The 7 Best Men’s Watches of Baselworld 2019

There were few groundbreaking releases this year, but some managed to rise above the pack.

By Paige Reddinger 02/04/2019

Baselworld, Switzerland’s largest watch and jewellery trade show, has seen its number of exhibitors decline over the years and this year was smaller than ever after Swatch Group (as well as some other brands like Corum) announced it would no longer exhibit at the show. Swatch Group owns 18 watch and jewellery brands so its absence made a significant impact. Overall, however, the waning attendance of the show was topped off with lacklustre debuts that, mostly, did not move the needle in terms of innovative product and design. Many of the new releases included small updates in materials or movements on existing models. Production in the Swiss watch industry moves slowly, so that may say more about what was going on economically in 2017 or the beginning of 2018 than it does about anything else. It may also mean that brands are saving new releases for later on in the year.

That being said, there were still a few stars of the show that deserve highlighting. We’ll be going into more depth about these pieces later, but for now these are the watches of Baselworld 2019 that you should be keeping your eye on or scrambling to get on your wrist. And you can expect every one of these to be tough to get, limited or not.

Greubel Forsey

Greubel Forsey GMT Quadruple Tourbillon
Courtesy of Greubel Forsey

The first version of Greubel Forsey’s masterful GMT timepiece was launched in 2011 and was known for its incredible finishing that included graining, beveling, black polishing, lapping, and frosting—showing off Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey’s mastery of 200-year-old English and French techniques for which the brand has become known. It was also notable for its 3D globe that indicated the earth’s rotation in real time. The watchmaking duo unveiled a new version last year called the GMT Earth (one of Robb Report‘s Best of the Best 2018 timepieces), which was equipped with a mechanism similar to the original GMT movement but came with a new redesign and a window on the side of the case that showed another view of the 3D globe.

This year Greubel Forsey took its GMT to the next level with a quadruple tourbillon. Since the launch of their Double Tourbillon 30° with their debut watch in 2004, the company has made it a bit of a mission to constantly re-imagine the tourbillon (the Quadruple Tourbillon followed in 2005 and the Tourbillon 23 seconds in 2006). This year they merged the ingenuity of their GMT watch with their mastery of the tourbillon in the new GMT Quadruple Tourbillon. It’s a clever homage to the invention created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801 to remedy the effects of earth’s gravity on a timepiece—here the tourbillons gravitate around the earth.

Patek Philippe Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A

Patek Philippe Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A
Courtesy of Patek Philippe

This is the first Calatrava in steel (approximately $47,000), not in a limited series, in 70 years. That in and of itself will be a reason for collectors to want to get their hands on this watch (and it’s one they might actually be able to unlike other Patek Philippe introductions). But a deeper look at this 40mm by 10.79mm watch reveals it’s housing a new self-winding base calibre, a semi-integrated weekly calendar calibre 26-330 movement—based on the self-winding calibre 324, which took years of development. It tells the day of the week, the date at a three o’clock aperture, and the month, and comes with a 53-week indicator. (That number accounts for years with an extra week, which happens every five to six years, with the next occurrence happening in 2020.) The icing on this cake is that its unusual numerals were actually based on the handwriting of one of its designers. It adds something to this watch’s retro appeal, in a nod to two things threatened with extinction: the art of handwriting and the art of timekeeping.

Chopard LUC Flying T

Chopard L.U.C. Flying T Twin
Courtesy of Chopard

This is Chopard’s first calibre with a flying tourbillon and they made sure to do it justice not only with a hand-guilloché dial with a snailed design around the chapter ring and a centre circle with a honeycomb motif first used by the watchmaker in 2017 on the L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer edition. It’s also a nod to the first logo used by Louis-Ulysse Chopard—a beehive. The chronometer-certified movement also features a stop seconds function and comes with an official Poinçon de Genève certification for quality and finishing.

