From MB&F To Hermès: All The Winners Of The GPHG Watchmaking Awards

The Oscars of the horological world crowned a slate of impressive new achievements.

By Carol Besler 14/11/2022

Every year at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève watchmakers compete to take home a medal for their engineering and craftsmanship. This year, several brands were taking home not one but two medals. MB&F, Hermès, Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arpels were all double winners at the 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie Genève.

The top prize, the Aiguille d’or Grand Prix, was awarded to MB&F (Max Büsser & Friends) for the Legacy Machine Sequential Evo, a dual chronograph with two complete chronographs that allow multiple timing modes: split-second, independent, lap timer and even a “chess match” timing mode, a combination of functions never seen before in a chronograph. It has a world-first patented “twinverter” binary switch that switches the start/stop status of the LM Sequential EVO’s dual chronographs simultaneously. Each chronograph can be started, stopped, and reset completely independently of the other, using the start/stop and reset pushers on their respective sides of the case. The manual wound movement, created by Belfast watchmaker Stephen McDonnell, to whom busser refers as “a genius,” also incorporates a special amplitude regulating system that saves energy, even when both chronographs are running.

MB&F also won the Challenge prize, awarded to a watch priced under $3,500 (now selling for up to $14,000 on the secondary market), for its M.A.D.1 Red, conceived for MB&F friends and “tribe members.” It has a luminated lateral time display running along the case side and, on the dial side, an openworked triple-blade winding rotor that spins over a red background ring, with a touch of Super-Luminova to add drama.

Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II
Akrivia

The coveted Men’s Watch prize was picked up this year by celebrated independent watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi for his Akrivia brand Chronomètre Contemporain II, a manual-wound hour/minute watch with deadbeat seconds. The piece combines classic design and finishing and a “piano black” grand feu enamel dial with a modern design that reinterprets the traditional sector dial of the 1930s and ’40s. The seconds register is finished with a hand engraved gratté pattern covered with translucent grey enamel. As the follow up to the first version of the Chronomètre Contemporain, this one has a redesigned calibre with a balance that provides 60% more inertia than the previous edition, and a mainspring that delivers 40% more torque.

Bulgari picked up the Jewellery prize for its Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellery, a serpent motif secret watch with bracelet links designed as overlapping serpent scales. It is set with diamonds, turquoise and rubellite, and powered by one of the world’s smallest movements, a manual-wound in-house micro-calibre that is charmingly called the “Piccolissimo.”

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary

Bulgari also won the Audacity prize (awarded to a watch that demonstrates “a non-conformist, offbeat approach to watchmaking”) for its Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary, the 1.80mm-thick watch that, at the time of its release, held the world record as the world’s thinnest timepiece (it has now been eclipsed by Richard Mille’s RMUP-01 at 1.75 mm). It was entered in the Mechanical Exception category, a prize that was ultimately awarded to Ferdinand Berthoud for its Chronometre FB 2RSM.2-1, a tourbillon with fusee-and-chain transmission incorporating a stop-seconds mechanism and an independent deadbeat seconds. It was developed in collaboration with a young apprentice watchmaker who devoted his graduation project to it.

Hermès won two awards for its Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, including the Ladies’ Complication prize for the platinum 38mm version and the Men’s Complication prize for the steel 41mm version. It differs from traditional world timers on which time is simultaneously displayed for the various time zone cities. With the Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, it is the satellite subdial that travels from city to city, changing the face of the watch as it shows local time. The movement, three years in development, is based on the Hermès in-house calibre H1837, integrated with a special 122-component world time module created by Chronode.

Van Cleef & Arpels Fonatine Aux Oiseaux
Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels also picked up two awards: one in the brand new Mechanical Clock category for its exceptionally creative Fontaine Aux Oiseaux automaton (also a Robb Report “Best of the Best” 2022 winner), an amalgamation of the talents of automaton makers, jewellers, setters, lacquer specialists, enamelers and lapidaries; and the Innovation prize for its Heures Florales Cerisier (another Robb Report “Best of the Best” 2022 winner), in which the hours are revealed via the opening and closing of flower petals on the dial.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic
PArmigiani

Representing one of the best decisions of the year by the panel (and the GPHG Academy members, of which this writer is one, who judged the preliminary rounds) is the Ladies’ prize, which was awarded to Parmigiani Fleurier for its sleek, minimalist Tonda PF Automatic. It is a smaller (36mm) version of a great men’s design (which has come full circle to be considered a good thing), with an 18k rose gold case, knurled bezel, finely guilloched dial and, best of all, only a subtle application of diamonds serving as hour markers.

