Vacheron Constantin’s New Unique Les Cabinotiers Watches

The musical pièce unique watches are masterpieces to rival the compositions that inspired them.

By Robin Swithinbank, Paige Reddinger 04/05/2020

Vacheron Constantin style and heritage director Christian Selmoni is talking about horse pee. Definitely “pee.” I checked (twice) in case I’d misheard, and yes, in between talk of métiers d’art and pièce unique chiming watches dreamed up by Geneva’s oldest watchmaker and given six-figure price tags, our conversation appears to have strayed into the stable yard.

Not without good reason. Many moons ago, Selmoni explains, watchmakers used horse urine, specifically that of mares, to harden the steel gongs found in early minute-repeating watches. They’d heat the steel up to around 1000 degrees Celsius and then cool it in the salty equine infusion, whereupon a crystallising process would take place, hardening the outside of the steel without compromising its flexibility.

“We don’t use this technique anymore,” says the 60-year-old, a knowing smile curling quietly across his face. “But what I can say is that if you are a customer of Les Cabinotiers and you would like your minute repeater to be dipped in pee, we are more than happy to accede to your request.”

Vacheron Lift

It’s mid-morning on a sizzling day in Singapore, and the longtime servant (30 years and counting) of the venerable Swiss maison has allowed himself the luxury of removing his jacket, but not his tie. Despite the heat and the jet lag, Selmoni is doing his best to offer up some temperate reflections on Vacheron Constantin’s latest Les Cabinotiers collection, dubbed La Musique du Temps. Although, as he’s keen to point out, it’s not a collection.

“It’s really not,” he says. “By definition, Les Cabinotiers is about pièces uniques. If we take our product offer like a pyramid, Les Cabinotiers is at the very top, the summit of Vacheron Constantin in terms of watchmaking and decorative crafts. I can’t compare it with the [core] collection. If we were a car manufacturer, it would be our Formula 1 team.”

The division behind Les Cabinotiers was founded in 2006. The idea, Selmoni explains, was “to reconnect with unique timepieces made to order in the past.” That tradition, he says, continued from the 18th century into the 20th and stopped not long after the Second World War.

At first, Les Cabinotiers was a commission-only service known as Atelier Cabinotiers. Much as a superyacht manufacturer could spec a boat to a customer’s tastes, so too would Vacheron create a personal timepiece to suit almost any whim. Selmoni describes the atelier as both “a small workshop dedicated to our clients’ desires” and “a laboratory to demonstrate what we are able to do in terms of watchmaking.”

One of its first watches, delivered for an unnamed client in 2011, was the Vladimir, an astronomical piece with 891 components and 17 complications. Despite being one of the most complicated watches ever made, it was merely a harbinger of what was to come. In 2015, conveniently coinciding with Vacheron’s 260th anniversary, the division delivered the Reference 57260 pocket watch, which, with 57 complications, remains by some margin the most complicated mechanical watch ever created.

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Sky Chart "A Celestial Note" Caseback

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Tourbillon Sky Chart “A Celestial Note” Caseback Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

“That was the first major order for Les Cabinotiers,” says Selmoni, noting that it was commissioned before the Vladimir. “It took us eight years to complete.”

After Louis Ferla took over as CEO of Vacheron Constantin in 2017, the atelier evolved. Instead of waiting for customer orders, the company decided to produce a series of one-off pieces and offer them to customers. In late 2017 it launched the concept in Kyoto; in 2018 it unveiled Les Cabinotiers Mécaniques Sauvages, inspired by the animal kingdom, in Paris.

Les Cabinotiers La Musique du Temps, being presented here in Singapore, is a 40-odd-piece collection—or perhaps a symphony?—of chiming watches, which couldn’t be more classical if they pranced around Salzburg in ruffs while trilling The Magic Flute. That they’re all one-offs—from the Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin, with its deceptively simple forward profile, to the gloriously complex Symphonia Grande Sonnerie “The Sixth Symphony” (which has grande and petite sonneries and a case engraved with part of the score from Beethoven’s Sixth Symphony)—beggars belief. All that effort—and for just one of each watch! Commensurate with their rarity, prices start around $235,000, and from there, says Selmoni, “the sky’s the limit.”

