Omega’s New Minute Repeating Chronographs Are Powered By Mind-Blowing New Movement

The Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 1932 is the most complicated movement the company has ever produced.

By Oren Hartov 28/10/2022

If you’ve been around the watch world long enough, you’re no doubt familiar with some of the more esoteric complications, such as split-second chronographs and minute repeaters. The former, for the uninitiated, features two second hands and is used to time successive events, while the latter incorporates tiny gongs and hammers to audibly chime the time. Each is difficult to execute — especially the minute repeater — and each is part of the catalogue of most of the high-end Swiss watchmakers.

Omega has long been a master of both of these complications: Its first minute repeater was an enamel dialled beauty from way back in 1895, and it created split-second chronographs to time the 1932 Olympics in Los Angeles. These days, of course, the brand is known mostly for its “tool watches” such as the Speedmaster and the Seamaster. But Raynald Aeschlimann, Omega’s president and CEO, was hardly keen to rest on those laurels. Six years ago, he began pushing the Swatch Group’s flagship watchmaker into bolder territory, challenging Omega to delve into previously uncharted waters with an entirely new complication.

Omega’s Olympic 1932 Chrono Chime combines elements of the company’s 19th-century minute repeater and its 1932 split-seconds chronographs.
Omega

Well, here you have it: The appropriately titled Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 1932. This incredible new calibre—the result of a single Omega watchmaker’s efforts—is beyond anything the maison has ever designed and built before, with respect both to conception and engineering. The 1932 is a split-seconds chronograph that audibly chimes elapsed time, and it does so using a METAS-certified movement that runs at 5 Hz, which is the territory of high-beat movements such as Zenith’s famed El Primero. It utilises a mind-blowing 575 components without counting those for the gongs, and required the filing of 13 patents. (Four more were necessary for the case of one of the watches into which the movement is fitted—more on that in a moment.)

As it wasn’t possible to simply re-engineer another Omega movement to run at 5 Hz and include this new complication, the brand’s engineers had to begin from scratch, resulting in the most complicated Omega calibre ever produced. Working with Blancpain—Omega’s sister company within the Swatch Group—the brand was able to develop a sort of mechanical computer to seamlessly mesh the chronograph and minute repeater functions together.

The intricate Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 1932 movement scored 13 new patents on its way from concept to creation.
Omega

Having it run at 5 Hz was essential, as the watch needed to display 1/10ths of a second, like the split-second chronograph stopwatches from the 1932 Olympic Games. Additionally, Omega’s team needed to add a chiming section with a security function that would prevent the wearer from accidentally repressing the wrong actuator. Without such a safety system, it could potentially damage such a delicate movement.

But there’s more. In order to achieve Master Chronometer status, Omega had to use 50 non-ferrous components, replacing typical metal parts with silicon and other alternatives. The manufacture managed all this, and with flying colours: The finished movement is beautiful to behold, and unlike anything the brand—or any other brand, frankly—has released before. It features both satin brushing and mirror-polished textures, as well as nearly 50 grams of gold. And it sounds like a dream, with three separate gong sequences that ring the time. (A low gong sounds the minutes, a double-gong sounds 1/6th-minutes, i.e. 40 seconds, and a high gong sounds the seconds.)

But enough about a movement. Where does this calibre fit into the greater Omega catalogue? The answer is actually two different watches: The first is the Olympic 1932 Chrono Chime, which combines elements of Omega’s 19th-century minute repeater and its 1932 split-seconds chronographs. Housed in an 18-karat Sedna Gold case, it has the look of an antique pocket watch conversion/early wristwatch—but upon careful inspection, the Calibre 1932 pokes through. Take a look at 5 o’clock, and you’ll notice a chime pusher protruding from the case that’s used to actuate the repeater function, while a separate pusher at 11 o’clock controls the split-seconds function.

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The Olympic 1932 Chrono Chime features a Grand Feu enamel dial and a silver guilloché bezel and subdials.
Omega

A “Grand Feu” enamel dial features a handmade, silver guilloché bezel and subdials in a unique “acoustic wave” pattern inspired by sound waves, while a 15-minute counter is situated at 12 o’clock, a 60-second counter is featured at 6 o’clock, and the watch’s dual hammers are visible in a cutout at 5 and 6 o’clock. Thoughtful touches include an 8th note motif on the chime pusher, a color-coordinated split-seconds hand and pusher, and the elegant Arabic typography and red Omega wordmark and logo of the late 19th and early 20th century.

