Rolex’s Bold New Watches Surprise And Delight

From fresh Daytonas to an Emoji Date Wheel, the Crown is shedding its inhibitions.

By 29/03/2023

When it comes to the fevered speculation in the run-up to Watches & Wonders each year, Rolex takes the lion’s share of attention. This year was no exception, with even more points of intrigue in the mix than usual. Would the most lauded haute horology outfit on the planet pitch a curveball to match that of last year’s “Southpaw” GMT-Master II with green and black bezel, or the titanium Deepsea Challenge that raised eyebrows in the watch-loving community a few months after it?

Would calls be answered for a little more gaiety when it comes to dial hues with the Oyster Perpetual, perhaps, as hinted at in a recent Insta post from the manufacture? What might be kicked from the catalogue? Well, to say that a maker often thought of as conservative when it comes to reimagining their repertoire have certainly shed their inhibitions and really had some fun this time around—see below.

No discussion of Rolex’s latest creative output is complete, of course, without tackling the knotty question of actually acquiring the new novelties. Rolex launched its certified pre-owned business this year, giving it control over some of its secondary market from here on. What impact this has on how likely those without an authorised dealer on speed-dial are to get hold of a piece remains to be seen.

Our sense, though, is that Rolexes are a little easier to purchase these days, in part due to economic slumps in various parts of the world. Given what attendees beheld for the first time in Geneva today, we’d implore readers to take advantage.

Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

With the Submariner turning 70 this year and the Cosmograph Daytona 60, much of the Rolex-related conjecture in the last few weeks has surrounded anniversaries. Would any new releases prove as singular as the platinum iteration of the latter, introduced when it turned 50?

As it turns out, the next-gen versions of this iconic motorsport chronograph have been subject to a number of subtle aesthetic twists. The case and lugs have been tweaked so that light reflections better emphasize the contours of a design which the piece has had since its launch six decades ago, whilst new material/colour combinations bring out the contrast between the dials and the counters/rings.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

There are several iterations—including platinum with ice blue dial; an 18 ct Everose gold version with black dial and Sundust counters; and 18 ct yellow gold with a golden dial and bright black counters and Oysterflex bracelet. All house the new calibre 4131 movement, an evolutionary step up from calibre 4130, which features bridges decorated with Rolex Côtes de Genève finishing.

Case Size: 40 mm
Case and Bracelet Material: Oystersteel, Yellow Gold, Everose Gold, Platinum
Caliber: 4131
Power Reserve: 72 hours

Perpetual 1908

Perpetual 1908

Perhaps the piece in the Rolex canon most conducive to formal dressing, the Perpetual 1908—named as a nod to the year that Hans Wilsdorf came up with the name Rolex—has a slim, 18 ct yellow or white gold case and a part domed, part finely fluted bezel. Subtle chamfering on lugs completes the piece’s aesthetic.

A transparent case back reveals the exquisite piece of horological theater that is calibre 7140—a self-winding mechanical movement Rolex unveiled this year. It includes a Chronergy escapement, Syloxi hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers, not to mention bridges finished with Rolex Côtes de Genève (keen-eyed observers will note the polished groove between each band).

Dials—which come in a white or black—have Arabic numerals at 3, 9 and 12 (there’s a seconds subdial at 6) and faceted index markers, whilst the hour hand, with a ring approaching its tip, contrasts playfully with the minute hand’s sword shape.

Case Size: 40 mm
Materials: Yellow and White Gold
Caliber: 7140
Power Reserve: 66 hours

Yacht‑Master 42—in Titanium

Rolex Yacht‑Master 42

What the fruits might be of Rolex R&D boffins’ recent dabbling with titanium has been another major topic of conjecture over the last few weeks. Many predicted the arrival of a Daytona (or perhaps a Submariner) rendered from an alloy known for its strength and lightness.

As it turns out, they’ve applied their newly found nous with this material to a model that has been at the heart of the intersection between horology and sailing since the 1950s—and we’re predicting a warmer response to this release than those received by the titanium Sea Dweller model, which many deemed too bulky, its dial too busy.

The attractiveness of this piece lies in the contrasting finishes: satin, with a visible grain, on the middle case sides, the edges of the bracelet links and the sides of the clasp cover; chamfered, with a high sheen, when it comes to the top edges of the middle case lugs; polished in the case of the crown guard. The bidirectional rotatable bezel, meanwhile, is in matte black ceramic with raised numerals, complementing a black dial with a fine satin finish.

Case Size: 40 mm
Materials: Titanium
Caliber: 3235
Power Reserve: 70 hours

Sky-Dweller

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller

Independent watch dealer turned vlogger Paul Thorpe was among those calling for a more flamboyant approach to bezel and dial colours (as well, in Thorpe’s case, as the trademarked rubber Oysterflex bracelets) from Rolex in recent weeks.

Aficionados of the Sky-Dweller, a piece aimed at global travellers, who share Thorpe’s views are now afforded versions in white Rolesor (two-tone gold and steel) with a mint green dial (formerly seen only on the Datejust) and an 18 ct Everose gold piece whose dial comes in an entirely new blue hue (there’s also, for the first time ever, a 18 ct white gold version on an Oysterflex bracelet).