Vacheron Constantin 2015 Reference 57260 pocket watch

The 2015 Reference 57260 pocket watch is equipped with 57 complications. Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin’s expertise in the field of watches that sound the hour or chime the time on demand needs no introduction, but by amplifying those skills, the company has invited questions about its ambitions to advance chiming-watch technology. In recent years, loudness has become a new battleground, and Audemars Piguet and Ulysse Nardin have been turning up the volume.

Is Vacheron sounding its intentions to join the fray? “The answer could be yes, if we want to compete with the [Audemars Piguet] Supersonnerie, for example,” says Selmoni. “But I wish good luck to anyone who tries. No, our purpose is to be loud enough to be heard in a noisy environment, crystal clear and harmonious.”

Vacheron’s specific ambition, he explains, is to make better ultra-thin chiming watches, fusing two areas of fine watchmaking together. “The thinner the movement, the more difficult it is to have a clear and loud sound,” he says. “Why? Because the thinner the movement, the closer the gongs are to each other, so they enter into resonance.”

Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater calendar

The Minute Repeater calendar’s movement is just 5.70mm thick, housing 438 components. Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

To illustrate the difference, he produces a pair of watches: one of Vacheron’s ultra-thin minute repeaters powered by caliber 1731 (which is just 3.9mm thick) and one with the larger caliber 2755 QP (which has a perpetual calendar and is 7.9mm thick). I’m no Mozart and the room is full of chatter, but to my ear, the latter is richer, clearer and perhaps even louder. “It’s much more difficult to tune a minute repeater when the movement is so thin,” he says. “I think we can improve it.”

That development process will take place at the manufacture in Switzerland, but records of Vacheron’s aural achievements will be logged in the UK. The company now records the chimes of every minute repeater it makes in Studio 2 of London’s Abbey Road Studios, which still echoes with the sounds of the Beatles and Pink Floyd.

“We’ve actually been recording all our minute repeaters since 1992,” says Selmoni. “Because when the watches come back for service, we have to make sure that when we deliver them back, they sound the same.”

Vacheron Constantin Symphonia Grande Sonnerie

The Symphonia Grande Sonnerie features a treble clef tracking 20 hours of power reserve for the strikework. Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

Les Cabinotiers pieces, especially those with grand complications such as minute repeaters, have been popular with Asian buyers, thanks to an increase in spending power in China and elsewhere. To be sure, it’s no coincidence that the company has held two of the three collection previews in Asian cities. But given the current environment, the watches may have a hard time finding a home on the other side of the world. Luca Solca, a Geneva-based luxury analyst at Sanford C. Bernstein, says that, as a result of the novel coronavirus, he expects Chinese spending to fall 50 per cent in the first quarter of 2020, compared to the same period last year, and 30 per cent in the second quarter, before rebounding by 10 per cent in the second half of 2020. This forecast applies to wherever Chinese nationals spend money in aggregate, including mainland China, Hong Kong, Macau, Japan and Europe, which is to say everywhere. And those predictions operate on the assumption that the pandemic resolves swiftly.

Despite evidence suggesting Vacheron is heavily reliant on China (39 of its 89 boutiques are there), Selmoni insists that Les Cabinotiers isn’t targeted at the Chinese and that customers come from all over the world. (At press time, Covid-19 had become a global pandemic, and Chinese cases appeared to have peaked.) He also says anyone can buy or commission—that service continues—a Les Cabinotiers piece. The only qualifying criterion is being able to afford it.

“It’s a very simple, very natural process in which the client meets the brand and we do something together,” he says of the commissioned timepieces. “In 80 per cent of cases, our clients don’t know exactly what they want. They want a unique piece, they want something complicated, something special, but they have no real idea of what they want. We say the sky’s the limit, and we can prove it, because we did the 57260.”

The company does not reveal quantities of these one-offs—fuel for the mystique—but it appears likely there are now around 100 Les Cabinotiers pieces in circulation.

Vacheron Constantin Tourbillon High-Jewelry watch 2260 caliber

Hand assembly of the Openworked Tourbillon High-Jewelry watch’s 2260 caliber. Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

“I bought my Les Cabinotiers piece from a collector in Asia,” says Robert, an East Coast collector who runs a philanthropic-strategy company. “He offered it to me directly because we had met before and he knew I was a serious Vacheron Constantin collector. It’s a rose-gold watch with a grand feu enamel dial from 2008 and is a [custom] time-only version of a Historiques Chronomètre Royal 1907. It’s the only version with indigo-blue numerals and writing on the dial. It also has Vacheron’s signature Maltese cross on the dial just under the 6, which wasn’t included on the production model.”

