Audemars Piguet’s Latest Watch Revives An Archival Style Made For A 16th-Century Pope

The new Code 11.59 Star Wheel pairs a classically inspired complication with a contemporary look and feel.

By Oren Hartov 01/12/2022

Imagine, if you will, that it’s the mid-17th century… and you’re the Pope. In other words: you’re a baller, and you can do whatever the heck you please.

Such was the case roughly 400 years ago when Pope Alexander VII was suffering from insomnia—insomnia, he posited, that was made worse due to the ticking of a clock. Putting in a special request to the Campani brothers—clockmakers based in Rome—he ordered a “night clock” that wouldn’t disturb his precious slumber. The brothers delivered a special timepiece on which the time was read not conventionally via a dial with hours around the periphery, but along a semi-circular axis with an aperture that indicated the quarter-hours. This clock, which was lit from within, was a precursor to the “wandering hours” complication that is just now finding its way back into the watch-buying public’s consciousness.

Said complication made its way, by the end of the 17th century, into pocket watches; by then, these smaller timepieces included fully graduated minute scales, allowing for more accurate timekeeping. Sophisticated and requiring great skill to manufacture, they were sometimes offered as gifts to important persons, dignitaries, and visitors. In the 19th century, the design of these timepieces changed slightly, with a 180-degree aperture giving way to one measuring 120 degrees, and the quarter-hour measurement and hour window disappearing. Eventually, a 360-degree wandering hours complication appeared, though these were eventually eclipsed in popularity by the “jump hour” complication that came to the fore during the Art Deco period in the 1920s.

An Audemars Piguet Star Wheel watch from 1991.
Audemars Piguet

Flipping through a copy of the Journal Suisse d’Horlogerie in 1989, an Audemars Piguet watchmaker discovered the wandering hours complication for himself—and just in time, too: The dawning of the 1990s coincided with a resurgence in mechanical watchmaking following on the heels of the dreaded Quartz Crisis, in which hundreds of watchmakers and entire firms were put out of business. Piquing the interest of AP’s management, the maison began development of a new watch that included the wandering hours complication, which it released in 1991 after 18 months of development. This watch, the reference 25720, was named the Star Wheel, a reference to the three “stars” supporting the hour discs that revolve around the dial.

Roughly 30 “Star Wheel” timepieces were produced by the maison between 1991 and 2003. Housed within various collections, they ran the gamut aesthetically between the classical and the avant garde, but each featured an arc-shaped time aperture and wandering hours system. Beloved by collectors, the Star Wheel disappeared from the AP catalog nearly 20 years ago.

Until now.

(Cue thunder and ominous yet exciting theme music.)

The New Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Star Wheel
Audemars Piguet

What better way to introduce this beloved complication—and AP’s unique take on it—than within the (still relatively new) Code 11.59 collection? Though the Royal Oak remains the shining, iconic emblem of AP in the consciousness of many a watch enthusiast, it’s the Code 11.59 that has done the most to move the storied brand forward, to help it shed some of the weight of Genta’s famed creation and shift the focus into the future. Love it or hate it, Code 11.59 was a risk worth taking when many brands were — and are still — casting their collective mind’s eye firmly on the past, reissuing vintage models seemingly ad infinitum in an effort to capitalise on what was already once successful, and what is easy.

The new Star Wheel — reference 15212NB.OO.A002KB.01, for those keeping track — not only gives the 17th-century complication a fresh lease on life, but does so in a contemporary, thoroughly cool way, pairing it with a gorgeous aventurine dial housed in a white gold Code 11.59 case. Measuring 41mm in diameter, the watch’s sophisticated architecture includes a black ceramic mid-case and crown, plus hand-finished polished and satin-finished edges and bevels that put the savoir faire of the manufacture on full view. A double-curved sapphire crystal provides subtle magnification of the dial below, while an exhibition caseback provides a view of the movement — complete with a 22-carat pink gold oscillating weight—beating within. But more on that in a moment.

The movement of Audemars Piguet’s new Star Wheel watch.
Diode SA – Denis Hayoun

The dial is, of course, the true star of the show, here: Framed by a fully graduated, black outer second track, a larger 60-minute track is displayed in a 120-degree arc between 10 and 2 o’clock. Behind this is an incredible, blue aventurine dial atop which sit three black hour discs, each of which is overlaid with four white numbers in highly legible white printing. Made of aluminum subjected to PVD treatment, each is given a sandblasted opaline finish. As they rotate around the appropriate hour moves to the four and indicates the passing minutes on the 120-degree minute track—a sophisticated, playful system whose origins extend back 400 years.

