From The Royal Oak To The King Midas, 10 Of Gérald Genta’s Most Iconic Designs

Inarguably one of the greatest—and most prolific—watch designers of all time, Gérald Genta’s creations have stood the test of time.

By Tanisha Angel 06/07/2023

Those with even a passing interest in horology will have seen a Gérald Genta design. The legendary artist and designer is responsible for some of the world’s most covetable timepieces—counting the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus amongst his oeuvre—and is widely credited with saving the Swiss watch industry from the Quartz Crisis of the 1970s.

However, Genta’s body of work extends far beyond the almost unattainable duo of steel sports watches that dominate horological conversations, with the prolific designer having been responsible for a veritable profusion of timepiece designs. According to the Gerald Genta Heritage Association, the Swiss-Italian watchmaker designed over 100,000 watches over the span of his career.

With an unmatched ability to imbue horological designs with a sense of aestheticism, several of Genta’s designs have stood the test of time. A testament to his enduring style is the new IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40; released almost fifty years after Genta’s first Ingenieur SL, it combines the aesthetic codes of the original with contemporary ergonomics. And now, the Gérald Genta brand will be revived under LVMH, with Genta’s wife Evelyne granting the luxury conglomerate access to her late husband’s archives, which contain hundreds of designs that were never produced.

Herewith, the most iconic Gérald Genta designs of all time — plus, some underrated timepieces that deserve a look in.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972)

A seminal timepiece, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak heralded the rise of the luxury steel sports watch category. In the early 1970s, Swiss watch manufacture Audemars Piguet commissioned Genta to design a luxury sports watch — primarily as a last-ditch attempt to turn the tide around following a downtrend in sales due to inexpensive quartz movements being exported from Japan. Characterised by its unconventional screwed-down geometric bezel (said to be inspired by the shape of a diver’s helmet), integrated bracelet, and steel—for the price of gold—construction, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was a sleeper hit.

While its unprecedentedly high price and unusual aesthetics weren’t immediately well-received upon release in 1972, Audemars Piguet leaned into its unconventional price point in its marketing gaff and the Royal Oak quickly became a phenomenon.

Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976)

Credit: Gerald Genta Heritage

Not only did Genta design the timepiece that transformed perceptions of steel, he also conceived its greatest competitor. A commission by Patek Philippe in 1976 led to the creation of the Nautilus. Like the Royal Oak, the Nautilus derives inspiration from the nautical world—this time from the portholes of transatlantic ships—and is named after Captain Nemo’s submarine in Jules Verne’s novel 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. According to the Gérald Genta Heritage Association, Genta sketched the Nautilus in five minutes on a paper napkin in a restaurant.

Defined by its soft-angled bezel, integrated bracelet, and horizontal ribbed dial, the timepiece remained in production for 30 years and is considered one of the most desirable watches of all time to this day.

IWC Ingenieur SL (1976)

Credit: Gerald Genta Heritage

During the same year the Nautilus was released, Gérald Genta was tasked with refreshing the IWC Ingenieur, which first debuted in 1955. Initially taking on a dressier aesthetic, Genta’s revamped Ingenieur SL saw the timepiece forgo its classic round case and tapered lugs for a sporty rounded tonneau steel case with a five-screw bezel and an integrated profile; a design signature of the Swiss-Italian watchmaker.

Reflective of increased interest in Gérald Genta’s designs of late, IWC introduced the 2023 Ingenieur Automatic 40, which adapts the bold aesthetic codes of the Ingenieur SL for a contemporary audience.

Universal Geneve Polerouter (1954)

Credit: Worn & Wound

The first major design in what would become a heady body of work, Genta designed the Universal Geneve Polerouter in 1954 at the age of 23. Universal Geneva approached Genta to design a timepiece to commemorate the historic flight from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, with the first watches given to the cabin crew of the Scandinavian Airlines Systems (SAS) upon landing in LAX. The elegant multi-textured dial and streamlined case of the Universal Geneve Polerouter belie its functionality, with the timepiece equipped with anti-magnetic properties and a chapter ring designed for enhanced legibility in dark conditions.