Exchanges like this one almost always happen behind closed doors. Rebecca Ross, a Christie’s watch specialist, describes Les Cabinotiers as auction rarities. Only one has landed on the block in recent memory: a platinum double-faced perpetual-calendar minute repeater, which sold for around $682,000 at Christie’s Important Watches auction in March 2019 in Dubai.

Alex Ghotbi, head of watches for continental Europe and the Middle East at Phillips and a former Vacheron Constantin employee, says the reason for their scarcity on the open market is twofold: “Because Les Cabinotiers started off as bespoke pieces, they’re not necessarily easy to sell. But also, the owner doesn’t want to let go of it. They have a personal relationship with the watch.” Ghotbi attributes the lag in the non-custom pieces to the fact that the company has been making them for only a few years. “Vacheron isn’t one of these brands where people just buy a watch and flip it to make some cash,” says Ghotbi. “It’s not that kind of clientele and it’s not that kind of brand. Most of the people who buy these watches are buying them for the love of the mechanics and design. They want to hold on to them.”

Vacheron Constantin Tourbillon High-Jewelry watch 2260 caliber

Hand assembly of the Openworked Tourbillon High-Jewelry watch’s 2260 caliber. Courtesy of Vacheron Constantin

The commissioning client is also, literally, investing in a huge amount of time. When the watch is six figures or more, executing it can take years of patience, according to Ruediger Albers, president of Wempe Jewelers, one of New York City’s most important boutiques. “It’s usually an existing customer that inquires about Les Cabinotiers timepieces,” says Albers. “It’s a very exclusive little club, and they fall in love with all the different aspects of the artistry.”

“It’s a big responsibility to create Les Cabinotiers pieces,” says Selmoni. “These watches incorporate all our skills at Vacheron Constantin. The watches are very high value, but we have to make sure they’re not bling—that they embody all the qualities you would expect from Vacheron Constantin.”

Even if that means a dip in horse pee.

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A Michael Jordan Logoman Patch Card Just Sold for a Record $2.9 Million at Auction

The one-of-one piece is now the most expensive Jordan card to ever cross the auction block.

By Tori Latham 06/06/2024

Michael Jordan was a record-breaking athlete—and the legendary hooper is continuing to set records more than two decades after his (final) retirement from the game.

A one-of-one signed and game-used Jordan Logoman patch card just sold for an eye-popping USD$2.9 million, making it the most expensive Jordan card ever sold at auction. The 2003 card was part of the Goldin 100 auction, where it received 38 bids before finally hammering down for that multimillion-dollar total.

Goldin

The rare card, which was included in an Upper Deck Ultimate Collection, is the very first signed Logoman patch card with Jordan in a Chicago Bulls jersey. The patch itself is from Jordan’s peak with the Bulls, a team he led to six NBA championships. The bold blue autograph on the bottom of the card, meanwhile, was graded PSA 10. It’s unclear where the card was before 2022, when it was submitted to PSA for grading, and this is the first time it’s been offered in a public auction. Altogether, it’s considered to be the most exclusive Jordan autographed Logoman card in the world.

While Jordan is perhaps most well known for what he’s done on the court, the baller is no stranger to making waves on the auction block, too. Earlier this year, a set of his NBA Finals–worn sneakers achieved a bonkers $8 million during a Sotheby’s auction. Even then, that’s not the most someone has paid for Jordan memorabilia: In 2022, the athlete’s game-worn “Last Dance” Finals jersey hammered down for a whopping USD$10.1 million.

The recent card sale may not match those numbers, but almost USD$3 million is still a hefty sum to pay for a relatively compact item. And the card easily swept the rest of the Goldin 100 auction. The highest following lot was a Kobe Bryant jersey that the late Los Angeles Laker wore during a 2013 game. That piece of sports history ended up going home with someone for USD$1.2 million.

As the richest basketball player ever, with a net worth of $3.5 billion as of a year ago, Jordan himself is far outearning his card’s value. But it’s unlikely that he would have ever made that much money without paving the sort of path that makes his memorabilia so desirable when it hits the auction block.

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You Can Now Buy and Sell Luxury Watches and Jewellery on eBay’s Consignment Service

The e-tailer is making inroads on being a major marketplace for high-end goods.

By Tori Latham 06/06/2024

eBay is continuing to make inroads into the luxury industry.

