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16 watches that made history in Hollywood action films
See who got the most face time on the big screen’s A-list heroes.
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Nearly every action hero comes equipped with a top-shelf timepiece, whether it’s Sean Connery battling the mysterious Dr. No as James Bond, Tom Cruise doing barrel rolls in a F-14A Tomcat in Top Gun or Sly Stallone taking down villains in The Expendables. You know the costume department has aced it when the timepiece matches the character’s persona. Bruce Wayne (aka Batman) opted for an elegant and refined Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso—a metaphor for the wrist that illustrated his dual existence. Meanwhile, Robert Downey Jr.’s Urwerk 110-RG sported a wild design and revolutionary mechanics, which reflected the mad genius of Tony Stark (aka Iron Man). In the case of Tom Hanks’s Omega Speedmaster in Apollo 13, no metaphor was necessary—the watch saved the lives of all on board the real-life failed lunar mission on which the film is based.
Some watches that achieve a big-screen debut in an action film, however, take on a larger-than-life role beyond the screen, firmly cementing their status both in Hollywood history and in watch-collecting circles for decades . . . and potentially for centuries to come. Connery’s ref. 6538 Rolex Submariner has become a holy grail for collectors, while Omega has cornered modern-day James Bond with its Seamaster.
Here are the watches that made it to the big screen on Hollywood’s toughest heroes.
## Dr. No (1962): Sean Connery, Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538
Sean Connery wearing Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 in Dr. No
Photo: Danjaq/EON/UA/Kobal/REX/Shutterstock
Sean Connery introduced James Bond into the Hollywood film canon when he appeared in the first instalment of the iconic series in 1962’s Dr. No. Connery wore a Rolex Submariner ref. 6538 on the big screen while tracking down the mysterious Dr. No bent on destroying the U.S. space program. The ref. 6538, which was first produced sometime around 1953, would go on accompanying Connery as Bond on his missions in films such as From Russia with Love, Goldfinger and Thunderball.
Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 worn in Dr. No
Photo: Courtesy of Rolex
## Le Mans (1971): Steve McQueen, Tag Heuer Monaco
Le Mans – 1971
Solar/Cinema Center/Kobal/REX/Sh
Every year, brands come out with new collections referencing Steve McQueen’s style, but many of those brands never existed during McQueen’s life. Tag Heuer, however, can lay claim to having laid its hands on McQueen’s wrist in what is arguably the most famous automotive racing film of all time. Not only did the actor wear the now instantly recognisable square-faced Tag Heuer Monaco on his wrist, but he also wore the Swiss watchmaker’s name and crest on his racing suit in the film. It has been said that McQueen chose the piece from a selection of timepieces flown to the set, which were accompanied by Jack Heuer himself.
A Rolex Submariner purchased by McQueen and engraved with a special message by the actor to his stuntman, Loren Janes, was set to be sold at Phillips on October 25. It was expected to be a blockbuster sale, but questions about the timepiece’s provenance forced the auction house to recently take it off the block.
## Top Gun (1986): Tom Cruise, Porsche Design Orfina 7176s
Val Kilmer and Tom Cruise wearing Porsche Design Orfina 7176s in Top Gun
Photo: 1996-98 AccuSoft Inc., All rights reserved
Arguably one of the greatest flight films of all time, Top Gun firmly solidified Tom Cruise as one of the biggest film stars of his generation. Most people assume that Cruise wore an IWC to complete his training missions as the hotshot fighter-pilot-in-training, Maverick, because the Swiss watchmaker has issued several Top Gun–branded timepieces over the years, but it was actually a Porsche Design Orfina 7176s. Made by watch manufacturer Orfina for Porsche design in the ’80s, the timepiece featured a self-winding Lemania caliber 5100 and came in PVD-coated stainless steel with a day/date indicator, chronograph registers at 12 o’clock, six o’clock and nine o’clock, and a tachymeter scale. A rerelease of the timepiece was issued in late 2010.
Porsche Design Orfina 7176s worn in Top Gun
Photo: Courtesy of Porsche Design
Fun fact: A sequel titled Top Gun: Maverick is slated for release in 2020 with Tom Cruise and Val Kilmer reprising their roles as Maverick and Iceman, respectively. Maverick’s 2020 timepiece is currently still classified information, but Porsche Design would be wise to get in on the action again.
## Apollo 13 (1995): Tom Hanks, Omega Speedmaster
Tom Hanks in Apollo 13
Photo: Universal/Kobal/REX/Shutterstock
Tom Hanks appropriately wore an Omega Speedmaster while re-creating astronaut Jim Lovell’s ill-fated journey aboard Apollo 13, when an oxygen-tank leak caused the crew to abort their lunar mission and return to Earth in a harrowing an almost fatal experience. The Omega Speedmaster was the timepiece of choice by NASA for astronauts venturing into the new space frontier thanks to its ability to withstand intense sunlight, cold, and g-force. While it is most famous for having adorned the wrists and space suits of astronauts Buzz Aldrin, Neil Armstrong and Michael Collins for Apollo 11’s first lunar landing on July 20, 1969, it proved lifesaving for Apollo 13.
It was astronaut Jack Swigert’s Omega Speedmaster that saved the lives of everyone aboard Apollo 13. Once the spaceship lost power, the astronauts were only able to burn the engine for 14 seconds at a time to make navigational trajectory adjustments to return safely to Earth before turning it off. Lovell and his fellow astronauts used Swigert’s Omega Speedmaster chronograph to measure the short intervals of time. Houston, problem solved.
Snoopy Edition of the Omega Speedmaster from Apollo 13
Photo: Courtesy of Omega
In 1970, Omega was awarded NASA’s Silver Snoopy Award—one of the greatest honours the space program can bestow on employees and contractors for outstanding achievements related to human flight safety and mission success—for safely bringing the astronauts of Apollo 13 back to Earth. In 2015, Omega unveiled a Snoopy edition of the Omega Speedmaster, featuring a rendering of the famous Peanuts character on a dial counter and on the caseback, to commemorate its historic role for the 45th anniversary of the Apollo 13 mission.
