Eleven Luxury Domestic Travel Destinations

Discover the country’s most unique and engaging experiences — to dream (and book) now.

By Natasha Dragun 06/07/2021

Ultimate Outback Charter

At a time when distance is arguably the world’s greatest luxury, exploring the Australian outback in a private plane with just six other people could be considered the epitome of travel experiences. Abercrombie & Kent’s journey around South Australia doesn’t cut any corners—or compromise on style. Over eight days (pick between dates in August 2021 and March 2022), you’ll have the opportunity to glimpse attractions both from the air and on land en route.

Your journey begins in the Ikara-Flinders Ranges National Park—all red peaks, gorges and valleys of striated rock. Your pilot will take you low over Wilpena Pound before landing at Rawnsley Park Station, your base for the night and gateway to the rugged Bunyeroo and Brachina gorges, providing a window through 130 million years of the Earth’s history. Onwards you’ll visit Australia’s smallest town, William Creek, population 16. And then Coober Pedy, the country’s opal capital, where your accommodation for the night takes you deep underground—cave hotel, anyone?

Certain Australian sights bear an enormity that can only be grasped from the air: Kati Thanda, or Lake Eyre, is among these. Come sunrise, you’ll continue by gliding over this spectacle to witness the area’s surreal salt flats that shimmer all the way to the horizon. Your next destination is Mt. Ive Station, where Lake Gairdner’s own glistening salt pans cut a stark contrast against the hills of red sand that surround. The scenic whiplash continues as you reach Coffin Bay on the coast, and the brilliant blues of the Southern Ocean.

Swap sky for sea and cruise out to discover how the region’s Pacific and angasi oysters are grown and harvested, with dolphins, seals and seabirds as your travelling companions. Back on shore, national parkland reveals untouched beaches and dunes, bordered by ancient sandstone cliffs that cast long shadows over the land. Between here and Port Lincoln, your only diversion is for refreshments at a winery—more of which awaits at your final destination, the seafood capital of Australia.

abercrombiekent.com.au

Torres Strait By Superyacht

Set your super yacht’s GPS for about as far north as you can travel in Australia and you’ll reach the Torres Strait Islands, one of the world’s last true wilderness frontiers and a place that steals the soul with its sheer, unadulterated beauty. Off the tip of Cape York, the archipelago of 274 islands strings across the ocean between Queensland and Papua New Guinea, fringed by the northernmost reaches of the Great Barrier Reef—minus any of the crowds you’ll find snorkelling further south.

This remoteness guarantees nature writ large, whether on powdery beaches or atop volcanic peaks on drops of land that emerge from gin-clear water. The same blissful isolation means this part of the country is not easy to explore, unless you’ve chartered the shiny De Lisle III for $165,000 a week.

The price tag provides your group of 10 unfettered access to this 42-metre super yacht, custom fitted with teak and brass, and topped with an enviable jacuzzi for scenic soaks between anchor drops. Which may well be in the middle of nowhere, to snorkel with dugongs, dolphins, sea turtles and giant marlin, totally unperturbed by your presence—because they’ve likely never seen another human before. Then cruise out to more remote haunts to find hidden curves of sand, opaline bays and tiny villages that nurture Indigenous culture and traditions dating back more than 70,000 years.

Many Torres Strait Islands are also people-free, with only 20 inhabited and just a few others permitting visitors. Thursday Island, the area’s capital, is one; sleepy today, but once a bustling hub for pearling with hundreds of ships and divers based here. This part of the country—between Australia and the rest of the world—has also played a major role in defence over the decades, and you’ll still find decaying reminders of this heritage on far-flung outposts. Like Thursday Island’s 1891 Green Hill Fort, built to protect against a potential Russian invasion. And various gun emplacements, trenches and a wrecked aircraft on Horn Island, the only place in Australia where Aboriginal and European-descended soldiers served side by side.

This sobering reminder of the tragic past somehow makes the destinations you’ll sail to even more appealing; beauty can, it seems, survive and thrive, even when tested by the most extreme of human forces.

oceanalliance.com

Exclusive Sitting At Chae

The most talked about newcomer in Melbourne dining, Chae is a six-seat Korean effort housed in an apartment in Brunswick. That’s right, an apartment—the small home of head chef Jung Eun Chae and her husband Yoora Yoon. This is intimate and elevated home cooking—impeccable in taste and unique in experience, something Australian dining is too often lacking. Book exclusive use and, with a group of friends or family, experience something you simply won’t
find elsewhere.