The website on Tuesday expanded its consignment service to include high-end watches, jewellery, and footwear. Among the brands being accepted by the program are Christian Louboutin, Jimmy Choo, and Louis Vuitton for shoes; Chanel, David Yurman, and Neil Lane for jewellery; and Breguet, Girard-Perregaux, and Jaeger-LeCoultre for timepieces.

eBay’s consignment program debuted at the end of last year for handbags, and it added apparel to the mix in March. The service is meant to make selling high-end goods easier for those looking to offload their pieces, and more trustworthy for those hoping to buy them. The e-tailer has partnered with the company Linda’s Stuff to streamline the process: A seller fills out a simple intake form, then receives a prepaid and insured shipping label to send in their items. eBay and Linda’s Stuff photograph, price, and list the item, with the seller receiving a commission based on the final sale price. If a piece sells for $5,000 or more, for example, the seller receives 80 percent.

Since launching its consignment service, eBay has seen that items listed that way are selling for more than similar pieces listed on the website in the more traditional way. In just one example, a small quilted Chanel 19 flap bag consigned in December hurdled past the average sales price for the same purses sold on eBay by 45 percent.

In recent years, eBay has been training its efforts on making high-end, pre-owned items easier to sell and buy on its platform. It has implemented programs like Certified by Brand and Authenticity Guarantee to ensure that users feel confident when buying and selling luxury items on the website. And those sorts of used and refurbished items now compose 40 percent of eBay’s gross merchandise volume.

While it may seem a bit strange to sell your luxury items on eBay rather than a designated site like the RealReal, the e-tailer might be breaking out as the next big luxury marketplace, especially when it comes to pre-owned pieces.

 

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Four Seasons’ Private Jet Trips Will Take You to Asia, Africa, and Beyond in 2026

The six 2026 itineraries range from 13 to 21 days and cost between USD$159,000 and $229,000 per person.

By Rachel Cormack 06/06/2024

It’s never too early to start planning a vacation. Just ask Four Seasons.

The hospitality giant just unveiled its private jet itineraries for 2026, giving travelers a chance to book their next adventure a good two years in advance. Designed by a team of experts, the six journeys allow jet-setters to explore far-flung destinations in five-star luxury. You’ll fly the globe in the fully customized Four Seasons Airbus A321neo and stay in lavish Four Seasons hotels along the way. More importantly, guests can partake in curated experiences a cut above the typical tour.

“Our goal is to create connections with travelers of this generation and the next, fostering a legacy of transformative experiences that extend far beyond the journey,” Marc Speichert, executive vice president and chief commercial officer of Four Seasons, said in a statement.

Dubai at Jumeirah Beach
Four Seasons

The itineraries cater to a wide range of travelers, with differing lengths and routes. The 16-day Asia Unveiled trip, for instance, takes guests on a deep dive into the East, with stops in Tokyo, Bali, Angkor Wat, Hoi An, Bhutan, the Maldives, and Bangkok. Other adventures, like the 21-day International Intrigue journey, cover many global destinations from the African savannah to the city of Paris.

Wellness enthusiasts can indulge at Four Seasons Resort Maldives.
Four Seasons

Similarly, the experiences on offer are designed to appeal to a myriad of personality types, from culture vultures and history nerds to thrillseekers and gourmands. On the African Wonders trip, fitness buffs can join a Maasai guide for a nature walk in the Serengeti and then chill out in a meditation session led by an expert yogi. During Timeless Encounters, explorers can take a submarine scooter to Bora Bora’s renowned diving spots. With International Intrigue and Asia Unveiled, wellness enthusiasts indulge in lavish treatments at the Island Spa within Four Seasons Resort Maldives. Asia Unveiled also allows foodies to embark on a sushi masterclass with a Michelin-starred chef in Tokyo, while International Intrigue gives gluttons the chance to craft six courses with celebrated chefs in Mexico City’s local markets. In addition, history connoisseurs can visit famous landmarks like the Taj Mahal on Timeless Encounters. That is just a taste of the experiences on offer, too.

The 2026 itineraries range from 13 to 21 days and cost between USD$159,000 and $229,000 per person. To start planning your trip, visit the Four Seasons website or email the team at fourseasonsjet@fourseasons.com.

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Audemars Piguet Just Dropped a Bevy of New Watches—Including a Mini Royal Oak

From the new Royal Oak Mini to skeletonised 37 mm versions and a wild asymmetrical reissue, AP just slayed the spring watch season.

