Pinnacle Of Perfection

Welcome to Austria’s largest ski region, the Arlberg —a heady and decadent European playground.

By Bronwen Gora 28/12/2022

It’s 11am and already skiers sip bright-orange glasses of branded spritz at slope-side bars in the sun. The joy of the late season is rippling through the Arlberg, blizzards replaced by blue skies while deep winter snow still blankets the 300 kilometres of slopes on offer, renowned as playgrounds of the rich and royal.

Long sunny days reveal spectacular alpine panoramas to their fullest as skiers look to cruise and navigate for kilometres via the 88 lifts and extensive network of runs that seamlessly link the villages of St. Anton, Stuben, St. Christoph, Lech and Zurs.

The allure of Austria’s biggest ski district, comes wrapped in alpine mystique—the area is hailed as the birthplace of modern skiing, and boasts some of the most magnificent on-and-off- piste terrain in the Alps. Now the world’s fifth largest ski region, the Arlberg has amassed a list of attributes that set it apart as one of the most appealing in the world.

Skiing the renowned slopes at St. Anton

ON THE MAP

It was in the Arlberg hamlet of Stuben in 1912 that teenage farmer Hannes Schneider invented the parallel ski technique that’s still taught today. He then opened the first ski school in Zurs in 1921—and soon, learning to ski became the height of European fashion. Schneider later exported “the Arlberg technique” abroad, while back home, enterprising locals made skis, clothes and boots to cater for an influx of visitors that included some of Europe’s most wealthy and powerful. By the 1930s, the former farming community’s fortunes had changed forever.

Nearly a century later, the region retains an historic charm like few other snowy European ski hubs—a large part of its appeal coming from having eschewed major hotel chains and other hallmarks of modern ski resorts to retain a local identity, one underpinned by a wealth of family-run establishments.

SOPHISTICATED ENCLAVES

The formula has won the villages of Lech and Zurs, in particular, an enviable list of clientele—the privacy offered by the remote yet sophisticated enclaves is priceless. Between them, the two villages have the highest concentration of four- and five-star hotels in the European Alps. Shared histories between hoteliers have seen generations of return guests, many royals among them. Until Covid came, the Dutch royal family had not skipped a Lech winter vacation in 60 years. Princess Caroline of Monaco is another regular, while Princess Diana famously holidayed in Lech and taught sons William and Harry to ski here.

Enchanting Stuben after sundown

Still, the vibe remains low-key—streets lined with rustic chalets, a regular small- town bakery, the Backstube Café, on
the main street. Lech’s most revered establishment is Hotel Post, a former 1930s post office that today stands as a five-star Relais & Châteaux property; a place where men are encouraged to sport jackets for dinner. Third-generation owner and general manager Florian Moosbrugger presides over the expanded, richly decorated hotel, built around the original building’s structure.

“We offer a very intimate and discreet atmosphere—always have,” offers Moosbrugger. “This has grown organically. You cannot plant an old tree.”

This is most evident in the traditional Austrian décor that adorns the Post’s corridors, public areas and its 46 finely appointed rooms and suites of which no two are the same. All designed by the Moosbrugger family, expect ornate interiors of colourful antiques, and four poster or king beds intricately painted with folk art. The Post’s suites are among the Arlberg’s most generous, with the superior Kaiser Suite offering 114 square metres of opulence that includes a private sauna.

Gertrud Schneider, daughter of Othmar Schneider who won Austria’s first Olympic gold medal for skiing in 1952, is another to successfully transform her family’s historic chalet into an alluring five- star establishment, Kristiania. Yet the ebullient hotelier has swapped rusticity for modernity, the hotel awash with playful contemporary art and riotously coloured furniture evoking the feel of an eclectic ’60s mansion. Artists are often in residence and exhibitions held. Somewhat of a walking artwork herself, Ms Schneider’s favourite guest room is the Puccini Suite, a cosy two-level apartment on the top floor with magical views of Lech. Here guests are delighted to find complementary Bollinger on ice as they step into the suite’s lounge room, and upstairs, vases of tulips by the ensuite’s spa and king-sized bed.

Traditional bedroom suite at Hotel Post

A few doors from Hotel Post on Lech’s main street is another Arlberg diamond— the seven-level Strolz Sport and Fashion House. Skiing’s equivalent to shopping on Fifth Avenue or the Champs Élysées, the elegant boutique offers the world’s largest range of designer skiwear bearing the names Bogner, Fendi, Moschino, Bottega, Burberry, Versace and more. You can
also secure a pair of coveted handmade Strolz ski boots, or simply sip cocktails at the store’s elegant second floor bar.

Ultimately, the Arlberg would not have developed such an allure were it not for the blessing of epic terrain. The entire lift network is skiable on one ski pass, and the lengthy season runs from December through to April. Slopes are a perfect balance of easy cruisers, intermediate runs, steeps and off-piste, with stunning views across Europe’s highest peaks found from its highest point, the 2,809 metre Valluga.

To say one skis regularly at St. Anton, the largest, liveliest and sportiest Arlberg village, is indeed a badge of pride.

BEST CHEFS, BIGGEST CELLARS

The high quality of the area’s restaurants is equal to its luxury lodgings. The small patch occupied by Lech, Zurs, Zug and Stuben contains Austria’s highest concentration of top-end dining options, many in possession of Gault & Millau torques (think localised Michelin stars).

