28 Rolex Terms Every Watch Collector Should Know, From Coronet to Double Swiss Underline

Cyclops, Frog Foot, Eagle Beak and more, explained.

By Oren Hartov 01/10/2022

So you saved up for your first Rolex, and you decided to go the “vintage” route. But now, a problem — what the hell are all these weird terms and phrases being bandied about? “Frog foot” and “gilt” and “tropical” and “Bart Simpson”—it sounds like the frenzied mutterings of some drunken cartoon character in a contemporary production of Alice In Wonderland. How exactly does all this relate to watches, and to Rolex watches, more specifically?

Here’s the thing: Rolex aficionados love this stuff. It’s like a secret, coded language that signals that someone else is an insider, that that person loves horological esoterica as much as the next nerd. But it’s also not that complicated, for a variety of reasons, not least of which is that we’ve compiled a cheat sheet for you. Now, the next time you see that vintage-watch dealer, you can be sure that you’ll be on an equal footing. Kinda. At the least, they’ll know that you are someone who cares enough about the subject to sweat the details.

NOTE: If you’re looking for a guide to Rolex nicknames—i.e. the nicknames of different watch models—click here. What we’re cataloguing here is the language of the obsessive and the collector. Think of it as the only Rolex glossary you’ll ever need.

Essential Rolex Terminology

2-Line: A dial with only two lines of text above the 6 o’clock marker, such as certain Ref. 14060 Submariners without denoted Chronometer certification. Some prefer the uncluttered looks of these dials.

Rolex Submariner 14060 Photo: Courtesy Crown & Caliber

4-Line: A dial with four lines of text. On a Ref. 14060M Submariner, for example, this would add the chronometer certification to the model name and depth rating.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 114060

Bark Finish: A feature of certain President bracelets in which the gold material is etched to look like bark.

Rolex Day-Date With a Bark Finish Bracelet

Big Crown: Certain early Submariners featured an oversized, 8mm winding crown—these include references 6200, 6538, and 5510.

1955 Rolex “Big Crown” Submariner 6200

Coronet: The Rolex crown logo.

The Rolex Coronet sits at 12 o’clock on a Cellini Moonphase watch. Rolex

Cyclops: A watch crystal with a built-in magnifier for the date, first released in 1948 on a Datejust model and patented in 1952. Originally these were made of acrylic and were part of the crystal; later (and current) sapphire models feature a Cyclops manufactured separately and affixed to the main crystal.

A Rolex GMT-Master II with a cyclops lens over the date aperture. Rolex

Double Swiss Underline: A particular dial on the first Daytona Ref. 6239 that features an underline beneath the word “Cosmograph” and two “SWISS” signatures—one above the 6 o’clock marker, and one below the minute track, which is partially covered by the watch’s rehaut.

The Double Swiss Underline dial on a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona. Sotheby’s

Eagle Beak: A crown guard style found on certain Ref. 5512 Submariners from the late 1950s/early 1960s in which the guards are shaped like eagles’ beaks. (As opposed to the square style that preceded them, or the pointed style that followed.)

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 with Eagle Beak crown guards. HQ Milton

Explorer Dial: A dial featuring the Explorer I’s distinctive mix of dash, Arabic and triangular markers. This dial appeared on certain earlier Submariners such as the Ref. 6200 and certain 5513s.

1955 Rolex “Big Crown” Submariner 6200 Tropical Watch

Feet First: A dial in which the depth rating begins with feet rather than meters, i.e. “660ft=220m.” This may indicate that the watch in question—generally a Sub—was destined for the American market, but this is collector guesswork.

Vintage Rolex Submariner 5513 “Feet First” Dial (1972) Photo: Courtesy Bob’s Watches

Frog Foot: A particular type of Rolex coronet (crown) found on certain Rolex sport watches (reference 1016s, 1655s, etc.) made in the late 1960s through the mid-1970s, in which the coronet is wider and looks like the foot of…well….a frog.

Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016 with a Frog Foot Dial

Ghost Bezel: An aluminium bezel in which the colouring has faded—especially from black to blue or grayish.

Rolex GMT Master Ref. 1675 Ghost Bezel

Glossy Gilt Dial: A type of early Rolex dial in which the underlying brass dial blank is exposed, yielding text and other features (such as minute tracks, etc.) that looks golden in hue. These types of dials were eventually replaced by matte, and then by glossy dials with white printing and applied white gold surrounds.

Rolex GMT Master Ref. 1675 with a Glossy Gilt Dial

HEV: The “helium escape valve,” which features on certain Rolex Professional models such as the Sea-Dweller. This one-way valve allows helium molecules to escape the watch during decompression, which prevents the crystal from flying off the watch. (Yes—this is an actual problem—if you’re a saturation diver.)

Rolex Sea-Dweller

Matte Dial: A dial in use on Rolex sport watches (and others) from the mid-late 1960s through the mid-1980s. These did away with the “gilt” printing of the earlier gilt-gloss dials and instead featured a flat black surface with white text and painted tritium indices.

A Rolex Submariner with a Matte Dial. HQ Milton

Maxi Dial: A dial that features oversized lume plots for increased legibility.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513 with a Maxi Dial

Mercedes Hands: This is a unique Rolex handset featured on many references whose minute hand has a round portion divided into three equally sized portions—much like the Mercedes logo. (The first Sub to feature this handset is the Ref. 6204 from 1954.)

Rolex Ref. 124273 Oyster Perpetual with Mercedes Hands

Meters First: A dial in which the depth rating gives meters before feet, i.e. “200m=660ft.”

Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512 with a Meters First Dial

Neat Font: A dial style in which the printing is executed in a script that has been described as more standardised and “neater.” (Older Subs often feature printing that looks distinctly hand-drawn and messy.) Certain Ref. 5512 Subs feature such dials.

Rolex Ref. 5512 with a Neat Font Dial

Oyster: A highly water resistant case with a screw-down crown and screw-down caseback released in 1926 and featured on most Rolex watches ever since. (Currently, only the dressy Cellini doesn’t feature an Oyster case.)

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 126000 Models

PCG (Pointed Crown Guards): A crown guard style in which the crown guards are pointed, as opposed to squared or “eagle’s beak” guards. These can be found on Ref. 5512 Subs from roughly 1959-1963.

Rolex Submariners with Square (left) and Pointed Crown Guards

Small Crown: This term generally refers to early Subs that featured a smaller winding crown, such as the references 6204, 6205, 6536/1, and more.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 6204

Spider Dial: A type of glossy dial in which the lacquer coating has developed fine cracks, aka “crazing,” resulting in a spider web-like appearance. Though a definite defect, certain collectors are attracted to this look.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 16800 With a Spider Dial

Stella Dial: A brightly coloured, lacquered dial found on certain Day-Date watches from the 1970s and made for Rolex by a company called Stella. These were primarily meant for the Middle Eastern market.

Rolex Stella Dials

Swiss Exclamation Point Dial: A dial in which a small, circular lume plot below the vertical, rectangular one at 6 o’clock forms what looks like an exclamation point, which is joined by a “SWISS” signature below the chapter ring. This dial featured on Subs, Explorers, and GMT-Masters in the late 1950s/early 1960s for a time.

Rolex GMT Master Ref. 1675 with a Swiss Exclamation Point

Super Case: Sometimes mistakenly called a “maxi case,” this describes a Submariner or GMT-Master II case with fatter lugs and a larger bezel, giving the impression of a larger watch even though certain Super cases measure 40mm in diameter like their predecessors.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 116610 with a Super Case

Tapestry Dial: A dial that features vertical ridges. Sometimes found, for example, on 5-digit Datejusts from the late 1970s/early 1980s.

