The 15 Best New Watches Of 2021

In a year that saw soaring demand for high-end watches, these models stood out.

By Victoria Gomelsky 05/01/2022

From January to November of this year, demand for Swiss watches was nothing short of insatiable. (According to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, Switzerland exported the equivalent of 20.4 billion francs, or $22.2 billion, in that period, besting, by a couple of percentage points, the export figures for the same period in 2019.) The U.S. market drove much of that demand, reflecting the growing mania for high-end watches.

To satiate collectors and enthusiasts, watchmakers introduced countless models over the past 12 months — selecting the stand-out styles was no easy feat. The 15 watches listed below made the cut — a selection sure to intrigue, and perhaps provoke, watch fans.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5711/1A-018

Patek Philippe x Tiffany & Co. Ref. 5711

Patek Philippe x Tiffany & Co. Ref. 5711 Patek Philippe

It was the year’s best mic drop. In a move that shocked the watch world, Patek Philippe unveiled in early December the final final edition of its coveted Ref. 5711, aka the “Tiffany Blue” Nautilus, a 170-piece limited-edition featuring the Tiffany & Co. signature at 6 o’clock and a dial bathed in the retailer’s signature robin’s egg blue. And while it may not represent Patek Philippe’s finest example of watchmaking, the steel watch certainly will go down in history as one of the most polarizing timepieces of 2021. Few would deny the model serves as a poster child for the current era of skyrocketing demand for unobtainable steel sport models. (To wit: One example, put up for sale at Phillips’ New York watch auction in December, with proceeds going to benefit The Nature Conservancy, fetched US$6.5 million.) On the flip side, Jay-Z proved it looks pretty damn good on the wrist.

Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921

Vacheron Constantin Unique American 1921 Historical Remake

Vacheron Constantin Unique American 1921 Historical Remake romain levrault

Something about the off-centre dial of Vacheron Constantin’s supremely elegant Historiques American 1921 feels just right for this year of twists and unexpected turns. A faithful adaptation of one of the brand’s most legendary timepieces, a cushion-shaped “driver’s watch” released in 1921, the encore edition that the brand introduced earlier this year honours the model’s centennial. And it’s as close to the original as it gets, down to the logo on the dial and the strap, which, while not vintage stock, was sourced from a supplier who specializes in early 20th-century calfskin leather styles. Talk about a time machine!

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre pulled out the stops for the 90th anniversary of its famed Reverso watch this year. Of all the novelties it introduced, including a four-faced model that blew our socks off, we’re partial to the Reverso Tribute Nonantième (meaning 90th in Swiss-French), an 18-karat pink-gold style with a silvered and sunray-brushed dial bearing a moon phase display at 6 o’clock and a date window at 12 o’clock. “It’s as classic and elegant as any traditional version of this model, but a turn of the dial reveals an entirely new expression,” we wrote upon its introduction in April, citing the model’s flip side, whose two round apertures, arranged like a figure-8, house a semi-jumping digital hour at 12 o’clock, among other enchanting details. Colour us bewitched!

Vianney Halter Deep Space Resonance

Vianney Halter Deep Space Resonance

Vianney Halter Deep Space Resonance Courtesy of Vianney Halter

Twenty-five years in the making, the Deep Space Resonance by Vianney Halter, one of the pioneers of contemporary, independent watchmaking, is a serious contender for the most philosophically advanced, horologically complex timepiece of the year, if not the decade. In short, the model is a triple-axis tourbillon equipped with an acoustic coupling mechanism incorporating two balance wheels. A tribute to undulatory physics, or the theory that light is transmitted as waves, the model is the product of an R&D effort Halter began in 1996, inspired by some of the 18th-century watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet’s early efforts to achieve resonance—a physical phenomenon in which an external force or a vibrating system forces another system around it to vibrate with greater amplitude at a specified frequency of operation. Watch lovers besotted with mechanical wizardry—this one’s for you.