But there’s more to extract from this timepiece beyond the dial and its new high complication—both come housed in a 40 mm x 7.2 mm case made from 18-karat fairmined rose gold. Chopard is one of the few watchmakers committed to ethically mined gold and the L.U.C Flying T Twin is crafted from a single block of it. Chopard’s gold ensures that both the environment where it is sourced and the miners who work to deliver it are treated fairly. The company also reinvests money back into local community projects. It is a commitment that Chopard has pledged since July of last year and it has certainly set them a step above the rest.

Zenith El Primero Revival A386

Zenith El Primero Revival A386
Courtesy of Zenith

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the El Primero, Zenith launched a special collector’s box of three watches representing the past, the present, and the future of its famous movement. The past was represented by a stainless steel recreation of the original timepiece that housed the movement at its birth, the present was a Chronomaster 2 El Primero, and the future was a Defy El Primero 21 Chronograph—the latest version of the model released in 2017, which took the original El Primero’s 36,000 mph frequency and multiplied it by 10 making it the first mechanical watch able to measure times up to 1/100th of a second. The box set, limited to 50, was an immediate collector’s darling and has already sold out. So for Baselworld, Zenith came back with new iterations of its most popular model—the original, of course—in white gold, rose gold, and yellow gold. At 38mm by 12.6mm it wears as retro as it looks.

The El Primero has a ton of history, so for now, we’ll do a quick-ish summary. After seven years of development, Zenith’s (known as Zenith-Movado at the time) El Primero was launched 50 years ago on January 10th, 1969 marking the first time a high-frequency (36,000 vibrations per hour) automatic chronograph hit the market. Until then, Seiko and the Chronomatic Group, which was comprised of brands Hamilton-Buren, Breitling, Heuer, and Dubois Dépraz had all been competing and racing to develop the first automatic chronograph. That same year, the quartz crisis took hold. Seiko unveiled the world’s first quartz watch on December 25, 1969. Two years later in 1971, Zenith was sold to Zenith Radio Corporation, the Chicago-based manufacturer of radios and television. Production of the El Primero waned as quartz took over the world and was eventually ended by 1974. With extraordinary foresight Zenith watchmaker, Charles Vermot, realizing its importance, safeguarded the tools necessary to make the movement.

Enter the crown—in the early ’80s, Ebel and Rolex played a major role in reviving the El Primero. Ebel was first in 1981, when head honcho Pierre-Alain Blum wanted to offer an automatic chronograph in his catalogue. Rolex followed, equipping its Daytona models with the El Primero calibre. Vermot’s tools allowed Zenith to quickly restart production on the scale required for Rolex. Those El Primero Daytona rollies have since become coveted watches. Back when the Rolex El Primero Daytona Ref. 16520 was released it was about $3300 (around $4600)…it now retails for over $20,000 (approximately $28,100) .

The new trio of Zenith El Primero throwbacks retail for 19,900 CHF (approximately $28,000 at current exchange), but once they’re gone—and assuming Zenith doesn’t continue to update these in years to come—these timepieces, limited to 50 in each metal, will one day see an ROI that could be as impressive as a Ref. 16520.

Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition

Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition
Courtesy of Breitling

Another retro edition popped up at Baselworld in Breitling’s Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition and you can thank Breitling collector Fred Mandelbaum for this one. The collector was part of the development and relaunch of this particular model. The watch, according to Mandelbaum’s Instagram @watchfred, is as true to the original as when it left the manufacture for sale 60 years ago—that includes its dimensions, design, and finishing. Breitling went so far as to match even the smallest details to the original like the number of beads around the bezel (94, to be exact to the 1959 model) and the unsigned winged logo, which was used only for the European market (an AOPA-signed logo was used on watches sold in the U.S.).

The only thing new here, other than SuperLuminova markings and water resistance of 30 metres is a new in-house manufacture movement, the calibre B09, which is based on its inherent-house manufacture calibre 01 and is a COSC-certified chronometer and Breitling says the movement will power many of its hand-wound historical re-editions to come. That means there will be more re-editions in the future but whether they will be as accurate to the original as this one remains to be seen.