Each year, the GPHG awards a Special Jury prize not to a watch or a brand but to a personality, institution or initiative that has played a fundamental role in promoting high-quality watchmaking. This year’s recipient is Francois Junod, an automaton specialist who combines contemporary artistry with the traditions of automaton making.

Here is the full list of winners of the GPHG 2022:

Aiguille d’or Grand PrixMB&F Legacy Machine Sequential EvoMB&F Legacy Machine Sequential Evo

ChallengeMB&F M.A.D.1 RedMB&F M.A.D.1 Red

Petite AiguilleTrilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune EditionTrilobe Nuit Fantastique Dune Edition

DiversTudor Pelagos FXD

Men’sAkrivia Chronomètre Contemporain IIAkrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II

Ladies’ ComplicationHermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur 38 mmHermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur 38 mm

Artistic CraftsVoutilainin Ji-KuVoutilainin Ji-Ku

LadiesParmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF AutomaticParmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Automatic

Jewellry: Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewellry Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi High Jewelry

Men’s ComplicationHermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur 41 mmHermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur 41 mm

ChronographGrönefeld 1941 Grönograaf TantalumGrönefeld 1941 Grönograaf Tantalum

TourbillonH. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon SkeletonH. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

Calendar and AstronomyKrayon AnywhereKrayon Anywhere

Mechanical Clock: Van Cleef & Arpels Fontain Aux Oiseaux AuomatonVan Cleef & Arpels Fontain Aux Oiseaux Auomaton

IconicTAG Heuer Monaco X GulfTAG Heuer Monaco X Gulf

Mechanical ExceptionFerdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1

Chronometry: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon

AudacityBulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary

InnovationVan Cleef & Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

Van Cleef & Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier

Horological RevelationSylvain Pinaud Origine

Sylvain Pinaud Origine

Special Jury PrizeFrancois Junod

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Show Stopping Fun

Robb Report Australia and New Zealand teamed up with Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance in late February to celebrate a weekend of fine motor cars on Cockatoo Island.

By Robb Report Team 04/03/2025

Robb Report Australia & New Zealand and Citizen Kanebridge, the new private members’ club brought to you by this masthead’s publishers, offers exclusive access to magical experiences and unrivalled networking.

This year’s Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance on Cockatoo Island did not disappoint. Our invited guests—including speakers Gerard Doyle, General Manager ASX Refinitiv Charity Foundation; Ant Middleton, the British adventure and TV personality turned hydration-drink disruptor and owner R3SUP; and Lex Pedersen, CEO of automotive investment firm Chrome Temple—enjoyed unlimited access to the three-day event and an elegant sufficiently of Champagne, wine and whisky, as well as an exquisite catered lunch inside the Citizen Kanebridge Private Members’ Lounge. They enhanced their experience by VIP transport to and from the mainland via superyacht.

Courtesy of Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance

The British-born event, which also has iterations at Pebble Beach in California and Hampton Court Palace in England, once again teamed up with the world’s most prestigious marques (among them Aston Martin, Bentley, Brabus, Genesis, Lamborghini, McLaren, Rolls-Royce and Porsche), to display their latest supercars alongside the pageant of owner-driven vintage vehicles.

Courtesy of Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance

On Sunday, Robb Report’s Editor-in-Chief Horacio Silva treated guests to a special preview of the winners of this our annual Car of the Year awards, showcased in our coming March 2025 issue. Our lips are sealed.

Courtesy of Sydney Harbour Concours d’Elegance

To learn how to become a member of our exclusive new community, visit Citizen Kanebridge.