chae.com.au

The Dreaming’, Kinara Spa, Longitude 131

Uluru is Australia’s spiritual heart, so it’s fitting that the most upscale lodge in these parts offers spa treatments that conjure blissful, soul-salving emotions. Under the gaze of the world’s mightiest monolith, exclusive Longitude 131° features tented villas scattered among native bushland. Prepare not to leave for three hours when you book “The Dreaming”, a reviving ritual based on philosophies tens of thousands of years in the making by the region’s Anangu people. It all begins with a body mud wrap of desert salts and yellow clay, for detoxification. Then you’ll ease into a Kodo (Aboriginal rhythmic) massage, scalp invigoration and lush facial, before ending your experience with a hand-and-foot treatment. Don’t forget to inhale along the way—products are infused with native ingredients including lilly pilly, munthari berry, quandong and wild rosella.

longitude131.com.au

Exclusive Hire, Orpheus Island

The only way to reach Orpheus Island is a private helicopter transfer from Townsville, your sky-high chariot whisking you off the Queensland coast over a coral-studded sea.

As if your ride north wasn’t exclusive enough, on arrival you can have the entire retreat—all 14 luxurious rooms—to yourself and 27 of your closest friends for $25,000 a night.

In the middle of the Great Barrier Reef and set on 1,300 hectares of national parkland, the island and its only resort began life as a humble retreat in the 1950s—back then a favourite getaway among the likes of glam British actor Vivien Leigh, who came to switch off and bliss out.

Today, the design inspiration is Hamptons-chic, replete with sun-kissed rooms, suites and villas bedazzled in crisp whites, azures and emerald greens—think Robinson Crusoe meets The Ritz.
But the goal remains the same as when Leigh roamed the grounds—this is a place where you can disconnect from technology and reconnect with the nature that encompasses the resort.

First stop should be the world’s largest reef, the waters surrounding this island idyll churning with an astounding 1,100 of the Great Barrier Reef’s 1,500 species of fish, not to mention almost every single species of hard coral ever recorded. Strap on a mask and fins to swim with manta rays, sea turtles and even humpback whales during migration season (May-November). Then dry off to make the most of the resort’s on-land natural luxuries, like gourmet picnics on the sand or dinner degustations under the stars.

If bobbing about in the ocean appeals, plan an extended stay on the resort’s opulent 32-metre M.Y. Flying Fish, able to accommodate overnight jaunts around the reef in serious style. There’s space for eight on board, plus a rooftop helipad enabling guests to chopper off to remote sandbanks for sunset cocktails, or opt for beach fishing whenever the mood strikes.

orpheus.com.au

Ultimate Staycation & Seaplane To Jervis Bay

Few hotels in the world boast as enviable a location as Sydney’s Four Seasons, steps from Circular Quay and with swoon-worthy views over the Harbour Bridge and Opera House. If you can tear yourself away from the vista, a feature central to most rooms and suites, then leave the planning of your day in the begloved hands of the hotel’s concierge. Their little black book of “Extraordinary Experiences” covers everything from a private lobster lunch while cruising the harbour, to sunrise yoga atop the world’s most recognisable aforementioned bridge. Or consider the pièce de résistance: a leisurely seaplane jaunt down the New South Wales coast to Jervis Bay.

This is an outing where the journey matters just as much as the destination, your ride soaring over national parkland, crystalline coves and jagged cliffs before dropping you off on a dazzling beach—the South Coast of the state boasts some of the whitest sands in the world. Your hosts prepare lunch while you recline and spot bottlenose dolphins and (if you’re here from May through November) migrating humpback and southern right whales which regularly create a splash in the marine park just offshore from the open-air dining spot.

Soar back to the Four Seasons in time for a cocktail masterclass and degustation in the opulent two-bedroom Presidential Suite’s dining room. The hotel’s cocktail craftsman Cedric Mendoza will help you shake and stir your way through a private session, with plenty of time to sip concoctions on the balcony of the hotel’s highest floor, while dinner—a five-course degustation—is prepared. Don’t close your curtains; this is a view you will want to awaken to.

fourseasons.com

Dinner (And Tennis) With MONA’s David Walsh

Ten years ago, millionaire philanthropist David Walsh went on a wild ride to open Australia’s most talked about gallery. His Museum of Old and New Art (Mona) in Hobart lies on a peninsula just a short ride up the Derwent River from the centre of town; when you arrive, you’re greeted by a heritage 1958 Roy Grounds-designed cottage, which then channels you down
a rabbit warren of dramatic subterranean spaces crafted by local architectural firm Fender Katsalidi.

While the museum and its collection of edgy, provocative artworks, themed around sex and death, is the peninsula’s major draw, over a decade the site has evolved to now include accommodation, restaurants, a brewery and neighbouring winery. And you can get a taste for all offerings—and meet their charismatic owner—for $50,000 per person.

The Cultural Attractions of Australia “Dinner With David” offers unheard-of access to this self-proclaimed “maths nerd”. Jet into the Tasmanian capital from Melbourne or Sydney via private plane,
then sit down with Walsh in Mona’s The Source restaurant for a degustation while sipping Moorilla wines, made just a few metres from the dining room.