When actuated, the watch’s dual hammers strike Sedna Gold gongs connected to the case body—this in turn produces the audible chime that corresponds to the time read on the chronograph display. (Pretty. Freakin. Cool.) Flip the watch over, and through the sapphire caseback, you can easily view the movement ticking away within. Paired with a brown leather strap with an 18-karat Sedna Gold buckle and a new, patented quick-change system, the Chrono Chime ships in a special, acoustically tuned walnut presentation box with an additional strap and two leather cords that allow it to also be worn as a pocket watch, or as a stopwatch around the neck.

Omega’s Speedmaster Chrono Chime is housed in a 45 mm solid gold case.
Omega

If all this sounds too esoteric, there’s also the new Speedmaster Chrono Chime. The brand took the 1932 and fit it into a special Speedmaster case, meaning you can chime the time with a more modern-looking watch on your wrist—albeit one made of solid gold. Housed in a 45 mm 18-karat Sedna Gold case moulded after the second-generation CK-2998 Speedmaster, which debuted 60 years ago in 1962, this Speedy features a blue aventurine “Grand Feu” enamel dial that sparkles like the night sky.

With inner bezels and sundials in 18-karat Sedna Gold “acoustic waves” patterns, it features diamond-polished, gold indexes and hands, blued CVD sundial hands, and a red-tipped split-seconds hand. The movement has been rotated 45 degrees from that of its Olympics-themed cousin, resulting in the two hammers being visible at 9 o’clock. Paired with a matching 18-karat Sedna Gold bracelet, the Speedy also features its own walnut presentation box with a special resonance plate and a sapphire display caseback.

Folks will inevitably ask themselves who the end customer is for such a watch, and it’s a fair question. Omega will only be able to complete roughly five movements per year, and the retail for each watch is “upon request”—read: multiple hundreds of thousands of dollars. Of course, such timepieces aren’t conceptualised and built merely to satisfy the most diehard Omega collectors, though certainly, they’ll have first dibs. Rather, they’re constructed in order to prove the watchmaker’s horological prowess.

The Olympic 1932 Chrono Chime can be worn as a wrist watch or as a pocket watch.
Omega

“I’ve been with Omega for 26 years,” Aeschlimann said. “I remember that there was a moment where we had to reconstruct some of the lines, work on new developments and also, at the same time, think about, ‘What is Omega?’ What is it? And not making just another [vintage-inspired] watch—I would not have accepted making a one-to-one copy of the minute repeater of 1895. It was, for me, creating this incredible magic that you can have with Omega by linking that [history]. That was part of the pressure and part of the discussion…because the mission was clearly Chrono Chime, or nothing.”

Indeed, the company has conceptualised and executed a completely new complication and the results speak for themselves. The resulting watches housing the movement are an exciting testament to Omega’s watchmaking expertise and an interesting new take on its history through an entirely new lens.

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Timeless Glamour & Music Aboard The Venice Simplon-Orient Express

Lose yourself in a luxury journey, aboard an Art Deco train from Paris

By Belinda Aucott 03/11/2023

Watching the unseen corners of Europe unfold gently outside your train, window can be thirsty work, right? That’s why Belmond Hotels is once again staging a culinary train journey from Paris to Venice, aboard the glittering Art Deco carriages of the Venice Simplon-Orient Express.

To celebrate diversity and inclusion in the LBTQ+ community, another unforgettable train ride is slated for 2 November.

On the journey, ample servings of decadent cuisine will be served and live entertainment will play looooong into the night. Trans-DJ Honey Dijon and Dresden’s Purple Disco Machine are both part of the disco-house line-up.

Passengers are encouraged to dress in black-tie or cocktail attire, before they head to the bar and dining carriages to enjoy their night, where they are promised ‘unapologetic extravagance’,.

Negronis, martinis, spritzes and sours will all be on offer as the sunlight fades.

So-hot-right-now French chef Jean Imbert is also in the kitchen rattling the pans for guests.

Imber puts a garden-green-goodness twist on Gallic traditions. He regularly cooks for the who’s-who. Imbert recently co-created a food concept for Dior in Paris, worked with Pharrell Williams to present a dinner in Miami, and he’s even been invited to Cheval Blanc St-Barth to cater luxe LVMH-owned property.

The young chef is vowing to create no less than ‘culinary perfection’ in motion with his own passion for fresh seasonal produce. There’ll be plenty of Beluga caviar, seared scallops, and lobster vol-au-vents.

“I want to create beautiful moments which complement the train, which is the true star,” says Imbert of his hands-on approach to delectable pastries and twists on elegant Euro classics.

“Its unique legacy is something we take pride in respecting, while evolving a new sense of style and purpose that will captivate a new generation.”