At $8600 (around $12,000) this 40.9mm x 12.43mm watch is definitively the more affordable of the re-editions and only 1,959 pieces will be available.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Carbon

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Ceramic
Courtesy of Bulgari

This year Bulgari continued forging on with its quest for thinness and came out with the world’s thinnest automatic chronograph at 6.9mm slim. It comes in a sandblasted titanium and is a follow up to last year’s groundbreaking October Finissmio collection debut (Robb Report‘s Best of the Best timepieces for 2018), but our personal favourite of the new Octo Finissimo watches keeps it clean and straight-up minimalist modern—the Octo Finissimo black ceramic three-hand. It comes in a skeleton version, which is mighty impressive but something about the modernity of this design calls for a clean and simple timepiece that can be worn at every hour of the day. Similar looking carbon fibre Octo Finissmos exist, but one is a minute repeater and the other, which debuted earlier this year, is an automatic tourbillon. The ceramic three-hand ($21,900) isn’t exactly revolutionary given its predecessors but if you’re looking to get your hands on this design without shelling out six figures for a tourbillon or minute repeater, it’s a very welcome new addition.

Grand Seiko Snowflake

Grand Seiko
Courtesy of Grand Seiko

This baby was one of the most talked about watches of Baselworld. And in case any watch newcomers are wondering what’s so great about Seiko (and we know there are some of you still out there)—welcome to the world of Grand Seiko. This is an entirely different wing of the brand, separate from the one that’s known for having launched the quartz crisis. Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko is known for its high-end timepieces created in two exclusive watch studios in Japan using unique movements and finishing techniques that are quite unlike anything coming out of Switzerland. It is therefore under the radar to the general public, but for many collectors, its understated elegance and commitment to perfectionism and precision, so inherent to Japanese culture, makes it a seriously coveted brand.

This year they outdid themselves with a snowflake dial, accented with 14-karat white gold markers and hands, inspired by the Shinshu region, home to Grand Seiko. The finish on the dial seems to melt or blend into the case which has been hand carved, in platinum 950 no less, to replicate the pattern on the dial. Flip it over and you will find the Calibre 9R02. The first thing you will notice is the barrel whose shape mimics the local bellflower, a symbol of Shiojiri where the Micro Artist Studio is located. The words “Micro Artist” are engraved on an 18-karat gold plaque set on the lower bridge, which can also be replaced with the client’s name. The 9R02, however, is notable in that it’s a new movement that improves upon its famous Spring Drive movement, first launched in 1999 and lauded for its accuracy, with two mainsprings set in parallel within a single barrel. It employs a Torque Return System that uses a percentage of energy from the torque of the watch when it is fully wound to rewind the mainspring thereby increasing the power reserve to 84 hours.

It’s an exceptional 38.55 x 9.8mm timepiece and with just 30 pieces worldwide at approximately $106,900 a piece, it will take an exceptional collector to buy one.

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Everybody Loves Naomi 

Fashion fans adore her. And so do we. Lucky, then, that a new exhibition is paying homage to four decades of snake-hipped catwalking.

By Joseph Tenni 22/06/2024

Naomi Campbell contains multitudes. Since emerging on the scene in 1986, modelling for British designer Jasper Conran, the statuesque stunner has used the runway for takeoff. She has ventured into all aspects of the culture, from Vogue to Playboy and reality TV. In the business arena, she has dabbled in publishing and the two F&Bs (fragrance and beauty, and food and beverage). Her philanthropic efforts are legion.

Naomi is better known than any of her peers and, aged 54, remains more relevant than ever. As a testament to her pervading influence, a new exhibition, Naomi: In Fashion, is opening at London’s Victoria & Albert Museum. Celebrating her 40 years in the spotlight, the show includes clothes from the model’s closet and some of the designer fashion she has helped to immortalise.

We all know her snake-hipped walk, her glowing skin, her famous paramours, and—yes—her many tantrums and tiaras. But how much do we love her exactly? Let’s count some of the ways. 