Sleep soundly in one of the on-site Mona Pavilions—each named after a famed Australian artist or designer—then wake leisurely to enjoy lunch in sensory-exploring dining room Faro. Afterwards, Moorilla’s vintner Conor van der Reest will guide you around the estate, offering a behind-the-scenes glimpse into winemaking in this part of the state. Don’t be surprised if Walsh then challenges you to a hit of tennis—he has a mean backhand, or so the legend goes.

culturalattractionsofaustralia.com

Opera At Uluru

Every year, Opera Australia unites song and spirituality in the heart of the country. Enter the troupe’s exclusive series of September shows at Uluru, which can be enjoyed with just a handful of other select guests, under the stars and backdropped by one of the world’s greatest natural wonders.

Choose Captain’s Choice and fly in for the gala performance on a private, all-business-class charter, sipping fine wines and savouring a gourmet lunch on board before touching down at Ayers Rock Airport beside the Northern Territory’s hulking sandstone monolith.

Your afternoon here is spent wandering through the legendary landscapes of Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park, with ancient rock escarpments and gorges that appear to cleave off the edge of the Earth. This is a place as inspiring as it is humbling, made even more memorable by the live music that will fill your soul as it does the landscape: such as the dramatic notes of Mozart’s The Marriage of Figaro. You’ll be serenaded by Australia’s finest soloists, led by Opera Australia’s artistic director, Lyndon Terracini AM, in a performance outshone perhaps only by its own setting among the Field of Light.

Created by British artist Bruce Munro, this dazzling union of 50,000 spindles of light blankets the Red Centre’s soil, the stems breathing and swaying through a desert spectrum of ochre, deep violet, blue and pearl. The epic glow—on display only until the end of December—illuminates your alfresco meal, prepared using locally sourced native bush ingredients that speak of the land. When the event ends, check in to your room at Sails in the Desert hotel at Ayres Rock Resort, where rooms encircle a dreamy gumtree-lined pool, and an on-site gallery showcases Indigenous art.

captainschoice.com.au

Flinders Island By Helicopter

Tasmania is known, among other things, for wild landscapes, some of the world’s tastiest seafood and standout wines. These attractions all coalesce on a day trip with Unique Charters. Jump in your helicopter from Peppers Silo Hotel in Launceston, then zip northeast to Flinders Island, the largest of its kind in the Bass Strait’s Furneaux Group. This is a place of untamed, windswept beauty, with precipitous cliffs, empty white-sand beaches and rocky shores blanketed in fiery-hued lichen—look out for seasonal whales splashing about offshore as you near your destination.

Your hosts will be waiting with a Flinders Island Gin and tonic—your aperitif while lunch is caught and prepared for you. And what a showcase of local produce your meal is: ocean-fresh crayfish, plump oysters, juicy octopus and cheeses made on neighbouring islets. Your spread is served just steps from the sand at Killiecrankie Beach, a sweeping crescent of azure water that you will likely have entirely to yourself.

If you don’t want the day to end, extend your experience and drop in on some of Tassie’s northern vineyards for a flight or two of a more flavourful kind, before returning to your base.

uniquecharters.com.au

Day Trip To Lord Howe Island

Scenic coastal views across Lord Howe Island.

Off the coast of New South Wales, Lord Howe Island has a permanent population of just 360, and daily visitor numbers are capped at 400. And you’ll be one of the lucky few when journeying here for lunch with Crooked Compass by Air. Before touching down at the petite airport, your private charter plane will circle over record-breaking Ball’s Pyramid, a dramatic hunk of basalt that, at 562 metres high, happens to be the world’s tallest sea stack.

After wheels down on Lord itself, enjoy the morning exploring a setting so untamed and otherworldly that it’s earned a UNESCO listing for natural beauty. Its Jurassic-like landscapes of soaring sea cliffs and tangled jungle serve as the breeding ground for 14 species of seabirds, not to mention 130 permanent and migratory bird species—among them the endemic Lord Howe Island woodhen, saved from extinction by local conservation efforts. They flutter between unspoiled and empty beaches, swirl over the towering kentia palm-clad peaks of Gower and Lidgbird, and swoop low across a crystal-clear lagoon protected by the planet’s most southern barrier reef—you can take a dip here with green and hawksbill turtles, bottlenose dolphins and all manner of fish after lunch. But first, the food.

Your dining venue is Anchorage Restaurant, helmed by executive chef David Chlumsky, who earned his stripes at applauded Sydney restaurants Quay, Otto and Longrain. On Lord Howe, Chlumsky’s mod-Australian menu is produce-driven and seasonal, utilising the best of the island and its surrounds, whether organic fruit and vegetables or sustainably caught seafood.