The black and white touches—contrasted with the sparkling blue of the aventurine dial—are thoughtfully accented by the ceramic crown and mid-case, as well as a textured black rubber-coated strap with a pin buckle engraved with the Audemars Piguet logo. Powering the Star wheel is the automatic Calibre 4310. Derived from the Calibre 4309, it adds a wandering hours module to a highly accurate time-only movement and includes an impressive set of specs, including 70 hours of power reserve, 32 jewels, a frequency of 4 Hz, and 261 parts.

At $85,000, the Star Wheel is priced roughly in concert with the Code 11.59 Self-Winding Chronograph in various precious metals, and well under the various tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater models. Like those other complications, it doesn’t seek to reinvent the (Star) wheel—rather it takes a charming, whimsical mode of timekeeping and pairs it to a housing whose design is completely of the moment. A breath of fresh air in a never-ending flurry of vintage reissues, it’s a welcome addition to what is quickly becoming one of the most contemporary-feeling collections in modern watchmaking.

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The Boldest, Most Exciting New Timepieces From Watches & Wonders 2024

Here are the highlights from the world’s biggest watch releases of the year.

By Allen Farmelo, Carol Besler, Paige Reddinger, Oren Hartov, Victoria Gomelsky, Cait Bazemore, Nick Scott, Justin Fenner 10/04/2024

Watches & Wonders, the world’s largest watch show, is in full swing in Geneva. The highly anticipated cascade of new releases is marked by confident individual brand identities — perhaps a sign that watchmakers are done scrambling through the violent collision of restricted supply and soaring demand for high end watches. All seem to be back on solid footing.

Steady confidence is a good thing. Consider Jaeger-LeCoultre offering up traditionally styled grand complications or Vacheron Constantin revamping the classic Patrimony with smaller cases and vintage-inspired radially brushed dials. Consider TAG Heuer celebrating the 55th anniversary of the square Monaco with a skeletonized flyback confidently priced at US$183,000, or Moser similarly showing off a fascinating skeletonized tourbillon in its distinctive 40 mm Streamliner at US$86,900. IWC has leaned hard into their traditionally styled Portugieser line, including an astounding Eternal Calendar complication. We find the storied French houses of Cartier, Chanel and Hermes blurring the lines between jewelry and watchmaking with the technical prowess and artistic whimsy that originally earned these brands their exalted place in the hearts and minds of sophisticated aesthetes. Confidence abounds in 2024.

We could go on and on with examples, but the watches below will demonstrate that for 2024 the big watch brands dared to be themselves, which appears to have given them the confidence to take some seriously compelling horological risks. We have separate coverage of off-show releases and, of course, Patek and Rolex, so keep and eye out for those.

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A Gucci Garden Blooms in Sydney

On a rainy Sydney night, the drinks talent from Maybe Sammy mixed with guest bartenders from Giardino 25 in Florence, for a night of liquid magic.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 13/04/2024

Since hanging out its shingle in 2022, Giardino 25, the all-day café and bar located in Gucci’s palatial, multidisciplinary space in Florence, has been a boon to stylish tipplers. Taking inspiration from one of its previous tenants (a longstanding florist), the garden-themed joint (Giardino is the Italian word for garden) serves delicious aperitivi and dangerously addictive cocktails.

 

Umbrian native Martina Bonci is in hair-to-brogue Gucci for her artful bartending session at El Primo Sanchez. 
Aurora cocktai at Giardino 25, Florence.

Giardino 25 took bloom this past Tuesday at a pop-up at El Primo Sanchez in Paddington. The Maybe Cocktail Festival in Sydney is a series of 20 events scattered throughout the city curated by the award-winning Sammy’s Cocktails team. The festival aims to spur knowledge-sharing and foster excellence in Australia’s drinks scene.

“Last year we held 16 events and they were all packed,” says Stefano Catino, director of hospitality at Public, the management company behind Maybe Sammy venues and bottled drinks, “so this year we’ve curated extra events and flown out even more international bars and bartenders.”

