theme, we have a striking-looking—(actually, “striking” is even in the name)—piece, also with a flying tourbillon, but with the addition of a special minute display and a jumping hour display. Dubbed the Octo Roma Striking Papillon Tourbillon and housed in a semi-tactical, very futuristic looking 44 mm Octo case measuring 11.9 mm thick and featuring a sapphire mid-case, its dial looks like something out of a cool science fiction novel.

A mix of blacks and greens and transparent surfaces, the dial features a central tourbillon with a jumping hour display poised above it, plus a semi-circular minute display below. Along this display traverses a “butterfly” minute counter with dual, diamond-shaped hands—once the first counter reaches the end of the 60-minute display, the hands rotate 180 degrees, and the secondary hand retraces the path back along the arc. Powered by the hand-wound Calibre BVL 348 movement with 60 hours of power reserve and lit with plenty of Super-LumiNova, it’s paired with a rubberised black alligator strap with green stitching and a titanium folding buckle.

Case Size: 44 mm
Movement: Bulgari Calibre BVL 348 Hand-Wound
Power Reserve: 60 hours


Cartier Privé

Cartier Cartier Privé Tank Normale
Cartier Cartier Privé Tank NormaleCartier

For the past seven years, Cartier has selected a historic model from its archives (say, the Crash, the Tank Cintrée, or the Cloche), given it a fresh new design spin, and marketed it as a numbered and limited edition under its sought-after Cartier Privé label, a “collector’s collection,” as the brand calls it.

Cartier Cartier Privé Skeletonized Tank Normale
Cartier Cartier Privé Skeletonised Tank NormaleCartier

New to Privé this year, the Tank Normale offers seven takes on Cartier’s defining timepiece, the 1917 Tank. They include an hour/minute version—in yellow gold with a brown alligator strap or in platinum with a black alligator strap—that takes its proportions and beveled sapphire crystal from the original, as well as a complicated and skeletonised model that features a 24-hour complication marked by a sun and crescent moon, in either yellow gold or platinum (the latter available with or without diamonds). And in a groovy nod to 1970s style, the collection for the first time includes two models that come on yellow gold or platinum bracelets.


Case Size: 32.6 mm x 25.7 mm for the basic Tank Normale; 35.2 mm x 27.8 mm for the skeletonised version
Case Material: 18k yellow gold and platinum
Power Reserve: 36-38 hours
Straps: Alligator straps in grey, brown, blue, and black, and 18k yellow gold and platinum bracelets

Clash [Un]Limited

Cartier Clash [Un]Limited
Cartier Clash [Un]LimitedCartier

Between its stylish mix of round and square shapes, and intriguing juxtaposition of faceted corners and beveled dials, the new Clash [Un]Limited watch evokes the legacy of Jeanne Toussaint, the legendary designer who, as director of Cartier’s high jewelry department from 1933 to 1970, “dared to provoke glittering collisions between preciousness and the industrial aesthetic of ball bearings,” according to a press release.

All five quartz-powered variations of the Clash [Un]Limited revel in contrasts (say, between brushed and satin finishes), but none as unexpectedly as the coloured stone version, which comes in an enchanting gem-set case distinguished by surprising pairings of brilliant white diamonds, bright red coral, and mint green chrysoprase.

Case Size: 18.4 x 32.7 mm for the small models
Case Material: 18k yellow, rose, white and purple gold
Straps: 18k yellow, rose, white, and purple gold bracelets


Cartier Santos Dumont
Cartier Santos DumontCartier

Cartier’s sextet of new Santos-Dumont styles includes a trio of manual-wind XL models in platinum, rose gold, and yellow gold. The standout features are dials decorated with Roman numerals cut directly in jasper, jade, and dumortierite, to match the colours of the cabochons on the winding crowns.

For anyone who enjoys gazing at a complex movement, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton watch—available in a case made of yellow gold, rose gold, or steel—is just the ticket.

Case Size: 46.6 mm x 33.9 mm for colourful versions, 31 mm for skeleton edition
Case Material: 18k rose gold, 18k yellow gold and platinum
Straps: Alligator straps in green, blue, grey, burgundy, and brown

Santos de Cartier

Cartier Santos
Cartier SantosCartier

The storied Santos line now includes three models featuring deeply saturated dials in green and navy blue, coated in a thin layer of tinted lacquer and applied by hand.


Case Size: 35.1 mm for the two medium models, and 39.8 mm for the large
Case Material: Steel
Straps: Interchangeable straps in steel and alligator


Cartier Tank Américaine
Cartier Tank AméricaineCartier

For more than a century, the Tank watch by Cartier, not to mention the family of timepieces it spawned, has adorned the wrists of the global elite. No wonder the Maison is perpetually recreating it. This year sees updates to three classic Tank models: the Tank Américaine, the Tank Française, and the Tank Louis Cartier.

The Tank Américaine was born in 1989 when the maison introduced a slender version of the model in a gently curved case reminiscent of the Tank Cintrée. For 2023, the house revisited the Tank Américaine in 11 new styles (nine featuring quartz movements) designed to be even slimmer. Available in all-gold and steel with a leather strap, rose gold and diamonds with a leather strap or diamond-paved white and rose gold with a metal bracelet, the Tank Américaine is proof that thin is perennially in.

Cartier Tank Française
Cartier Tank FrançaiseCartier

The Tank Française made its debut in 1996 in a chic metal bracelet style. Now, the quartz-powered steel watch features a revamped bracelet with a gentle curve to fit all wrists. Note the diamond-set brancards, which play off the model’s polished finishes and sunray-brushed dial.

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
Cartier Tank Louis CartierCartier

In 1921, Cartier widened the Tank’s case, refined its brancards and softened its edges to create the Tank Louis Cartier. New for this year is an LC model in yellow or rose gold on an alligator strap with a graphic motif on the dial rendered in three shades of gold—an homage to the Tank Must dials of the 1970s. The Tank Louis Cartier also comes in two minimalist coloured dial editions: one in lacquered burgundy and the other in a Platonic green, both encased in yellow gold. All three models feature the manual winding 1917 MC movement.

Case Size: 28 mm x 15.2 mm for the Tank Américaine mini, 35.4 mm x 19.4 mm for the Tank Américaine small, 44.4 mm x 24.4 mm for the Tank Américaine large, 25.7 mm x 21.2 mm for the Tank Française small, 32 mm x 27 mm for the Tank Française medium and 33.7 mm x 25.5 mm for the Tank Louis Cartier
Case Material: Steel, 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold, 18k white gold
Straps: Alligator straps in dark blue, dark brown, red, grey, taupe and green




J12 Eclipse Box Set

Chanel J12 Eclipse Box Set
Chanel J12 Eclipse Box SetChanel

Taken together, this set of seven watches, each a piece unique, is the horological equivalent of a solar eclipse. From the first watch, in all white ceramic, to the seventh watch, in all black, the timepieces—which come equipped with automatic calibers certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute—are gradually eclipsed by a black band that grows wider with each successive model.

Case Size: 38 mm
Case Material: Matte black and white ceramic 
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Straps: Matte black and white ceramic bracelet

Monsieur de Chanel Tourbillon

Monsieur de Chanel Tourbillon
Monsieur de Chanel TourbillonChanel

The fragment of meteorite that forms the dial of this striking black ceramic timepiece isn’t its only distinctive element. Set atop the cage of the flying tourbillon—marking the first time the Monsieur watch has featured the complication—is a lion head décor plate depicting the maison’s emblem. With the passing of each second, it spins in all its leonine majesty.