Dust off the crumbs and decide how to spend your afternoon: gliding about the lagoon in a glass-bottom boat, snorkelling over immense coral bommies to explore shipwrecks in the company of huge schools of Moorish idols, or wandering along the sand being entertained by chattering terns and shearwaters. You’re just here for the day—your private charter plane awaits to whisk you and your entourage of seven back to the mainland in time for dinner.

crookedcompassbyair.com

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version comes with an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel, and will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games, since 1932.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics; turn over each timepiece and instead of finding a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplatntis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they have delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, at the top end of the scale, you’re looking at 85K for the all-gold Speedmaster, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. In comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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Bill Henson Show Opens at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery

Dark, grainy and full of shadows Bill Henson’s latest show draws on 35 mm colour film shot in New York City in 1989.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 20/04/2024

Bill Henson is one of Australia’s best-known contemporary photographers. When a show by this calibre of artist opens here, the art world waits with bated breath to see what he will unveil.

This time, he presents a historically important landscape series that chronicles a time in New York City that no longer exists. It’s a nostalgic trip back in time, a nocturnal odyssey through the frenetic, neon-lit streets of a long-lost America.

Known for his chiaroscuro style, Henson’s cinematic photographs often transform his subject into ambiguous objects of beauty. This time round, the show presents a mysterious walk through the streets of Manhattan, evoking a seedy, yet beautiful vision of the city. 

Bill Henson Untitled, 1989. Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley Gallery
Installation shot of Bill Henson’s show,’The Liquid Night’ at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery.

Relying on generative gaps, these landscapes result from Henson mining his archive of negatives and manipulating them to produce a finished print. Sometimes, they are composed by a principle of magnification, with Henson honing in on details, and sometimes, they are created through areas of black being expanded to make the scene more cinematic and foreboding. Like silence in a film or the pause in a pulse, the black suggests the things you can’t see. 

Bill Henson, Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery
Bill Henson, Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery
Bill Henson Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery

Henson’s illustrious career has spanned four decades and was memorably marred by controversy over a series of nude adolescent photographs shown in 2008, which made him front-page news for weeks. This series of portraits made Henson the subject of a police investigation during which no offence was found. 

In recent years, Henson has been a sharp critic of cancel culture, encouraging artists to contribute something that will have lasting value and add to the conversation, rather than tearing down the past.

Untitled 2/1, 1990-91 from the series Paris Opera Project type C photograph 127 x 127 cm; series of 50 Edition of 10 + AP 2

His work deals with the liminal space between the mystical and the real, the seen and unseen, the boundary between youth and adulthood.

His famous Paris Opera Project, 1990-91, pictured above, is similarly intense as the current show, dwelling on the border between the painterly and the cinematic.

Bill Henson’s ‘The Liquid Night’ runs until 11 May 2024 at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery.

Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery, 8 Soudan Ln, Paddington NSW; roslynoxley9.com.au 

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Polar Opposites

A journey north to one of the harshest, remotest spots on Earth couldn’t be more luxurious. 

By Michael Verdon 18/04/2024

A century ago, an expedition to the North Pole involved dog sleds and explorers in heavy, fur-lined clothes, windburned and famished after weeks of trudging across ice floes, finally planting their nations’ flags in the barren landscape. These days, if you’re a tourist, the only way to reach 90 degrees north latitude, the geographic North Pole, is aboard Le Commandant Charcot, a six-star hotel mated to a massive, 150-metre ice-breaking hull. 

My wife, Cathy, and I are among the first group of tourists aboard Ponant’s new expedition icebreaker, the world’s only Polar Class 2–rated cruise ship (of seven levels of ice vessel, second only to research and military vessels in ability to manoeuvre in Arctic conditions). Our arrival on July 14 couldn’t be more different from explorer Robert Peary’s on April 6, 1909. On that date, he reported, he staked a small American flag—sewed by his wife—into the Pole, joined by four Inuits and his assistant, Matthew Henson, a Black explorer from Maine who was with Peary on his two previous Arctic expeditions. (Peary’s claim of being first to the Pole was quickly disputed by another American, Frederick Cook, who insisted he’d spent two days there a year earlier. Scholars now view both claims with skepticism.) 

Our 300-plus party’s landing, on Bastille Day, features the captain of the French ship driving around in an all-terrain vehicle with massive wheels and an enormous tricolour flag on the back, guests dressed in stylish orange parkas celebrating on the ice, and La Marseillaise, France’s national anthem, blaring from loudspeakers. After an hour of taking selfies and building snow igloos in the icescape, with temperatures in the relatively balmy low 30s, we head back into our heated sanctuary for mulled wine and freshly baked croissants. Mission accomplished. Flags planted. Now, lunch. 