Snoopy Edition of the Omega Speedmaster from Apollo 13
Photo: Courtesy of Omega
Expect to see the Omega Speedmaster dominate the big screen again this year in Damien Chazelle’s First Man- a biopic, set to debut in late 2019, in which Ryan Gosling takes on the role of Neil Armstrong.
## Blood Diamond (2006): Leonardo DiCaprio, Breitling Chrono Avenger
Leonardo DiCaprio wearing Breitling Chrono Avenger in Blood Diamond
Starring as Danny Archer, a gunrunner-turned-diamond-smuggler during the Sierra Leone Civil War, Leonardo DiCaprio sported a 44 mm titanium Breitling Chrono Avenger with a brown leather strap and black dial. DiCaprio is typically associated with TAG Heuer, for which he was a longtime brand ambassador, but the heavy-duty Breitling looked at home amidst all of the action in Blood Diamond. The Chrono Avenger accompanied Archer as he braved the conflict zones of the Sierra Leone to fight warlords and his former boss Colonel Coetzee, who was on the hunt for an elusive pink diamond that Archer is ordered to deliver.
Breitling Chrono Avenger worn in Blood Diamond
Photo: Courtesy of Breitling
## Casino Royale (2006): Daniel Craig Omega Seamaster Professional
Daniel Craig wearing Omega Seamaster in Casino Royale
Photo: Susie Allnutt. CASINO ROYALE © 2006 Danjaq, LLC and United Artists Corporation. All rights reserved.
Pierce Brosnan first wore an Omega Seamaster with a blue dial as James Bond in 1995’s GoldenEye, thanks to Oscar-winning costume designer Lindy Hemming. Modern-day James Bond Daniel Craig followed suit, but he wore not one but two Omega Seamasters—the Seamaster Diver 300M Co-Axial and a Planet Ocean 600M Co-Axial—in his 2006 debut as the big screen’s most famous spy in Casino Royale. In one scene, when Bond encounters Vesper Lynd (Eva Green), she sizes him up, taking careful note of his watch. “MI6 looks for maladjusted young men that give little thought to sacrificing others in order to protect Queen and country . . . you know, former SAS types with easy smiles and expensive watches. Rolex?” she asks him, eyeing his watch. “Omega,” replies Bond.
Embedded content: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oB5hzlDe10c&feature=youtu.be
In 2008’s Quantum Solace, Craig wore a Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Omega Co-Axial with a classic black dial and bezel, and in 2012’s Skyfall, 007 relied on a Planet Ocean 600M and an Aqua Terra, both powered by Omega co-axial calibers.
Omega Seamaster worn in Skyfall
Photo: Courtesy of Omega
In Craig’s most recent turn as James Bond in 2015’s Spectre, he again wears a Seamaster as he takes on global crime boss Blofeld (Christopher Waltz). A limited-edition 300 Spectre watch (around $10,600) with a rare lollipop seconds hand worn on a handsome black-and-gray NATO strap and the Omega Aqua Terra 150m with a blue dial accompanied Bond on his latest MI6 mission.
Omega Seamaster 300 Spectre Limited Edition
Photo: Courtesy of Omega
And based on the latest teasers for 2019’s Bond 25, it looks like Craig will be wearing an Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Co-Axial Master Chronometer in steel (around $9300).
## The Expendables I (2010): Sylvester Stalone, Panerai PAM 332
Sylvester Stallone wearing Panerai PAM 332 in The Expendables
Photo: Karen Ballard
When Panerai launched the commercial production its watches for the public in 1993, just two years later Sylvester Stallone spotted a Luminor in Rome and purchased it to wear in his movie Daylight, effectively putting Panerai on the map. A known Panerai collector ever since, Sly wore a PAM 332 in the first installment of The Expendables, featuring an impressive lineup of tough-guy A-listers that effectively saw the revival of Stallone’s image as the ultimate action hero (incredibly, Sly was 63 at the time the film was released).
Panerai PAM 332 worn in the Expendables
Photo: Courtesy of Panerai
The Panerai Luminor 1950 Regatta Rattrapante that adorns Sly’s wrist is a 44mm timepiece—an oversized watch to match his oversized, vein-popping, 41-centimetre biceps. Limited to 500 pieces, the split-second chronograph timepiece comes in a case with a DLC treatment and features the Panerai OP XVIII calibre. It also comes equipped with an Incabloc anti-shock device—which comes in handy when you’re a professional ass-kicker.
## The Expendables 2 (2012): Jason Statham, Sylvester Stallone PAM 382 Bronzo
The Expendables 2 – 2012
Millennium Films/Kobal/REX/Shutt
Following in Sly’s steps, Jason Statham wears a 47 mm Panerai PAM 382 Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo in The Expendables 2. Supporting actors Randy Couture, Dolph Lundgren, and Terry Crews also don the PAM 382—although the watch is featured most prominently on both Stallone and Statham. While the PAM 382 Bronzo didn’t help the Expendables take down any henchmen, its rusty patina and 47mm case certainly looked the part.
Panerai PAM 382 Luminor Submersible worn in the Expendables II
Photo: Courtesy of Panerai
The special-edition dive watch, released in 2011, is known for its brushed-bronze case and is powered by Panerai’s p.9000 in-house calibre. The automatic movement features a 72-hour power reserve and has been used in both the Panerai Luminor 1950 and Radiomir models. Just 1000 of the PAM 382 Bronzo were ever made, and they’ve since become collector’s items.
## The Expendables III (2014): Sylvester Stallone, Richard Mille RM 032
Sylvester Stallone wearing Richard Mille in The Expendables III
Photo: REX/Shutterstock
In the third installment of The Expendables, villain Conrad Stonebanks (Mel Gibson) is back to destroy the Expendables, and the only way for Barney Ross (Sylvester Stallone) to take down Stonebanks is with fresh recruits. Ross assembles a new crew of tech-savvy youngbloods—former U.S. Marine John Smilee (Kellan Lutz), nightclub bouncer Luna (Ronda Rousey), computer expert Thorn (Glen Powell) and weapons expert Mars (Victor Ortiz)—to battle the old-school Stonebanks.