1. She Was Born to Be Famous

Many people know Naomi for her appearances in music videos for Michael Jackson’s In the Closet and George Michael’s Freedom! ’90—the latter also featuring fellow supermodels Linda, Cindy and Christy. But Naomi has been in front of the camera since she was a child, and her prolific music-video career predates her modelling. At 8, she appeared in the official video for Bob Marley’s 1978 hit Is This Love. At 13, Culture Club cast her as a tap-dancing teen in I’ll Tumble 4 Ya. It would be another two years before she was discovered by model scout Beth Boldt, while shopping in London’s Covent Garden.

Courtesy Off-White. Photo Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

2. She Hits All the Right Notes

As anyone who has ever seen Unzipped, the 1995 cult fashion documentary by Douglas Keeve, Naomi always has a song in her heart. She put her mouth where her money was in 1994 and recorded an album, Babywoman. The cover art featured Naomi, photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth, shaving her legs while sitting on the toilet. Fittingly, the album was canned—despite assistance from contributors like Donna Summer and PM Dawn. 

3. She’s Always Ready for Her Close-Up
Hollywood’s history is full of models who went on to become successful actors. Naomi is not one of them. But not for want of trying. Her turn as a nightclub singer in Vanilla Ice’s 1991 movie Cool as Ice flies under the radar but doesn’t deserve to. Nor does her scene-stealing cameo as a French cheese shopper in The Night We Never Met, alongside Matthew Broderick and Jeanne Tripplehorn. Or her playing a sexy telephone operator in Spike Lee’s Girl 6. Who else has that kind of range? 

4. She Tells It Like It Is

We’d be remiss not to mention her 1994 novel Swan. A roman a clef about a young girl breaking into the modelling industry, flanked by her four besties who are also divas in training heels, it certainly played with genres. A murder-mystery-cum-sexy-romance-cum-vocational-advice page-turner, or something like that, this guilty pleasure was cruelly overlooked and relegated to the annals of bargain bins everywhere. 

5. She’s Got a Mind for Business

Naomi has been vocal over the years about making less money than her white peers and was not going to wait for the industry to catch up. Instead, she has ventured into businesses ranging from her former stake in the Fashion Cafe in New York to her signature fragrances, first released in 1999. What does Naomi smell like? Subtle yet complicated, consisting of top notes of peach, coconut and bergamot with a deep, woody base of cedar and sandalwood—apparently.

6. She Gives Until It Hurts

For a so-called narcissist, Naomi has often put her fame to philanthropic use. She has galvanised black models in fashion with the Black Girls Coalition and has raised money for Africa, Haiti and disaster relief worldwide, including after the Mumbai terrorist attacks. When she was dating the Russian billionaire and Aman Resorts owner Vladislav Doronin, she became committed to saving the tiger. Is there anything this overachiever can’t do?

7. She Can Make Hay From Anything

When she was sentenced to community service following allegations by a former employer that Naomi had attacked her with a mobile phone, the model emerged from her punishment dressed in couture and trailed by a photo crew who were shooting a fashion layout of her for W magazine. And when she was summoned in 2010 to appear in a war crimes trial against former Liberian president Charles Taylor—in relation to an uncut blood diamond he’d allegedly given her—our girl showed up in an Azzedine Alaïa twin-set and wearing a silver “evil eye” necklace, turning the courtroom into a photo opportunity.

8. She’ll Be on Your Side for Evermore
The fashion industry is hardly known for its loyalty or congeniality, but Naomi has maintained decades-long friendships with not only her supermodel sisters like Christy Turlington but also some of the most powerful and difficult players, including John Galliano and Marc Jacobs. That she has remained tight with so many of her friends is not lost on her adoring public. She must be a loyal person and in return, fans everywhere remain loyal to her.

Naomi: In Fashion runs from June 22, 2024, until April 16, 2025, at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London; vam.ac.uk

Courtesy Vivienne Westwood. Photo Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

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The Sapphire Dinner 2024 Raises Support for Ocean Conservation

This year’s boldfaced bash raised funds for our critically under-supported national treasures. 