Zenith Chronomaster Sport

Zenith El Primero Chromomaster Sport

Zenith El Primero Chromomaster Sport Allen Farmelo

The new Chronomaster Sport collection from Zenith strikes us as the fulfilment of a decades-old prophecy. Having introduced the El Primero calibre 400, the world’s first high frequency automatic chronograph movement, in 1969, the brand lays claim to one of the 20th century’s greatest horological legacies. That it’s now capitalised on that legacy with a handsome chronograph equipped with the zippy new calibre 3600 seems like a decision that was predestined. Many onlookers have pointed out the model’s resemblance to the steel Rolex Daytona—this one, however, may actually be available at retail.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Titanium Perpetual Calendar

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Titanium

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Titanium Courtesy of Bulgari

The latest addition to Bulgari’s critically acclaimed Octo Finissimo series, a perpetual calendar housed in a sleek and ultra-lightweight titanium case, took home the “Aiguille d’Or” grand prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in November for its masterful take on micro-watchmaking. With a case that measures only 5.8mm thick, the model is the world’s slimmest perpetual calendar. As Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin said when accepting the award, “It is an example of Italian genius and obsession for details.” We couldn’t agree more.

Grand Seiko SLGH005 “White Birch”

Grand Seiko SLGH005 “White Birch”

Grand Seiko SLGH005 “White Birch” Grand Seiko

The SLGH005 “White Birch” from the Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko rightfully tops myriad wish lists this year. Its most striking feature is its delicately textured dial, patterned to resemble the Shirakaba, the white birch tree of northern Japan, which thrives in the region surrounding the Grand Seiko Studio in Shizukuishi. But beneath that impeccable exterior ticks a technically accomplished movement, powered by a new Dual Impulse Escapement, a proprietary free-sprung balance and a horizontal gear train. In short, the timepiece—which, not surprisingly, won the best men’s watch prize at the GPHG—packs brains and beauty into one perfectly proportioned package.

MB&F x Bulgari LM FlyingT Allegra

MB&F and Bulgari LM FlyingT

MB&F and Bulgari LM FlyingT MB&F

Collaborations have become big business in the watch industry, but few are as interesting and unexpected as the co-creation that resulted from MB&F’s recent partnership with Bulgari. As we wrote in November, “the new 39 mm-by-20 mm LM FlyingT Allegra uses the same vertically built 3-D movement (it features a flying tourbillon on the upper end of the axis) and space-age domed case design as the original [FlyingT by MB&F], but now comes decked out in Italian opulence.” The colourful cabochon gems and diamonds that orbit the dial lend this serious piece of timekeeping a groovy, cosmic vibe—precisely, we suspect, the effect its creators were seeking.

Audemars Piguet Black Ceramic Royal Oak Selfwinding

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm Audemars Piguet

On the brink of the Royal Oak’s big 5-0 in 2022, Audemars Piguet didn’t shy away from expanding the collection this year. In July, the brand rolled out eight new Royal Oak styles for women, including the undisputed winner of the bunch, the Black Ceramic Royal Oak Selfwinding. Encased in a lightweight, scratchproof material that looks fantastic from virtually every angle, the sturdy yet graceful timepiece—which boasts 18-carat pink-gold hour markers, hands and screws—has a diameter of 34mm, a size that promises to entice plenty of men who are sure to covet its stealthy on-the-wrist appearance.

Panerai Submersible S Brabus Black Ops Edition

Panerai Submersible S Brabus Black Ops Edition

Panerai Submersible S Brabus Black Ops Edition Panerai

Another collaborative homerun this year was the Submersible edition that emerged from Panerai’s team-up with the German automotive aftermarket tuner Brabus. Inspired by the company’s Shadow Black Ops series of day boats, the watch is housed in a 47mm case made from Panerai’s matte finish Carbotech composite material, and features a colour scheme borrowed from Brabus’s signature palette of gunmetal grey, black and red. Panerai fans are bound to lust after the watch for its three years-in-the-making skeletonized automatic movement, the brand’s first-ever. But just about everyone will appreciate its stylish approach to functionality.

Rolex Explorer Ref. 124273

Rolex Explorer Ref. 124273 and Ref. 124270

Rolex Explorer Ref. 124273 and Ref. 124270 Rolex

In April, when Rolex unveiled the brand new Explorer—often described as the original tool watch, given its association with Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s historic ascent of Mt. Everest in 1953—the fact it came in a two-tone case in Rolesor (in Rolex-speak, this refers to the combination of the dual 18-karat yellow-gold and Oystersteel alloys) divided the watch community into lovers and haters. Count us squarely in the former camp (although, you can still opt for the full steel model, pictured right). Not only is the model’s 36mm case (a return to its original sizing) just right for unisex tastes, its lacquered black dial and Chromolight coating on the hour markers and hands give it a fetching, and fresh, new look.

De Bethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon

DeBethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon

DeBethune DB Kind of Two Tourbillon Diode SA – Denis Hayoun

Endowed with two distinct faces, the DB Kind of Two Tourbillon boasts two equally distinct vibes: Side “A” is in keeping with the boutique watchmaker’s more experimental, future-facing ethos, while side “B” represents a more refined and elegant take on horology. Toggling between the two requires nothing more than swivelling the case on its central axis, an action made simple by the titanium model’s floating lugs, each equipped with a rotating mechanism comprised of 28 components.

Cartier Cloche de Cartier

Cartier Cloche de Cartier

Cartier Cloche de Cartier Cartier

Famed for its unusually-shaped watches — the Tank, the Crash and the Baignoire, to name just a few—Cartier reintroduced a limited edition shaped style earlier this year in its Prive Collection called Cloche de Cartier, a 1920s model with a beguilingly quirky display (the Roman numerals are rotated 90 degrees from where you’d expect them to be). Named for a bell, the wristwatch works equally well as a mini table clock—and captures Cartier’s wonderfully inventive way with silhouettes.

Chopard L.U.C Full Strike

Chopard L.U.C. Full Strike

Chopard L.U.C. Full Strike Chopard

In anticipation of the 25th anniversary of the opening of its Fleurier and Geneva watch manufactures next year, Chopard released in November a new platinum version of its L.U.C Full Strike minute repeater, an acoustic timepiece that earned rave reviews for its innovation and elegant design when it was introduced in 2016. The model’s key differentiating detail is its one-piece crystal and gong component, machined from a single block of sapphire, that indicates the time through a combination of two notes, C# and F, with a crystal-clear, constant sound. “A platinum minute repeater would never otherwise resonate like this,” Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president, told Robb Report. “The metal would just eat the sound. But the crystal system enhances the sound.” Each watch takes 160 hours to assemble—and it shows.

A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual

A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual

A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual A. Lange & Söhne

In July, A. Lange & Söhne celebrated the 20th anniversary of its Langematik Perpetual—the first mechanical wristwatch of its kind to combine a perpetual calendar with the brand’s signature outsize date—with two blue-dial updates, one cased in pink gold and the other in white gold. Endowed with a Zero-Rest mechanism and a main corrector that simultaneously advances all calendar displays, the new models are designed to simplify and speed up the time-setting process, proof that a watchmaking icon can always be enhanced with new tricks.

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Forever Young

You’re born, you live, you get old—right? Well, not according to a growing legion of death-dodgers who are prepared to pay any price to reverse the ageing process.

By Alison Boleyn 13/09/2024

It is, by any estimation, a meeting of strange bedfellows. Gathered here tonight, at the table of a centi-millionaire venture capitalist living in Venice, California, are Kim and Khloé Kardashian, Kris Jenner and the manfluencer-neuroscientist Andrew Huberman. And the reason this hybrid crew has assembled? Part evangelism, part investment drive, and mostly about discussing how to never, ever die.

The menu that evening—black lentils over drifts of veg with berry-strewn nut pudding—nodded to what the head of the table eats every single day, albeit in separate sittings and all before 11.00 am. Bryan Johnson, who sold Braintree Venmo to PayPal for US$800 million (around $1.2 billion) in 2013, now devotes his life and fortune to winding back his biological age. What he calls his “Don’t Die Dinners” manifest a trend in health and wellbeing where the vision of living to 120, 150 and beyond, has moved from anti-ageing scientists, elite athletes and tech eccentrics to a whole new level of celebrity.

“The two futurist topics everyone is obsessed with right now are artificial intelligence and living forever,” says neuroscientist and futurist Joel Pearson. “Interest in longevity has exploded over the last eight months and that’s because of Bryan Johnson’s Don’t Die campaign.”