“Nineteen of the 21 events are free to attend, which is very important to us,” he continues. “The cost of living is high, and it’s very expensive for Australians to travel overseas, so this festival allows people to drink cocktails from an amazing bar in Rome or try a Tommy’s Margarita from the gentleman who created it without the cost of a plane ticket.”

Dressed head to toe in Gucci,  and using the bar as her personal catwalk, Giardino 25’s special guest, Martina Bonci, looked every bit the star behind the bar. “We have brought our mix of classic Italian influences and innovation,” she told Robb Report, “so guests in Australia get a little slice of what we do in Florence.”

Among her tantalising pours were powerful dirty martinis decorated with shimmering gold leaf and Aurora, a transparent twist on the Negroni.

Reflecting on her whirlwind trip down under, Bonci said their visit to Bondi Beach and the cocktails at Maybe Sammy were the highlights.

“The bartenders at Maybe Sammy are world-class,” she explained. “There is a good reason they win awards and have a respected reputation overseas. And El Primo Sanchez has such a fun atmosphere—we had a great night.”

Martina Bonci, Bar Manager at Gucci Giardino 25, has been honored twice as ‘Best Bartender in Italy’ by both the Bargiornale and Blue Blazer Awards. 

Bonci, who came to prominence in a long string at Milanese hipster joint Gesto and is known for her use of agave, favors drinks dripping with seasonal fruits and citrus flavors. Having tried her creations, we do, too.

She made a serious impression on Sydneysiders, who would do well to make a pilgrimage to see her in action on home turf. As if any of us need another reason to visit Italy.

The Maybe Cocktail Festival, continues this weekend in Sydney, with the public welcome to attend a Bartenders Brunch at Sydney’s Alpha on Sunday from 11.00 am – 3.00 pm, hosted by George Calombaris. 

View the program: Maybe Cocktail Festival @maybe_cocktail_fetsival

All images courtesy of Gucci.

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Patek Philippe Brings Back Collector Favourites at Watches & Wonders 2024

Both the Nautilus Chronograph and Aquanaut Travel Time receive a welcome return.

By Josh Bozin 10/04/2024

If you’re a watch fan, there’s every reason to believe that a Patek Philippe Nautilus, Patek Philippe Aquanaut—or both—would be high on your wish list. Both collections are of historical significance, helping pave the way for the influence of the steel sports watch category—and subsequent chokehold on the market today.

So, when Patek Philippe unveiled its newest releases at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, it was a pleasant surprise to see the return of two of the best past iterations of the Nautilus and Aquanaut collections.

Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph

First, we get a new Nautilus Chronograph, with the return of the revered 5980, now replete with a new case in white gold and a denim-like strap (a contentious issue among watch pundits). Discontinuing all Nautilus 5980 models earlier this year, including the collector-favourite 5980/1AR in Rose Gold, left a sombre feeling among Nautilus fanatics. These celebrated chronographs, renowned for their distinctive porthole-inspired design and air of sporty elegance, are some of the most sought-after watches in the Patek Philippe catalogue. Thus, the revival of the 5980, now in white gold, is a cause for collectors’ celebration.

The new offering retains its chronograph function with mono-counter tracking 60-minute and 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock on the dial, but now comes on a new denim-inspired, hand-stitched fabric strap with a Nautilus fold-over clasp in white gold—some will love it, some won’t.

Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe

The Calibre CH 28‑520 C/522 powers this new Nautilus with its flyback chronograph, all of which is visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback. The dial is also incredibly eye-catching, with a beautiful opaline blue-gray hue accentuated by white gold-applied hour markers with a white luminescent coating. It is priced at approximately $112,000.

Also returning to the fold is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time, now with its own bluish hue dial—similar to its Nautilus counterpart. After discontinuing the Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A this year, as well—a watch often regarded as the greatest Aquanaut to date—Patek Philippe surprised all with the new 5164G in white gold. Its greatest attribution is the clever Travel Time GMT function, which clearly rivals the Rolex GMT-Master II as perhaps the travel-friendly watch of choice (if acquiring one was that simple, of course).