Case Size: 42 mm
Case Material: Matte black ceramic and steel
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Straps: Black nylon strap with black calfskin trim and lining




Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph

Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph
Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage ChronographChopard

Hand-wound chronographs are prized among collectors, and Chopard’s contribution to this elite genre, a 25-piece limited-edition flyback chronograph with Geneva Seal certification,  is likely to disappear fast. The L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph has a minimalist, no-date dial, and a case made of Lucent steel, Chopard’s proprietary steel alloy made of 80% recycled elements. Vintage details include the car-dashboard-style hour markers from 05-60 for chronograph minutes and seconds, along with mushroom-shaped pushers and eco-green dial with matching stitching on the strap. Modern technology allows for a sapphire caseback through which to admire the decorated movement, the star of the show (sapphire crystals weren’t around in the ’60s). The Chopard hand-wound flyback chronograph caliber L.U.C 03.07-L is chronometer certified, with a 60-hour power reserve. Finishes include rhodium-plated bridges, yokes, levers and column wheel, circular graining for the base, straight-graining for the chronograph components and a Côtes de Genève motif on the bridges.

Case Size: 42 mm by 14.55 mm
Case Material: Lucent steel
Power Reserve: 60 hours
Straps: Brown calfskin, green lining, green bridle stitching with pin buckle

Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph

Chopard Mille Miglia Chronographs
Chopard Mille Miglia ChronographsChopard

Chopard loves its traditions, and the annual Mille Miglia collector’s edition is one of is most enduring. Chopard has been timing the scenic race from Brescia to Rome since 1988 and co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has personally taken part in the race every year since, covering more than 30,000 competition miles. This year’s edition, the 36th in the annual series, is slightly smaller than others, at 40.5mm, which makes it a little more wearable (and perfect for a ladies’ wrist!).

Chopard Mille Miglia Chronograph
Chopard Mille Miglia ChronographChopard

The case, bezel and crowns are made of Lucent steel, a Chopard alloy that it says is 50% harder than conventional steel. There are four dial colour options, matched to the paintwork and interiors of classic cars: Verde Chiaro (light green) and Rosso Amarena (cherry red), Nero Corsa (racing black) and, on a two-tone steel and gold model, Grigio-Blue (grey blue). A tachymeter scale is essential for calculating speed and distances, and plenty of Grade XI Super-LumiNova helps to navigate after dark. A slim bezel maximises the depth of the dial.

Case Size: 40.5 mm by 12.88 mm
Case Material: Lucent steel or Lucent steel and 18k rose gold
Power Reserve: 54 hours
Straps: Black rubber with 1960s Dunlop racing tire motif or calfskin leather.



Chopard Imperiale

Chopard Imperiale
Chopard ImperialeChopard

The lotus flower is the signature motif of Chopard’s Imperiale collection. The model was launched in 1994, and the lotus motif has appeared in various ways on its dials, cases, crowns and movements ever since. In 2017, Chopard won the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the jewelry category with the Lotus Blanc, with diamond-set petals opening and closing at will on the dial. The new Imperiale depicts the lotus flower with overlapping petals within a polished rose gold lacework. Some of the gold petals are engraved and satin-brushed. These openworked petals are positioned against a disk that rotates once every 24 hours to represent night and day. After midnight, the star-studded sapphire dome representing night gives way to morning light represented by a white diamond sky. It was created using several artisanal techniques, starting with a mother-of-pearl disk that is lacquered in a cerulean gradient that, at night time, is decorated with seven gold-powder stars. Sapphires in six gradient shades of blue express the transition from day to night. Snow-set diamonds represent the daytime sky. The steady motion of the disk is driven by the L.U.C 96.30-L, with a 65-hour power reserve. Case, horns, bezel and inner dial ring are set with diamonds.

Case Size: 36 mm by 10.15 mm
Case Material: 18k rose gold
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Straps: Seamless blue pearlescent alligator with 18k gold pink buckle

Alpine Eagle 41 XPS

Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPSChopard

Chopard has been beefing up its Alpine Eagle collection recently, instilling the sporty model with complications and high watchmaking finishes. The new 41 XPS is a chronometer-certified, with a small seconds indicator, and is finished to the standards of the Poinçon de Genève. The ultra-thin (8mm) case is made of Lucent steel A223, which Chopard ays is ultra-resistant and takes a high polish, and it’s made of 85% recycled materials. Double barrels driving the flagship caliber L.U.C 96.40-L ensure a 65-hour power reserve. The “monte rose pink” dial is named for the second-highest mountain range in the Swiss Alps, and their characteristic pinkish shimmer. It resembles the salmon tint that is so popular in high-end sports watches at the moment. The finish is inspired by the eagle’s iris. It can be admired on a larger plane than previous models, since the bezel of this one is trimmed back.


Case Size: 41 mm by 8 mm
Case Material: Lucent steel A223
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Straps:  Lucent steel A223 bracelet



Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8-Day SBGD213 

Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8-Day SBGD213 
Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8-Day SBGD213 Grand Seiko

Every ounce of Grand Seiko’s watchmaking prowess is on display in the new SBGD213: a Spring Drive-powered masterpiece, it’s hand-set with 5.62 carats’ worth of diamonds, and 1.25 carats of blue sapphires. Housed in a truly magnificent, highly angular, Zaratsu-polished platinum case recalling the lion—Grand Seiko’s spirit animal, so to speak—it features 112 diamonds along its upper surfaces and a further 60 baguette-cut stones along the bezel. Even the crown is inset with a brilliant-cut sapphire that matches perfectly the deep blue colour of the dial.

Speaking of the dial: blue sapphires and baguette diamonds—each of which has been set by hand between pairs of 18K white gold rails—form the hour and minute indices. Executed by the Shinshu Watch Studio in the Shiojiri facility in Nagano prefecture, they make for a stunning display, and are further joined by an additional 48 diamonds and 12 blue sapphires around their periphery. Flipping the watch over reveals the Spring Drive movement sat beneath a sapphire caseback: With its one-piece bridge and Mt. Fuji-inspired design, the Caliber 9R01 is accurate to an impressive +/- 10 seconds per month and offers an 8-day power reserve due to three barrels arranged in sequence.


Case Size: 44.5 mm
Movement: Grand Seiko Caliber 9R01 Hand-Wound
Power Reserve: 8 days

Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Hand-engraved Manual-winding Spring Drive Limited Edition SBGZ009 

Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Manual-winding Spring Drive Limited Edition SBGZ009
Grand Seiko Masterpiece Collection Manual-winding Spring Drive Limited Edition SBGZ009Grand Seiko

A special limited-edition model within the Masterpiece Collection, the new SBGZ009 features a stunning, fully engraved case executed by hand in the town of Shiojiri by elite Grand Seiko craftsmen. Inspired by a forest of white birch trees at the foot of the North Yatsugatake Mountains in the eastern part of Shinshu, it’s housed in a 38.5mm platinum case and paired to a silver dial.

Superb craftsmanship characterises this timepiece: each case is polished to a distortion-free sheen via the Zaratsu technique, after which it’s hand engraved with individual grooves by engravers at the Shinshu Watch Studio. A silver dial in the brand’s beautiful birch pattern is joined by 14K white gold, diamond-cut hour markers, plus a handset with curved minute and seconds hands and a minute track that’s carved into the dial periphery. Powered by the manually wound Spring Drive Caliber 9R02 with an 84-hour power reserve, it’s accurate to an incredible one second per day, and comes paired to a black crocodile strap with three-fold clasp and push button release.

Case Size: 38.5mm
Movement: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Caliber 9R02
Power Reserve: 84 hours

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001 


A truly notable release, the Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001 is Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph. An entry within the Evolution 9 sports watch collection, it’s powered by the 9SC5, which chirps along at 10 beats per second and features dual barrels for a power reserve of three days, even when the chronograph is in operation—making it, according to GS’s research, the 10-beat chronograph with the longest power reserve on the market. Tested for 20 days to ensure that it meets the Grand Seiko Standard of +5 to -3 seconds per day, it’s also highly accurate and thoughtfully engineered.