Jeff Bezos attends The 2024 Met Gala Celebrating “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion” at The Metropolitan Museum of Art on May 06, 2024 in New York City. (Photo by Arturo Holmes/MG24/Getty Images for The Met Museum/Vogue)

In March, when doctors injected 300 million young Swedish bone marrow mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) into Johnson’s knees, hips and shoulders, it was in a clinic in the Bahamian resort owned by Justin Timberlake and Tiger Woods. The 47-year-old—that’s in chronological years; his heart has the biological age of 37—consumes 32 kg of vegetables monthly and more than 100 pills a day, hits bed strictly at 8.30 pm and will repeat the MSC therapy next year so his joints match his already youthful bone mineral density. Other biomarkers show he has the cardiovascular fitness, muscle mass and nighttime erections of a fit 18-year-old. Johnson’s waking hours are devoted to a regimen of therapies and exercises continually recalibrated by a team of more than 30 doctors, with one goal: to slow down the ageing process. Or as Johnson is fond of saying: “Is death no longer inevitable?”

One of Johnson’s July dinner guests, the charismatic Stanford neuroscientist Andrew Huberman, has helped propel this notion of extreme longevity. Huberman Lab is Apple Podcasts’ most popular health and fitness show, and the 16th most popular podcast across all categories. His self-optimisation ethos appeals to the acolytes of the show’s manly backer, former UFC fighter Joe Rogan.

Andrew Huberman Ph.D., is a neuroscientist and tenured professor in the Department of Neurobiology and by courtesy, Psychiatry and Behavioral Sciences at at Stanford School of Medicine.

“It’s that bro science,” says Pearson, who heads the Future Minds Lab at UNSW and himself adheres to a routine of saunas, kava and red-light therapy to improve sleep. “It’s the young guys in the gym with the ice baths and the hormones and the hunting.” (Because testosterone declines in men starting from their 30s, attempting to boost the hormone through abstinence has become an ideology of a particularly butch patch of anti-agers; getting good-quality protein by shooting your own is another.)

DJ Steve Aoki (46, but biologically 33) has equipped his Las Vegas home with ice plunge tubs, saunas, pulsed electromagnetic field mats, a hyperbaric oxygen chamber and a tea bar . He has “I’ll sleep when I’m dead” tattooed across his neck and says he’s signed up for “the full-body freeze”—the cryopreservation of his body for future revival.

While US-based futurist Dr Divya Chander says this euphoria around stretching longevity has not extended to women—“I think they still feel limited by their biology”—Hailey Bieber has shown that the gender divide might be shifting. On an episode of The Kardashians, the 27-year-old model (biological age unknown) underwent an intravenous infusion of NAD with her friend Kendall Jenner. NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) is a compound in the body that supports cellular process. “I’m going to NAD for the rest of my life and I’m never going to age,” Bieber said on the show. She was visibly joking yet Jennifer Aniston, 55, told the Wall Street Journal last year that she’s also used NAD+ IV drips, and Kourtney Kardashian, 45, calls her liquid form of NAD “the genetic key to longevity”.

LHailey Bieber is seen on March 02, 2022 in Los Angeles, California. (Photo by Bellocqimages/Bauer-Griffin/GC Images)

The Sydney-based founders of UAre, an app designed to increase longevity, say that in the early years of testing, men and women responded differently to the product. “The conversation with men was more about winning,” says co-founder Marc Pasques. “‘I extended my lifespan by a year by doing more exercise’, or ‘I extended it by two’. Women talked about hanging out with grandkids.” But he goes on to admit that gap in motivation is closing.

Are has just opened a $1 million seed round and forecasts $10 million in revenue in 2025 and $30 million in 2026. There’s money to be made in extending youth, if not eternal life. Bryan Johnson sells Blueprint basics for US$333 (around $495) a month. The Harvard biologist and author of Lifespan: Why We Age—and Why We Don’t Have To, David Sinclair (chronologically 55; biologically 42), who controversially advocates for resveratrol—a plant compound found in red wine and grapes—as an anti-aging drug and who says there are no limits to how long we can live, has co-patented a skincare line with Caudalie.

Professional services giant PwC argues that the oft-used estimate of the global market value of longevity therapeutics at around $65 billion by 2030 does not take into account the potential for these to replace conventional therapeutics in healthcare. Australia’s first medical facility to offer personalised longevity programs, Longevity Medicine Institute, opened in Sydney’s Double Bay in July. “People are coordinating their aesthetic care with longevity doctors,” says New York-based celebrity cosmetic dermatologist Dr Paul Jarrod Frank, whose clients include Madonna. “They’re using supplements like NAD, newer peptides and various manipulative efforts to try and look younger and live longer.” 