Rolex Ref. 18238 with a Tapestry Dial

Tropical: A black dial that has turned brown due to degradation of the paint used, possibly due to UV exposure, humidity, moisture, etc. These dials are highly desirable if even in their colouration.

Four tropical dial Rolexes offered at Bob’s Watches.
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Sitting on the Dock of Balmain

Is The Dry Dock Sydney’s Hottest New Pub Renovation?

By Belinda Aucott-christie 15/05/2024

At its peak, in the late 1890s, Balmain had 55 pubs. They were noisy watering holes that serviced thirsty hordes after a day’s labour at the suburb’s harbourside coal mine and shipyards. Today, Balmain is dotted with charming workers’ cottages set behind picket fences and stolid corner pubs, which have been converted into restaurants and homes.

One such establishment, the Dry Dock on Cameron Street, has undergone a multi-million dollar renovation. As an original public house built in 1857, it remains fixed in a local backstreet and offers a porthole to the suburb’s blue-collar roots.

Locals can still bring their dogs into the front bar, or retreat to the lounge to sit next to a crackling log fire. 

The renovation carried out by Studio Isgro and H&E Architects combines rustic touches—like the acid-etched sandstone exterior, exposed brickwork and beams  —with elegant light fittings, an incredible sound system and tasteful art. “It has a transportive, escapist quality, where you could be anywhere, or right at home,” says interior designer Bianca Isgro of Studio Isgro, who spent two years on the overhaul. Her team designed a modern gastropub on the site after gutting and stripping the building, which had been neglected for years. 

Founder and managing director James Ingram (ex-Solotel and Merivale) has assembled a warm, friendly service team that matches the pub’s character. He says his team has fought hard to preserve the pub’s long-standing connection to residents and to get the mix of old and new right.

“Balmain is home to so many devoted residents who are rightly proud of the suburb’s working-class roots,” says Ingram over a frothy beer in the warm-toned front bar.

“The Dry Dock has been designed to have that timeless feel that stands the test of time.” 

The large open kitchen features an oyster bar and serves French-style fare, delicious sides, and hot desserts. The wine list is on point, with something in every price range and a friendly sommelier doing the rounds. 

The kitchen is led by seasoned chef Ben Sitton, who previously rattled the pans at institutions including Felix, Uccello and Rockpool Bar & Grill. His kitchen faces a large dining room with unclothed tables, bentwood chairs, tumbled marble floors and exposed trusses that give it a contemporary feel.

The back of the room overlooks a walled garden, with a giant ghost gum at its centre and views of neighbouring residential fences. 

 

Chef Sitton says his team relishes the opportunity to cook from an expansive modern European repertoire with quality produce. The robust flavours and textures are centred around the smoky quality that comes from Josper charcoal grills, wood-fired ovens, and the rotisserie.  

You can order steak frites with charred baby carrots, or baked market fish with a cheesy, potato gratin.

The Peninsula Hospitality Group, the team behind Dry Dock, is now looking to expand its foothold in Balmain by opening at least one other venue.

Visit for the food, stay for the vibe.

The Dry Dock, Public House & Dining Room, 22 Cameron Street, Balmain, NSW 2041. P: 02 9555 1306; drydock.com.au

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How To Drink Salon, Guilt-Free with Nick Hildebrandt

Once-in-a-Lifetime Wines By The Glass Come to Melbourne’s Atria and Sydney’s Bentley Restaurant + Bar

By Belinda Aucott-christie 15/05/2024

Want to eat a succulent starter of pearl meat and smoked lime butter with a glass of 2013 Champagne Salon? Or sink your teeth into chef’s cut Tallow-age beef while sipping a silky glass of 2021 Bass Phillip Pinot Noir?

This month you can. 

All through May, wine-loving patrons can order such rare drops by the glass at Michael Greenlaw’s Atria at The Ritz-Carlton in Melbourne, and Brent Savage’s The Bentley Restaurant + Bar in Sydney. Think glasses of Margaux  for around $70 and Crozes-Hermitage for under $50.