Housed in a Zaratsu-polished 43.2mm titanium case with a box-shaped sapphire crystal featuring anti-reflective coating, paired to a matching bracelet with a three-fold clasp with push button release, and complemented with a screw-down crown and a sapphire case back, the Tentagraph has a handsome dial to match its impressive construction and movement: Executed in a blue “Mt. Iwate” pattern, it boasts a triple-register chronograph display, a date window at 4:30, beautifully polished, applied indices and hands, and a black ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale. Not bad for a first effort at a mechanical chronograph!

Case Size: 43.2 mm
Movement: Grand Seiko 9SC5
Power Reserve: 72 hours


Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Automatic Full Texalium-Carbon 

Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Automatic Full Texalium-Carbon 
Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Automatic Full Texalium-Carbon Hublot

Whether one loves or hates its case silhouettes, there’s simply no denying that Hublot is at the cutting edge of what it terms “the art of fusion”—integrating disparate materials that come together in a cohesive whole to tell a uniquely contemporary horological story. This year, this fusion has been put on full display in the form of the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Automatic Full Texalium-Carbon, a watch that surely knows few equals with regard to aesthetics, engineering, or creativity.

Measuring 43mm in ultra-lightweight carbon fiber, the watch is coated in Taxalium, a material that integrates fiberglass in a resin core with a thin layer of aluminum for increased impact resistance. Paired with a specially fabricated Texalium and carbon fiber strap that weighs just 26 grams and features individually machined and finished links, the Integrated Tourbillon Automatic is powered by the HUB6035 Manufacture Calibre movement, which features a micro-rotor and tourbillon as well as a 72-hour power reserve. With its mesmerizing looks, incredible engineering, and lightweight construction, it’s surely one of the standout references in the Big Bang lineup.


Case Size: 43 mm
Movement: Hublot HUB6035 Manufacture Calibre Automatic
Power Reserve: 72 hours

Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde Titanium 

Hublot MP-13 Tourbillion Retrograde Bi-Axial Titanium
Hublot Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde Titanium Hublot

2023 marks the entry of several firsts into the Hublot catalog, the latest of which is impossible to miss: the new 44mm Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde Titanium is an absolute bruiser of a watch combining—for the first time in the brand’s history—a tourbillon and retrograde display in one timepiece. And not just any tourbillon, mind you: Hublot’s status as a completely integrated manufacture has allowed it to develop a bi-axis tourbillon entirely in-house, a considerable horological feat. (The tourbillon makes one rotation every minute on one axis, and one rotation every 30 seconds on its second axis).

Skeletonised and suspended without the use of an upper movement bridge, this impressive complication—and the HUB6200 manually wound movement housing it—is visible via anti-reflective sapphire crystal on both sides of the case. An impressive 96-hour power reserve ensures that the mesmerizing tourbillon can run for days without the need for winding. Limited to just 50 numbered pieces, it’s made of satin-finished and polished titanium and comes paired to a black rubber strap.

Case Size: 44 mm
Movement: Hublot HUB6200 Manufacture Calibre Manual Winding
Power Reserve: 96 hours

Big Bang Square Unico Sapphire 

Hublot Big Bang Square Unico Sapphire
Hublot Big Bang Square Unico Sapphire Hublot

Building upon the success of 2022’s Square Big Bang Unico, Hublot is expanding the collection with a unique sapphire variant meant to showcase the brand’s tremendous savoir faire and expertise with cutting-edge materials. Part of a limited run of 250 pieces, this impressive, transparent timepiece has a water resistance of 50m despite the challenges of engineering not only a square case but one machined from multi-layered sapphire. Powered by an in-house movement dubbed the HUB1280, it features a 72-hour power reserve, automatic winding, and a column wheel flyback chronograph complication. All of this impressive clockwork can, of course, be admired via the watch’s openwork dial and sapphire case.


Fitted to a rubber strap with a titanium deployant clasp, the Big Bang Square Unico Sapphire is further joined by two sister references in black or white ceramic, which are powered by the same movement, but aren’t limited editions. Each watch features the “One Click” system, meaning its straps can easily be swapped out for other Hublot bracelets.

Case Size: 50 mm
Movement: Hublot HUB1280 Manufacture Calibre Automatic
Power Reserve: 72 hours


IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40IWC

IWC is reviving the Ingenieur Reference 1832, along with the man who created it, Gerald Genta, the maestro of watch design. The Ingenieur (“engineer” in French) was IWC’s ultimate answer to the Asian-invasion of affordable quartz watches and the decline of traditional gold dress watches in the 1970s. An early version of the Ingenieur was introduced in the late ’50s, but the model really came into its own when  IWC decided to enlist Genta in the 1970s to redesign it according to the spirit of the times. His brief was to create a robust yet elegant steel sports watch that would be accessible and unique. In 1976, Genta delivered the SL ref. 1832 Ingenieur in a 40mm steel case with an integrated steel bracelet, a checkerboard-pattern dial and a distinctive screw-on bezel with five recesses. Because 40mm seemed huge at the time, the watch was nicknamed the “Jumbo.” Genta had already designed Audemars Piguet’s now-iconic Royal Oak by then, and would go on to design Patek Philippe’s legendary Nautilus a year later. The new Ingenieur Automatic 40 is a tribute to the original 40mm Jumbo. Updates include a slightly curved case ring and a redesigned bracelet with closed links and no visible pins. On the original bezel, the screws were decorative, but on the new one, the five screws secure the bezel to the case ring, so they have a technical function as well. The dial has the same grid pattern as the original. Dial options include black, silver-plated or aqua. All contain the IWC-manufactured 32111 caliber with a power reserve of 72 hours.

Case Size: 40 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Straps: stainless steel bracelet with butterfly folding clasp


1858 Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition

1858 Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition
1858 Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Limited EditionMontblanc

In 1858, Charles-Ivan Robert opened a workshop on the site of an ancient mill in the Swiss village of Villeret. In homage to his fascination with Roman mythology, he named it Fabrique d’Horlogerie Minerva. The firm survived the ravages of the 1970s, clinging to its independence until 2006, when it was acquired by Financière Richemont and transferred to Montblanc.

In the intervening years, the German brand has used Minerva’s legacy as a springboard for contemporary creations in its 1858 collection—chief among them the new 1858 Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph, available in a limited edition of 88 pieces. Equipped with a historic hand-wound Minerva MB M16.29 movement that’s been flipped over so its complexity is visible on the dial, the watch comes in a steel case with a black coating brushed with quartzite and limestones from the nearby mountains, lending the watch a uniquely distressed look that belies its elegance.


Case Size: 43 mm
Case Material: Distressed steel
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Straps: Black nubuck alligator leather strap

1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition
Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited EditionMontblanc

The Nepal-born mountaineer Nimsdai Purja is the inspiration for Montblanc’s new limited edition Geosphere automatic chronograph, a limited edition of 290 pieces that features a worldtime complication complete with two 3D globes—the Northern Hemisphere at 12 o’clock and the Southern Hemisphere at six o’clock. The former bears 14 orange dots, marking the location of the world’s 8,000+-meter peaks.

On the back of the watch’s 44 mm titanium case, a 3D coloured laser engraving depicts the list of the 14 peaks, the name of the watch, two inspirational quotes from Nimsdai and three Himalayan prayer flags for good fortune. Last but not least, the watch comes with an interchangeable anthracite textile strap that borrows its design from a rope, a tool that no mountaineer can do without.

Case Size: 44 mm
Case Material: Titanium
Power Reserve: 46 hours
Straps: Interchangeable anthracite textile strap




Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar 

Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar 
Panerai Radiomir Annual Calendar Panerai

Famed for its simple, time-only military watches, Panerai has been steadily expanding its offerings to include more complicated pieces executed in new, forward-thinking materials. New this year is a complication that has never before been part of the Panerai oeuvre—namely, an annual calendar. Housed within a 45mm Radiomir cushion case with “wire”-type lugs and onion crown, the PAM01363 features Goldtech construction, combining platinum and copper for a red appearance. Its sun-brushed blue gradient dial is an exercise in legibility, with a day-date display at 3 o’clock, a running seconds display at 9 o’clock, and an outer, rotating month disc with a fixed arrow at 3 o’clock as an indicator. Of course, the famous Radiomir “sandwich” dial is also present and accounted for.