Tucked away in the middle of the charming hamlet of Stuben is one of the Arlberg’s most exceptional finds, the Foxbau Restaurant. The modern eatery, housed in a century-old building, more than lives up to its hefty three torques. Foxbau’s menu spoils for choice with crayfish to coq au vin, and is the only place to find saibling, a rare local freshwater fish with exquisitely delicate flesh which matches perfectly with the 2017 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd from Wachau on the Foxbau wine list.

Foxbau, one of the Arlberg’s most acclaimed restaurants.

A few valleys away is the tiny village of Zug, a pretty yet unassuming assortment of just over a dozen buildings clinging
to a hillside. Among them is the renowned Rote Wand restaurant, discreetly situated inside the village’s former 18th-century schoolhouse. Rote Wand has long figured among Austria’s best fine-dining establishments, and many top Austrian and European chefs have run the kitchen.

The latest is 28-year-old wunderkind Julian Stieger, who took the helm in October. Already a veteran of 2 and 3 star Michelin restaurant kitchens, he came to Rote Wand from Copenhagen’s 3 Michelin- star Geranium, a restaurant Michelin also happens to rank as Europe’s best. His move to Rote Wand was noted by observers as ambitious, stepping as he has into the shoes of Austria’s most acclaimed chef, Max Natmessnig. Stieger must now rise to the challenge of catering to one or two sittings a day of 14 diners who book months in advance to experience first-class cuisine in a location so remote it is only accessible on skis most of winter.

Elsewhere, in the Arlberg’s most elevated village of St. Christoph, lies Hospiz Alm restaurant. Aim for the award-winning platters of schnitzel (true) and piping hot kaiserschmarrn—a famous Austrian dessert of warm shredded pancake served fresh in the frypan with jam and cream. Claiming a table on the sundeck or upper terrace on a sunny day is to secure one of the most prestigious seats in the Arlberg.

Wash things down and slide into the afternoon by ordering from Hospiz Alm’s extensive wine cellar, which holds the world’s largest collection of big-bottled Bordeaux and Burgundy. More than 3,000 bottles line the walls and ceiling—from 1.5 litre magnums and jeroboams right up to 27 litre primats and a decadent Chateau Latour worth around $129,000.

Hospiz Alm’s owner, Adi Werner, started collecting wine in the ’70s at the behest of the kings, millionaires and presidents who made up his clientele at the time. Now, like so many others in the tight-knit Arlberg community, he too has created something truly unique, another one-of-a-kind experience that makes this pocket of the European Alps extra special.

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Painted Black

Dion Lee is teaming up with Cho Cho San for an Australian Fashion Week event.

By Horacio Silva 10/05/2024

The more things change, the more things stay the same. Nowhere more than in the fashion world. Despite the vagaries of taste, black remains the go-to colour of choice. Fitting, then, that for next week’s Australian Fashion Week, the perennially black-clad media darling Dion Lee has partnered with Pott’s Point Izakaya joint Cho Cho San on a black-themed late-night ramen bar.

Lee, based in New York and not showing in Sydney next week, has worked with the restaurant to create a menu inspired by his inky, haute-industrial aesthetic and favourite flavours.

As part of the signature offering ($50pp) guests are offered “Dion’s Martini” on arrival (his take on the classic vodka drink spiked with a black olive, natch), a Tokyo-style shoyu ramen with shitake mushrooms, smoked daikon and crunchy tempura shiso leaf, and a winning black sesame and cocoa soft-serve ice-cream replete with black cone. (Trust us, it tastes infinitely better than it sounds.)

Lee rarely strays outside his fashion lane, but a little blackbirdie tells us to expect an announcement soon about a major new collaboration. Let’s hope it involves black ice cream.

Cho Cho San x Dion Lee: Late Night Ramen Bar

Available from May 13-16, 5pm to late.

Signature set: $50pp includes Dion’s Martini, Tokyo Shoyu Ramen and Black Sesame Soft Serve.

To book click here

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A New Chapter for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Stories’

A special Reverso exhibit arrives in Sydney this week.

By Josh Bozin 08/05/2024

Few watch enthusiasts would be unfamiliar with Jaeger-LeCoultre and its enduring Reverso collection. Since 1931, the Reverso has been celebrated as one of the great dress watches of the 20th century.

In recent years, the watch has gone from strength to strength—in 2023 alone, we received the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, the impressive Duoface Tourbillon, and the slimmer Reverso Tribute Small Seconds—capturing the imagination of casual observers, collectors, and those looking to scale the horological ladder.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

It is also part of the cultural conversation thanks to exceptional branding experiences, such as ‘Reverso Stories’, a travelling experiential trunk show. Jaeger-LeCoultre is again summoning its movable experience to Australia, this time in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. For a limited time, eager fans can glimpse the Reverso collection up close via a multi-sensory exhibition tracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.

Presented in four chapters ( Icon, Style and design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship), the Reverso story will be told through the lens of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expert watchmakers, who combine nine decades of craftsmanship, inventiveness, and design into one interactive experience.

As a bonus, guests will be privy to a large-scale art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang—commissioned by the Maison under its ‘Made of Makers’ programme—and the launch of three exceptional new Reverso timepieces, yet to be revealed. These watches will showcase skills such as enamelling, gold-leaf paillonage, and gem-setting, mastered by the manufacturer’s in-house Métiers Rares (Rare Handcrafts) atelier.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Completing the immersion into the spirit of Art Deco, guests will be able to enjoy a complementary refreshment post-experience at the pop-up Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Café.

‘Reverso Stories’ will be held in Sydney’s Martin Place from 10–19 May 2024. It will be open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (and 5 p.m. on Sundays) and free to the public. Visitors are welcome to book online here or register upon arrival.

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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