Check the timetable for the itinerary of lush inclusions here.

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Gentlemanly Restraint 

Art and science collide in the the newly released BR03A watch collection by Bell & Ross.

By Belinda Aucott 02/11/2023

In keeping with the brand’s design salute to aviation and military equipment, the pared-back face of the Bell & Ross BR03 Automatic takes its cue from the instrumentation in cockpits. It’s unabashedly minimal and confidently masculine style is set to make it a future classic.

Faithful to the codes that underpin the brand’s identity, the new utilitarian offerings sit within a smaller 41-mm case (a slight departure from the original at 42 mm Diver, Chrono or GMT.) and has a reduced lug width and slimmer hands. The changes extend to the watch movement, which has been updated with a BR-CAL.302 calibre. The watch is waterproof to 300 metres and offers a power reserve of 54 hours.

While the new collection offers an elegant sufficiency of colourways, from a stealthy black to more decorative bronze face with a tan strap, each is a faithful rendition of the stylish “rounded square, four-screw” motif that is Bell & Ross’s calling card.

 

 

For extra slickness, the all-black Phantom and Nightlum models have a stealthy, secret-agent appeal, offering up a new take on masculine restraint.

Yet even the more decorative styles, like the black face with contrasting army-green band, feel eminently versatile and easy to wear. The 60’s simplicity and legibility of the face is what makes it so distinctive and functional.

For example, the BR 03-92 Nightlum, with its black matte case and dial, and bright green indices and hands, offers a great contrast during the day and emits useful luminosity at night.

A watch that begs to be read, the the BR03-A stands up to scrutiny, and looks just as good next to a crisp, white cuff as it does at the end of a matte, black wetsuit.

That’s a claim not many watch collections can make. 

Explore the collection.

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First Drive: The Porsche 911 S/T Is a Feral Beast That Handles the Road Like an Olympic Bobsledder

The commemorative model borrows underpinnings from the GT3 RS and includes a 518 hp engine.

By Basem Wasef 23/10/2023

The soul of any sports car comes down to the alchemy of its tuning—how the engine, suspension, and chassis blend into a chorus of sensations. The secret sauce of the new Porsche 911 S/T, developed as a tribute to the 60th anniversary of the brand’s flagship model, is more potent than most; in fact, it makes a serious case for being the most driver-focused 911 of all time.

Sharing the S/T designation with the homologation special from the 1960s, the (mostly) innocuously styled commemorative model borrows underpinnings from the more visually extroverted GT3 RS. Yet what the S/T, starting at $290,000, lacks in fender cutouts and massive spoilers it makes up for in directness: a flat-six power plant that revs to 9,000 rpm, a motorsport-derived double-wishbone suspension, and a manual gearbox. It’s a delightfully feral combination.

Rossen Gargolov

Whereas the automatic-transmission GT3 RS is ruthlessly configured for maximum downforce and minimum lap times, the S/T is dialed in for the road—particularly the Southern Italian ones on which we’re testing the car, which happen to be the very same used by product manager Uwe Braun, Andreas Preuninger, head of Porsche’s GT line, and racing legend Walter Röhrl to finalize its calibration. The car reacts to throttle pressure with eerie deftness, spinning its 518 hp engine with thrilling immediacy, thanks to shorter gear ratios.

The steering response is similarly transparent, as direct as an unfiltered Marlboro, and the body follows with the agility of an Olympic bobsledder. Some of that purity of feeling is the result of addition through subtraction: Power-sapping elements including a hydraulic clutch and rear-axle steering were ditched, which also enabled the battery to be downsized for even more weight savings. The final result, with its carbon-fiber body panels, thinner glass, magnesium wheels, and reduced sound deadening, is the lightest 992-series variant on record, with roughly the same mass as the esteemed 911 R from 2016.

Driver engagement is further bolstered by the astounding crispness of the short-throw gearbox. The S/T fits hand in glove with narrow twisties and epic sweepers, or really any stretch that rewards mechanical grip and the ability to juke through hairpin corners. The cabin experience is slightly less raucous than the 911 R, but more raw than the wingless 911 GT3 Touring, with an intrusive clatter at idle due to the single-mass flywheel and featherlight clutch. Porsche cognoscenti will no doubt view the disturbance in the same way that hardcore Ducatisti revere the tambourine-like rattle of a traditional dry clutch: as an analog badge of honor.

The main bragging right, though, may just be owning one. In a nod to the year the 911 debuted, only 1,963 examples of the S/T will be built. Considering the seven-year-old 911 R started life at$295,000 and has since fetched upwards of $790,000, this new lightweight could bring proportionately heavy returns—if you can be pried from behind the wheel long enough to sell it, that is.