Thank you to the following sponsors: Whisky and Wealth, Jacob & Co, Wine Selectors, Mulpha, Jackson Teece, Young Henry’s and Resup.

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Patron’s New Ultra-Premium Tequila Is a Reposado Blend That Punches Way Above Its Age

Patron’s latest luxury tequila is a blend of ages.

By Jonah Flicker 13/03/2025

There are certain categories in the tequila world that indicate how long the spirit has been matured, so what happens when you combine a few of them together into one release? Patron is the latest brand to get in on this multiple-maturation blending action with the new high-end El Alto release, a combination of tequilas aged for different lengths of time.

In the whisky world, an age statement represents the minimum age of the liquid that’s in the bottle—in other words, a 10-year-old scotch may have liquid much older than that in the blend, but 10 years represents the minimum age. When it comes to tequila, there are also rules in regards to how it has to be labelled based on maturation, and like whisky that depends on the youngest liquid in the blend. The core of El Alto is an extra anejo tequila (the exact proportion isn’t revealed), meaning it was aged for a minimum of three years. But master distiller David Rodriguez decided to blend some anejo (aged one to three years) and reposado (two months to one year) tequila into the mix as well, making this an expression that is defined as reposado instead of extra anejo even though it has some ultra-aged liquid in the blend.

According to the brand, 11 different types of barrels were used to mature the tequila in El Alto, with the majority being hybrid barrels consisting of American oak bodies and French oak heads—each type of wood is thought to impart different flavours into the spirit. “The tequilas that harmoniously come together in Patron El Alto are a result of selecting the finest 100 percent Weber blue agave in the highest parts of Jalisco, Mexico, a territory known for producing the sweetest agaves,” said Rodriguez in a statement. “We took four years to focus on only the best of the best and perfect the bold, sweet flavors of this expression the right way: naturally.”

This type of multi-aged tequila seems to be part of a growing trend, with a few other brands releasing similar high-end expressions including Cincoro and Volcan de Mi Tierra. Perhaps it’s a way of stretching supplies or a tactic to get consumers to dip their toes (or tongues, preferably) into another luxe tequila, a category that is growing every year.

This month Australians are getting an exclusive taste of the El Alto as this formerly USA-exclusive release is launching here with The Bacardi Group. You can find El Alto in selected hospitality venues and at Barrel & Batch for $298 as these chic spots that represent the “pinnacle of celebrating momentous occasions,” according to the brand.

 

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Neutral, Not Boring: How to Wear This Season’s Most Stylish New Menswear

The soft tones of California’s Joshua Tree provide a perfect backdrop for the season’s refined yet relaxed vibe.

By Naomi Rougeau And Alex Badia 04/03/2025

Amid spring 2025’s myriad trends, there was one connecting element: colour. From Alessandro Sartori’s rusty hues at Zegna to Loro Piana’s subdued neutrals, the palette was more sun-bleached than saturated, and the muted tones of California’s Joshua Tree provide a perfect backdrop for the season’s refined yet relaxed vibe.

Stylists Naomi Rougeau and Alex Badia, teamed up with photographer Brad Torchia to create these casual looks that turn a bold statement into a confident whisper.

Brad Torchia

Berluti leather jacket, $14,067; L.B.M. 1911 merino crewneck, $450; Dolce & Gabbana linen trousers, $1,921; Zenith 37 mm Chronomaster Revival in steel, $13,987.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Umit Benan silk jacket, silk shirt, and linen trousers, all prices upon request; Dolce & Gabbana suede loafers, $1600; Girard-Perregaux 38 mm Laureato Sage Green in steel, $23,954.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Brunello Cucinelli linen shirt, $1500; Loro Piana linen trousers, $908; Zenith 37 mm Chronomaster Revival in steel, $13,987.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Anderson & Sheppard cotton jacket, $4,421; Gabriela Hearst cashmere turtleneck, $1,430; Louis Vuitton cotton jeans, $2n138; Tod’s suede sneakers, $1438.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Canali wool, silk, and linen tweed blazer, $4,011; Thom Sweeney silk shirt, $876; Paul Smith mohair trousers, $908; Church’s patent-leather loafers, $1,768; Parmigiani Fleurier 40 mm Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena in steel and platinum, $40,675.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Paul Smith cotton trench, $3528; Ferragamo cashmere sweater, $1,752, and cotton trousers, $4389; Dolce & Gabbana suede loafers, $1599.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Hermès denim shirt, $1,647, and belted cotton chinos, $1,366.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Loro Piana cotton cardigan, $4,381, and linen shirt, $1,768; Todd Snyder linen trousers, $639; Zegna Triple Stitch leather sneakers, $1,768; Morgenthal Frederics sunglasses, $2,564; Berluti silk scarf, $1,221; Parmigiani Fleurier 40 mm Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena in steel and platinum, $40,675.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Thom Sweeney cashmere and merino sweater, $956; Brunello Cucinelli linen shorts, $1045; Manolo Blahnik raffia and leather loafers, $1,438.; Leisure Society sunglasses, $1905; Zenith 37 mm Chronomaster Revival in steel, $13,987.