As for technical enhancements to a model already equipped with two time zones and annual Saros calendar, its beating heart is now calibre 9002, whose repertoire—unlike its predecessor—includes a Chronergy escapement.

As for more flamboyant approaches to dials, the new Sky-Dweller models are just the start of it…

Case Size: 42 mm
Materials: White Gold, Oystersteel, Everose Gold
Caliber: 9002
Power Reserve: 72 hours

New GMT‑Master IIs

Rolex GMT‑Master II

A line launched in 1955 in response to the explosion of intercontinental travel—a piece instantly recognizable thanks to its bidirectional rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated insert—this morning welcomed two newcomers: one entirely in 18 ct yellow gold, the other another Rolesor piece.

Both have a bezel enhanced, aesthetically, by a two-tone Cerachrom (a portmanteau of ceramic and chrome) insert in grey and black ceramic plus Jubilee bracelet. These juxtapose elegantly with the name “GMT‑Master II,” rendered on the dial in powdered yellow.

Both versions feature a Jubilee bracelet with Oysterlock clasp and the Easylink comfort extension link.

Case Size: 40 mm
Materials: Yellow Rolesor, Yellow Gold, Cerachrom (Ceramic and Chrome)
Caliber: 9002
Power Reserve: 72 hours

Explorer 40

Rolex Explorer 40

Rolex have made just a single new addition to a line, launched in 1953 shortly after the first successful conquering of Mount Everest, whose black lacquer dial, numerals at 3, 6 and 9 and Professional hands embody—in Rolex’s own words—“the spirit of adventure and perseverance.”

The altogether more imperious 40 mm model offers better legibility than the 36 mm version, and is crafted from Oystersteel, an alloy which is corrosion-resistant and takes on an incredible sheen when polished diligently. Also enhancing that legibility is a Chromalight display which gives off a pleasing blue glow in poor light dark conditions but during daylight hours offers up a strikingly bright white hue.

A worthy addition to a line of pieces which make even those of us who won’t be leaving base camp any time soon feel on top of the world.

Case Size: 40 mm
Materials: Oystersteel
Caliber: 3230
Power Reserve: 70 hours

Oyster Perpetual 31, 36 and 41—With Coloured Bubbles

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31, 36 and 41

And here’s the first curveball: the lacquered dials of the new Oyster Perpetuals in 31 mm, 36 mm and 41 mm, which are dotted with bubbles in those five vivid colours (candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green) first introduced to the line back in 2020.

All of the fundamental features of the Oyster Perpetual collection—chronometric precision, waterproof Oyster case, self-winding movement with Perpetual rotor—are present in these zany additions to a line which became the first waterproof watch back in 1926.

But it’s the pieces’ dials, and where they sit with Rolex’s reputation for cautious nips and tucks over brassy aesthetic statements, that has got tongues wagging. (Think elegantly understated auntie letting rip on a wedding reception dance floor.)

Rolex’s newfound flamboyance is all the more elegant, here, for how it contrasts with refined aesthetic touches such as the fine fluting on the caseback.

Case Size: 31 mm, 36 mm, 41 mm
Materials: Oystersteel
Caliber: 2232 (the 31 mm version) and 3230 (the 36 mm and 41 mm versions)
Power Reserve: 55/70 hours

Day-Date 36 With Decorative Stone Dials

Rolex Day-Date 36 With Decorative Stone Dials

The Mediterranean coast provided the inspiration for three new additions to the Day-Date line whose radiant dials come in finely crystalized green aventurine, orange-ish carnelian and turquoise (made, respectively, from 18 ct Everose gold, 18 ct yellow gold and  18 ct white gold). All are studded with diamond-set hour markers and Roman numerals at VI and IX.

Faithful to what wowed watch-lovers on the Day-Date’s launch in 1956 (it was the first calendar wristwatch to show not only date but the day of the week, spelt out in an arc-shaped window at 12 o’clock), the new pieces are—natch—fitted on a President bracelet, in keeping with the “Rolex President” nickname that arose from the piece being favored by Lyndon B. Johnson and John F. Kennedy, who received a Day-Date as a birthday gift from Marilyn Monroe.

Case Size: 36 mm
Materials: Everose Gold, Yellow Gold, White Gold
Caliber: 3255
Power Reserve: 70 hours

Day-Date 36 With Jigsaw Puzzle Dials—and an Emoji Date Wheel

Rolex Day-Date 36 With Jigsaw Puzzle Dials

Rolex—we’re loving the new you. Created using champlevé enameling, the striking dials on these three new variants of the Oyster Perpetual line—crafted from 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold—feature a chromatically dizzying jigsaw puzzle motif and hour markers fashioned from baguette-cut sapphires in six different hues.

As mentioned above, the Day-Date was the first calendar wristwatch to indicate the day of the week spelt out at 12 o’clock—a huge technical feat back in 1956. Here, Rolex has instead used this window, in the aperture at 12 o’clock, to project inspirational keywords (Happy, Eternity, Gratitude, Peace, Faith, Love, Hope). Oh, and instead of anything as dry as numerical digits, 31 different emojis take their turn at the 3 o’clock window.

Case Size: 36 mm
Materials: Everose Gold, Yellow Gold, White Gold
Caliber: 3255
Power Reserve: 70 hours

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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