Images by Rossen Gargolov

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From Electric Surfboards to Biodegradable Golf Balls: 8 Eco-Conscious Yacht Toys for Green and Clean Fun

Just add water and forget the eco-guilt.

By Gemma Harris 18/10/2023

Without toys, yachts would be kind of sedentary. There’s nothing wrong with an alfresco meal, sunsets on the flybridge and daily massages. But toys add zest to life on board, while creating a deeper connection with the water. These days, there are a growing number of options for eco-friendly gadgets and equipment that deliver a greener way to play. These eight toys range from do-it-yourself-propulsion (waterborne fitness bikes) to electric foiling boards, from kayaks made of 100 percent recycled plastics to non-toxic, biodegradable golf balls with fish food inside. Your on-water adrenaline rushes don’t always have to be about noise and gas fumes. They can be fun, silent, and eco-conscious.

A game of golf isn’t just for land. Guests can play their best handicap from the deck with Albus Golf’s eco-friendly golf balls. The ecological and biodegradable golf balls are 100 percent safe for marine flora and fauna, and manufactured with non-contaminating materials. The balls will biodegrade within 48 hours after hitting the ocean and release the fish food contained in their core. For a complete golfing experience, add a floating FunAir green. From $3100 (FunAir Yacht Golf) and $315 a box (golf balls). funair.com

Fliteboard Series 2.0

The future of surf is electric, and Fliteboard offers an emissions-free and environmentally friendly electric hydrofoil. Flying over the water has never been as efficient and low impact, using new technologies with less than 750 watts of electric power. This second series boasts various performance factors for all riding styles. It also features an increased trigger range from 20 to 40 degrees for more precision and control. Fliteboard designed this series for every possible foiling ability, from newbies to wave-carvers. From $22,000. fliteboard.com

Manta 5 Hydrofoiler XE-1

Hailing from New Zealand and using America’s Cup technology, Manta 5 offers the first hydrofoil bike. The Hydrofoiler XE-1 replicates the cycling experience on the water. Powered by fitness-level pedaling and assisted by the onboard battery, top speeds can reach up to 19 km per hour. The two hydrofoils are carbon fibre, and the frame is aircraft-grade aluminium. The onboard Garmin computer will relay all the stats. The effortless gliding sensation will accompany you through a workout, exploration or just circling the boat. From $950. manta5.com

Mo-Jet’s Jet Board

Imagine five toys in one: The Mo Jet delivers just that. From jet surfing, bodyboarding, and e-foiling to scooter diving. This versatile, German-built toy is perfect for those who cannot decide. The Mo-jet uses a cool modular system allowing you to switch between activities. Whether you want to stand, be dragged around or dive, you can have it all. It even has a life-saving module and a 2.8m rescue electric surfboard. Made from environmentally friendly and recyclable polyethene, it also ticks the eco-conscious boxes. Complete with an 11kW electric water jet, it charges in 75 mins, offering up to 30 mins of fun. Adrenaline junkies will also not be disappointed, since speed surges from 0 to 27 knots in 3 seconds. From $18,000. mo-jet.com

Silent Yachts Tender ST400

Driven by innovation and solar energy, Silent Yachts recently launched its first electric tender, the ST400. The 13-footer has clean-cut lines and is built with either an electric jet drive or a conventional electric outboard engine. The ST400 reaches speeds above 20 knots. From $110,000. silent-yachts.com

Osiris Outdoor ‘Reprisal’ Kayak

Kayaks are ideal for preserving and protecting nature, but they’re usually manufactured with materials that will last decades longer than we will and therefore not too eco-friendly. Founded by US outdoor enthusiasts, Osiris Outdoor has created a new type of personal boat. “The Reprisal” kayak is manufactured in the US entirely from recycled plastics (around 27 kgs) that are purchased from recycling facilities. The sustainable manufacturing process isn’t its only selling point; the lightweight Reprisals have spacious storage compartments, rod holders and a watertight hatch for gadgets. Complete with a matte-black finish for a stylish look. From $1100. osirisoutdoor.com

The Fanatic Ray Eco SUP Paddleboard

Declared as the most sustainable SUP, the Ray Eco is the brainchild of the Zero Emissions Project and BoardLab, supported by Fanatic. Glass and carbon fibre have been replaced with sustainable Kiri tree wood. And you can forget toxic varnishes and resins; organic linseed oil has been used to seal the board and maintain its durability. This fast, light, and stable board is truly one of a kind, not available off the rack. This craftsman’s love for detail and preservation is another first-class quality of the board. From $10,000 boardlab.de

Northern Light Composite X Clean Sailors EcoOptimist

One of the most popular, single-handed dinghies in sailing’s history, the tiny Optimist has undergone a sustainable revival. Northern Light Composites and not-for-profit Clean Sailors have teamed up to launch the first sustainable and recyclable Optimist. Using natural fibres and eco-sustainable resins, The EcoOptimist supports a new circular economy in yachting. OneSail also produces the sail with a low-carbon-footprint manufacturing process. From $6000. ecooptisailing.com

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The 50 Best Cocktail Bars in the World, According to a New Ranking

The World’s 50 Best organisation gave the Spanish bar Sips top honours during an awards ceremony in Singapore.