Photo: Brad Torchia

Kiton jean jacket, $6061; Officine Générale cashmere sweater, $932; Brioni wool trousers, $1,768; Ralph Lauren Purple Label leather belt, $562; Morgenthal Frederics sunglasses, $52081; Zenith 37 mm Chronomaster Revival in steel, $13,987

 

 

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This New York Jewellery Gallery Is Offering up a Treasure Trove of Vintage Watches

The Mahnaz Collection’s first formal collection of timepieces will include rare finds with fascinating histories

By Paige Reddinger 04/03/2025

There was a period when Mahnaz Ispahani Bartos found it hard to hold on to a watch. The prominent collector and dealer often would post pictures on social media of the uncommon, sculptural timepieces she purchased for herself. But every time, clients of her eponymous jewellery gallery—New York City’s Mahnaz Collection—would hound her into selling them.

“They found those photographs, and they are just diligent in bothering me,” she says with a laugh, adding that some would simply persist until she changed her mind about letting them go.

In response to that demand, this month her Madison Avenue space will begin offering its first formal collection of unique watches, curated with the same rigor and studious eye Ispahani Bartos has applied to sourcing rare jewellery. (Her specialty is the hard-to-find fare made by artists, designers, goldsmiths, and architects.) One coveted example is a gold-and-diamond pendant watch handmade by the late Italian-born avant-garde designer Andrew Grima, whose work was beloved by the British royal family. This example from his historic collaboration with Omega was made in the 1970s. Lesser known but no less noteworthy is the Spanish designer Augustin Julia-Plana, who created a gold-and-jadeite watch for his brand Schlegel & Plana, also in the ’70s. “He was a great jeweller and watch designer,” says Ispahani Bartos of Julia-Plana, who penned striking and visually creative work for everyone from Chopard to Tiffany. “He specialised in really unusual stones,” she adds, noting that he died far too young at age 41.

An 18-carat gold and jadeite watch designed by Augustin Julia-Plana, circa 1970.
Photographed by Janelle Jones/Styled by Stephanie Yeh

Ispahani Bartos knows something about legacy. Born in Bangladesh—when it was still called East Pakistan—she grew up in a culture steeped in traditions of wearing and appreciating jewellery. She recalls her grandmother giving her earrings made from yellow gold, turquoise, diamonds, and Burmese rubies at age 7. (Too young to wear them, she put them on her dolls’ ears for safekeeping. Both were lost when her family fled the violence of the country’s 1971 revolution; the ship carrying their belongings, she says, was sunk by an enemy carrier.)

When she was a teenager, her mother gifted her one of Omega’s Grima-designed watches, which she still owns. That early introduction to rare design influenced her own collecting journey, which turned into her full-time job when she opened her gallery in 2013.

“I didn’t focus on watches then, but increasingly, where I have an important jewellery collection where the jeweller also made watches, I started to feel like, ‘How can I not have that person’s watches?’ ” she says.
From left: Omega and Andrew Grima Winter Sunset pendant watch in 18-karat yellow gold, smokey quartz, and citrine crystal with Swiss manual-wind movement, circa 1968; Piaget bracelet watch in 18-karat yellow gold and tiger’s eye with Swiss manual-wind movement, circa 1970.
Photographed by Janelle Jones/Styled by Stephanie Yeh

That comprehensive approach befits Ispahani Bartos’s previous career and intellectual curiosity. After earning a Ph.D. in international relations, she served as a foreign- and security-policy expert for an array of global organisations, including the Ford Foundation and the Council on Foreign Relations.