Omega Constellation (1954)

Initially introduced in the early 1950s, the Omega Constellation was conceived as a dress watch. Stalling sales off the flagship model prompted the luxury Swiss manufacture to commission Genta to devise a fresh take on the line. Genta rid the Constellation of its pie-pan dial and tapered lugs, introducing a rounded C-case in its place; defined by integrated lugs and a tonneau shape, the design was emblematic of the space-age movement that reigned supreme at the time. The redesign also introduced baton indices and stick hands. The Constellation has since been iterated to the point where Genta’s design language is virtually indistinguishable, with the timepiece considered a rarity among the horological community.

Bulgari Bulgari (1977)

Simple yet impactful, the Bulgari Bulgari—first released in 1977—is modelled after an ancient Roman coin on which the effigy of the emperor was encircled by engraved inscriptions. Initially dubbed the ‘Bulgari Roma’ and designed solely for the Italian luxury fashion house’s Rome-based atelier, the name was changed after Bulgari noted its positive reception worldwide. The cylindrical case shape and understated lugs were also influenced by the columns of ancient Roman temples, imbuing the timepiece with a nostalgic feel. Over the past 36 years, the fundamentals of the Bulgari Bulgari have been left relatively unchanged, save for the transition from quartz to mechanical movements and the introduction of larger case sizes to suit contemporary tastes.

Pasha de Cartier (1985)

In the early 1930s, the Pasha of Marrakesh tasked Louis Cartier with creating a gold timepiece equipped with a level of water resistance uncommon to the time. The resultant solution was a watch with a comparatively large case size with a crown cover and a metal grid to protect the dial. Over fifty years later, the French luxury goods house enlisted Genta to create a new timepiece with a sporty (yet still elegant) aesthetic. Standing out from the plethora of rectangles, squares, and ovals in Cartier’s then-current lineup, the Pasha stood out for its large (for the time) 38mm case, Vendôme lugs, the screw-down crown cap complete with cabochon and a retaining chain, and the oversized 3, 6, 9, and 12 numerals on the dial.

Bulgari Octo (2000s)

The Bulgari Octo was released shortly after the Italian jeweller and watchmaker acquired the Gérald Genta brand in 2000. While there’s some contention surrounding whether Genta actually designed the Octo himself, his unmistakable design language is present in the timepiece’s integrated bracelet and the geometric case which juxtaposes rectilinear forms with curvilinear ones by positioning a round bezel on an eight-sided case.

Seiko Credor Locomotive (1979)

While the hexagonal bezel often draws comparisons to Genta’s most famous timepiece, the Seiko Credor Locomotive—designed in 1979—has its origins in locomotives rather than nautics. The angular bezel and integrated bracelet closely resemble that of the Royal Oak, however the Seiko Credor Locomotive subtly sets itself apart through a new shape for the intermediary links and the nature-inspired pattern on the dial.

Rolex King Midas (1964)

Perhaps the most unconventional of Genta’s creations, the Rolex King Midas sees the Swiss-Italian artist apply geometric forms in a new way. Steering away from his signature sporty aesthetic, the asymmetric case of the Rolex King Midas was inspired by the silhouette of a Greek temple. A solid gold timepiece—hence the name—the King Midas was one of the heaviest watches on the market, despite its modest 27mm proportions.

 

ADVERTISE WITH US

Subscribe to the Newsletter

Stay Connected

You may also like.

Omega Just Unveiled 9 Watches in Its New Constellation Observatory Collection

The line-up shows up a bevy of metals and colours, too, as well as two new calibres.

By Nicole Hoey 31/03/2026

Omega’s latest watch is in a universe of its own.

The Swiss watchmaker just unveiled its new Constellation Observatory Collection today, the next step in its Constellation lineage and the first two-hand hour and minute timepieces to ever earn Master Chronometer certification. And if you were paying attention to any of the dazzling watches spotted at the Oscars this year, you would’ve caught a glimpse of the new line already: Sinners star Delroy Lindo rocked one of the models on the Academy Awards red carpet, giving us a pre-release preview of the collection.

Developed at Omega’s new Laboratoire de Précision (its chronometer testing lab open to all brands), the collection houses a set of nine 39.4 mm watches. The watches underwent 25 days of scrutiny there, analysed via a new acoustic testing method that recorded every sound emitted from the timepiece to track irregularities, temperature sensitivities, and more in the name of all things precision. (Details such as water resistance and power reserve are also thoroughly examined.) This meticulous process is all in the name of snagging that Master Chronometer label, meaning that the timepiece is highly accurate and surpasses the threshold for ultra-high performance. The Constellation Observatory Collection has now changed the game, though, thanks to its lack of a seconds hand.