By Horacio Silva 22/06/2024

The big fish of Sydney society came out Thursday night for the third annual Sapphire Dinner to raise much-needed money for ocean conservation. Held in conjunction with the Art Gallery of New South Wales, the boldfaced bash was the first sit-down dinner held at the Tank, a repurposed World War II fuel container that sits beneath the Art Gallery’s new wing. 

Set against a backdrop of immersive ocean-inspired video projections by South Korean digital creators d’strict, and with a dress code that inspired guests to recycle their most fabulous fashions, the zero-waste dinner supports The Sapphire Project’s mission to galvanise the community to take action to protect our oceans and the Great Barrier Reef.

Deep-pocketed VIPs who walked the evening’s blue carpet included  Malcolm and Lucy Turnbull, real estate maven Monika Tu, Penelope Seidler, Anna Marsden (Managing Director of Great Barrier Reef Foundation), Michael and Tina Brand, Andrew Cameron, MCA Chair Lorraine Tarabay, Myer boss Olivia Wirth, benefactors Paris Neilsen and Beau Neilson, and Paul Howes and Olivia Wirth, the power couple known as ‘Paulivia’. 

Retired swimmer Giaan Rooney MC’d the event, hosted by Sapphire Committee co-chairs Hayley Baillie and Ryan Gollan and committee members Ian Thorpe AM, Luke Hepworth, Clare Herschell, Susan Wynne, Brioney Prier, Bianca Rinehart, Doris Ma, Kate Champion, Ellie Aitken, and Chong Chua. 

A troupe of former Australian Ballet dancers and a musical performance by the Fijian-Australian singer and actress Paulini entertained the revellers.   

Among the auctioned items was an original work by Del Kathryn Barton, which raised more than $200,000 in a high-spirited bidding war led by Four Pillars Gin founder Stu Gregor, whose expletive-laden entreaties were suitably salty. 

Nobody minded, given that more than a million dollars were raised to support the criminally underfunded ocean conservation (it’s estimated that only about 2 percent of philanthropy in Australia goes towards the preservation of our precious national treasures), with funds going to support important initiatives such as The Great Barrier Reef Foundation, the University of Sydney’s One Tree Island Research Station, the Australian Museum’s Lizard Island Research Station, the Australian Sea Lion Recovery Foundation and Biopixel Oceans Foundation’s Project Hammerhead

The Sapphire Project Dinner 2024
Clare Herschell, Kate Champion, Bianca Rinehart & Hayley Baillie
The tablescapes at the Sapphire Project Dinner
Ian Thorpe
Adrian and Beck Buchan
Monika Tu
The Sapphire Project Dinnner 2024
Lucy & Malcolm Turnbull
Sapphire Committee co-chairs Hayley Baillie & Ryan Gollan

For further information, visit SapphireProject.com.au

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The 10 Best Omakase in Sydney

Sydney’s best Japanese chef’s-table dining experiences.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 06/06/2024

In Japan, where food is a cultural art form, omakase stands for traditional Japanese foods made with seasonal ingredients. A good omakase meal, prepared with purity and mindfulness, can make an unforgettable imprint on the culinary memory. Yet in a land defined by seasonal traditions, omakase is a relatively new concept.

Omakase originated in Japan in the 1970s as affluent Japanese began to dine more regularly at first-rate sushi counters. Bowing to the expertise of the sushi master, omakase loosely translates to “I’ll leave it to you.” In a setting where money is no object, letting the chef decide was designed as a chic way to take the awkwardness out of ordering.

In Australia where there’s an abundance of fresh seafood, omakase menus have experienced a recent rise in popularity. Today omakase is any series of small dishes served directly by the chef to the diner. Each part of the meal is presented on beautiful ceramics and lacquer wear, with a great —and somewhat— intimidating reverence for elegant details. It’s a chance to see a chef’s knife skills up close and get a feel for their cooking style.

Omakase menus are based on whatever is freshest at the market and can be influenced by the chef’s mood, expertise, and response to the guest. They can be slowly paced like a ceremony—hushed and reverential—but they can also be rowdy, humorous, and personal.
Here we give you 10 of the best to try in Sydney.