Similarly Don Saladino, the personal trainer who’s shaped up Hugh Jackman and Jake Gyllenhaal, emphasises age-extending practices in his star clients’ programs as strongly as any aesthetic goals. As Ryan Reynolds readied himself to assume a “tight-as-hell” costume for this year’s Marvel movie Deadpool & Wolverine, Saladino coached the 47-year-old through better sleep practices, walking and increasing dietary fibre. He reframes strength training as not just body-sculpting but as creating “body armour” for later life, to prevent the falls so catastrophic for the elderly.

 Ryan Reynolds attends the 2022 People’s Choice Awards at Barker Hangar on December 06, 2022 in Santa Monica, California. (Photo by Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic)

And Chris Hemsworth, who plays another Marvel superhero Thor, included efforts to stave off the onset of dementia through meditation and exercise alongside Arctic ice plunges in his bid to increase longevity in the TV series Limitless.

Australian actor Chris Hemsworth in the McLaren garage during the F1 Grand Prix of Abu Dhabi at Yas Marina Circuit on November 26, 2023 in Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates. (Photo by Kym Illman/Getty Images)

The man who was Australia’s deputy chief medical officer during the Covid-19 pandemic questions the lure of many supplements and longevity interventions. As host of the 9Network’s Do you Want To Live Forever seriesDr Nick Coatsworth visits Okinawa, a “blue zone” where an astonishing number of inhabitants live past 100 in good health. There he watches some local elderly dance to hip-hop. “All that biohacking people do, it’s just a waste of time,” he says. “To live longer, you have to spend time with good friends, keep moving and have a good diet.”

Joel Pearson, who stopped taking resveratrol and NMN supplements years ago after research showed mixed results, agrees.If there’s compelling evidence showing frequent sauna users can get a 40 per cent drop in all-cause mortality, then why would you spend time worrying about a molecule that has very small effect?”

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Only The Good Die Young

In a future of floating
billionaire summits,
do we really want to
live forever?

By Horacio Silva 13/09/2024

Two thousand tech moguls, shamans, CEOs and DJs packed together on a cruise ship for what organisers call “invitation only, one of a kind experiences where super humans make magic”. What could go wrong? That’s the pitch for Summit at Sea, an event billed as a “floating Davos” for millennial technocrats, staged in international waters off Miami. But even if the marketing lingo sometimes threatens to sink under its own weight (“Wherever your gravitational force takes you, our constellation offers wonder”), Summit at Sea captures something about the zeitgeist of what billionaires are looking for now.

They want woo-woo; they want to microdose mushrooms, ketamine and LSD (as championed by the likes of Sergey Brin and Elon Musk), and they most certainly don’t want to die. This issue is about those issues. Jeff Bezos, Mark Zuckerberg and Peter Thiel are among the squillionaires bankrolling longevity initiatives— presumably to live long enough to be able to spend all their money. But as Alison Boleyn reports in her first story for Robb Report, even those outre efforts—Thiel is said to receive blood transfusions from people under 25—pale when compared to Bryan Johnson, who reportedly spends $2 million a year on anti- ageing methods. For those of us who can’t afford eternal life, however, the good news is the world is still full of earthly delights.

Take the healthful effects of the Greek island of Tinos or driving the new Rolls-Royce around Ibiza, for example. We also check into an integrated wellness clinic in Thailand and a luxury resort in Spain that focuses on gut health—miso soup and a side of algae, anyone?—and luxuriate in Guerlain’s stunning new day spa outside of Athens. And we spend time with Rory Warnock, a breathwork practitioner and ultra-marathon runner whose tips for curing anxiety and promoting wellbeing are being sought by everyone from CEOs and Olympians to companies like Google and Bupa. And like us, he’s also partial to a well-made negroni. Oh, waiter? Maybe we’ll let the ship sail without us.

Robb Report ANZ’s Issue #37 is now on sale. Pick up your copy of our September issue, to discover Spring cleaning for the mind, body and wardrobe.

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Breathing New Life

Ancient cultures have used it for thousands of years to cure anxiety and promote wellbeing; now everyone from CEOs to Olympians are discovering the health benefits of breathwork.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 13/09/2024

Rory Warnock is not your typical new-age guy. When we meet him, he’s sipping a negroni overlooking the ocean at Casa Amor in Saint-Tropez, dressed in an open-neck shirt, expensive sunglasses and a jaunty Hermès silk scarf tied around his neck; no kombucha teas or healing-crystal necklaces here. His relaxed posture is a far cry from 10 days ago when he was preparing to run a 200 km marathon through the Tian Shan mountain range in remotest Kyrgyzstan. “I carried everything I’d need for six days in the mountains. My pack weighed 10.8 kg on day one, excluding water. And I surprisingly ended up coming third,” he says. 