Also available is a special Experience edition, the reference PAM01432. Purchasing this Platinumtech-cased beauty with its sun-brushed burgundy dial will get you a ticket to a Panerai-led experience in Rome, with “events that combine artisanal know-how, culture, and tours of historical sites.” Whichever reference you spring for, you’re getting an incredible, complicated timepiece powered by the P.9010/AC automatic movement, with 40 jewels, dual barrels, and 316 components.

Case Size: 45 mm
Movement: Panerai P.9010/AC Automatic
Power Reserve: 72 hours

Panerai Radiomir California PAM01349

Panerai Radiomir California PAM01349
Panerai Radiomir California PAM01349Panerai

While Panerai has long produced a version of its famed “California dial” Radiomir in the positively enormous size of 47mm, it has never ventured smaller. This year, the Italian-founded military outfitter has finally seen fit to shrink this model down to something that’s (slightly) more wearable for someone with a sub-8-inch wrist: Please join us in welcoming the 45mm Radiomir California PAM01349! With a deep green dial, this one is a playful twist on the typical “California” formula.

Taking inspiration from the historical reference 3646, it features the famous half-Roman, half-Arabic numerals of the “California” look, plus an outer railroad minute track and a lumed, blued steel sword handset. Cased in Brunito eSteel—a type of recycled metal with its origins in different industries—the watch features brand new hand finishing that gives it a cool, vintage look. It’s powered by the hand-wound Calibre P.5000 with an 8-day power reserve, and comes paired to a calf leather strap in dark brown with contrast stitching.

Case Size: 45 mm
Case Material: Brunito eSteel
Movement: Panerai Calibre P.5000 Hand-Wound
Power Reserve: 8 days


Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorno

Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorno 
Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorno Panerai

Available in two compelling colours, the new Radiomir Otto Giorno recalls some of the earliest Panerai models made exclusively for military use in the 1930s. Housed in a 45mm e-Steel case whose PVD exterior is hand finished for a unique, vintage-inspired look, the watch features most of the characteristics that fans have come to expect from the typical Panerai diver: a highly legible “sandwich” dial with ample lume; a cushion case with “wire” lugs and an onion crown; and a hand-wound movement with an ample power reserve—in this case, the Calibre P.5000 that can run for eight days when fully wound, which lends the piece its name in Italian.

Both the dark brown (PAM0347) and blue (PAM01348) gradient dials transition from a darker edge to a lighter center, echoing the grainy, colour-changed appearance of certain early aluminum Panerai dials. Paired to Cuoio Toscano calf leather straps that match their respective dials and are meant to take on a distinct patina with time, each is a fitting tribute to the legacy of this most distinctive of specialist, legacy watchmakers.

Case Size: 45 mm
Movement: Panerai Calibre P.5000 Hand-Wound
Power Reserve: 8 days

Panerai Radiomir Quaranta in Goldtech

Panerai Radiomir Quaranta in Goldtech
Panerai Radiomir Quaranta in GoldtechPanerai

Did we mention that Panerai’s focus this year is on the Radiomir collection? (Well: Panerai’s focus this year is on the Radiomir collection.) So without further ado, here’s one more Radiomir release to tickle your vintage-inspired fancy: the Quaranta in Goldtech. Godltect is Panerai’s own proprietary blend of gold, platinum, and copper that shines in a bold red colour—and nowhere does it look better than constituting the case of this most contemporary of Radiomirs.


Shrunk down from its 47mm origins, the Quaranta is so named for its 40mm size. At just 10.15mm thick—the slimmest in the brand’s entire oeuvre—it makes for a highly wearable, everyday watch…provided you can pull off a hulking hunk of gold on an everyday basis. Paired to an elegant alligator strap and fitted with a radially brushed, white “sandwich” dial, it’s powered by the impressive Calibre P.9000, an automatic movement measuring just 4.2mm tall and boasting a three-day power reserve. Positioned as a genderless, versatile piece for any type person on any occasion, it’s certainly a stunner and a fabulous example of Panerai’s adaptation of military-born tech into a contemporary guise.

Case Size: 40mm
Movement: Panerai Calibre P.9000 Automatic
Power Reserve: 72 hours



Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007G-001, 6007G-010 & 6007G-011 


Patek Philippe just released three new Calatrava references, each with a white gold case, ebony dials and its own accent colour: red, yellow, or pale blue, rendered on the seconds track, seconds hand, indexes, and the stitching of the matching leather strap. The intriguing dials feature a crosshatch pattern reminiscent of carbon fiber, which matches the treatment on the strap, giving each of the trio a distinctly sporty feel.
Case Material: White gold
Straps: Leather with yellow, red, or blue stitching
Movement: Self-winding calibre 26-330 S C




Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split Seconds Chronograph

Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split Seconds Chronograph
Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split Seconds ChronographRoger Dubuis

Roger Dubuis watches seem to exist in two parallel universes. On the one hand, every single watch is finished in excruciating detail according to the traditional finishing conventions outlined by the Geneva Seal. On the other hand, every watch has the aesthetic of a hyper-modern, colourful, openworked, technically futuristic superwatch. They always look as if they have somehow exploded into being, in a good way. Roger Dubuis is also known for its tourbillons, and the Monovortex Split Seconds Chronograph has one of those, positioned on 360-degree conical trajectory. It also has a turborotor: a cylindrical oscillating weight that rotates perpendicular to its axis. The caliber RD114 movement also drives a split-seconds chronograph controlled by a double-column wheel. And there’s an angular, isotoxal-shaped minute counter, a tripartite hand that Roger Dubuis calls the (120° Rotating Minute Counter, with arms that carry the tens digits (0,1 or 2) while pointing out the units digit. The case is made of a mineral composite fiber (MCF that is 99.95 percent silica, made via a sheet molding compound (SMC) process. Duguis says it is 13 percent  lighter than SMC carbon. Certainly not your average traditional wristwatch.

Case Size: 47 mm
Case Material: Mineral composite fiber (MCF)
Straps: Bi-material fabric



Carrera Plasma Diamond d’Avant Garde

TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamond d'Avant Garde
TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamond d’Avant GardeTAG Heuer

Remember that stunning, diamond-encrusted TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamont d’Avant Garde from 2022? Well, there’s another one this year—and it’s even more diamond-y. The new Plasma sets artificial diamonds all throughout the bezel, bracelet, dial, crown, and more, making for a stealthily blingy watch—and we say “stealthy” because the entire case is black aluminum—that nevertheless delivers a serious horological punch in the form of the Calibre Heuer 02T Nanograph COSC movement with tourbillon.

A whopping 15.5 carats of lab-grown diamonds—124 of ‘em, for those who are counting—encrust every available centimeter of this timepiece. (Even the indices are diamonds!) Housed in a 44mm sandblasted aluminum case with a 2.5-carat diamond crown, its dial is composed of three polycrystalline diamond plates that form a sparkling surface against which a set of rhodium-plated hands indicate the time. The aforementioned Calibre Heuer 02T Nanograph boasts 65 hours of power reserve and extensive hand finishing, making this Plasma one heck of a statement piece, both outside and in.


Diameter: 44 mm
Movement: TAG Heuer Calibre Heuer 02T Nanograph COSC Automatic
Power Reserve: 65 hours

Aquaracer Professional 200

TAG Heuer Aquaracer 200
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 200TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer line is most typically associated with the high seas, representing as it does the famous chronograph maker’s take on the contemporary dive watch. However, utility and flair are, as we know, most decidedly not mutually exclusive. To wit, the new Aquaracer Professional 200—two solid-gold takes on the brand’s popular aquatic timepiece. Available in 18K 5N rose gold or 18K 3N yellow gold, both are thoroughly modern divers powered by the brand’s new manufacture movement, the COSC-certified Calibre TH31-00, which boasts an 80-hour power reserve and comes complete with a five-year warranty.