For those who prefer the Aquanaut’s sportiness and easy-wearing rubber strap, this newest iteration, with its Opaline Blue-gray dial and matching rubber strap with a deployant clasp, is undoubtedly an icon in the making. The new 5164G has a 40mm case and features the Calibre 26‑330 S C FUS movement, which can also be viewed via the transparent sapphire crystal caseback.

Expect to pick up the new Aquanaut Travel Time for around $95,250.  

Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time

 

Follow @robbreportau for all your Watches & Wonders coverage, and more!

 

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Rolex Kicks Off Watches & Wonders 2024 with a New GMT-Master II

The new stainless steel GMT-Master II has already been dubbed the “Bruce Wayne”.

By Josh Bozin 09/04/2024

It may not be the GMT that watch pundits were speculating on—or that collectors were hoping for—but the new Rolex GMT-Master II with a new grey and black ceramic bezel adds dazzle to the revered Rolex collection, which this year celebrates its 70th anniversary.

The idea of a new Rolex GMT launching at the world’s biggest watch fair is cause for a little madness. While the watch community eagerly awaited what was thought to be the discontinuation of the highly sought-after GMT “Pepsi” and the return of the GMT “Coke,” the luxury Swiss watchmaker had other plans.

Instead, we’re presented with a piece that, on paper, hasn’t changed much from previous GMT releases. That’s not to say that this isn’t an impressive release that will speak to consumers—the new GMT-Master II ref.126710GRNR, dubbed the “Bruce Wayne,” is definitely a sight for sore eyes.

Rolex
Rolex

This new GMT retains the same dimensions and movement as the other watches in the GMT collection, along with its 40mm size case and the option to fit either an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. The obvious changes, albeit subtle, come in the way of its mostly monochrome return; a fact that will appease traditionalists. If you’re opposed to the attention-drawing “Pepsi”, “Sprite”, or “Batman” iterations, this model is a stealthier pick—much like pseudonymous Bruce Wayne.

The other noticeable change is the “GMT-Master II” now applied in green text and a 24-hour hand in green; perhaps a nod to the 2007 Basel World GMT release.

Like many Rolex timepieces, this will generate great hype and attention, so don’t expect allocations to come easily.

Rolex
Rolex

Model: GMT-Master II
Reference Number: 126710GRNR

Diameter: 40mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Colour: Black
Lume: Chromalight on hands and hour markers
Water Resistance: 100m
Bracelet: Oyster or Jubilee

Movement: Caliber 3285
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT
Power Reserve: 70 hours
Winding: Automatic

Price: $17,150 (Oyster); $17,500 (Jubilee)
Availability: Now. Non-limited edition

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Moments in Time

Silversea’s Kimberley adventures transport passengers into a different dimension.

By Vince Jackson 09/04/2024

Whoever refuted the theory of time-travel has clearly never set foot in the Kimberley, a geological relic where craggy landscapes forged hundreds of millions of years ago remain untouched, and dinosaur footprints are still etched into the ochre terrain. And while traversing one of the planet’s last great wildernesses in a 4X4 holds rugged appeal, a more refined way to explore the Western Australian outback is by cruise liner. 

Enter the Silver Cloud, one of Silversea’s most luxurious vessels, available for 10- or 17-day expeditions. Upon arrival via private executive transfer, expect a level of intimacy that’s often conspicuous on other cruise experiences. With a maximum of just 200 guests, attended to by 212 staff, the Silver Cloud can lay claim to the greatest passenger-to-crew ratios operating in the Kimberley. Twenty-four-hour butler service is standard for every suite, along with ocean views—no matter if you plump for a modest 22 m² Vista Suite or supersize to a 217 m² Grand Suite.

Yet bigger is not necessarily better on water; the ship itself is compact enough to manoeuvre into isolated coves and waterways that larger vessels—or, indeed, four-wheel-drive Land Cruisers—are unable access. Each sunrise brings the promise of an unforgettable adventure, whether hopping on a Zodiac at Koolama Bay to witness the cascading thunder of the 80-m-high, twin King George Falls, or embarking at Swift Bay to scramble over rocky standstone and view the disparate rock-art forms on display at the sacred Wandjina art galleries—some reckoned to be up to 12,000 years old.

Another example of the Kimberley’s ability to propel you back through time.

Prices from $15,500 pp (10 days) and $23,900 pp (17 days); June 9-19, and August 8-25 or August 25- September 11 respectively; silversea.com

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