By Nick Scott, Paige Reddinger, Allen Farmelo 06/06/2024

Audemars Piguet isn’t resting on its laurels and that’s likely just how former longtime CEO, François-Henri Bennhamias, intended. The colourful head honcho left his post at the helm this past December, but he certainly left his mark by taking the brand to USD$2.7 billion in sales by 2023 before handing over the reins to newly minted CEO, Ilaria Resta, who was hired from global perfumery company, Firmenich. (Resta is the latest female addition to AP’s top brass following the appointment of Ginny Wright, who came from L’Oreal, as the CEO of North America.)

Given the lead time of R&D in watchmaking, the latest watches are certainly the mark of Bennhamias’s direction, and the watches are anything but wallflowers. You have wildly innovative new materials like a Royal Oak prototype proposed in Chroma Gold—a new technique blending white gold, rose gold, and yellow gold into a camouflage pattern—and a funky new “Crystal Sand” finish on the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 34 mm model. Meanwhile, Code 11.59 gets decked in an extraordinarily challenging arrangement of sapphires and diamonds, and the latest [Re]Master02 comes in a funky 1960s tv-shaped case with beveled sapphire crystal glass.

Here’s a look at how Audemars Piguet is flexing its craftsmanship muscles with these daring new timepieces.

Audemars Piguet

At 23 mm across, these are not the smallest Royal Oaks ever produced: a 20mm iteration was launched in 1997, alongside a 44mm Royal Oak Grande Complication, to celebrate the model’s 25th anniversary. They’re also not the sparkliest Royal Oaks: any number of abundantly gem-set models are all vying for that crown.

But the frosted gold trio before you are definitely amongst the most attention-grabbing Royal Oaks to date, residing as they do in the intersection of two Goldilocks zones: they’re well suited to slender-wristed wearers, but not so small that they invoke outmoded notions of femininity; and they’re mischievously sparkly, but packing only carefully measured flamboyance.

Audemars Piguet

Built from 18 carat yellow, white or pink frosted gold, the new pieces’ shimmering diamond-dust effect contrasts beautifully with the polished bevels. The case, bezel and bracelet have been created using a Florentine jewelry technique first applied to a Royal Oak in 2016, and again in 2018 with the help of Carolina Bucci. The frosting involves hand-hammering the metal using a diamond-tipped tool, and the effect is uniquely elegant and understated.

The dials—like that on Gérald Genta’s original steel game-changer—are uncluttered bar the petite tapisserie pattern. Unlike Genta’s original (a major counter-offensive salvo from the mechanical watches camp during the quartz crises) the beating heart for this trio is calibre 2730, a quartz movement with a seven-year battery life and easy-to-use deactivation mode.

Audemars Piguet

The smallest selfwinding Royal Oaks ever made remain Calibre 2062, a 29mm piece – created by former head of Audemars Piguet’s design office Jacqueline Dimier – which retained the codes of Genta’s original model created in 1976, and the gem-set derivative released shortly afterwards.

“These mini creations pay tribute not only to Audemars Piguet’s long tradition of miniature and jewellery watches, but also to the women who have left their mark on the history of the brand, including Jacqueline Dimier to whom we owe the first Royal Oak for women, and Carolina Bucci, the mastermind behind the Frosted Gold finish,” said Ilaria Resta Audemars Piguet’s Chief Executive Officer, in a statement.

Audemars Piguet

Sébastian Vivas—the maker’s Heritage and Museum Director—added that the three pieces “demonstrate the extraordinary plasticity of the Royal Oak collection, which transcends decades, gender, trends and dimensions.”

Size: 27 mm
Material: white, yellow and rose gold
Price: $51,700

Audemars Piguet

AP’s frosted gold Royal Oaks have been a hit for the brand since it debuted as a collaboration with Italian jeweler, Carolina Bucci in 2016. There have been several versions, including one with a mirrored dial, and now the nouveau classic is sporting a “Crystal Sand” finish.

Audemars Piguet

The 34 mm model’s dial offers a magnified and dramatized interpretation of the hammered case and surface of the bracelet. Made from embossed ruthenium crystal, the dial is then adorned with a stamping die via electroforming, a process that forms or grows metal parts onto a model. The color is achieved through a galvanic bath of both rhodium and gold coating to accentuate its 3D form.