The first such Aquaracer models with solid gold cases and bezels, each 40mm sports watch features a contrasting, DLC-coated crown and a DLC-coated Grade 2 titanium caseback with a sapphire window. Water resistant to 200m and featuring striking fumé gradient dials (blue on the yellow gold model and black on the rose gold), they come paired to blue or black rubber straps with DLC Grade 2 titanium folding clasps. A liberal application of SuperLumi-Nova ensures visibility below or above the waves, making the Auqaracer Professional 2000 an excellent everyday option for summertime adventures.

(Meanwhile, if solid gold is too much gold, you may be interested in two new bi-colour editions of the gold Aquaracer Professional 200, available with bezel inlay, crown, and dial detailing in 18K yellow or rose gold. Two models at 40mm are powered by the automatic TAG Heuer Calibre 5, while two ladies’ models at 30mm feature fumé mother of pearl dials with diamond-set indices, and are powered by the automatic Calibre 9 movement.)


Diameter: 40 mm
Movement: TAG Heuer Calibre 5 Automatic
Power Reserve: 38 hours

Carrera Chronograph

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph
TAG Heuer Carrera ChronographTAG Heuer

The story of the Carrera Chronograph continues apace with the introduction of several new models this year. Two of these are fresh colourways that bring (even more) automotive influence to a watch designed way back in 1963 and named after the famed Carrera Panamericana race that took place in Mexico: Available in black or blue, each watch boasts bright orange pops of colour that recall the speedometers on vintage race cars. Measuring 42mm in stainless steel, each also features a triple-register chronograph with recessed hour and minute totalisers, a running seconds totaliser above 6 o’clock, a lumed sword handset, and an outer 1/5th-second track positioned along the rehaut.

Uniquely, both models have date windows placed in different spots on the dial: the blue variant’s date is situated within the running second’s display above 6 o’clock, while on the black model, it can be found below 12 o’clock, recalling certain vintage Carrera “Dato” models. Paired to matching calfskin leather straps in blue or black, each is powered by the automatic Calibre Heuer02 movement, is water resistant to 100m, and features a display caseback.

Case Size: 42 mm
Movement: TAG Heuer Calibre HEUER02 Automatic
Power Reserve: 80 hours

Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” 

TAG Heuer Carrer Chronograph "Glassbox"
TAG Heuer Carrer Chronograph “Glassbox”TAG Heuer

Perhaps the most exciting TAG Heuer release of the year for diehard Carrera fans, the new TAG Heuer Carrera “Glassbox” models are the direct descendants of the original 1963 racing chronograph—vintage reissues aside. Jack Heuer famously suffused his original Carrera watch with subtle midcentury influences found in the likes of Oscar Niemeyer’s architecture, or Ludwig Mies van der Rohe’s furniture, giving this small chronograph the subtleties and thoughtful touches that made it a horological classic. Likewise, the new 39m stainless steel “Glassbox” models—so called because their sapphire crystals resemble the profile of the acrylic crystals used on original 1960s watches—feature a bevy of thoughtful touches:


The curved sapphire crystal effortlessly flows over a tachymeter scale that runs along the dial edge, allowing the scale to be read from a wider variety of vantage points. This edge curves inward to reveal a 1/5th-seconds track along a flange that frames the applied dial indices, while a triple-register chronograph in recessed totalisers blends into a blue dial, or pops against a black main dial in a “panda” effect. A lumed sword handset and a date at 12 o’clock (black dial) or 6 o’clock (blue dial) finish the contemporary look. Powered by the automatic TH20-02 caliber—an updated version of the Heuer 02 chronograph movement with elevated finishing and bi-directional winding—round out this most excellent update to a true classic.

(There’s also a tourbillon-equipped version housed in a 42mm version of the Carrera case, powered by the automatic Calibre TH20-09 Automatic COSC movement and boasting a dual-register chronograph display. Paired to a blue calfskin strap, it’s a notable model within the greater catalog—and all the more special because of TAG Heuer’s positioning as more of an entry-level brand that doesn’t typically delve too far into such elite complications as the tourbillon.

Case Size: 42 mm
Movement: TAG Heuer Calibre TH20-09 Automatic COSC
Power Reserve: 65 hours



Ulysse Nardin Freak One

Ulysse Nardin Freak One
Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin Freak One

Ulysse Nardin is introducing the ultimate Freak in honor of the game-changing watch it launched in 2001. Designed by notable watchmaker and physicist Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, the Freak represented a fresh expression of watchmaking. It had no dial – just an open view of the movement. Nor did it have hands- time was indicated by a one-hour carrousel tourbillon that pointed to an index as it rotated. And instead of a crown, time was set by winding a device on the caseback that was connected to a system built into the bezel. The new Freak One recaptures the spirit of the original 2001 Freak and adopts the best innovations introduced in the eight variations that have appeared since. It is regulated by a silicon hairspring first introduced in 2008, along with an escapement treated with shock-resistant DIAMonSIL, was first applied to the Freak in 2007. It repeats the iconic notched bezel of the original 2001 Freak, the open gear train of the Freak Cruiser of 2013, and the legibility codes of the 2018 Freak Vision. The black DLC-coated titanium and rose gold detailing echoes other recent Freak iterations, such as last year’s Freak S.


Case Size: 44 mm by 12 mm
Case Material: Black DLC-coated titanium
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Straps: Black textured rubber, black alligator two-tone rubber


Traditionelle Tourbillon Retrograde

Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Retrograde
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon RetrogradeVacheron Constantin

It’s a retrograde year for Vacheron Constantin. The display, which requires extreme precision, is a longtime tradition for the brand, a complication in itself that became popular in the 1920s. Vacheron is applying it to three new models this year. The first is the Traditionelle Tourbillon Retrograde, which combines a tourbillon with a retrograde date display. The movement, automatic caliber 2162 R31, is visible on the openworked dial and given a slate grey NAC surface treatment that contrasts with the traditional features of the watch. The date is tracked on a retrograde arc across the top half of the dial. Once the arrow hand reaches the 31, it jumps back to the beginning at the next date change, starting at 1 again. The watch retains the main design codes of the Traditionelle line, including stepped round case and lugs, a fluted caseback, a slim bezel, a railway minute-track, bi-faceted Dauphine hands and gold baton-style hour-markers. It is finished to Geneva Hallmark standards.

Case Size: 41 mm x 11.07 mm
Case Material: 18k pink gold
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Straps: Gray alligator

Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-DateVacheron Constantin

The combination of platinum case, salmon dial and double retrograde is enough to tell you that this is a watch will be a fast sell-out. This boutique-only edition won’t last. The dial is classically minimalist, with needle-thin central hour and minute hands and eccentric details like long pointed hash marks at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, pearled 18k white gold minute markers and an 18k gold Maltese cross, the brand’s logo, at 12 o’clock. The date/day retrograde arcs at top and bottom are marked by skeletonised blued steel hands.

Case Size: 42.5 mm x 9.7 mm
Case Material: Platinum
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Straps: Blue alligator

Overseas Moonphase Retrograde

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moonphase Retrograde
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moonphase RetrogradeVacheron Constantin

This is Vacheron’s first sports watch with a retrograde display, and a very rare example of a retrograde moon phase arc. The moon phases are displayed through a 6 o’clock aperture and also read on a graduated from 0 to 29½, indicating the number of days elapsed since the last new moon. It’s a precision moon phase, requiring a one-day correction only once every 122 years. The retrograde date arc above is subtle, with a blue hand over the background of a blue dial. The watch retains the signature features of the Overseas collection: six-sided bezel evoking the Maltese cross, fluted crown, polished and satin-brushed finishes, translucent lacquered dial, luminescent hour-markers and hands. it is Geneva Hallmark certified.