As a kid, I was fascinated by stories of adventurers trying to reach the North Pole without any means of rescue. In the 19th century, most of their attempts ended in disaster—ships getting trapped in the ice, a hydrogen balloon crashing, even cannibalism. It wasn’t until Cook and Peary reportedly set foot there that the race to the North Pole was really on. Norwegian Roald Amundsen, the first to reach the South Pole, in 1911, is credited with being the first to document a trip over the North Pole, which he did in 1926 in the airship Norge. In 1977, the nuclear-powered icebreaker Arktika became the first surface vessel to make it to the North Pole. Since then, only 18 other ships have completed the voyage. 

Le Commandant Charcot

Visiting the North Pole seemed about as likely for me as walking on the Moon. It wasn’t even on my bucket list. Then came Le Commandant Charcot, which was named after France’s most beloved polar explorer and reportedly cost about US$430 million (around $655 million) to build. The irony of visiting one of the planet’s most remote and inhospitable points while travelling in the lap of luxury doesn’t escape me or anyone else I speak with on the voyage. Danie Ferreira, from Cape Town, South Africa, describes it as “an ensemble of contradictions bordering on the absurd”. Ferreira, who is on board with his wife, Suzette, is a veteran of early-explorer-style high-Arctic journeys, months-long treks involving dog sleds and real toil and suffering. He booked this trip to obtain an official North Pole stamp for an upcoming two-volume collection of his photographs, Out in the Cold, documenting his polar adventures. “Reserving the cabin felt like a betrayal of my expeditionary philosophy,” he says with a laugh. 

Then, like the rest of us, he embraces the contradictions. “This is like the first time I saw the raw artistry of Cirque du Soleil,” he explains. “Everything is beyond my wildest expectations, unrelatable to anything I’ve experienced.”

One of the ship’s scientists tests the ice with a passenger.

The 17-day itinerary launches from the Norwegian settlement of Longyearbyen, Svalbard, the northernmost town in the Arctic Circle, and heads 1,186 nautical miles to the North Pole, then back again. As a floating hotel, the vessel is exceptional: 123 balconied staterooms and suites, the most expensive among them duplexes with butler service (prices range from around $58,000 to $136,000 per person, double occupancy); a spa with a sauna, massage therapists, and aestheticians; a gym and heated indoor pool. The boat weighs more than 35,000 tons, enabling it to break ice floes like “a chocolate bar into little pieces, rather than slice through them”, according to Captain Patrick Marchesseau. Six-metre-wide stainless-steel propellers, he adds, were designed to “chew ice like a blender”. 

Marchesseau, a tall, lanky, 40-ish mariner from Brittany, impeccable in his navy uniform but rocking royal-blue boat shoes, proves to be a charming host. Never short of a good quip, he’s one of three experienced ice captains who alternate at the helm of Charcot throughout the year. He began piloting Ponant ships through drifting ice floes in Antarctica in 2009, when he took the helm of Le Diamant, Ponant’s first expedition vessel. “An epic introduction,” Marchesseau calls those early voyages, but the isolated, icebound North Pole aboard a larger, more complicated vessel is potentially an even thornier challenge. “We’ll first sail east where the ice is less concentrated and then enter the pack at 81 degrees,” he tells a lecture hall filled with passengers on day one. “We don’t plan to stop until we get to the North Pole.” 

Around us, the majority of the other 101 guests are older French couples; there are also a few extended families, some other Europeans, mostly German and Dutch, as well as 10 Americans. Among the supporting cast are six research scientists and 221 staff, including 18 naturalist guides from a variety of countries. 

The first six days are more about the journey than the destination. Cathy and I settle into our comfortable stateroom, enjoy the ocean views from our balcony, make friends with other guests and naturalists, frequent the spa, and indulge in the contemporary French cuisine at Nuna, which is often jarred by ice passing under the hull, as well as at the more casual Sila (Inuit for “sky”). There are the usual cruise events: the officers’ gala, wine pairings, daily French pastries, Broadway-style shows, opera singers and concert pianists. Initially, I worry about “Groundhog Day” setting in, but once we hit patchy ice floes on day two, it’s clear that the polar party is on. The next day, we’re ensconced in the ice pack. 

Veterans of Arctic journeys immediately feel at home. Ferreira, often found on the observation deck 15 metres above the ice with his long-lensed cameras, is in his element snapping different patterns and colours of the frozen landscape. “It feels like combining low-level flying with an out-of-body experience,” he says. “Whenever the hull shudders against the ice, I have a reality check.” 

Spotting a small colony of penguins. IMAGE: Ponant

“I came back because I love this ice,” adds American Gin Millsap, who with her husband, Jim, visited the North Pole in 2015 aboard the Russian nuclear icebreaker Fifty Years of Victory, which for obvious reasons is no longer a viable option for Americans and many Europeans. “I love the peace, beauty and calmness.” 