According to Warnock, this staggering feat of endurance was mainly down to one thing: breathwork.

Proclaimed as an all-natural wonder drug by an ever-growing chorus of scientists, doctors and fitness enthusiasts, breathwork describes the act of inhaling and exhaling in a way that brings an overwhelming, sometimes euphoric, sense of calm and balance to your body. Though it dates back thousands of years—evidence has been found to suggest the practice was adpoted in ancient India, and shamanic cultures in South America, Africa and Australia—modern-day breathwork broadly falls into two different categories.

The first is the mindful breathing that forms an essential part of yoga and meditation: alternate nostril breathing, or box breathing, are taught as simple physiological tools to downregulate the nervous system and move the brain from fight or flight mode. It’s believed these simple methods re-tune brain chemistry, by reducing the amount of noradrenaline to the organ—akin to popping Valium or taking a perfectly safe mini-tranquiliser.

The second is holotropic breathing, which is deep, transformative breathwork. Devotees says it’s more like taking a mushroom trip. Pioneered by Dr Stanislav Grof in the ’70s, it invloves laying on your back in the dark and following a sequence of breathing patterns as you’re guided by a trained facilitator—and is often set to music. It’s claimed that this more intensive work can yield powerful results by connecting to the subconscious, releasing accumulated trauma and accessing inner wisdom.

Nine years ago, Scottish-born Warnock took a risk. He traded working for a successful packaged goods company in London for a career as a breathwork coach in Sydney—long before his passion was an internet buzzword. The move, however, was not necessarily driven by financial motives. “I was diagnosed with anxiety and depression at a pretty young age, like 21 or 22 years,” he says, taking another sip of his negroni. “I was pretty much crying myself to sleep for about three years and I didn’t really understand what was going on.”

Dissatisfied with being prescribed “a little white pill” by his doctor and given a “pat on the back”, Warnock began to look for new ways to heal his condition. “I tried to do everything I could to improve myself in a more holistic way and so I got into running,” he says. “I changed my lifestyle.” 

And more significantly, he discovered breathwork, giving him a new mission in life. “When I first heard about it, I thought ‘breathwork’, that sounds a bit ridiculous. Someone is going to tell me how to breathe in a certain way and it is going to change how I think and feel and ultimately perform day-to-day? But I went along to one session and that one hour changed the direction of my whole life. I was hooked on the feeling. I was hooked on the immediate effects, hooked on feeling joyful, happy, strong, empowered.”

In person, Rory’s enthusiasm is infectious, but his testimonials are, increasingly, backed up by science. A 2014 study by the Stanford Research Unit found breathing exercises to be effective for treating PTSD in combat veterans; and by 2016, US Navy seals started using breathwork to achieve calm and focus before battle. British neuroscientist Professor Ian Robertson calls it the “the most precise pharmaceutical you could ever give yourself, side-effect free”, while some researchers claim breathing exercises are an effective, low-cost treatment for PTSD, bi-polar, insomnia, and can even help combat grief. 

The general public are buying into the movement, too; according to a report by the Global Wellness Institute, breathwork has experienced a 400 percent uptick in popularity since 2019. And, unsurprisingly, billionaire technology titans, who are always looking for the next big health panacea, are buying in. “It’s all very steeped in Silicon Valley tech culture,” said Jag Gill, a New York-based banker turned tech CEO in a recent interview with The Washington Post. 

Dr Smita Dsilva is an ayurvedic doctor (ayurveda being an ancient Indian alternative medicine) at the RAKxa Integrative Wellness in Bangkok, Thailand, a clinic that received celebrity patronage in July when supermodel  Kate Moss passed through. “Breathing exercises have been used for centuries as a powerful tool to manage stress and anxiety, increase focus, and improve overall wellbeing. In the high-pressure business world, this is a simple yet effective practice, she says. “Giving attention to the breath promotes the purification of both the mind and body, while also raising the energy. It also frees the mind from unnecessary thoughts that promote anxiety… regular practice can release up to 80 percent of the body’s toxins through the breath.”