Richard Mille RM 032 worn in the Expendables III
Photo: Courtesy of Richard Mille
For his latest turn as Barney Ross, Stallone chose to wear a Richard Mille—a watchmaker known for blending old-world watchmaking expertise with new-world technical innovation. Sly’s Mille of choice was the Richard Mille RM 032, a skeletonised dive watch complete with a flyback chronograph and annual calendar. You might think that a watch costing around $180,000 would be too precious to brave explosions, heavy-duty combat fire, runaway trains, parkour-style building jumps and pretty much every stunt you could ever dream up, but only a 50mm titanium piece at 17.80mm thick such as this could handle that kind of action on Sly’s pumped-up wrists.
Stallone announced he was leaving the franchise—which has grossed around $1.14 billion at the box office—and not returning for a fourth instalment despite a lucrative pay deal, according to Deadline.
Ensuring that he and Richard Mille would still see some action together, Stallone and the watchmaker recently unveiled the ultimate survivalist timepiece, the RM 25-01, which comes with a tourbillon, a mountable compass, a level and a cache of water-purification tablets, retailing for somewhere in the region of $1.4 million.
## Argo (2012): Ben Affleck, Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller
Ben Affleck wearing the Rolex Deepsea Seadweller in Argo
Photo: Claire Folger, © 2012 Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc.
Did you spot the time traveller in Argo? When Ben Affleck was directing his Oscar Award–winning film, he probably didn’t have a lot of time on his hands to dial in on what kind of timepiece he was going to wear and how it would fit into the film. Watch enthusiasts balked when the actor wore a modern-day Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller (the model was first introduced in 2008) on the big screen as Tony Mendez, the extractor called upon by the US government to rescue 66 American hostages from the US embassy in Tehran in 1979. “Pretty nifty for a spy in ’79 to ’80 to have a watch that won’t come out for 30 years,” said one commenter on Rolexforums. “Still better than a Daytona in ancient Rome!” read another. The latter is a reference to a famous blooper in the 1959 epic drama Ben Hur, in which a Roman chariot driver can be seen wearing a wristwatch . . . in AD 26.
Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller worn in Argo
Photo: Courtesy of Rolex
But all jokes aside, Affleck’s Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller is still a handsome timepiece—albeit being a dive watch in a film that has nothing to do with the sea.
## Kingsman: The Secret Service (2014): Bremont Kingsman Special Editions
Colin Firth wearing Bremont in Kingsman: The Secret Service
Director Matthew Vaughn’s first installment in the Kingsman franchise saw its special agents dapperly dressed in the best of the best of British attire—the original Kingsman is about a spy network whose front is a high-class London tailor’s shop. Scenes from the movie include shots at Huntsman on Savile Row. So it was only natural that Vaughn sought out British watchmaker Bremont for timepieces to be worn by his leading men. For the film, Bremont developed three new special-edition Kingsman watches—a world timer (worn by Kingsman agents Colin Firth and Michael Caine), a DLC model worn by apprentice agent Eggsy (Taron Egerton) and a steel world timer for Kingsman’s head of new recruits (Mark Strong). While the placement of the watches in the film were unpaid, the British watchmaker was so closely connected to the film that Vaughn even invited Bremont cofounder Nick English for a brief guest appearance in the film as a Kingsman agent.
Co-founder of Bremont Nick English had a cameo in Kingsman: The Secret Service
Photo: Courtesy of Bremont
Stay tuned for the next Bremont appearance in an action film this Autumn, when it appears on the wrist of Tom Hardy in Ruben Fleischer’s Venom. The nose of one of Nick English’s vintage planes has already been painted with a WWII-fighter-plane-inspired “Venom face” by a Marvel artist to celebrate the next big-screen Bremont debut.
Taron Egerton and Michael Caine wearing Bremont in Kingsman: The Secret Service
## Doctor Strange (2016): Benedict Cumberbatch, Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual
Benedict Cumberbatch as Doctor Strange wearing Jaeger-LeCoultre
Before Benedict Cumberbatch’s character Dr. Stephen Strange morphs into a superhero in the secret realm of Kamar-Taj, he is a world-famous neurosurgeon who is robbed of his career when a car accident deprives him of the use of his hands. On that fateful night, the distinguished Dr. Strange is seen wearing his Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual, which he carries with him into the dimension of Kamar-Taj. The slim 9.2mm stainless-steel perpetual calendar features the day of the week at nine o’clock, the calendar at three o’clock, and the month at six o’clock. The timepiece also features a moonphase at 12 o’clo
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Perpetual in Doctor Strange
But it’s the watch’s inscription that ultimately reminds Dr. Strange of his earthly origins. Inscribed on its caseback is a message from Dr. Strange’s love interest, Christine (played by Rachel McAdams). “Time will tell you how much I love you, Christine,” it reads.
## Spider-Man: Homecoming (2017): Robert Downey Jr., Urwerk UR-110RG
Robert Downey Jr. wearing Urwerk UR-110RG at the Spider-Man: Homecoming premiere
Photo: John Salangsang/REX/Shutterstock
Robert Downey Jr. is not only renowned for his epic film career, but also for being a true watch aficionado. His collection includes everything from a Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT (worn in Iron Man 2) and an Omega Speedmaster Moon Professional to a Rolex GMT Master II “Ghost” customised by Bamford Watch Department and a Bell & Ross BR 01-94 Titanium Orange (gifted to him by Ben Stiller after wrapping Tropic Thunder), to name just a few. But his biggest blockbuster was his Urwerk UR-110RG, which he wore as Iron Man in the Marvel Comics film Spider-Man: Homecoming.
The watch, hand-selected by the actor, was chosen to accompany Iron Man on his mission to combat evil. The company initially turned down Downey Jr.’s inquiry about the watch, suspecting they had received a prank call. But the star ultimately used his real-life superpowers to procure the timepiece for his on-set wardrobe.
It was the perfect instrument for Tony Stark aka Iron Man, the billionaire business magnate and inventor-turned-superhero. Crafted from lightweight titanium with an asymmetrical 18-karat rose-gold bezel, the watch presented a radical new way of telling time when it was first introduced in 2011. A rotating cube and orbiting satellite tell the time instead of traditional hands and markers, while a “control” board indicates night and day and an “oil change” indicator signals when the watch needs to be serviced.