Audemars Piguet

Size: 34 mm
Material: frosted gold
Price: $93,250

Audemars Piguet

Since 2010, Audemars Piguet’s Openworked Royal Oak models have been offered in sizes ranging between 39 mm (e.g., reference 15305) and 41 mm (e.g., reference 15407). Something about skeletonizing watches seems to cause many brands to reach for its larger cases: Perhaps it’s the larger dial for skeletonizing, or perhaps it’s a tendency to assume that men who like big watches will also prefer openworked dials. To be honest, I’ve long shared the latter assumption, though I’ve never had much reason to examine it before now.

Audemars Piguet often challenges our assumptions (consider the Spider Man Royal Oak, for example), and this new Openworked Double Balance Wheel Royal Oak at 37 mm in white or rose gold disregards assumptions about gender and watches while also underlining the small watch trend for men.

Audemars Piguet

Thirty-seven mm is pretty much the perfect “unisex” size. Many brands (for example, Grand Seiko, Lange, Rolex, Zentih) offer 37 mm watches that serve as a bridge between their men’s and women’s collections, and sometimes these brands will point that out. However, in its typical avant garde manner, Audemars Piguet is way ahead of this shifting norm—especially when compared to its counterparts in the Horological Holy Trinity, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, both of which offer 37 mm watches steered more obviously toward men or women with gem setting, or the lack thereof. By offering the Openworked Royal Oak at 37 mm, Audemars Piguet cleverly sidesteps that old-school his/hers conundrum.

Audemars Piguet

This watch is going to resonate with men who are continuing to lean toward smaller watches, and it’s going to resonate with women who are looking for a larger and more daring timepiece that won’t overpower (or simply overhang) their wrists. And this Royal Oak does all that gender bending by simply shrinking its skeletonized watch. In this regard alone, I think it’s a brilliant offering—and I’m not a big fan of openworked dials.

The dual balance wheel mechanism of caliber 3132 helps stabilize the balance staff in its ruby mount, which improves precision.
Audemars Piguet

With all that said, what’s really driving this watch’s avant garde nature is the movement, known as caliber 3132. The dual balance wheel is a unique approach to minimizing the tilt of the balance staff (the axil on which the balance wheel oscillates). When the balance wheel swings back and forth (like a pendulum), there is a tendency, due to inertia, for it to slightly tilt within its ruby mount. When the balance staff tilts (however slightly) gravity has its way with it, causing timing discrepancies in different positions (known as positional variance). By adding a second balance wheel (not just a second spring, as found in some movements), Audemars Piguet has added stabilizing mass to the mechanism, as well as a counter-force that further stabilizes the balance staff as it changes direction. Theoretically, this reduces tilt of the balance staff and reduces positional variance.

It also looks very cool, and you’ll get a good view from both the front and the back of this watch.

Size: 37 mm
Material: pink and white gold
Price: $147,300

Audemars Piguet

If you’d told me a few years ago that brutalism—a minimalist, institutional architecture style of the mid-20th century rendered with massive concrete slabs—was going to be a catchphrase of watch design by 2024, I’d have declared you an iconoclastic crackpot. But, you’d have been right.

Audemars Piguet has picked up on the recent nostalgia for that strangely appealing architectural style. Reaching into their catalog from the 1960s, when brutalism was peaking globally, they’ve found a very cool watch to recreate—or, as AP insists, to “[RE]Master.” Audemars Piguet has borrowed the term from the recording arts: Remastering is generally a slight modernizing of a recording for current markets, so the analogy holds here, as this watch slightly modernizes vintage model.

Audemars Piguet

Crafted from Audemars Piguet’s proprietary sand gold, the case will shift between white and pink gold hues, depending on ambient lighting. Using the trusted time-only only caliber 7129, this auto-winding mechanical movement is on display through a circular window in the caseback.

Audemars Piguet

Sébastian Vivas, AP’s Heritage and Museum Director, states that “Between 1959 and 1963, Audemars Piguet created more than 30 asymmetrical models, most of which were produced in less than 10 pieces. [RE]Master02 is a fantastic opportunity to revive this forgotten golden age.”

Audemars Piguet

Despite the wildly brutalist case, it may be the dial that steals the show here. Created using a dark blue PVD treatment over beautifully brushed surfaces, the 12 individually crafted dial segments cleverly help time telling without relying on applied markers. These dial segments are separated by galvanized sand gold partitions, and each segment sits on miniscule legs attached to a brass dial plate beneath. All of this geometric precision is accentuated by the beveled sapphire crystal.

