Patek Philippe’s New Ultra-Precise Chronograph

The platinum 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph features seven exclusive patents.

By Paige Reddinger 07/04/2022

Watches and Wonders, the world’s largest tradeshow for timepieces, just ended. But Patek Philippe, which launched 12 new timepieces during the event, wasn’t done with its new releases.

On Wednesday, the Swiss watchmaker launched a sporty new high-performance grand complication, the 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph. The watch, Ref. 5470P-001, marks the first time the company has created a chronograph that can measure and display tenths of a second in a wristwatch and it comes with a whopping 31 patents, seven of which are exclusive to this reference. The manually-wound Calibre CH29-535 PS 1/10 chronograph movement features a column-wheel control, a horizontal dual-clutch with wheels and an instantaneous 30-minute counter, a 10ths-of-a-second module for measurements of the chronograph’s sweep hand and a small seconds indicator.

“We have been working altogether,” said Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern in a broadcast aired Wednesday morning. “The first part, of course, which was the most important was the movement. It’s not always easy to create a wristwatch with so many components and so much difficulty.” He added that the idea for the piece began as far back as 10 years ago when the company was thinking about how it could improve its CHR 29-535 PS split-seconds chronograph movement (found in all hand-wound chronographs at the company, with or without additional complications), first introduced in 2009, on which the new calibre is based. “We couldn’t do it at the time because the technology didn’t allow us to have a piece that was thin enough,” said Stern. The idea was that it not only had to be a technical achievement but, per Patek Philippe standards, it also had to look exceptional on the wrist.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph Patek Philippe

Improvements were plentiful. The split-seconds mechanism was replaced by the indication measure 10ths of a second. The frequency was increased from 4Hz to 5Hz, a requirement to display the ultra-accurate new measurement. “We have equipped [the base movement] with the Oscillomax, previously developed within our advanced research department for ref 5550P,” said Philip Barat, head of Patek Philippe’s watch development during the broadcast. “The Oscillomax consists of the Pulsomax escapement, the Gyromax balance and the Spiromax balance spring, all made of Silinvar and of Silinvar and gold for the Gyromax.”

 

Patek Philippe Caliber CH 29- 535 PS 1/10

Patek Philippe Calibre CH 29- 535 PS 1/10 Patek Philippe

The Oscillomax, developed in 2011, is a high-tech regulator mechanism boasting 17 patents, which enables a high rate of accuracy with a maximum deviation of -3/+2 seconds per day despite the elevated energy consumption of the movement. This marks the first time since the introduction of the Ref. 5550P in 2011, that the Oscillomax will be used for a timepiece in the current collection. The Oscillomax operates with a balance spring with a patented terminal curve called the Spiromx and an escapement with a lever and escape wheel, known as the Pulsomax, and an adjustable mass balance wheel, a.k.a. the Gyromax. They are all made from a derivative of silicon, called Silinvar, which is known for being lightweight, rugged and antimagnetic.

The list of complicated achievements is nearly endless. The movement consists of two superimposed chronograph mechanisms—a chronograph of this nature, by the way, can be as challenging to conceive as horology’s most lauded complication, the minute repeater—which required the development of 54 components for the 10th of a second mechanism alone. (The superimposing of the chronograph mechanisms is essentially a space saver to keep the piece thin per Stern’s standards.) The indication required a specific gear train in order to ensure the fluidity of its movement and the reliability of its timekeeping on the wrist. A pinion for the 10th of a second mechanism has micro-toothing that controls the correct start of the time measurement when the chronograph is activated, while a driving wheel aids the smooth movement of the hand.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph

Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P-001 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph Patek Philippe

While these details will certainly appeal to collectors who appreciate technical achievements in a movement—a focus for Stern, who is keen on flexing the company’s know-how in the age of the Nautilus craze—it is surprisingly, simple to read despite its very challenging engineering (although you might need a magnifying glass to read the minute segments). When the two sweep hands are activated via the pusher at 2 o’clock, the red 10th of a second hand turns around the dial 10 times faster than the rhodium sandblasted steel seconds hand. When the latter is stopped, it can be read via the dotted bead markers around the circumference (as pictured, it is indicating 20 seconds). The red hand is measured by the white markers segmented by 12 red sectors (the red sectors indicate a full second, while the white markers indicated 10ths of a second). As pictured, the red hand is indicating that a full 10 tenths of a second has been reached at the red line. If the red hand was positioned one increment further it would read an additional 1/10th of a second. The hour and minutes are, of course, traditionally displayed by two 18-karat white gold hands (indicating 10:09 as pictured), while the chronograph counters are shown in a snailed small seconds at 9 o’clock and snailed 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock. The crown has two positions: the first for winding the movement and the second for setting the time.

To drive home the message that this is no ordinary sports watch, Patek Philippe chose to encase the Ref. 5470P in platinum and, as such, like all other Patek Philippe timepieces in the elite metal, it comes with a diamond on the rim of the case at 6 o’clock. The case, which was inspired by the design of the Ref. 5370, comes with recessed and satin-finished flanks with lugs adorned with decorative cabochon. The dial comes in blue lacquer topped off with a slightly domed sapphire crystal. It is fitted with a navy-blue calfskin strap with an embossed fabric pattern, red stitching and a platinum foldover clasp.

The price is, naturally, upon request.

The 7 Patents Exclusive to the Patek Philippe Ref. 5470P:

Concentric display

This assures simple, swift, and safe legibility of seconds and fractions of a second.

Notch in the barrel arbor

The notch reduces the tension exerted by the spring hook while the mainspring is being wound and allows a smaller diameter of the barrel arbor, increasing the energy stored in the mainspring by further spring coils.

1/10 driving wheel with anti-backlash feature

Designed on two levels (an upper wheel with flexible spokes and a lower one with rigid spokes), it allows the creation of an anti-backlash wheel that is compact and consumes little energy.

Chronograph with shock-absorber hook

In the event of a shock, this system securely holds the clutch rocker of the operating chronograph mechanism to prevent disruptions of the ongoing short-time measurement.

Pendulum shock absorber

This system utilizes the acceleration forces of shocks on the watch to keep the components of a mechanism in the desired position and thus to assure correct functionality.

Surface primer for the silicon hand

This improves the adhesion of lacquer on a silicon-oxide surface (Silinvar).

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, there are four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version has an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel; it will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics. Turn over each timepiece, and instead of a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplantis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, the all-gold Speedmaster is 85K at the top end of the scale, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. By comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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