In a real-life superhero move, Downey Jr. sold the watch at auction in May at Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction: Seven for 150,000 CHF (around $210,000) to benefit Manusodany, a nonprofit that funds development projects in Haiti.
## Atomic Blonde (2017): Charlize Theron and James McEvoy, Carl F. Bucherer
Charlize Theron wearing Carl F. Bucherer in Atomic Blonde
Photo: J Prime/Focus Features/Kobal/REX/Shutterstock
Spoiler alert: While most watch brands’ only role in films is to adorn the wrists of the leading characters, Carl F. Bucherer was the leading character of Atomic Blonde. When Charlize Theron, as MI5 agent Lorraine Broughton, goes undercover in Berlin to investigate the murder of a fellow agent and recover a missing list of double agents, it’s a Carl F. Bucherer Manero CentralChrono worn by Sam Hargrave as James Gascoigne that ultimately conceals the coveted list.
But the watchmaker doesn’t just see the spotlight at the big reveal at the conclusion of the film. Theron gets a Manero Mabu, which she purchases from a Carl F. Bucherer watchmaker (played by Til Schweiger) who takes apart the timepiece to insert a coordinates tracker. Meanwhile, Theron’s character wears a Manero AutoDate with diamonds while taking down villains as a bleach-blonde femme fatale.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero AutoDate worn in Atomic Blonde
Photo: Courtesy of Carl F. Bucherer
Director and stuntman David Leitch, a fan and brand ambassador of Carl F. Bucherer, also worked with the Swiss watchmaker during the making of his films John Wick and John Wick: Chapter 2.
## Dunkirk (2017): Tom Hardy, Omega CK2129
The Omega CK2129 worn in Dunkirk
Photo: Courtesy of Omega
An authentic vintage Omega CK2129 accompanied Tom Hardy in his role as a British Royal Air Force (RAF) pilot in Christopher Nolan’s Dunkirk, which tells the story of the evacuation of 330,000 French, British, Belgian and Dutch soldiers from a German advance on the beaches of Dunkirk in May of 1940. In real life, approximately more than 110,000 pilot, navigator and soldier watches were delivered by Omega during World War II to Great Britain’s Military of Defence to support its air force and navy pilots during service.
Vintage Omega ad
Photo: Courtesy of Omega
The CK2129 was a useful tool for the RAF thanks to its unique rotating bezel enabling the timing of specific intervals, particularly during bombing raids. The bezel also featured a lock through its second crown so it wouldn’t be affected during accidental knocks. The timepiece’s cream dial with Arabic numerals and poire dials were ideal at the time for visibility.
Roughly 2000 CK2129 models were delivered to the British Ministry of Defence at the beginning of World War II.
## Batman Franchise: Val Kilmer, Christian Bale, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso; Ben Affleck, Breguet
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso worn in the Batman movies
Photo: Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre
Bruce Wayne aka Batman first wore a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso timepiece in 1995 when Joel Schumacher first directed Val Kilmer in the iconic role. While not nearly as futuristic as Batman’s other toys, the Reverso’s flip face mirrors Batman’s dual personality.
Christian Bale wearing Jaeger-LeCoultre as Bruce Wayne
Photo: Courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre
Christian Bale solidified the relationship between Jaeger-LeCoultre and Batman when he wore three different Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso timepieces throughout all of the Dark Knight trilogy films directed by Christopher Nolan. For The Dark Knight Rises, Jaeger-LeCoultre created a special-edition Grande Reverso Ultra-Thin Tribute to 1931, which featured the black Batman symbol on the steel caseback, which can be flipped over and worn as the face.
Ben Affleck wearing Breguet Tradition Fusee Tourbillon 7047PT as Bruce Wayne
Ben Affleck, however, did an about-face in his turn as Bruce Wayne in 2016’s Batman vs. Superman by wearing a tony Breguet Tradition Fusee Tourbillon 7047PT in platinum (around $270,000). While it was certainly a departure from tradition, it was a fitting choice for an action hero masquerading as a billionaire philanthropist, complete with a butler named Alfred Pennyworth.
The Breguet Tradition Fusee Tourbillon 7047PT worn in Batman vs. Superman
Photo: Courtesy of Breguet
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The Woman Behind the Hermès Man
For 36 years, Véronique Nichanian has supplied the exacting creative vision for the storied French house’s menswear. Her secret: navigating the space between fashion and style.
There are six large jars in Véronique Nichanian’s office, lined up in a row near her desk, where, during idle moments, she can look up and ponder their contents. They’re stuffed with brightly coloured bits of fabric—one has various shades of blue, another yellows, the next greens. They’re mood jars, of sorts. Nichanian is obsessed with textiles and colour, and these vessels, she says, have been with her for years. She pulls a clump of thread from one as if it’s a jewel, and in a sense, it is. If these are the palettes that excite her—a woman with immaculate taste, a fastidious eye and ranging curiosity, who has remained perched atop the menswear tree for nearly four decades at one of France’s finest luxury maisons—then they are special stuff indeed.
Nichanian is artistic director of the Hermès men’s universe, a bombastic title with a somewhat more prosaic explanation, which is that she oversees all the menswear stuff—clothes, bags, shoes, accessories and the like. But it’s how she has done this that intrigues. She’s been dressing chic Parisian males and their counterparts around the globe for 36 years and is the longest-serving creative director in fashion who doesn’t have her name above the shop. Only the Ralphs and the Giorgios have been designing in one place for longer.
Alfredo Piola
But in a sense, Nichanian has also done what they’ve done. When she was appointed by Hermès to take over its menswear division back in 1988, the brand was in the midst of a reinvention by Jean-Louis Dumas, great-great-grandson of founder Thierry Hermès, and was not the pinnacle of aspiration that it is today. Nichanian didn’t lay the foundation at Hermès, but she can claim to have built the temple of its contemporary menswear business brick by brick, starting at a time before GPS, Pretty Woman and the World Wide Web.