It is easy to bliss out on the endless barren vistas, constantly morphing into new shapes, contours and shades of white as the weather moves from bright sunshine to howling snowstorms—sometimes within the course of a few hours. I spend a lot of time on the cold, windswept bow, looking at the snow patterns, ridges and rivers flowing within the pale landscape as the boat crunches through the ice. It feels like being in a black-and-white movie, with no colours except the turquoise bottoms of ice blocks overturned by the boat. Beautiful, lonely, mesmerising. 

Rather than a solid landmass, the Arctic ice pack is actually millions of square kilometres of ice floes, slowly pushed around by wind and currents. The size varies according to season: this past winter, the ice was at its fifth-lowest level on record, encompassing 14.6 million square kilometres, while during our cruise it was 4.7 million square kilometres, the 10th-lowest summer number on record. There are myriad ice types—young ice, pancake ice, ice cake, brash ice, fast ice—but the two that our ice pilot, Geir-Martin Leinebø, cares about are first-year ice and old ice. The thinness of the former provides the ideal route to the Pole, while the denseness of the aged variety can result in three-to-eight-metre-high ridges that are potentially impassable. Leinebø is no novice: in his day job, he’s the captain of Norway’s naval icebreaker, KV Svalbard, the first Norwegian vessel to reach the North Pole, in 2019. 

Atlantic puffin, typically seen along the coast of Svalbard.

It’s not a matter of just pointing the boat due north and firing up the engine. Leinebø zigzags through the floes. A morning satellite feed and special software aid in determining the best route; the ship’s helicopter sometimes scouts 65 or so kilometres ahead, and there’s a sonar called the Sea Ice Monitoring System (SIMS). But mostly Leinebø uses his eyes. “You look for the weakest parts of the ice—you avoid the ridges because that means thickness and instead look for water,” he says. “If the ‘water sky’ in the distance is dark, it’s reflecting water like a mirror, so you head in that direction.” 

Everyone on the bridge is surprised by the lack of multi-year ice, but with more than a hint of disquietude. Though we don’t have to ram our way through frozen ridges, the advance of climate change couldn’t be more apparent. Environmentalists call the Arctic ice sheet the canary in the coal mine of the planet’s climate change for good reason: it is happening here first. “It’s not right,” mutters Leinebø. “There’s just too much open water for July. Really scary.” 

The Arctic ice sheet has shrunk to about half its 1985 size, and as both mariners and scientists on board note, the quality of the ice is deteriorating. “It’s happening faster than our models predicted,” says Marisol Maddox, senior arctic analyst at the Polar Institute of the Woodrow Wilson International Center for Scholars. “We’re seeing major events like Greenland’s ice sheet melting and sliding into the ocean—that wasn’t forecasted until 2070.” The consensus had been that the Arctic would be ice-free by 2050, but many scientists now expect that day to come in the 2030s. 

That deterioration, it turns out, is why the three teams of scientists are on the voyage—two studying the ice and the other assessing climate change’s impact on plankton. As part of its commitment to sustainability, Ponant has designed two research labs—one wet and one dry—on a lower deck. “We took the advice of many scientists for equipping these labs,” says Hugues Decamus, Charcot’s chief engineer, clearly proud of the nearly US$12 million facilities. 

The combined size of the labs, along with a sonar room, a dedicated server for the scientists, and a meteorological station on the vessel’s top deck, totals 130 square metres—space that could have been used for revenue generation. Ponant also has two staterooms reserved for scientists on each voyage and provides grants for travel expenses. The line doesn’t cherrypick researchers but instead asks the independent Arctic Research Icebreaker Consortium (ARICE) to choose participants based on submissions. 

Birds take flight as passengers explore on a Zodiac excursion.

The idea, says the vessel’s science officer on this voyage, Daphné Buiron, is to make the process transparent and minimise the appearance of greenwashing. “Yes, this alliance may deliver a positive public image for the company, but this ship shows we do real science on board,” she says. The labs will improve over time, adds Decamus, as the ship amasses more sophisticated equipment. 

Research scientists and tourist vessels don’t typically mix. The former, wary of becoming mascots for the cruise lines’ sustainability marketing efforts, and cognisant of the less-than-pristine footprint of many vessels, tend to be wary. The cruise lines, for their part, see scientists as potentially high maintenance when paying customers should be the priority. But there seemed to be a meeting of the minds, or at least a détente, on Le Commandant Charcot. 

“We discuss this a lot and are aware of the downsides, but also the positives,” says Franz von Bock und Polach, head of the institute for ship structural design and analysis at Hamburg University of Technology, specialising in the physics of sea ice. Not only does Charcot grant free access to these remote areas, but the ship will also collect data on the same route multiple times a year with equipment his team leaves on board, offering what scientists prize most: repeatability. “One transit doesn’t have much value,” he says. “But when you measure different seasons, regions and years, you build up a more complex picture.” So, more than just a research paper: forecasts of ice conditions for long-term planning by governments as the Arctic transforms. 