Yoshi’s Omakase at Nobu Crown Sydney

Crown Sydney, Level 2/1 Barangaroo Ave, Barangaroo. Open: 12–3 pm, 5:30–9:30 pm Phone: 02 8871 7188 Reservations: F&B-SYD-Nobu@crownresorts.com.au; $380 per head (including matched wine and sake). Crownsydney.com.au

Sushi Oe

16/450 Miller St, Cammeray; Tue – Sat. SMS only 0451 9709 84 E: jizakana16@gmail.com Phone: 0426 233 984 $230 per head. jizakana.com.au

Kisuke with Yusuke Morita

50 Llankelly Place, Potts Point; Tuesday – Saturday: 17:30 – 10.45 (closed Sunday/ Monday) $185-200 per head Kisukepottspoint.com

Haco 

102/21 Alberta St, Sydney. Lunch, Friday to Saturday 12 -2:00 pm Dinner, Tuesday to Saturday 5:45 pm – 8:1 5pm (closed Sunday & Mondays) P: 0408 866 285                                     E: haco@hacosydney.com.au; $150 – $210 Hacosydney.com.au

Kuon

Shop 04 2/58 Little Hay St, Sydney, Lunch: Fri-Sun 12:30 pm. Dinner  Tue-Sun 5:15 pm or 7:45 pm sittings.  Reservation via SMS at 0488 688 252; $220 per head @kuon.omakase

Sokyo 

The Darling, Level G, 80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont. Open dinner Monday to Thursday from 5:45 pm P: 1800 700 700 $300 per head Sokyo.com.au

Kuro

368 Kent St, Sydney; Open Tue – Wed – Thur: 6 pm Fri & Sat: 5:30 pm P: 02 9262 1580, reservations@kurosydney.com $220 per head. Kurosydney.com;

Choji Omakase

Level 2, 228 Victoria Ave, Chatswood —upstairs from Choji Yakiniku. Every Monday to Wednesday at 6.30 pm. One seating per day only. $295 per head. Chojiomakase.com.au

Gold Class Daruma

The Grace Hotel, Level 1/77 York St, Sydney; 12–2:30 pm, 5:30–9.00 pm Phone: (02) 9262 1190 M: 0424 553 611 booking@goldclassdaruma.com.au·$120 – $150 per head Goldclassdaruma.com.au

Besuto

Besuto Omakase, Sydney Place precinct, 3 Underwood Street, Circular Quay. Omakase is available to book for dinner – Tuesday to Saturday. 5:30 pm & 8pm sittings. From $250. Besuto.com.au

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is no soy and wasabi offered during my omakase meal?
Even though sushi and sashimi are being served, the chef is serving each piece of sushi so quickly and directly that the chef is applying the wasabi and soy to the sushi themselves. Watch as they brush the top of the fish with soy and dab a tiny amount of wasabi on the rice, under the fish. You should not need to add extra, and in fact, it can be insulting to the chef to add more. Bathing the bottom of the rice of your sushi in soy sauce is considered bad manners, as it is seen as detracting from the flavour of the fish.

Nobu, Sydney

Can an omakase experience accommodate my dietary needs?
Although there is often little variation once the chef has set the daily menu, some customisation is possible. Advise the restaurant when you book and remind them of allergies or aversions again as you sit down. They will let you know when you book if your allergy is possible for the chef. Japanese menus feature a lot of seafood and dashi so accommodating a no seafood request can be genuinely tricky.

What are the golden rules for chopstick etiquette?
Use your chopstick holder in between eating, rather than putting chopsticks on your plate. Don’t use your chopsticks to gesticulate or point; if offering food to someone to try, never pass food directly from your chopsticks to theirs. Rather place the food onto a small plate and let them pick it up.
Never touch communal or shared food with your chopsticks. The longer, slightly larger chopsticks are like sharing cutlery, never put these in your mouth.