She has done it with a keen understanding of what fashionable men want. “I’m so demanding when working on the clothes,” she says. “It’s not my job to make fashion and a beautiful photo,” she adds, alluding to the elaborate ad campaigns that punctuate the conversation multiple times a year at other labels. “A beautiful fashion photo does not mean beautiful clothes.”
Alfredo Piola
Every morning, on the walk to her office inside company headquarters, Nichanian passes glassed-in workshops through which she can see artisans manipulating the famous Hermès leather, using tools and blades as much as machines to do so. Natural light floods the workspaces; once the light goes, I was told, the workers knock off for the day. “What I like about Hermès is it’s a house that’s very open-minded, where the craft is seen, where things are done by the hand,” she says.
“As a designer, I’m totally free to do what I want—there’s no marketing person, nobody telling me I have to do some ties or shoes,” she continues. “At Hermès, I express a modern way for a man to dress. He likes beautiful things, beautiful material. And he understands why it’s costly. It’s not expensive—we’re not talking about price. I choose the best material, the best cashmere and the best manufacturer, and at the end of that, it’s costly. But not because I put a big logo on it. And I like this man because he understands that. He knows himself.”
Hermès is most famous for its ornate silk scarves and handbags so scarce and desirable they can sell on the secondary market for hundreds of thousands. But certain menswear items deserve equal billing. Under Nichanian, the house’s leatherwear has become essential, and I admit to spending far more time than strictly necessary trying on a silky taupe-gray suede overshirt in the Paris store beneath its headquarters on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. The label has been lauded in these pages (it’s won multiple Best of the Best awards) for both its outerwear and bags, but the quality of fabrication of its knitwear and shirting is equally strong.
Alfredo Piola
“Hermès is a very French house,” Nichanian says. “The sophistication I have, it’s very Parisian. It’s very sophisticated how the French man puts things together. But since the beginning, it’s a casual house. I know how to do a beautiful suit, but what is very difficult is to define the way to dress casual and very chic. I don’t want to be classical or traditional, and I don’t want to be fashion at all. I want to be on the verge.”
A pile of iconic orange Hermès boxes provides a splash of colour in a corner of her office; behind the door, on a wall, there’s a collage of photographs of famous friends: French president Emmanuel Macron; a number of young sportsmen; and a familiar face from the art world—David Hockney. “Yes, that was a big meeting,” she says with a smile. “He’s really funny. I asked him, which I never asked anybody in my life, ‘Can we make a picture together?’ When I came back, I designed a sweater and sent it to him.” The picture is of the artist, with a striped cashmere rugby shirt, looking absolutely delighted.
For many of us, wardrobe MVPs come in navy, gray, white and black. But the Hermès man is often to be seen sporting pops of colour that add interest without overwhelming—a striped belt, say, or an accent on a collar or hem. For spring-summer ’25, which showed in Paris a few days before our conversation, Nichanian sent out a procession of complementary, youthful separates that epitomise casual chic. Short-sleeve shirts in an openwork cotton knit with contrasting collar and placket matched with roomy straight-legged pants. A cocoa blouson in a pique canvas over light-blue cotton drill trousers. Simple but elegant shirting and a number of exquisite leather jackets, one in ecru calfskin, another in a barely-there blue glacier. With Hermès, the details are all-important—the proportions of the collar, the extended shoulder that provides the drape. Easy to miss but integral to the effect.
Alfredo Piola
Nichanian prides herself on such minutiae, designed to make a statement to no one other than the wearer. “I want to make selfish clothes,” she says. “When you touch them and feel the material, you say, ‘Oh, my God’. That feeling is for you first.” She’s talking about up-close aspects such as a pocket indulgently lined with lambskin or a seemingly regular cotton-poplin shirt with the hand feel of silk. Or take the sweatshirt, shirt and T-shirt that opened this collection’s show, featuring what looked like an artist’s pencil sketch of a horse. The catch: all the garments are made of calfskin, and the lines seem almost rubberised to the touch.
The designer’s other favourites include shirts, shorts, pants and bombers featuring Hermès’ iconic “L’Instruction du Roy” print of equestrian details and floral motifs, penned last century by designer Henri d’Origny and made famous on its silk scarves. The theme of this section was an evening beach party, and the twist was that the graphic print ran off the clothing and appeared tattooed onto the chests, arms and legs of the models. You could see it as the sartorial equivalent of the inside-outside movement in interior design, as the dialogue between the body and the clothes you wear becomes more integrated and fluid. The tattoos were temporary, of course, and Nichanian tried one herself before subjecting the models to them. “It stayed for five days,” she says, impressed. (And no, they’re not for sale.)
Alfredo Piola
She says she still gets nervous before a show, because each collection is the manifestation of a particular idea, and capturing the essence of that idea never gets easier. “The difficult point is to know when to stop—with so many ideas, you can make many different shows,” she says with a rueful smile. “So you have to say, ‘Okay, I want to say that’. And this is my starting point, and this is exactly the collection I have in my head. Sometimes I know exactly what I want to do since the beginning. But sometimes I change my mind: a week before one show, I said we’re going to change the ending. There’s not a recette, as we say in French—a recipe.”
Nichianian is 70, not that you’d guess it. Petite and elegant in a simple black-and-white outfit with funky accessories, she has a quiet intensity but eyes that smile often. She speaks English in a thick accent, with an occasional, rapid burst of her native tongue to make a larger point.
“I said to my parents when I was 15, ‘I want to work with clothes.’ She studied at Paris’s elite École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, where she graduated top of her class, then joined Nino Cerruti as a stylist on his menswear line. Cerruti is credited with helping define the Italian tailoring tradition of a lighter, looser silhouette, and his take influenced many—not least Giorgio Armani, who was there in the ’60s. At Cerruti, Nichanian developed her love of tailoring and particularly of cloth, partnering with Italian mills to refine their materials to her standards. “I remember when I started working, the fabrics were so heavy and everything was so stiff,” she says. She eventually left to join Hermès, enticed by the promise that she could make menswear according to her own vision. Thirty-six years later, that vision remains.