Nils Haëntjens, from the University of Maine, is analysing five-millilitre drops of water on a high-tech McLane IFCB microscope. “The instrument captures more than 250,000 images of phytoplankton along the latitudinal transect,” he says. Charcot has doors in the wet lab that allow the scientists to take water samples, and in the bow, inlets take in water without contaminating it. Two freezers can preserve samples for further research back in university labs. 

Even though the boat won’t stop, the captain and chief engineer clearly want to make the science missions work. Marchesseau dispatches the helicopter with the researchers and their gear 100 kilometres ahead, where they take core samples and measurements. I spot them in their red snowsuits, pulling sleds on an ice floe, as the boat passes. Startled to see living-colour humans on the ice after days of monochrome, I feel a pang of jealousy as I head for a caviar tasting. 

The only other humans we encounter on the journey north are aboard Fifty Years of Victory, the Russian icebreaker. The 160-metre orange- and-black leviathan reached the North Pole a day earlier—its 59th visit—and is on its way back to Murmansk. It’s a classic East meets West moment: the icebreaker, launched just after the collapse of the Soviet Union, meeting the new standard of polar luxury. 

The evening before Bastille Day, Le Commandant Charcot arrives at the North Pole. Because of the pinpoint precision of the GPS, Marchesseau has to navigate back and forth for about 20 minutes—with a bridge full of passengers hushing each other so as not to distract him—until he finds 90 degrees north. That final chaotic approach to the top of the world in the grey, windswept landscape looks like a kid’s Etch A Sketch on the chartplotter, but it is met with rousing cheers. The next morning, with good visibility and light winds, we spill out onto the ice for the celebration, followed by a polar plunge. 

As guests pose in front of flags and mile markers for major cities, the naturalist guides, armed with rifles, establish a wide perimeter to guard against polar bears. The fearless creatures are highly intelligent, with razor-sharp teeth, hooked claws and the ability to sprint at 40 km/h. Males average about three metres tall and weigh around 700 kilos. They are loners that will kill anything—including other bears and even their own cubs. Cathy and I walk around the far edges of the perimeter to enjoy some solitude. Looking out over the white landscape, I know this is a milestone. But it feels odd that getting here didn’t involve any sweat or even a modicum of discomfort. 

Kayaking around an ice floe.

The rest of the week is an entirely different trip. On the return south, we see a huge male polar bear ambling on the ice, looking over his shoulder at us. It is our first sighting of the Arctic’s apex predator, and everyone crowds the observation lounge with long-lensed cameras. The next day, we see another male, this one smaller, running away from the ship. “They have many personalities,” says Steiner Aksnes, head of the expedition team, who has led scientists and film crews in the Arctic for 25 years. We see a dozen on the return to Svalbard, where 3,000 are scattered across the archipelago, outnumbering human residents. 

The last five days we make six stops on different islands, travelling by Zodiac from Charcot to various beaches. On Lomfjorden, as we look on a hundred yards from shore, a mother polar bear protects her two cubs while a young male hovers in the background. On a Zodiac ride off Alkefjellet, the air is alive with birds, including tens of thousands of Brünnich’s guillemots as well as glaucous gulls and kittiwakes, which nest in that island’s cliffs, while a young male polar bear munches on a ring seal, chin glistening red. 

On this part of the trip, the expedition team, mostly 30-something, free-spirited scientists whose areas of expertise range from botany to alpine trekking to whales, lead hikes across different landscapes. The jam-packed schedule sometimes involves three activities per day and includes following the reindeer on Palanderbukta, seeing a colony of 200 walruses on Kapp Lee, hiking the black tundra of Burgerbukta (boasting 3.8-cm-tall willows—said to be the smallest trees in the world and the largest on Svalbard—plus mosquitoes!), watching multiple species of whales breaching offshore, and kayaking the ice floes of Ekmanfjorden. Svalbard is a protected wilderness area, and the cruise lines tailor their schedules so vessels don’t overlap, giving visitors the impression they are setting foot on virgin land. 

Chances to experience that sense of discovery and wonder, even slightly stage-managed ones, are dwindling along with the ice sheet and endangered wildlife. If a stunning trip to a frozen North Pole is on your bucket list, the time to go is now.

Suite bedroom with sliding doors leading to private terrace.

PARADIGM SHIP

For those studying polar ice, a berth aboard Le Commandant Charcot is like a winning lottery ticket. “This cruise ship is one of the few resources scientists can use, because nothing else can get there,” says G. Mark Miller, CEO of research-vessel builder Greenwater Marine Sciences Offshore (GMSO) and a former ship captain for the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). “Then factor in 80 percent of scientists who want to go to sea, can’t, because of the shortage of research vessels.” 