Without a menu, how can I know what I am eating during omakase?
Omakase is often a no-menu situation, and you are expected to try new things. Attending an omakase experience with an open, trusting mind yields the best results.
There are Wagyu and tempura omakase that reflect the chef’s personal predilections and training, but in a standard luxury omakase, the format will include a lot of freshly caught seafood and will usually kick off with a delicate appetiser. This will be followed by a sashimi and sushi course, a savoury egg custard (chawanmushi) with meat and seafood, a cooked or blow-torched market fish, a soup course, and dessert.

Can I talk to the chef during omakase? What is the protocol?
Guests at an omakase experience are welcome to ask questions of the chef; in fact, interacting with the chef is part of the experience. It is considered polite to ask questions or inquire about the food so they can explain.

What is best to pair with omakase  in terms of drinks?
In general, wine and sake are a perfect match for omakase. Aged fish and vinegar have strong umami flavours so depending on which course you enjoy, different wine and sake will pair well. Dry chilled sake is a great choice. Amazing sakes are imported into Australia, so trust the restaurant to advise you and take you on a sake journey at the same time.  If you don’t like sake, drinking chardonnay, a crisp young riesling, or even a dry complex Riesling is also totally acceptable. All three styles help bring out the flavour of the fish. Champagne can also be good. Try a blanc de blancs— 100% chardonnay —for a great way to start the meal. As you progress, remember that sake is good for dishes with a strong taste, such as uni and eel.

Nobu, Sydney

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The Tod’s SS25 Men’s Collection in Milan Was a Showcase of “Artisanal Intelligence”

It was also the debut men’s collection by creative director Matteo Tamburini.

By Josh Bozin 20/06/2024

Earlier this week, Tod’s presented its SS25 men’s collection at the Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea (PAC) for Milan Fashion Week, where all eyes were fixed on Matteo Tamburini and his debut menswear collection as Tod’s newest creative director.

Striking “a balance between tradition and modernity”, was the former Bottega Veneta designer’s intention, and indeed his showcase offerered a spotlight on the quality, materials, and detailing that are central to the Tod’s wardrobe.

“The collection is more about subtraction rather than addition, highlighting the very elevated, timeless and relaxed materials,” says Tamburini via a statement.

Tod’s

In line with Tod’s restrained design codes, the garments presented were characterised by timelessness, unmistakable Italian flair, yet a casualness appropriate for everyday wear. Only the best leathers were used in the collection—thanks to the Pashmy project, which Tod’s unveiled in January to champion high-end Italian materials—used in creating garments like the Tod’s Bomber, the Gio Jacket, the Shirt Jacket, the Di Bag sack, as well as footwear staples, like the Tod’s T-Riviera.

Of course, the iconic Gommino driving shoe wasn’t without an update, too: you’ll find a new sabot interpretation, as well as the Bubble Gommino introduced in a new boat model with the T-bar accessory.

“Craftsmanship” was at the forefront of messaging, with chairman and chief executive officer of the Tod’s Group, Diego Della Valle, reiterating the message of honouring artisanal arts in an increasingly digital-first world.”[It’s] important to uphold artisanal intelligence, keeping under control artificial intelligence as it is now developing rapidly and powerfully,” he said via a statement.

“Individuals and artisanal intelligence at the centre, with its traditions and values, will contribute to keep artificial intelligence in check. Our Italian craftsmanship and supply chain can be an example of the combination of tradition and the new speed of artificial intelligence.”

tods.com

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Pitti Uomo’s Best-Dressed Men Cut Through the Noise With Personal Style

From vintage gems to tasteful tailoring, attendees of Florence’s biannual tradeshow brought their best sartorial selves.

By Naomi Rougeau, Lorenzo Sodi 20/06/2024

Whether or not you’re well versed in the ins and outs of Pitti Uomo, the biannual menswear tradeshow in Florence that brings together buyers, press—and, naturally, a vast ostentation of peacocks—the chances are that photos from the gathering are still making their way into your newsfeed. You might even smirk at the mention of it. To be sure, you’ll encounter plenty of “overdressing” strolling through the main venues but by and large, great personal style manages to cut through the noise.