And breathwork is not just an elixir for various negative mood states. According to Dsilva, the practise can also help with aesthetic issues: “Kapalbhati pranayama is a specific breathing technique in yoga that involves forceful exhalations and passive inhalations, engaging the abdominal muscles throughout the practice. The vigorous breathing and abdominal contractions help reduce bloating and support the removal of toxins, potentially leading to reduced belly bloating and weight loss.”

These findings will not be news to the clients who flock to Rory Warnock’s breathwork school in Sydney’s Bondi suburb. Or to the Olympic athletes, AFL players and CEOs who are huffing and puffing his studio door down on a regular basis. Most likely due to his soft Scottish accent and self-effacing manner, Rory has been adpoted by a raft of high-calibre companies, including Google, Amazon, BUPA and Energy Australia, eagre to learn how mindful breathing can bring better productivity to the workplace. He’s an ambassador for Apple and Lululemon, and has evolved into a seasoned conference speaker. Warnock’s brave career-change gamble has clearly paid off.

When he’s not teaching the world’s movers and shakers how to harness the power of something that we all do around 20,000 times a day without even thinking, Rory has gotten into the habit of bookending his year with long-distance races; for him, breathwork and ultra-marathon running are intimately linked. But he insists that mental issues can be addressed on a more prosaic level.

“You don’t have to go for a 45-minute yoga class or a run,” he insists. “You can just do a few minutes or even a few seconds of breathwork and you can move from a low state, to a better mood state. And it is exactly the same with anxiety; if you are feeling stressed and overwhelmed, there are breathing exercises you can do in real time to shift how you feel.” Negronis are allowed, too.

Rory Wornock, discover Rory Wornock’s breath lessons on Spotify.

Rakxa Wellness

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The Bird Man

Neil Perry returns to the Cantonese coop
with a sensational new Sydney eatery.

By Horacio Silva 14/09/2024

When Neil Perry was casing a potential venue for a new restaurant, a heritage-listed, modernist masterpiece in Double Bay designed by the architect and former Woollahra mayor Neville Gruzman, it reminded the celebrated chef of a birdcage. The image of the columbary building, all windows and dramatic vertical panels, captivated him. A year later, it has inspired the opening of Sydney’s most hotly anticipated new restaurant, Song Bird.

The three-level, 230-seater joins Perry’s other joints in the swank block —the award-winning seafood restaurant Margaret, the adjacent bar Next Door and the Baker Bleu bakery two doors up. It also marks a return to Cantonese fare for Perry, who made his name partly on the success of renowned Sydney eateries Wokpool and Spice Temple, and a welcome coming home for quality Chinese in the area.

“Bizarrely, there were two really great Chinese restaurants in Double Bay,” Perry recalls. “The Imperial Peking, just upstairs from where Scanlan Theodore is now, was terrific, and the nearby Cleveland was probably the best Chinese restaurant in Sydney in the early ’90s. That’s what I’m aspiring to.” What made these two erstwhile locations so good, Perry adds, was that they didn’t overreach: “Just beautiful Chinese food and great service. That’s the secret sauce.” It won’t be all Spencer Gulf king prawn dumplings, Peking duck, and steamed ginger and shallot coral trout. Rebel-rousing is also on the menu. Downstairs, in the old Pelicano space, will house Bobbie’s, a speakeasy in conjunction with Linden Pride and Nathalie Hudson of New York’s renowned Caffe Dante, named after Pride’s grandfather, the legendary Australian broadcaster Bob Rogers.

Linden Pride and Neil Perry at Bobbie’s in Double Bay

The good times will also be rolling on September 17, when Robb Report takes over Song Bird to serenade Perry, our Culinary Master of the Year. When it came time to select the year’s standout gastronomic talent, the choice was easy. Ditto the avian-esque venue. As such, be sure to pick up our next issue for a special section devoted to Culinary Masters. It’s bound to make gourmands chirp with delight. 

Song Bird & Bobbie’s

 

 

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Shooting Star

As her four-decade retrospective embarks on a national tour, convention-challenging Australian photographer Anne Zahalka is looking backwards to move forward.

By Horacio Silva 13/09/2024

Anne Zahalka’s office is a museum-worthy cabinet of curiosities. Located on the first floor of the photographer’s terrace in Sydney’s inner city, next to a room that serves as a makeshift studio, it is replete with the standard ephemera and clutter of an artist’s lair. On the wall in front of her desk hangs a portrait (taken by Zahalka’s aunt, a fellow photographer) of her mother as a young woman and a shelf filled with CDs, floppy disks and other outdated technology; on another, mounted shelves heave under the weight of 40 years of project folders. 