Both Ponant and Viking have designed research labs aboard new expedition vessels as part of their sustainability initiatives. “Remote areas like Antarctica need more data—the typical research is just single data points,” says Damon Stanwell-Smith, Ph.D., head of science and sustainability at Viking. “Every scientist says more information is needed.”  The twin sisterships Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris, which travel to Antarctica, Patagonia, the Great Lakes and Canada, have identical 35-square-metre labs, separated into wet and dry areas and fitted out with research equipment. In hangars below are military-grade rigid-hulled inflatables and two six-person yellow submersibles (the pair on Octantis are named John and Paul, while Polaris’s are George and Ringo). Unlike Ponant, Viking doesn’t have an independent association choose scientists for each voyage. Instead, it partners with the University of Cambridge, the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, and NOAA, which send their researchers to work with Viking’s onboard science officers. 

The cigar lounge which also serves speciality spirits.

“Some people think marine research is sticking some kids on a ship to take measurements,” says Stanwell-Smith. “But we know we can do first-rate science—not spin.”  Other cruise lines are also embracing sustainability initiatives, with coral-reef-restoration projects and water-quality measurements, usually in partnership with universities. Just about every vessel has “citizen-scientist” research programs allowing guests the opportunity to count birds or pick up discarded plastic on beaches. So far, Ponant and Viking are the only lines with serious research labs. Ponant is adding science officers to other vessels in its fleet. As part of the initiatives, scientists deliver onboard lectures and sometimes invite passengers to assist in their research. 

Inneq, the ship’s open-air bar.

Given the shortage of research vessels, Stanwell-Smith thinks this passenger-funded system will coexist nicely with current NGO- and government-owned ships. “This could be a new paradigm for exploring the sea,” he says. “Maybe the next generation of research vessels will look like ours.”

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Watch of the Week: the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon

The new release claims the throne as the world’s thinnest Tourbillon.

By Josh Bozin 19/04/2024

Piaget, the watchmaker’s watchmaker, has once again redefined the meaning of “ultra-thin” thanks to its newest masterpiece, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon—the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch.

In the world of high-watchmaking where thin is never thin enoughlook at the ongoing battle between Piaget, Bulgari, and Richard Mille for the honours—Piaget caused a furore at Watches & Wonders in Geneva when it unveiled its latest feat to coincide with the Maison’s 150th year anniversary.

Piaget
Piaget

Piaget claims that the new Altiplano is “shaped by a quest for elegance and driven by inventiveness”, and while this might be true, it’s clear that the Maison’s high-watchmaking divisions in La Côte-aux-Fées and Geneva are also looking to end the conversation around who owns the ultra-thin watchmaking category.

The new Altiplano pushes the boundaries of horological ingenuity 67 years after Piaget invented its first ultra-thin calibre—the revered 9P—and six years after it presented the world’s then-thinnest watch, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept. Now, with the release of this unrivalled timepiece at just 2mm thick—the same as its predecessor, yet now housing the beat of a flying tourbillon, prized by watchmaking connoisseurs—you can’t help but marvel at its ultra-thin mastery, whether the timepiece is to your liking or not.

Piaget
Piaget

In comparison, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon was 3.95mm thick when unveiled in 2020, which seems huge on paper compared to what Piaget has been able to produce. But to craft a watch as thin and groundbreaking as its predecessor, now with an added flying tourbillon complication, the whole watchmaking process had to be revalued and reinvented.

“We did far more than merely add a tourbillon,” says Benjamin Comar, Piaget CEO. “We reinvented everything.”

After three years of R&D, trial and error—and a redesign of 90 percent of the original Altiplano Ultimate Concept components—the 2024 version needs to be held and seen to be believed. The end product certainly isn’t a watch for the everyday watch wearer—although Piaget will tell you otherwise—but in many ways, the company didn’t conjure a timepiece like the Altiplano as a profit-seeking exercise. Instead, overcoming such an arduous and technical watchmaking feat proves that Piaget can master the flying tourbillon in such a whimsical fashion and, in the process, subvert the current state-of-the-art technical principles by making an impactful visual—and technical—statement.

The only question left to ask is, what’s next, Piaget?

Piaget
Piaget

Model: Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary
Diameter: 41.5 mm
Thickness: 2 mm (crystal included)
Material: M64BC cobalt alloy, blue PVD -treated
Dial: Monobloc dial; polished round and baton indices, Bâton-shaped hand for the minutes Monobloc disc with a hand for the hours
Water resistance: 20m

Movement: Calibre 970P-UC, one-minute peripheral tourbillon
Winding: Hand-wound
Functions: hours, minutes, and small seconds (time-only)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Availability: Limited production, not numbered
Price: Price on request

 

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