Part of what makes the Pitti scene so exciting is that menswear moves relatively slowly. It’s less about seeing something earth shatteringly new but rather gradual shifts and discovering fresh ways to put things together. Menswear regulars such as Alessandro Squarzi, owner of a considerable vintage archive that influences his Milanese boutique Fortela, can be relied upon to provide inspiration on how to make tried and true staples and silhouettes feel modern.

Speaking of new old things, vintage fashions made their way into the chat in a big way this June, whether in terms of rare finds or sustainable efforts via upcycling, fabric development and natural dyes (Paris-based De Bonne Facture achieved an ideal medium brown using coffee, for instance). At the heart of the conversation was another bona fide vintage guru Maurizio Donadi who made a case for the timelessness and democratic nature of indigo with his centuries-spanning exhibit of antique garments from around the globe.

Below you’ll find a dozen of our favorite looks from Pitti Uomo 106, lensed by our eagle-eyed street-style photographer Lorenzo Sodi. We hope they inspire.

Lorenzo Sodi

A lesson in simplicity and the power of a classic palette—good quality vintage accents such as a turquoise embellished belt buckle add interest to timeless workwear. Ray-Ban’s universally-flattering Wayfarer sunglasses are the perfect finishing touch.

Lorenzo Sodi

Sans suit and shirt, the neckerchief (of which there were many at Pitti), adds a welcome dose of colour to a white tee and relaxed jacket and proves that sometimes one choice detail is all it takes. A well-loved, slightly-too-long belt and canvas Vans contribute to the casual harmony.

Lorenzo Sodi

Whatever the weather, you’ll find Douglas Cordeaux, from Fox Brothers, looking immaculate in shirt and tie… and a suit made of one of Fox’s many fabrics. British elegance, embodied.

Lorenzo Sodi

Relaxed elegance is the foundation of the Brunello Cuccinelli brand. Here, the maestro himself shows us how it’s done in a double-breasted linen ensemble featuring a few personal flourishes.

Lorenzo Sodi

Designer Alessandro Pirounis of Pirounis offers a masterclass on the rule of three with a contemporary twist, subbing the usual jacket with an overshirt of his own design.

Lorenzo Sodi

A renaissance man takes Florence. True to his roots, US Marine veteran, Savile Row-trained tailor and photographer Robert Spangle blazes a sartorial trail that’s all his own.

Lorenzo Sodi

Cream trousers are an essential element of elegant Italian summer style. Designer Nicola Radano of Spacca Neapolis channels one of the greats (Marcello Mastroianni) in a dark polo of his own design, collar spread wide across his jacket’s lapel for a welcome retro lean.

Lorenzo Sodi

Proof of the power of tonal dressing, that can create an impactful outfit just by sticking to the same colour family. A chic ensemble and in some ways an elevated version of the double-denim look, every element is working hard in service to the whole.

Lorenzo Sodi

UK-based stylist Tom Stubbs has long been a proponent of blousy pleats, lengthy db jackets, and statement-making neck scarves and here, in vintage Armani, he embodies the louche, oversize look that many designers are just now catching up on.

Lorenzo Sodi

A tailor splitting his time between Berlin and Cologne, Maximilian Mogg is known for his strong-shouldered, architectural suiting. Yet in Mogg’s hands, particularly with this non-traditional colour scheme, the effect is always modern and youthful.

Lorenzo Sodi

If Max Poglia’s relaxed Hawaiian shirt and suit combo is any indication, summer has truly arrived. But it’s an excellent example of how to wearing tailoring in more casual fashion. This cream db would look perfect with shirt and tie at a wedding in August and just as chic here with slippers and a laid-back shirt.

Lorenzo Sodi

Another example of how tailoring can be laid-back and breezy for summer, from a dude who looks no stranger to enjoying the best of the warmer months. Jaunty pocket square, sandals, untucked linen shirt…go forth and emulate.

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