A watch from the Constellation Observatory Collection, with the Observatory dome on display. Omega

“Until now, precision certification has required a seconds hand,” Raynald Aeschlimann, president and CEO of OMEGA, said in a press statement. “The development of a new acoustic testing methodology has made that requirement obsolete. It is this breakthrough that has enabled us to present the Constellation Observatory, the first two-hand watch to achieve Master Chronometer certification.”

In addition to notching its place in history, the collection also debuted a new pair of movements: the Calibre 8915 and the Calibre 8914, each perched on a skeletonised rotor base. The former’s Grand Luxe iteration will appear on the 950 Platinum-Gold model in the collection, which offers up that base in 18-karat Sedna Gold alongside a Constellation medallion in 18-karat white gold with an Observatory dome done in white opal enamel surrounded by stars. The second Calibre 8915, the Luxe, will find its home on the other precious-metal models in the line, either made with the brand’s 18-karat Sedna, Moonshine, or Canopus gold seen across the case, the hand-guilloché dial, and, of course, the movement itself. (Lindo chose to rock the Moonshine Gold on Moonshine Gold iteration, priced at approximately $86,000, for Sinners‘s big night at the Oscars.) As for the Calibre 8914, it can be found in the collection’s four steel models.

 

Omega Constellation Observatory Collection
A look at a gold case-back from the collection. Omega

Each model is a callback to myriad design features on past Omega models. That two-hand dial, for one, comes from the 1948 Centenary (the brand’s first chronometer-certified automatic wristwatch), while the pie-pan dial (seen in various blue, green, and golden hues throughout the line) and that Constellation medallion caseback both appear on watches from 1952. The star adorning the space above 6 o’clock also harks back to 1950s timepieces from Omega. And to finish off the look, you can opt for alligator straps in a variety of colours, or perhaps a gold iteration to match the precious-metal models; the brick-like pattern on the 18-karat Moonshine bracelet was also inspired by Omega watches from the ’50s.

We’ll have to keep our eyes peeled for any other Constellation Observatory timepieces (or any other unreleased models from the brand) at the rest of the star-studded events headed our way this year—perhaps the Met Gala?

Stay Connected

Inside Loro Piana’s First Sydney Boutique

A first Australian address brings the Italian house’s textile-led approach to retail full circle.

By Horacio Silva 26/03/2026

On the fourth floor of Westfield Sydney, near the Castlereagh and Market Street entrance—in the space formerly occupied by Chanel—Loro Piana has opened its first Australian boutique. It is a significant address change for that corner of the mall, and a meaningful one for the Italian house, which has sourced Australian merino wool for decades but until now had no retail presence here.

The facade is understated—creamy, tactile, more about texture than theatre. Inside, the store unfolds across a single, expansive level divided into distinct men’s and women’s wings. The separation is clear without being heavy-handed: womenswear leads from soft accessories and leather goods into ready-to-wear, while menswear occupies its own assured territory, with tailoring and outerwear given proper breathing room. Footwear (supple loafers, luxurious slides, pared-back sneakers) is particularly strong, and the sunglasses are a quiet standout: mineral-toned frames with a disciplined elegance that feels entirely of the house.

That same restraint carries into the interiors, where the surfaces do much of the talking. Walls are wrapped in the company’s own linen and cashmere; carpets are custom, dense underfoot, softening the acoustics and the pace. Oak and carabottino wood add warmth without fuss; marble accents introduce a cool counterpoint. The effect is a composed space calibrated around material, proportion and restraint.

The Spring 2026 collection now in store underscores that sensibility. Silhouettes are elongated and fluid; cashmere, silk and featherweight merino move in sandy neutrals, creams and muddied earth tones, with flashes of marigold and pale turquoise breaking the calm. Tailoring is softly structured and projects confidence without aggression. Leather goods arrive in buttery skins that feel almost pre-lived, as though time has already worked its magic.

What distinguishes Loro Piana, particularly in a market that has grown noisier by the season, is its refusal to perform luxury in an obvious register. There are no oversized insignias telegraphing allegiance. Instead, the status is encoded in fibre count, in hand-feel, in how a coat hangs from the shoulder. It assumes the wearer knows and, crucially, does not need to announce it.