Size: 41 mm
Material: sand gold
Price: $70,900(limited to 250 pieces)

Audemars Piguet

The Code 11.59 is getting all dolled up this year in a splash of gem-set models. Two 38 mm iterations come in either 18-karat pink gold or white gold set with 533 brilliant-cut diamonds and colored sapphires.

Audemars Piguet

What is notable here is the pixelated-looking setting. The pink-gold version comes with an array of navy, baby blue and yellow sapphires on the dial, while the white-gold version comes in pink and purple sapphires. Both look as though the colors were shaken in a glass and poured onto the dial so that the pattern is haphazardly arranged. It’s a fun take on a gem-set dial, one which we can’t recall seeing before and is, no doubt, extraordinarily difficult to arrange to achieve the right balance of hues. Each piece is set with the three-hand selfwinding caliber 5909.

Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet

One of the coolest pieces in the new lineup is just a prototype for now, but it offers a glimpse of what’s to come in the future. Chroma Gold is a patented innovation blending yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold via Spark Plasma Sintering technology. Each gold variation is melted before droplets are atomized into powders. They are then combined in their respective pattern in a circular graphite mold which is then sintered via an electrical current. It is a first for the watch industry.

Audemars Piguet

Even in jewellery it is notoriously difficult to work with multiple types of metal in one piece due to the variations in consistency and that’s without trying to blend them together. The only time we have seen the blending of two different types of gold before is in American jeweler Adam Neeley’s proprietary SpectraGold, which is currently pending a patent. AP’s Chroma Gold follows the debut of a similar method with ceramic that debuted in a prototype earlier this year allowing the company to blend various hues of the material. Camo isn’t for everyone, but the multi-hued gold version certainly makes a compelling case for the machismo pattern. On the right hands it will be irresistibly cool.

 

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Watch of the Week: IWC Ceralume Pilot’s Chronograph

The concept watch hints at the future of IWC’s proprietary luminous ceramic technology.

By Josh Bozin 31/05/2024

Did you catch Lewis Hamilton rocking a new IWC Schaffhausen timepiece at the Monaco Grand Prix over the weekend? We did too, and as curious watch fanatics, we couldn’t help but speculate on what exactly this stark-white timepiece could be. A new iteration of the 2022 Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN “Lake Tahoe” edition, perhaps?

Sort of.

Earlier this week, IWC took to Instagram to reveal what its experimental engineering division, XPL, has been working on over the last few years. Introducing the new IWC Ceralume Pilot’s Chronograph—a ceramic watch, albeit a prototype, that completely glows in the dark, from case to dial to strap!

IWC

Such wizardry is thanks to a proprietary luminous ceramic technology that IWC calls “Ceralume.” This technical feat has allowed IWC watchmakers to produce their very first fully luminous ceramic watch. Building on its 40-year journey as true pioneers of engineering ceramic material within watches—ceramic is notoriously difficult to work with, you see—IWC is no stranger to such technical feats.

Thanks to the homogeneous mixing of ceramic powders with high-grade Super-LumiNova pigments, IWC has fashioned a luminous material that acts like a battery for storing light energy. Utilising the new Ceralume technology, this fully luminous concept Pilot’s Chronograph emits a bright blueish light that lasts more than 24 hours.

“With the first fully luminous ceramic case rings, we underscore our role as a pioneer and innovator in ceramic watches. The development of Ceralume took several years. The main challenges we faced were producing watch cases with maximum homogeneity and meeting our exacting quality standards,” says Dr. Lorenz Brunner, Department Manager Research & Innovation at IWC Schaffhausen.

“To achieve these goals, we engineered a ground-breaking new manufacturing process – tailored to the unique combination of ceramic powders and Super-LumiNova pigments.”

If we’re to get extra technical, the ceramic material absorbs light energy from sunlight (or artificial light), stores it temporarily, and then emits the absorbed energy as visible light—the luminous “glow” that you see below. According to IWC, this cycle is infinite and will never cause the material to age or diminish its light storage capacity.

IWC

Developed completely in-house by IWC and its Experimental Engineering Division (XPL), the patent-pending Ceralume technology will undoubtedly form the foundation of future developments and releases, with a broader commercial release imminent.

To learn more, visit iwc.com

 

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