Alfredo Piola
She has a small team of eight, some of whom have been with her for 10 or 15 years. Is she a good boss? Well, she says, she knows her team likes to work with her “because they write to me and say, ‘We don’t want to be with Hermès, we want to be with you.’ And I love that.”
She describes the office environment as “very democratic”, despite her strong instincts. “We discuss. And sometimes I say, ‘Yes, you’re right, I was wrong. Let’s make it different.’ When I know what I want, I go straight. But when I ask my team, I follow their advice.”
Younger members hit the clubs of the French capital, for which she’s grateful, as while she’s not interested in following trends, she does want to remain au courant. “This is not my life anymore, going to a party every night,” she says. (She prefers the cinema.) “So I say, ‘Okay, what’s going on?’ And when I travel, to Japan or New York or LA, I bring two of them each time, and it’s fun. I have the maturity. I know exactly what Hermès is because I built it for 36 years. But working together, they’re listening to me, I listen to them. The world is changing very fast, and I like that. It’s very exciting.”
Alfredo Piola
There must be a temptation to put her feet up, to spend more time with her husband at their house in the South of France? She says no. “I’m very proud to have good reviews and good sales after 36 years. So I will continue. If I’m bored—it could happen tomorrow or in 10 years—I will say, ‘Okay, let’s do something different.’ I don’t have a plan. I’m never looking back, because I think it’s sad, and I don’t have any regrets. I’m very happy in my life. As a creative person, working at Hermès is a dream—and it’s the dream of many people outside. So I’ll let you know.”
A Brief Chronology of Hermès
1837: Thierry Hermès moves to Paris and founds his harness-making workshop.
1853-70: The city’s new wide boulevards, designed by Baron Haussmann, enable Parisians to parade around in their finery and show off their elaborate carriages, which is very good for business.
1880: Thierry’s son, Charles-Émile, adds saddles to the mix and moves the store and workshop to the now-iconic address of 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré.
1902: Customers request something to carry their saddles and riding boots, and the Haut à Courroies bag is born, along with the brand as we know it today.
1916: Émile, one of Charles-Émile’s sons, visits North America, where he’s introduced to the zipper (then called the close-all) and sees the future. Émile secures an exclusive license in France, where the invention is dubbed the Hermès fastener. Seven years later, the company files a patent for the use of zippers in leather goods.
1925: After a client reportedly complains, “I am fed up with seeing my horse better dressed than me,” Hermès creates its first men’s ready-to-wear garment—a golf jacket.
1928: Watches are added to the growing array of goods.
1930: Hermès enters the US market in partnership with Neiman Marcus.
1942: The soon-to-be-iconic Hermès orange box is introduced.
1949: The atelier produces its first tie.
1967: The H-belt, which will come to encircle the waists of the world’s best-dressed men, arrives.
1977: In a possibly apocryphal story, consultants recommend that Hermès follow the Gucci model: close the atelier and lower the price point. In response, Hermès institutes a company-wide ban on consultants, said to be enforced to this day.
2015: The Apple Watch Hermès is announced.
2024: With the reopening of the Melbourne, Australia, store, Hermès has 303 shops in 45 countries—and counting.
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Capella Singapore Gave Its Residence-Like Bungalows a Makeover
The Capella Manor and the two Colonial Manors have been updated with vintage furniture and cozy touches.
The bungalows at Capella Singapore just got a major upgrade.
The singular Capella Manor and the two Colonial Manors at the five-star resort have undergone a full refresh. Designed to mimic a private residence, all three accommodations contain three ensuite bedrooms; separate living, dining, and study rooms; and a private terrace and pool.
“This redesign showcases Capella’s commitment to creating spaces that not only celebrate our heritage but also provide a warm and welcoming environment where guests can seamlessly transition their lifestyle from home to the manors,” Yngvar Stray, the general manager of Capella Singapore, said in a statement. “By incorporating personal touches and timeless furnishings, we invite guests to immerse themselves in a tranquil retreat that feels uniquely theirs.”
The Capella Manor has been done up by the interior decorator Simone Haag, who aimed for a contemporary-chic design. Throughout the manor, you’ll encounter neutral tones, subtly patterned wallpapers and fabrics, and foliage that nods to the property’s 30 acres of greenery.
The living room features a lantern that casts leafy shadows and a custom rug with notes of olive, off-white, and brown. Haag has also sourced vintage touches like a pair of Swedish carved monk chairs from the 1930s and woven Peanut chairs.
“Over many years, we have established a growing network of artists, makers, antique specialists, vintage traders and designers that spans the globe,” Haag said in a statement. “Drawing from this treasure trove, we can curate projects unlike anything seen before. At Capella Singapore, an evolving design and procurement methodology has shaped a meticulously layered manor where vintage pieces have been woven with custom contemporary rugs, furniture and commissioned artworks. This invaluable network brings agility, allowing for some beautiful outcomes that contribute to the manor’s ambience and memorability.”
As for the Colonial Manors, Matthew Shang Design Office has taken the lead. Upstairs, the Nest serves as a cozy living area, with a hand-knotted Persian rug, curated artworks, and tropical printed cushions.
Downstairs, the cozy vibes continue in the Nook alcove, while an outdoor dining area includes a barbecue and a dining table for up to six.
In all three spaces, you have access to a personalized host who can help organize activities like poolside picnics, dim sum masterclasses, and spa services. Plus, the property offers bespoke turndown service, as well as in-manor breakfast and a fridge full of Champagne and premium wines.
Rates for Capella Manor start at around $35,000 per night; rates for Colonial Manor start at around $29,000.
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Hooked on Caviar
Australians are fixated with the venerable sturgeon roe—thanks to experimental local chefs and quick “hits” in restaurants.
For a taste of pure luxury, caviar is an appetiser par excellence. And in Australia, our consumption of the sturgeon-procured delicacy has grown exponentially. Just ask Lisa Downs. At the dawn of the new millennia when the entrepreneur started her small-scale concern, she imported just 60 kilos of caviar a year. Now in 2024, demand is so buoyant, her business—which has since been acquired by Simon Johnson—brings in around three tons.