She still employs the deep preparation she once used in the aid of diplomacy, researching every piece that comes into her hands, creating extensive and beautiful catalogs for the collections, and crafting museum-style exhibitions to present them to collectors. And this work, she says, takes ages. She’ll soon debut an Italian collection whose catalog she has been researching and preparing for nearly a decade, and her vault currently houses some Ettore Sottsass–designed watches she has been holding back for the right moment. “We tend to build collections all the time, collections we don’t show for years,” she says. Which means you never know what pieces might be hiding in the Mahnaz Collection—or the yet-to-be-told stories that may accompany them.
At top from far left: Omega De Ville Emerald bracelet watch designed by Andrew Grima in sterling silver with a tropical dial; Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse in 18-karat gold; Jaeger-LeCoultre Mystery watch in 18-carat gold and diamonds; Cazzaniga watch in 18-carat gold, diamonds, and sapphires with movement by Piaget; Gilbert Albert watch in platinum, 18-carat gold, and diamonds with movement by Omega. The pieces, made between the 1950s and ’70s, all have Swiss-made manual-wind movements. 

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Penfolds Saves Best For Last with Show-Stopping Release with Creative Partner NIGO

Penfolds has just dropped their limited-edition 65F by NIGO Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz, a mouthwatering wine you need to nab now.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 28/02/2025

Though Penfolds holds many wonderful wines in its star-studded suite, their latest collaboration with NIGO is earmarked as a sure-fire collector’s item.

Retailing for $395 a bottle, the Penfolds 65F by NIGO is expected to sit snugly alongside the likes of Grange and Bin 389 as a standout single-vintage wine connoisseurs will vie for in years to come.

This prize wine isn’t just delicious and highly collectible, it looks the part. It features branding by artistic director and creative visionary NIGO, the founder of cult streetwear brands A Bathing Ape and Human Made, a pal of Pharrell Williams and current creative director of French fashion house Kenzo. For the box and packaging NIGO was inspired by the towering 65-foot chimney that prevails over Penfolds South Australian home, Magill Estate.

Penfolds archival material served as NIGO’s inspiration for the inclusions within the gift box and on the wine label. A chalkboard wine tag with coinciding chalk pencil pays homage to the chalk boards used in the original working winery at Penfolds Magill Estate and allows the opportunity for personalisation of the wine if used as a gift. The bottle label features a design which takes inspiration from the pressed bottle labels from the 1930-50s, and the tissue paper wrapping the bottle has been adapted from the Penfolds logo style used in the early 20th century. NIGO’s signature playful design style is emphasised with a chimney smoke wine stopper.

Inside it’s a classic embodiment of the way South Australian winemakers blend cabernet sauvignon with shiraz to stunning effect.

As a result this wine has a mouth-watering palate with plenty of fine grain tannins and silky mouth feel. A nose enriched with spicy nutmeg, cardamom and cassis is layered over blueberry compote and lush fig on a palate. There’s lots of blueberry soufflé, gamey tones and just a hint of fennel seed, with more complexity to come as the years fly by.

All the base wines were sourced from grapes grown in South Australia’s top wine regions of Coonawarra, Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Clare Valley. And while the 65F by NIGO Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz is being released now, it will continue to reward cellaring for years to come.

Penfolds first announced NIGO as its Creative Partner in June 2023, with the global release of One by Penfolds. This was closely followed by the launch of Grange by NIGO (the first takeover of Penfolds flagship red wine) in February 2024, followed by Holiday Designed by NIGO in October 2024.A classic for the ages.

Penfolds 65F by NIGO Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2021 is available globally from Thursday 27 February 2025 (RRP AUD$395.00 for 750ml). Available via Penfolds.com, at select Dan Murphy’s stores nationally and select independent retailers.

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