Case Size: 41 mm x 10.48 mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Straps: Stainless steel; calfskin leather; blue rubber



Van Cleef & Arpels Planetarium Automaton

Van Cleef & Arpels Planetarium Automaton

One of Van Cleef’s introductions for 2023 is a universe unto itself. Following on the groundwork laid by its Planetarium watches, introduced in 2014, and a massive automaton clock unveiled at Watches and Wonders last year, is a new edition of the Planetarium Automoton clock that offers a new combination of materials. This version is complemented with a black Aventurine glass dial, which helps to make the sparkling sun at the center and the seven planets that revolve around it look like they’re floating in outer space. It’s even accompanied by a special melody created in partnership with Swiss musician Michel Tirabosco.

Dimensions: 50 cm x 66.5 cm
Power Reserve: 15 days
Movement: Automaton and mechanical movements including a planétarium and 11 other modules such as hour/minute display, perpetual calendar

Van Cleef & Arpels Floraison du Nénuphar Automaton 

Van Cleef & Arpels Floraison du Nénuphar Automaton 
Van Cleef & Arpels Floraison du Nénuphar Automaton Van Cleef & Arpels

This is the first of two unique automaton clocks Van Cleef & Arpels dedicated to nature and created with the help of the Francois Junod workshop. On command, they both open their floral crowns and reveal a butterfly hidden within the petals of the blooom atop the piece. This model, the Floraison du Nénuphar, hides its butterfly completely inside its lotus-like flowers. Once it opens, the butterfly appears to hover, and flaps its wings in a natural motion for a few seconds before returning to the interior of the flower, which closes around it to complete the spectacle. It tells time with a ring on the outside of the base of the clock, around which a winged figure revolves to mark the time.

Dimensions: 27 cm x 21.5 cm
Power Reserve: 8 days
Movement: Automaton and mechanical movements


Van Cleef & Arpels Éveil du Cyclamen Automata

Van Cleef & Arpels Éveil du Cyclamen Automata
Van Cleef & Arpels Éveil du Cyclamen AutomataVan Cleef & Arpels

This clock’s animation is similar, but the flowers that surround the butterfly reveal a little more than its fellow new debut. At the touch of the button, their stems fall away and allow the enamel-painted insect inside to float above the petals momentarily, where it also flaps its wings before disappearing inside the pink enamel petals once more.

Dimensions: 27 cm x 21.5 cm
Power Reserve: 8 days
Movement: Automaton and mechanical movements


Van Cleef & Arpels Prelée Collection
Van Cleef & Arpels Prelée CollectionVan Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels relaunched its Perlée collection last year with a new motif: beaded gold. It resembles the art of granulation, in which gold balls soldered onto a gold surface, but on the Perlée collection the effect is cast, so the row of beads is already solidly attached to the surface of the gold and then finished and polished by hand. Five new models in this delicately feminine collection (four with a 23mm case and one with a 30mm case) have decorative dials of pavé-set diamonds, guillochérose gold or guilloché mother-of pearl. Each comes with an interchangeable alligator strap along with second option from the collection. There is also a jewelry bracelet, composed of articulated gold beads.

Case Size: 23 mm or 30 mm
Case Material: 18k white or rose gold
Movement: quartz
Straps: Alligator or 18k gold bracelet

Precious Dance

Van Cleef & Arpels Precious Dance
Van Cleef & Arpels Precious DanceVan Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef takes the gold beaded motif to yet another level with this series of six pendant watches. The locket-like pendants are like small pocket watches, with gem-set cases that swivel open to reveal the time. Three are set with the big three precious gems: either sapphire, ruby or emeralds, in either rose or yellow gold, with matching gold chains. The cases of three others are set with ornamental stones. Bezels are ringed with diamonds and the dials are mother-of-pearl.

Case Material: 18k gold
Movement: quartz
Straps: 18k gold chain


Ludo Secret and Hexagone Macaron Secret

Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo Secret and Hexagone Macaron Secret
Van Cleef & Arpels Ludo Secret and Hexagone Macaron SecretVan Cleef & Arpels

The Ludo bracelet, with its tightly worked mesh-like links, is a signature Van Cleef & Arpels creation, first introduced in 1934, nearly a century ago. The flexible, brick-pattern meshwork culminates in a belt-buckle-like motif that is set with either diamonds or pink sapphires, which makes for an outstandingly creative dial surround. The Ludo Hexagone Macaron secret watch, inspired by an archival creation from 1941, has a cover entirely blanketed with mystery set emeralds. It is surrounded by arcs of large, prong-set diamonds set claw-style for intense light return. Emeralds are also set into the bracelet links for a final, elegantly assertive touch.

Case Material: 18k gold
Movement: quartz
Straps: 18k gold

Lady Féerie Rose

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie Rose
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Féerie RoseVan Cleef & Arpels

The magical, mysterious, enchanting fairy is a signature motif for Van Cleef & Arpels, and the Maison never seems to run out of ways to interpret the delicate sprite – often in the service of poetic complications. Here, she is interpreted in shades of pink in the form of translucent plique-à-jour and opaque enamel, along with pink sapphires. She points her magic wand to numerals on a retrograde arc to read the minutes, while the hours appear in a mother-of-pearl jump-hour window that appears to emerge from the white enamel clouds on which the fairy is poised. Her wings, head and body are formed with diamonds, which are also set into the bezel.

Case size: 33 mm
Case Material: 18-karat rose gold
Movement: Self-winding mechanical
Straps: Alligator


Zenith Pilot Automatic 

Zenith Pilot Automatic
Zenith Pilot AutomaticZenith

While you may more readily associate the pilot’s watch with Swiss brands such as IWC and German marques like Laco, Zenith has a longstanding history in the vertical that runs more than skin deep: It was way back in 1888 that the maison first filed a trademark for the French term “Pilote”—and subsequently, the English term “Pilot”—to be used on watches designed for those who would brave the skies. This year’s Pilot Automatic, then, represents a brand new, thoroughly contemporary chapter in the firm’s pilot’s watch saga: Measuring 40mm in stainless steel or black ceramic, it’s an exercise in the marriage of vintage-inspired tropes with modern watchmaking.

Both versions of the Pilot automatic feature rounded cases topped by flat-top, rounded bezels; the steel version boasts vertically satin-brushed surfaces and polished chamfers, while the black version is microblasted. Both likewise feature a modern take on the oversized “onion” crown of vintage pilot’s watches, which remains easy to manipulate—even with gloves on—and is devoid of crown guards. With its black opaline dial executed in horizontal grooves to echo the look of a vintage, corrugated metal plane, the Pilot Automatic still features large Arabic indices, an outer, white minute track, and a highly legible sword handset—echoes of classic pilot’s watches of years past.

Powered by the automatic Zenith El Primero 3620 movement with high-beat, 5Hz frequency and 60-hour power reserve, the watch comes paired with two straps: a black Cordura-effect rubber strap and a khaki Cordura-effect strap. Both feature triple-folding clasps with black PVD coating.

Case Size: 40 mm
Movement: Zenith El Primero 3620 Automatic
Power Reserve: 60 hours

Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback

Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback
Zenith Pilot Big Date FlybackZenith

Reserved and utilitarian as the Zenith Pilot Automatic is, Zenith must have felt there was room to riff on its revamped pilot’s watch collection and add a touch of je ne sais quois—which is precisely what the maison did when designing its Pilot Big Date Flyback. The name gives it all away: This awesome, modern take on the pilot’s watch trope includes an outsize date function, plus a chronograph with a flyback complication. Best of all: it doesn’t quite look like anything else on the market.