Consumption peaks in the early summer months and, according to Downs, continues through Chinese New Year and into the balmy nights of February. Often likened to the black pearl for its scarcity, and prized for its high oil, fat and salt content, the best quality caviar is almost always served before any other food has hit the tongue. Chefs will tell you the product pairs best with plain foods that allow caviar’s saltwater neutrality to breathe, but it can also enhance complex or crispy dishes with its creamy texture and subtle umami.
Following a worldwide ban in 2000 on fishing sturgeon for their roe, as the species neared extinction, the industry has adopted more ethical and sustainable practices to preserve fish stocks. These days, smaller but no less delicious quantities still originate from the prized waters of the Caspian and Black Sea, but high-calibre examples can also be found coming out of China, Spain, Italy, Iran, the UAE and even Australia (though locally, roe are collected from salmon or trout, as the sturgeon is considered a noxious species and production is prohibited.”
Caviar “bumps” are now offered at some of the country’s best seaside restaurants, including mimi’s in Coogee, Sydney, or Entrecôte in Prahran, Melbourne. A single hit of 10-20 grams is served from a tin resting on an iced bowl and the caviar is placed on the back of the hand using a spoon made of shell, horn or bone. The roe is supposed to rest between the index finger and the thumb, enabling it to warm to body temperature—and express its full flavour and quality—before it is consumed in a single kiss. True caviar devotees will then press the delicate eggs up into the roof of the mouth and inhale through their nostrils to capture the magical perfume. “One thing I love about caviar is that people don’t rush eating it,” says Downs. “With caviar people stop and enjoy the experience.”
At his modern Greek eateries in Sydney and Brisbane, executive chef Jonathan Barthelmess favours Yarra Valley caviar from Victoria served on top of a filo crisp with taramasalata. He opts for ethically farmed, sustainably produced pearls, which form the core of the lemony Greek dip which has become one of his signatures. By contrast, at home he serves malossol (low salt) Oscietra caviar in a simple fashion: “I like to keep it low key with sour cream and a packet of Pringles.”
In a similar vein, Mr. Wong chef Dan Hong also keeps things humble. “I like to have my caviar with either potato gems or hash browns, and a Japanese-style tartare sauce,” he says. “The difference being Japanese tartare has roughly chopped hard-boiled egg.”
At the other end of the gastronomic scale, chef Peter Gilmore of Quay and Bennelong fame doesn’t shy from the sultry indulgence of caviar. At the former, his house-made crumpets and caviar are lionised by patrons. Gilmore says the best way to enjoy the sea’s black gold is “with a glass of Champagne in one hand, and a caviar bump on the other.”
Whether you’re an inquisitive newbie or experienced buff, consider the words of Lisa Downs, who implores that everyone follows the golden rule of caviar connoisseurship. “Never order less than 30 grams for four people,” she says, “and remember to buy it, and consume the tin in one opening. Think of it like a bottle of Dom Pérignon. You don’t open a fine Champagne and then put the cork back in. The idea is that you open it, you celebrate it, and you drink the whole thing at once.” Welcome to your new obsession.
Shop Caviar for the holidays at Simon Johnson.
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The 7 Best Watches of the Week, From Pharrell Williams’ Richard Mille to Snoop Dog’s Cartier
Celebrity watch lovers were boxing, singing, and out at the movies this week in some stellar wristwear.
It doesn’t matter what you are doing or where you are going, a luxury timepiece will always up your style game as this week’s celebrities prove so elegantly. Let’s start with boxing and Jake Paul and Amanda Serrano, who popped their watches on—Jacob & Co’s Billionaire Ashoka and Rolex’s Day-Date 36 respectively—for the famous pre-fight weigh-in.
Elsewhere across the country, Snoop Dog, Giancarlo Esposito, and Jeff Goldblum were rocking timepieces from Cartier; John Legend was spotted on the piano wearing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph and Pharrell Williams was on TV flashing his Richard Mille UP-01 Ferrari.
Let’s take a closer look.
Pharrell Williams: Richard Mille
First we have Pharrell Williams who was seen this week wearing Richard Mille’s RM UP-01 Ferrari on Jimmy Fallon’s The Tonight Show. The musician and record producer has been wearing this watch a lot recently. It is the world’s thinnest mechanical wristwatch measuring just 1.75 mm thick, surpassing the previous record holder Bvlgari, and its Octo Finissimo Ultra (1.80 mm) by five tenths of a millimeter. No doubt a watchmaker somewhere is secretly plotting to break the record once more, but for now, Williams has the thinnest watch in the world! The RM UP 01 Ferrari will set you back $3,035,369.
Snoop Dog: Santos de Cartier
Cartier was also the choice for Snoop Dog this week who went to the premiere of Paramount Pictures’ Gladiator II in Los Angeles with his wife Shante Broadus. On his wrist, there was no mistaking the Santos de Cartier in stainless steel. This large model is powered by the automatic Caliber 1847 and comes with the Maison’s signature white dial, Roman numerals, blue hands, and seven-sided crown with a faceted synthetic spinel. The watch also comes with a “SmartLink” adjustment system and can be easily changed for a calfskin strap. This timepiece costs around $13,344.
John Legend: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph
Singing a brand-new song on Instagram this week, we couldn’t help but notice the rose gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph peeking out from under his peach-colored suit. Known for his impeccable sense of style, he is frequently seen wearing this timepiece with everything from jeans to a black tie. This model is powered by Audemars Piguet’s Caliber 2385 and comes with an integrated yellow gold bracelet, white Tapisserie dial, and that famous octagonal bezel. You can expect to pay $225,080 for this model.
Jake Paul: Jacob & Co. Billionaire Ashoka
Famous YouTuber and professional boxer Jake Paul was seen before his big Netflix fight against Mike Tyson last weekend wearing Jacob & Co.’s Billionaire Ashoka timepiece. This one-of-a-kind piece combines 260 carats of emerald-cut diamonds with a manual-winding mechanical skeletonized tourbillon movement. If you can look past the diamonds, you will notice that the finishing on the movement is particularly impressive with a mirror-polished upper cage and hand-beveled and hand-polished components. Other owners of similar Billionaire timepieces include Floyd Mayweather, Rick Ross, and DJ Khaled. Paul’s Billionaire Ashoka is valued at around $11 million.