These precious wines that never grace wine lists, let alone by-the-glass menus, are being offered at 50% below the expected by-the-glass price, courtesy of Coravin’s World Wine Tour. 

Coravin is the life-preserving wine tech that allows oenophiles to pour vintage wines without removing the cork. The patented needle and gas system allows for the extraction of fine wine, without exposing the precious vintages to ruinous oxygen.

“This is a great initiative,” says owner and sommelier Nick Hildebrandt from his dimly-lit ground floor venue The Bentley Restaurant + Bar.. 

“This May we have the opportunity to pour by the glass some of the world’s most sought after wines. Especially Champagne Salon, which is extremely rare, and my favourite Champagne of all time,” he says beaming at the thought of serving the scarce blanc de blancs.

“We have a large following of loyal wine lovers who come to our restaurants and they are super excited to taste these wines at a reasonable price.”

The smiling sommelier continues, “Our guests will have the opportunity to taste a selection of famous and rare wines in pristine condition without spending hundreds or, in some instances, thousands on a bottle.” 

Until the end of May, patrons can sample wines from a limited list expertly curated by Coravin, featuring local and international gems. Learn more about Coravin’s World Wine Tour here.

To book visit Atria or Bentley Restaurant + Bar

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Painted Black

Dion Lee is teaming up with Cho Cho San for an Australian Fashion Week event.

By Horacio Silva 10/05/2024

The more things change, the more things stay the same. Nowhere more than in the fashion world. Despite the vagaries of taste, black remains the go-to colour of choice. Fitting, then, that for next week’s Australian Fashion Week, the perennially black-clad media darling Dion Lee has partnered with Pott’s Point Izakaya joint Cho Cho San on a black-themed late-night ramen bar.

Lee, based in New York and not showing in Sydney next week, has worked with the restaurant to create a menu inspired by his inky, haute-industrial aesthetic and favourite flavours.

As part of the signature offering ($50pp) guests are offered “Dion’s Martini” on arrival (his take on the classic vodka drink spiked with a black olive, natch), a Tokyo-style shoyu ramen with shitake mushrooms, smoked daikon and crunchy tempura shiso leaf, and a winning black sesame and cocoa soft-serve ice-cream replete with black cone. (Trust us, it tastes infinitely better than it sounds.)

Lee rarely strays outside his fashion lane, but a little blackbirdie tells us to expect an announcement soon about a major new collaboration. Let’s hope it involves black ice cream.

Cho Cho San x Dion Lee: Late Night Ramen Bar

Available from May 13-16, 5pm to late.

Signature set: $50pp includes Dion’s Martini, Tokyo Shoyu Ramen and Black Sesame Soft Serve.

To book click here

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A New Chapter for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Stories’

A special Reverso exhibit arrives in Sydney this week.

By Josh Bozin 08/05/2024

Few watch enthusiasts would be unfamiliar with Jaeger-LeCoultre and its enduring Reverso collection. Since 1931, the Reverso has been celebrated as one of the great dress watches of the 20th century.

In recent years, the watch has gone from strength to strength—in 2023 alone, we received the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, the impressive Duoface Tourbillon, and the slimmer Reverso Tribute Small Seconds—capturing the imagination of casual observers, collectors, and those looking to scale the horological ladder.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

It is also part of the cultural conversation thanks to exceptional branding experiences, such as ‘Reverso Stories’, a travelling experiential trunk show. Jaeger-LeCoultre is again summoning its movable experience to Australia, this time in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. For a limited time, eager fans can glimpse the Reverso collection up close via a multi-sensory exhibition tracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.

Presented in four chapters ( Icon, Style and design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship), the Reverso story will be told through the lens of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expert watchmakers, who combine nine decades of craftsmanship, inventiveness, and design into one interactive experience.