Measuring 42.5mm in black microblasted ceramic or stainless steel, it puts Zenith’s decades of chronograph-making expertise front and center by incorporating the El Primero 3600 movement, which has been modified specifically for these new references into the Caliber 3652. Automatically wound and beating at 5Hz, it powers an outsize date above 6 o’clock on the dial, as well as a flyback function, which allows the chronograph seconds hand to be reset to zero and re-engaged without a series of time-sucking button presses. And while the ceramic version is its own animal, the steel version pays tribute to the “Rainbow Flyback” chronograph from 1997, which was the brand’s first El Primera-based flyback model.

Case Size: 42.5 mm
Movement: Zenith El Primero 3652 Automatic
Power Reserve: 60 hours


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First Drive: The Porsche 911 S/T Is a Feral Beast That Handles the Road Like an Olympic Bobsledder

The commemorative model borrows underpinnings from the GT3 RS and includes a 518 hp engine.

By Basem Wasef 23/10/2023

The soul of any sports car comes down to the alchemy of its tuning—how the engine, suspension, and chassis blend into a chorus of sensations. The secret sauce of the new Porsche 911 S/T, developed as a tribute to the 60th anniversary of the brand’s flagship model, is more potent than most; in fact, it makes a serious case for being the most driver-focused 911 of all time.

Sharing the S/T designation with the homologation special from the 1960s, the (mostly) innocuously styled commemorative model borrows underpinnings from the more visually extroverted GT3 RS. Yet what the S/T, starting at $290,000, lacks in fender cutouts and massive spoilers it makes up for in directness: a flat-six power plant that revs to 9,000 rpm, a motorsport-derived double-wishbone suspension, and a manual gearbox. It’s a delightfully feral combination.

Rossen Gargolov

Whereas the automatic-transmission GT3 RS is ruthlessly configured for maximum downforce and minimum lap times, the S/T is dialed in for the road—particularly the Southern Italian ones on which we’re testing the car, which happen to be the very same used by product manager Uwe Braun, Andreas Preuninger, head of Porsche’s GT line, and racing legend Walter Röhrl to finalize its calibration. The car reacts to throttle pressure with eerie deftness, spinning its 518 hp engine with thrilling immediacy, thanks to shorter gear ratios.

The steering response is similarly transparent, as direct as an unfiltered Marlboro, and the body follows with the agility of an Olympic bobsledder. Some of that purity of feeling is the result of addition through subtraction: Power-sapping elements including a hydraulic clutch and rear-axle steering were ditched, which also enabled the battery to be downsized for even more weight savings. The final result, with its carbon-fiber body panels, thinner glass, magnesium wheels, and reduced sound deadening, is the lightest 992-series variant on record, with roughly the same mass as the esteemed 911 R from 2016.

Driver engagement is further bolstered by the astounding crispness of the short-throw gearbox. The S/T fits hand in glove with narrow twisties and epic sweepers, or really any stretch that rewards mechanical grip and the ability to juke through hairpin corners. The cabin experience is slightly less raucous than the 911 R, but more raw than the wingless 911 GT3 Touring, with an intrusive clatter at idle due to the single-mass flywheel and featherlight clutch. Porsche cognoscenti will no doubt view the disturbance in the same way that hardcore Ducatisti revere the tambourine-like rattle of a traditional dry clutch: as an analog badge of honor.

The main bragging right, though, may just be owning one. In a nod to the year the 911 debuted, only 1,963 examples of the S/T will be built. Considering the seven-year-old 911 R started life at$295,000 and has since fetched upwards of $790,000, this new lightweight could bring proportionately heavy returns—if you can be pried from behind the wheel long enough to sell it, that is.

Images by Rossen Gargolov

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Gentlemanly Restraint 

Art and science collide in the the newly released BR03A watch collection by Bell & Ross.

By Belinda Aucott 02/11/2023

In keeping with the brand’s design salute to aviation and military equipment, the pared-back face of the Bell & Ross BR03 Automatic takes its cue from the instrumentation in cockpits. It’s unabashedly minimal and confidently masculine style is set to make it a future classic.

Faithful to the codes that underpin the brand’s identity, the new utilitarian offerings sit within a smaller 41-mm case (a slight departure from the original at 42 mm Diver, Chrono or GMT.) and has a reduced lug width and slimmer hands. The changes extend to the watch movement, which has been updated with a BR-CAL.302 calibre. The watch is waterproof to 300 metres and offers a power reserve of 54 hours.

While the new collection offers an elegant sufficiency of colourways, from a stealthy black to more decorative bronze face with a tan strap, each is a faithful rendition of the stylish “rounded square, four-screw” motif that is Bell & Ross’s calling card.



For extra slickness, the all-black Phantom and Nightlum models have a stealthy, secret-agent appeal, offering up a new take on masculine restraint.

Yet even the more decorative styles, like the black face with contrasting army-green band, feel eminently versatile and easy to wear. The 60’s simplicity and legibility of the face is what makes it so distinctive and functional.

For example, the BR 03-92 Nightlum, with its black matte case and dial, and bright green indices and hands, offers a great contrast during the day and emits useful luminosity at night.

A watch that begs to be read, the the BR03-A stands up to scrutiny, and looks just as good next to a crisp, white cuff as it does at the end of a matte, black wetsuit.

That’s a claim not many watch collections can make. 

Explore the collection.

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Timeless Glamour & Music Aboard The Venice Simplon-Orient Express

Lose yourself in a luxury journey, aboard an Art Deco train from Paris

By Belinda Aucott 03/11/2023

Watching the unseen corners of Europe unfold gently outside your train, window can be thirsty work, right? That’s why Belmond Hotels is once again staging a culinary train journey from Paris to Venice, aboard the glittering Art Deco carriages of the Venice Simplon-Orient Express.

To celebrate diversity and inclusion in the LBTQ+ community, another unforgettable train ride is slated for 2 November.

On the journey, ample servings of decadent cuisine will be served and live entertainment will play looooong into the night. Trans-DJ Honey Dijon and Dresden’s Purple Disco Machine are both part of the disco-house line-up.

Passengers are encouraged to dress in black-tie or cocktail attire, before they head to the bar and dining carriages to enjoy their night, where they are promised ‘unapologetic extravagance’,.

Negronis, martinis, spritzes and sours will all be on offer as the sunlight fades.

So-hot-right-now French chef Jean Imbert is also in the kitchen rattling the pans for guests.

Imber puts a garden-green-goodness twist on Gallic traditions. He regularly cooks for the who’s-who. Imbert recently co-created a food concept for Dior in Paris, worked with Pharrell Williams to present a dinner in Miami, and he’s even been invited to Cheval Blanc St-Barth to cater luxe LVMH-owned property.

The young chef is vowing to create no less than ‘culinary perfection’ in motion with his own passion for fresh seasonal produce. There’ll be plenty of Beluga caviar, seared scallops, and lobster vol-au-vents.

“I want to create beautiful moments which complement the train, which is the true star,” says Imbert of his hands-on approach to delectable pastries and twists on elegant Euro classics.

“Its unique legacy is something we take pride in respecting, while evolving a new sense of style and purpose that will captivate a new generation.”

Check the timetable for the itinerary of lush inclusions here.

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From Electric Surfboards to Biodegradable Golf Balls: 8 Eco-Conscious Yacht Toys for Green and Clean Fun

Just add water and forget the eco-guilt.

By Gemma Harris 18/10/2023

Without toys, yachts would be kind of sedentary. There’s nothing wrong with an alfresco meal, sunsets on the flybridge and daily massages. But toys add zest to life on board, while creating a deeper connection with the water. These days, there are a growing number of options for eco-friendly gadgets and equipment that deliver a greener way to play. These eight toys range from do-it-yourself-propulsion (waterborne fitness bikes) to electric foiling boards, from kayaks made of 100 percent recycled plastics to non-toxic, biodegradable golf balls with fish food inside. Your on-water adrenaline rushes don’t always have to be about noise and gas fumes. They can be fun, silent, and eco-conscious.