Sydney’s luxury landscape has matured in recent years; global houses no longer test the waters but commit to them. Yet Loro Piana’s arrival feels different. It is not trend-driven expansion but material logic. For a country whose sheep stations have long contributed to the house’s fabric story, this boutique reads almost as a thank-you note written in cashmere.

 

Photography: Courtesy of Loro Piana.

 

 

Stay Connected

This Stylish, Water-Resistant Dopp Kit Might Be the Last One You Ever Buy

Patricks’s limited-edition wash bag is designed to keep liquids in and out, so it can come along wherever your travels take you.

By Justin Fenner 11/03/2026

If all you’re going to do is look at it, a leather Dopp kit from a fashion house is a fine choice. But if you take travelling seriously—and do it often, for business, pleasure, or both—such a bag will inevitably end up blemished with droplets of water or stained by errant flecks of toothpaste. Get stuck with a cavalier team of baggage handlers, and it can even get soaked in your favourite fragrance or anti-ageing serum.

But Patricks, the high-performance Australian grooming brand stocked in Harrods and Bergdorf Goodman, has a solution. Its limited-edition bathroom bag, called BB1, is purpose-built to protect everything inside and out. Conceived by industrial designer George Cunningham with brand founder Patrick Kidd, the cuboid design is executed in a water-resistant recycled nylon you can rinse clean. It’s lined with a thin layer of shock-absorbing foam to safeguard your products, but if a bottle somehow gets cracked in transit, the two-way water-resistant zippers and sealed seams (which keep liquids from seeping in or out) ensure that whatever leaks won’t ruin your cashmere. Inside, two dual-sided zippered compartments are ideally sized to fit toothbrushes, razors, and other small essentials.

And though its clean lines and rugged construction make it undeniably masculine, its greatest feature is borrowed from women’s makeup bags. Like the best of these, BB1 unzips to lie flat, giving you unobstructed access to everything inside. Well, you and the 999 other gentlemen who move fast enough to snag one. $289

Courtesy of Patricks

1. Hanging Loop 

The G-hook system isn’t just a stylish handle: You can also use it to hang the bag from a hook or secure it to your carry-on.

2. Two-Way Zipper

The closures are water-resistant in both directions, meaning liquids won’t get in or out.

3. Fold-flat Construction

BB1 opens to 180 degrees, letting you scan its 4.2-litre capacity at a quick glance.

4. Technical-Fabric Shell

The durable recycled-nylon is easy to maintain and woven to survive splashes and leaks from your go-to products.

Stay Connected

You Can Now Place Bets on the Future Prices of Rolex Models

And which models will get discontinued next, thanks to a new collaboration between Kalshi and Bezel.

By Nicole Hoey 11/03/2026

You can bet on pretty much anything these days, from when Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce will get married to who will be the next James Bond—and now that includes the Rollies on your wrist, or on your wishlist.

Prediction market platform Kalshi, regulated in the U.S., and luxe watch marketplace Bezel have teamed up on a new platform called Watch Futures that allows users to splash down cash on where they think the prices of a particular luxe timepiece are going, whether that’s a Rolex Submariner or a coveted Patek Philippe, Time & Tide reported.

You can also place a wager on which models might be discontinued, as well as any future launches from the top watchmakers on the new platform; with Watches and Wonders coming up, it’s certainly a well-timed launch that could see a lot of activity as a slew of new releases are announced at the event.

Watch Futures is all based on Beztimate, Bezel’s system (once used only internally) to help it accurately calculate the market price of a timepiece. It draws data from real-time transactions, live bids, verified sales, and other market offers to spawn its own series of independent valuation models to establish a watch’s value. From there, it’s up to bettors to place their wagers, and then the platform will showcase any price fluctuations or other updates as time goes on.

This new platform could have some pretty large implications for the watch industry.  As any horological savant would know, the internet and collectors alike are constantly chattering about which models are on the way out or when a certain timepiece of the moment’s time in the limelight will fade, of course, having a large impact on the prices of said model. And now, a Watch Futures user can have a direct stake in where a model is headed—and if they own said timepiece, it can be a protection from dwindling values on the marketplace, say, if a user places a bet on their model losing value and that actually comes to fruition.