Amanda Serrano: Rolex Day-Date 36
Professional boxer Amanda Serrano was also seen at the weigh-in for her fight with Katie Taylor last weekend wearing a yellow gold Rolex Day-Date 36. Serrano’s Rolex features the famous Rolex fluted bezel and President bracelet that make spotting this watch from a distance a cinch! Here’s a fun fact: The fluted bezel originally had a functional purpose as it was screwed onto the case to ensure the water resistance of the watch. The case back was also fluted for the same reason. Nowadays, it is purely an aesthetic feature and has become a signature element of the Day-Date. This timepiece can be purchased for around $70,000.
Giancarlo Esposito: Cartier Ballon Bleu
Actor Giancarlo Esposito was spotted this week at the 2024 Governors Awards in Hollywood wearing a stainless steel Cartier Ballon Bleu. Best known for playing Gus Fring in the drama series Breaking Bad, Esposito had paired the model with black tie attire for his night out at the awards. The Ballon Bleu comes in a variety of sizes and looking at Esposito’s photo, we are guessing that this is a 42 mm model. The Ballon Bleu is easily recognizable thanks to its signature blue sapphire cabochon crown within a protective metal arch and those famous Cartier Roman numerals. It is powered by an automatic movement and comes with a price tag of around $12,000.
Jeff Goldblum: Cartier Tank
Actor and producer Jeff Goldblum was at NBC this week wearing one of his favorite watches, the Cartier Tank. Best known for his roles in Jurassic Park, La Mouche, and The Grand Budapest Hotel, he is also known for his adventurous dress sense. The Cartier Tank, or Tank de Cartier to be precise, is quite a classic choice for the actor but it makes a statement. This model is the larger model in the line and is powered by a quartz movement. The timepiece is housed in a yellow gold case and comes with a white dial with black Roman numerals. You can expect to pay around $19,000 for this wristwatch.
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Seeking an Edge
Part James Bond lair, part luxe eco-lodge, Verbier’s gravity-defying Cabane Tortin brings the alpine drama.
For all its natural splendour and sweeping mountain vistas, Verbier has never really been a place one goes in search of solitude. It is to mountain exploration what the Côte d’Azur is to actual sailing—a place to get in touch with the outdoors and the off-piste, but with its selection of high-end eateries and luxe lodges, also one where you can keep the natural extremes of the Swiss Alps safely at arm’s length.
Come December, however, one pioneering chalet is set to provide a new outlet for the discerning and intrepid when it opens 3,000 m above the iconic resort village. Named Cabane Tortin after the glacier it overlooks, the chalet offers an experience that’s becoming increasingly rare in this part of the world: one of comfort through seclusion—with no luxury spared, of course.
“The altitude is unique by itself, but this was also the most inhospitable scenery I had ever visited,” says Snorre Stinessen, the architect tasked with bringing Cabane Tortin back to life. The site itself—a rocky, secluded outcrop perched dramatically just below the summit of Mont Fort—has been occupied since 1981, when members of a local ski club built a small lodge to provide basic shelter for climbers and skiers seeking the area’s off-piste delights. Snorre says it’s still the only part of the mountainside both protected and forgiving enough to inhabit year-round.
Building any structure, let alone a luxury eco-lodge, in such a setting required near-heroic feats of engineering and execution. The building, made entirely of locally sourced stone and timber, used the foundations of the former hut for convenience and sustainability. Power comes via in-built solar and a sustainable pellet burner, while water flows directly into the property from a nearby mountain spring.
Naturally, its dramatic locale already draws comparisons to a Bond villain’s lair, but the fireplaces and lashings of warm wood inside quickly betray a space designed to be far cosier.
Even for Stinessen, having honed his craft building in the frozen extremes of his native Norway, Cabane Tortin presented more than its fair share of challenges. Once completed, the chalet would have to withstand regular gales equivalent to a Category 3 hurricane and more than a ton of snow load per square metre of space it occupied. “It’s hard to put into words how it came to life, other than from trying to find my own approach through a combination of patience, instinct and respect,” he says.
The final result appears to hover on the very precipice of the valley below—a huge cantilever facade providing the focal point both inside and out as its vista sweeps over the Tortin Glacier. A bench runs the length of the window in the main living area, sitting on which makes one feel as if they’re defying gravity as the terrain drops away underneath them. “Sit and look out; it feels as if the landscape is all yours,” says Stinessen.
The rear windows of the building, purposely slanted upwards rather than out, guide the view of those inside up the jagged outcrops of Mont Fort’s mountainside. “The idea was to invite the skies above in, to emphasise the feeling of floating between earth and sky,” adds Stinessen,
The chalet’s visual impact is matched only by the level of hospitality to be found inside. Manager Matthew Burnford and his team have curated an experience combining the personalised service of a five-star retreat with a sense of elevated hygge befitting the chalet’s Scandi design language and frozen outlook. The main guest area of the chalet, taking up the entirety of its two levels, comfortably sleeps eight.
Another eight can be accommodated downstairs in the adjoining Bivouac des Gentianes—a boujee ski lodge that, due to local laws, has to be made publicly available when the main property isn’t occupied. Also designed by Storre and offered with the option of a chef, there are far worse places to wait out a storm.
Visitors, naturally, are encouraged to explore the surrounds, with ski-in, ski-out access to the glacier’s ungroomed trails and powder fields during the winter, and a healthy bevy of equipment available at one’s leisure. Cable cars provide access to and from the neighbouring villages of Verbier and Nendaz, while a private chef and two live-in staff ensure that ski expeditions, lazy days indoors and all adventures in between are appropriately catered for. The cabin’s ease-of access also means that in-chalet spa treatments can be booked as requested.
Clearly, then, Cabane Tortin is designed, more than any of other Verbier’s luxury lodges, to feel like a true home away from home. All the mod cons, however, melt away when you stand at the edge of its sweeping facade and experience the chalet’s crown jewel: a view that feels, if only for a fleeting moment, as if this small corner of the mountains entirely belongs to you.
Stays from around $105,000 for three nights, full board; cabanetortin.com