A game of golf isn’t just for land. Guests can play their best handicap from the deck with Albus Golf’s eco-friendly golf balls. The ecological and biodegradable golf balls are 100 percent safe for marine flora and fauna, and manufactured with non-contaminating materials. The balls will biodegrade within 48 hours after hitting the ocean and release the fish food contained in their core. For a complete golfing experience, add a floating FunAir green. From $3100 (FunAir Yacht Golf) and $315 a box (golf balls).

Fliteboard Series 2.0

The future of surf is electric, and Fliteboard offers an emissions-free and environmentally friendly electric hydrofoil. Flying over the water has never been as efficient and low impact, using new technologies with less than 750 watts of electric power. This second series boasts various performance factors for all riding styles. It also features an increased trigger range from 20 to 40 degrees for more precision and control. Fliteboard designed this series for every possible foiling ability, from newbies to wave-carvers. From $22,000.

Manta 5 Hydrofoiler XE-1

Hailing from New Zealand and using America’s Cup technology, Manta 5 offers the first hydrofoil bike. The Hydrofoiler XE-1 replicates the cycling experience on the water. Powered by fitness-level pedaling and assisted by the onboard battery, top speeds can reach up to 19 km per hour. The two hydrofoils are carbon fibre, and the frame is aircraft-grade aluminium. The onboard Garmin computer will relay all the stats. The effortless gliding sensation will accompany you through a workout, exploration or just circling the boat. From $950.

Mo-Jet’s Jet Board

Imagine five toys in one: The Mo Jet delivers just that. From jet surfing, bodyboarding, and e-foiling to scooter diving. This versatile, German-built toy is perfect for those who cannot decide. The Mo-jet uses a cool modular system allowing you to switch between activities. Whether you want to stand, be dragged around or dive, you can have it all. It even has a life-saving module and a 2.8m rescue electric surfboard. Made from environmentally friendly and recyclable polyethene, it also ticks the eco-conscious boxes. Complete with an 11kW electric water jet, it charges in 75 mins, offering up to 30 mins of fun. Adrenaline junkies will also not be disappointed, since speed surges from 0 to 27 knots in 3 seconds. From $18,000.

Silent Yachts Tender ST400

Driven by innovation and solar energy, Silent Yachts recently launched its first electric tender, the ST400. The 13-footer has clean-cut lines and is built with either an electric jet drive or a conventional electric outboard engine. The ST400 reaches speeds above 20 knots. From $110,000.

Osiris Outdoor ‘Reprisal’ Kayak

Kayaks are ideal for preserving and protecting nature, but they’re usually manufactured with materials that will last decades longer than we will and therefore not too eco-friendly. Founded by US outdoor enthusiasts, Osiris Outdoor has created a new type of personal boat. “The Reprisal” kayak is manufactured in the US entirely from recycled plastics (around 27 kgs) that are purchased from recycling facilities. The sustainable manufacturing process isn’t its only selling point; the lightweight Reprisals have spacious storage compartments, rod holders and a watertight hatch for gadgets. Complete with a matte-black finish for a stylish look. From $1100.

The Fanatic Ray Eco SUP Paddleboard

Declared as the most sustainable SUP, the Ray Eco is the brainchild of the Zero Emissions Project and BoardLab, supported by Fanatic. Glass and carbon fibre have been replaced with sustainable Kiri tree wood. And you can forget toxic varnishes and resins; organic linseed oil has been used to seal the board and maintain its durability. This fast, light, and stable board is truly one of a kind, not available off the rack. This craftsman’s love for detail and preservation is another first-class quality of the board. From $10,000

Northern Light Composite X Clean Sailors EcoOptimist

One of the most popular, single-handed dinghies in sailing’s history, the tiny Optimist has undergone a sustainable revival. Northern Light Composites and not-for-profit Clean Sailors have teamed up to launch the first sustainable and recyclable Optimist. Using natural fibres and eco-sustainable resins, The EcoOptimist supports a new circular economy in yachting. OneSail also produces the sail with a low-carbon-footprint manufacturing process. From $6000.

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The 50 Best Cocktail Bars in the World, According to a New Ranking

The World’s 50 Best organisation gave the Spanish bar Sips top honours during an awards ceremony in Singapore.

By Tori Latham 18/10/2023

If you’re looking for the best bar in the world, you better head to Barcelona.
Sips, from the industry luminaries Simone Caporale and Marc Álvarez, was named the No. 1 bar on the planet in the latest World’s 50 Best Bars ranking. The organisation held its annual awards ceremony on Tuesday in Singapore, the first time it hosted the gathering in Asia. Sips, which only opened two years ago, moved up to the top spot from No. 3 last year.
“Sips was destined for greatness even before it rocketed into the list at No. 37 just a few short months after opening in 2021,” William Drew, the director of content for 50 Best, said in a statement.
“The bar seamlessly translates contemporary innovation and technical precision into a playful cocktail programme, accompanied by the warmest hospitality, making it a worthy winner of The World’s Best Bar 2023 title.”
Coming in second was North America’s best bar: New York City’s Double Chicken Please. The top five was rounded out by Mexico City’s Handshake Speakeasy, Barcelona’s Paradiso (last year’s No. 1), and London’s Connaught Bar. The highest new entry was Seoul’s Zest at No. 18, while the highest climber was Oslo’s Himkok, which moved up to No. 10 from No. 43 last year.
Barcelona may be home to two of the top five bars, but London has cemented its status as the cocktail capital of the world: The English city had five bars make the list, more than any other town represented. Along with Connaught Bar in the top five, Tayēr + Elementary came in at No. 8, and Satan’s Whiskers (No. 28), A Bar With Shapes for a Name (No. 35), and Scarfes Bar (No. 41) all made the grade too.
The United States similarly had a good showing this year. New York City, in particular, is home to a number of the best bars: Overstory (No. 17) and Katana Kitten (No. 27) joined Double Chicken Please on the list.
Elsewhere, Miami’s Café La Trova hit No. 24 and New Orleans’s Jewel of the South snuck in at No. 49, bringing the Big Easy back to the ranking for the first time since 2014.
To celebrate their accomplishments, all of this year’s winners deserve a drink—made by somebody else at least just this once.
Check out the full list of the 50 best bars in the world below.
1. Sips, Barcelona
2. Double Chicken Please, New York
3. Handshake Speakeasy, Mexico City
4. Paradiso, Barcelona
5. Connaught Bar, London
6. Little Red Door, Paris
7. Licorería Limantour, Mexico City
8. Tayēr + Elementary, London
9. Alquímico, Cartagena
10. Himkok, Oslo
11. Tres Monos, Buenos Aires
12. Line, Athens
13. BKK Social Club, Bangkok
14. Jigger & Pony, Singapore
15. Maybe Sammy, Sydney
16. Salmon Guru, Madrid
17. Overstory, New York
18. Zest, Seoul
19. Mahaniyom Cocktail Bar, Bangkok
20. Coa, Hong Kong
21. Drink Kong, Rome
22. Hanky Panky, Mexico City
23. Caretaker’s Cottage, Melbourne
24. Café La Trova, Miami
25. Baba au Rum, Athens
26. CoChinChina, Buenos Aires
27. Katana Kitten, New York
28. Satan’s Whiskers, London
29. Wax On, Berlin
30. Florería Atlántico, Buenos Aires
31. Röda Huset, Stockholm
32. Sago House, Singapore
33. Freni e Frizioni, Rome
34. Argo, Hong Kong
35. A Bar With Shapes for a Name, London
36. The SG Club, Tokyo
37. Bar Benfiddich, Tokyo
38. The Cambridge Public House, Paris
39. Panda & Sons, Edinburgh
40. Mimi Kakushi, Dubai
41. Scarfes Bar, London
42. 1930, Milan
43. Carnaval, Lima
44. L’Antiquario, Naples
45. Baltra Bar, Mexico City
46. Locale Firenze, Florence
47. The Clumsies, Athens
48. Atlas, Singapore
49. Jewel of the South, New Orleans
50. Galaxy Bar, Dubai

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