As a bonus, guests will be privy to a large-scale art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang—commissioned by the Maison under its ‘Made of Makers’ programme—and the launch of three exceptional new Reverso timepieces, yet to be revealed. These watches will showcase skills such as enamelling, gold-leaf paillonage, and gem-setting, mastered by the manufacturer’s in-house Métiers Rares (Rare Handcrafts) atelier.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Completing the immersion into the spirit of Art Deco, guests will be able to enjoy a complementary refreshment post-experience at the pop-up Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Café.

‘Reverso Stories’ will be held in Sydney’s Martin Place from 10–19 May 2024. It will be open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (and 5 p.m. on Sundays) and free to the public. Visitors are welcome to book online here or register upon arrival.

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

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Thanks to Coravin, You Can Order the World’s Best Wines by the Glass

The Coravin World Wine Tour offers foodies exceptional wines by the glass at two Australian restaurants.

By Josh Bozin 15/05/2024

Before 2013, the idea of preserving (expensive) wine was a real issue for wine connoisseurs, professional and otherwise. That was until Greg Lambrecht stepped in.

To save exceptional wine from spoiling, the American inventor created the Coravin, a preservation and pouring device that extracts wine from the bottle without compromising its taste or pressure. In other words, if you wanted to enjoy a glass of that Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux you’ve been saving but don’t want to finish the entire bottle, you wouldn’t put a silver teaspoon in the bottleneck and hope for the best. You’d use a Coravin.

“It’s always been my dream to enable wine lovers to drink whatever they want, whenever they want, in the quantity that is right for that moment,” Lambrecht tells Robb Report. “Some nights, that may be just one or two glasses from an incredible bottle of wine or maybe treating yourself to a fine Champagne, and with Coravin you can do this without feeling the pressure to finish the bottle or risk of throwing wine away when it’s past its prime.”

Coravin changed the game and is arguably one of the best advancements in modern Oenology. It has become a mainstay in the wine and hospitality industry globally, with most top-end restaurants and sommeliers utilising of its many iterations to service varied worldly wines.

Today, 11 years later, Coravin celebrates its achievements in the wine industry with an official, inaugural Coravin World Wine Tour. Wine connoisseurs who dream of tasting some of the best wines from around the world at almost 50 percent below the standard price, take heed.

For the month of May, patrons can sample wines from a limited list expertly curated by Coravin. The list features local and international wines of recognition that rarely grace restaurant lists, let alone by-the-glass.

Bentley Restaurant in Sydney and Atria at The Ritz-Carlton Melbourne will be serving customers exceptional, high-profile wines by the glass using the innovative Coravin wine serving system until May 31st. If you fancy indulging in some of the world’s rarest wines, such as Champagne Salon ‘S’ Blanc de Blanc Brut 2013—which retails for $3,800 a bottle and will be served by the glass exclusively at Bentley—or scarcely available Australian wines such as Bass Phillip Pinot Noir 2021 and Bass Phillip Chardonnay 2021, this is your chance.

“A notable trend in the industry is many venues are starting to offer alternative pour sizes, to suit single diners or tables of two better. This is to ensure a more comprehensive wine experience at the venue, without needing to commit to a full bottle or wines that are not available in a half bottle format,” says Sean Lam, head sommelier at Atria.

“Coravin technology enhances the traditional wine-tasting experience and elevates the overall dining journey. At Atria, for example, we can offer side-by-side a Margaret River Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay and a Premier Cru Chablis, and all three wines are in peak condition.”

Christopher Tan, director at Bass Phillip, adds that it’s a privilege to contribute to Coravin’s first World Wine Tour. “We are talking about wines that would be the envy of any serious wine collection, so it’s outstanding to see these being served in restaurants, let alone by the glass.”

Atria Melbourne

In addition to Australia, the Coravin World Wine Tour will also run in the UK, Italy, and France. To experience this special Coravin first-hand, Sydneysiders can make a reservation at Bentley Restaurant + Bar and Melburnians at Atria at The Ritz-Carlton anytime this month.

For more information, visit Coravin.

 

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