“Maybe it’s because I’m getting older,” Zahalka, now 68, says over tea while flicking through the pages of documentation from her first show in 1981, “but I’m feeling increasingly nostalgic, and these folders are invaluable. Being able to go back to the year the works were made and looking at the documentation and research is beyond helpful. I turn to them all the time.” Behind Zahalka’s desk, a bookshelf teems with magazines and publications she has been featured in and go-to reference books on everything from trompe l’oeil to Goya and portraiture.

Installation shot of Kunstkammer – Anne’s studio reproduction at NAS Gallery. Image by Jackie Manning.

The curated miscellany is not only an invaluable source of daily inspiration, but as a maquette on top of a filing cabinet suggests, it is also a focal point of a new exhibition. Running through October 19 at Sydney’s National Arts School (NAS) before a national tour, ZahalkaworldAn Artist’s Archive is the most comprehensive survey of the photographer’s work since she emerged in the early 1980s and bloomed into one of Australia’s most thought-provoking artists. At the heart of the exhibition is Kunstkammer, a life-size immersive recreation of Zahalka’s office—albeit a bit tidier than in reality. “It’s the centrepiece of the show,” says the softly spoken artist. “I like to be generous about how my work is made and the thinking behind it. People don’t get to see that often, and this is an opportunity to open that up and share where I have lived and worked.”

Staged over the two floors of the NAS Gallery, Zahalkaworld, which debuted at the Museum of Australian Photography in 2023, presents more than 100 original prints from 15 series over the years, and assorted curios and collectibles from her office and studio. Her initial reworkings of Old Master and Early Australian paintings presaged a fondness for collage and photomontage, working with found historical images to tell new stories about underrepresented members of society. In one of her most famous works, The Bathers (1989), a recreation of Charles Meere’s Australian Beach Pattern (1940), she recasts the all-white original with a diverse cast of characters she encountered in the late ’80s after returning to Australia from a Berlin residency. “I’m interested in how we are represented and in our national image,” she says. “My work often tries to decode and untangle that and come up with other figures not represented in the culture.”

Anne ZAHALKA, The Bathers 1989, taken from the series Bondi: playground of the Pacific. Chromogenic print 95 x 112 cm. Museum of Australian Photography, City of Monash Collection donated through the Australian Government’s Cultural Gifts Program by the Bowness Family 2010. Image supplied courtesy of the artist, Arc One Gallery, Melbourne and Dominik Mersch Gallery, Sydney.

The exhibition marks a poignant homecoming of sorts for Zahalka, having studied at the NAS in the late ’70s before returning a few years later to teach photo-media. Sharing pride of place alongside six of her works from the gallery’s collection are five recent works that deal with natural history and incorporate images of old museum dioramas in her sharp, often humorous criticisms of tourism and other environmental interferences wreaking havoc on the planet. Cast aways (2024) is set against the background of a 1939 diorama of Lord Howe Island at the Australian Museum. But in Zahalka’s reworking, pioneering conservationists (lifted from another painting) examine plastic pollution while planes fly overhead, and contrails replace clouds.

Anne ZAHALKACast aways, 2024 from the series Future Past Present Tense. Solvent ink print on rag paper, 80 × 120 cm. Image courtesy of the artist and ARC ONE Gallery, Melbourne

Something is comforting, she adds, about recreating and reimagining these historical scenarios, even if it is to comment on the consequences of ocean pollution. As for revisiting her past, what has looking in the rearview mirror revealed about herself and her work? “Some things, like making these disruptions on history to speak about the current place we’re in, have remained the same,” she says. “But if this whole process of preparing for the show has taught me anything, it’s that there are a lot of parts to me.” The studio may be messy, but nostalgia has never looked so fresh.

Visit NAS Gallery for all ZAHALKAWORLD showing until 19 October.

Top image: Anne ZAHALKA, The Artist (self portrait) 1988, taken from the series Resemblance II. Silver dye bleach print, 50.0 x 50.0 cm. Image supplied courtesy of the artist, represented by ARC ONE Gallery (Melbourne) and Dominik Mersch Gallery (Sydney).

 

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