To see Watch Futures in real time (and scope out how some pieces in your collection are faring), you can use the Kalshi app or its website.

Stay Connected

Mauve on Up

Brisbane boutique stay Miss Midgley’s offers a viscerally human experience—especially if you dig pink.

By Horacio Silva 17/12/2025

On a sun-bleached corner of Brisbane’s New Farm, where the scent of frangipani mingles with the clink of coffee cups, stands a building that has lived more lives than most people. Once a premier’s residence, an orphanage, a hospital and a private school, the 160-year-old stone structure now finds itself reborn as Miss Midgley’s—a boutique stay that teaches a masterclass in how to make heritage feel modern.

Designed and run by architect-mother-daughter duo Lisa and Isabella White, Miss Midgley’s captures the cultural confidence of a city in bloom. Nowhere is that new confidence more visible than along James Street—the leafy, slow-burn heart of the city’s fashion and dining scene—where Miss Midgley’s sits quietly at the edge, its shell-pink façade glowing in the subtropical light.

Built of Brisbane’s rare volcanic tuff, the building’s soft mauves and pinks are more than aesthetic; they are its identity. Locals still remember its 1950s incarnation as the Pink Flats, and the Whites have honoured that legacy with a contemporary blush-toned exterior, chosen to harmonise with the stone’s peachy undertones. Inside, those hues continue in dusty terracottas, russets and the faint shimmer of brass tapware. “Design can’t afford to be for the sake of fashion,” Isabella White has said. “It has to respond to what’s in front of you.”

That sentiment is tangible in every corner. Five apartments, each with their own idiosyncratic floor plan, occupy the building. Ceilings bloom with heritage plasterwork, 19th-century wallpaper fragments have been preserved in the kitchens, and tiny hand-painted notes left by the architects point out original quirks: a misaligned beam here, a hidden archway there. It’s a kind of adult treasure hunt for design lovers, where discovery feels personal and unforced.

Even the picket fence, a heritage requirement, has been reimagined in corten steel—a sly nod to regulation turned into sculpture. It’s this blend of reverence and rebellion that gives Miss Midgley’s its edge: heritage without starch, nostalgia without sentimentality.

True to Brisbane’s easy elegance, luxury here is measured not in marble or minibar but in proportion, privacy, and personality. Each apartment—from the Drawing Room and the Assembly Hall to the Principal’s Office—is a self-contained sanctuary with its own kitchen, large bathroom and outdoor space. The ground-floor units open onto leafy courtyards and welcome small dogs; upstairs, the larger suites spill onto verandahs shaded by jacarandas.

At the heart of the property lies a solar-heated pool hemmed with tropical greenery and fringed umbrellas—more mid-century Palm Springs than colonial Brisbane. Around it, guests share a petite laundry, a communal library and that rarest of urban luxuries: a car park per apartment. The atmosphere is quietly collegiate—a handful of travellers who might nod to each other on the stairs but otherwise inhabit their own creative bubbles.

The hotel’s namesake, Annie Midgley, lends the project both its name and its spirit. An ambidextrous artist and teacher, she famously instructed two students at once, writing with both hands simultaneously—a fitting metaphor for the dual vision the Whites bring to the building: one hand rooted in history, the other sketching toward the future. “Not famous, yet known,” goes the property’s understated tagline—and indeed, Miss Midgley’s has quietly become that most desirable of addresses: the one whispered about by people who know.

Sustainability isn’t an accessory here; it’s structural. The adaptive reuse of the heritage building is its boldest environmental act. Solar panels power the property; an electric heat pump warms the pool; recycled decking and tiles frame the courtyard. The metre-thick tuff walls regulate temperature naturally, and the amenities follow suit—refillable bath products, biodegradable pods, Seljak blankets spun from textile off-cuts, and compendiums wrapped in Australian-made kangaroo leather. It’s slow luxury in the truest sense.

In a world of carbon-copy hotels, Miss Midgley’s feels deeply human—a place where history isn’t curated behind glass but lives in the warmth of stone and the flicker of afternoon light. The lesson it offers is simple and resonant: that the most elegant modernity often comes not from reinvention, but from listening to what’s already there.

 

 Miss Midgley’s

Stay Connected