By Tori Latham 18/10/2023

If you’re looking for the best bar in the world, you better head to Barcelona.
Sips, from the industry luminaries Simone Caporale and Marc Álvarez, was named the No. 1 bar on the planet in the latest World’s 50 Best Bars ranking. The organisation held its annual awards ceremony on Tuesday in Singapore, the first time it hosted the gathering in Asia. Sips, which only opened two years ago, moved up to the top spot from No. 3 last year.
“Sips was destined for greatness even before it rocketed into the list at No. 37 just a few short months after opening in 2021,” William Drew, the director of content for 50 Best, said in a statement.
“The bar seamlessly translates contemporary innovation and technical precision into a playful cocktail programme, accompanied by the warmest hospitality, making it a worthy winner of The World’s Best Bar 2023 title.”
Coming in second was North America’s best bar: New York City’s Double Chicken Please. The top five was rounded out by Mexico City’s Handshake Speakeasy, Barcelona’s Paradiso (last year’s No. 1), and London’s Connaught Bar. The highest new entry was Seoul’s Zest at No. 18, while the highest climber was Oslo’s Himkok, which moved up to No. 10 from No. 43 last year.
Barcelona may be home to two of the top five bars, but London has cemented its status as the cocktail capital of the world: The English city had five bars make the list, more than any other town represented. Along with Connaught Bar in the top five, Tayēr + Elementary came in at No. 8, and Satan’s Whiskers (No. 28), A Bar With Shapes for a Name (No. 35), and Scarfes Bar (No. 41) all made the grade too.
The United States similarly had a good showing this year. New York City, in particular, is home to a number of the best bars: Overstory (No. 17) and Katana Kitten (No. 27) joined Double Chicken Please on the list.
Elsewhere, Miami’s Café La Trova hit No. 24 and New Orleans’s Jewel of the South snuck in at No. 49, bringing the Big Easy back to the ranking for the first time since 2014.
To celebrate their accomplishments, all of this year’s winners deserve a drink—made by somebody else at least just this once.
Check out the full list of the 50 best bars in the world below.
1. Sips, Barcelona
2. Double Chicken Please, New York
3. Handshake Speakeasy, Mexico City
4. Paradiso, Barcelona
5. Connaught Bar, London
6. Little Red Door, Paris
7. Licorería Limantour, Mexico City
8. Tayēr + Elementary, London
9. Alquímico, Cartagena
10. Himkok, Oslo
11. Tres Monos, Buenos Aires
12. Line, Athens
13. BKK Social Club, Bangkok
14. Jigger & Pony, Singapore
15. Maybe Sammy, Sydney
16. Salmon Guru, Madrid
17. Overstory, New York
18. Zest, Seoul
19. Mahaniyom Cocktail Bar, Bangkok
20. Coa, Hong Kong
21. Drink Kong, Rome
22. Hanky Panky, Mexico City
23. Caretaker’s Cottage, Melbourne
24. Café La Trova, Miami
25. Baba au Rum, Athens
26. CoChinChina, Buenos Aires
27. Katana Kitten, New York
28. Satan’s Whiskers, London
29. Wax On, Berlin
30. Florería Atlántico, Buenos Aires
31. Röda Huset, Stockholm
32. Sago House, Singapore
33. Freni e Frizioni, Rome
34. Argo, Hong Kong
35. A Bar With Shapes for a Name, London
36. The SG Club, Tokyo
37. Bar Benfiddich, Tokyo
38. The Cambridge Public House, Paris
39. Panda & Sons, Edinburgh
40. Mimi Kakushi, Dubai
41. Scarfes Bar, London
42. 1930, Milan
43. Carnaval, Lima
44. L’Antiquario, Naples
45. Baltra Bar, Mexico City
46. Locale Firenze, Florence
47. The Clumsies, Athens
48. Atlas, Singapore
49. Jewel of the South, New Orleans
50. Galaxy Bar, Dubai

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