The 17 most hotly anticipated hotel openings of 2019

The beach resorts, city hotels, safari camps and adventure lodges you need to know this year.

By Devorah Lev-tov 21/01/2019

A boutique hotel with a floating spa in England’s countryside. Luxury domes in the middle of Bolivia’s salt flats. A top-to-bottom remake of one of the world’s legendary hotels in Singapore. These are just a few of the reasons we’re excited to travel in 2019. As we hunker down for winter, we’re setting the countdown for the openings of some truly incredible properties this year, from spa retreats to lavish resorts to tented camps across the globe. Here, we’re predicting an entire year’s worth of the best in travel- let’s go!

The New Beach Classic: Zadún, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve

Opening: Summer 2019

After what seems like eons of waiting, the first new Reserve property from Ritz-Carlton in three years will finally open its doors this summer in Los Cabos, Mexico, joining the three other ultra-luxurious properties in the exclusive portfolio. Cabo is seeing an unprecedented number of luxury resorts launching this year, including properties from Four Seasons and Nobu, but we’re most impressed with Zadún, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve thanks to its spectacular beachfront location, two pools, five-acre wellness haven, 27-hole golf resort with three distinct courses designed by Greg Norman and Jack Nicklaus and four restaurants and bars. There will be 115 suites and one- and two-story villas, each with a personal butler and many with a private plunge pool. If you can’t relax here, we’re out of ideas.


Zadún, a Ritz-Carlton Reserve
Photo: Courtesy Ritz-Carlton

The Elite French Retreat: Hotel Château du Grand-Lucé

Opening: Spring 2019

Does France need more chateaus-turned-hotels? If it’s the Hotel Château du Grand-Lucé, our answer is a resounding yes. A former Loire Valley country home of the Baron Jacques Pineau de Viennay from 1760, the château is being returned to its 18th-century splendor after a careful private restoration under the guidance of the French government. Having played host to luminaries like Voltaire, Rousseau and Mozart, the property oozes an unapologetically opulent (and undeniably French) style. The 45,000-square-foot château, set to open this spring, will have 17 rooms and suites, a spa and fitness centre, a grand ballroom, formal and informal dining rooms, orangeries and nearly 80 acres of impeccable French gardens and grounds. Over-the-top doesn’t begin to explain the lavishness here: From original boiserie walls with wooden details to stunning chandeliers dripping with crystals to custom fabrics from French luminaries like Pierre Frey, Christian Lacroix and Jean Paul Gaultier, the Château du Grand-Lucé will give Paris grandes dames a run for their money.


Hotel Château du Grand-Lucé
Photo: © Catherine O’Hara Photography

The Vineyard Treasure: Four Seasons Resort & Residences Napa Valley

Opening: Mid-2019

Four Seasons is entering the wine business with the introduction of its Four Seasons Napa Valley this summer. The property will have its own winery operated by Thomas Rivers Brown and a hand-farmed vineyard visible from the 85 rustic-chic rooms and suites with private terraces. Dining options will be top-notch- this is Napa, after all- with a restaurant, pool grill and a general store stocked with local gourmet picnic necessities. There will also be two outdoor pools and a stone-clad eight-room spa featuring outdoor treatments using mineral-rich local mud. Our favorite detail? The two cabanas hidden among the vines, which can be used for spa treatments and private dinners.


Four Seasons Resort & Residences Napa Valley
Photo: Courtesy Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts

The Soaring High-Rise: Rosewood Hong Kong

Opening: March 2019

Hong Kong has no lack of high-end super-luxe hotels, which makes the March opening of the Rosewood Hong Kong all the more exciting: This hotel is competing with some of the world’s best urban properties and we are positive it will more than hold its own. With some of the largest rooms in the city and more than 80 percent of them having panoramic harbor views, the hotel features impeccable design by Tony Chi, with rich materials, one-of-a-kind art and thoughtful details like double showerheads, deep soaking tubs and well-stocked bar carts in all suites.

The 65-story Kohn Pedersen Fox–built tower will devote 43 stories to the hotel, and there will be 322 rooms and 91 suites, including 18 extravagant signature suites like the 10,764-square-foot Harbour House and Garden House, both of which enjoy wraparound sky terraces with Victoria Harbour views. Other hotel amenities include uniquely designed salons with curated artifacts on each floor; the posh and sophisticated Manor Club executive lounge; the brand’s first urban Asaya, Rosewood’s holistic wellness concept set across two levels; and eight restaurants and bars including an authentic Chinese tea house.


Rosewood Hong Kong
Image: Courtesy Rosewood Hotels & Resorts

The Island Paradise: Waldorf Astoria Maldives Ithaafushi

Opening: March 2019

Despite the fact that the Maldives keep shrinking, the hotels and resorts on its islands seem to be multiplying. This year will see openings by Baglioni Resorts, Raffles and the one we’re most curious about: the Waldorf Astoria Maldives Ithaafushi. Spanning three islands in the South Male Atoll, the resort will have 10 dining outlets and 138 carefully positioned beachfront and overwater villas. Each lavishly appointed villa will be equipped with a private pool, hot tub and lounge deck area. Some overwater villas will also have magnificent glass flooring for crystal-clear views of the lagoon below.

Probably the only thing that will pry you away from the pristine beach is the massive, it-has-everything 21,500-square-foot spa with an extensive outdoor bathing circuit, a VIP spa suite, a hammam suite, four resting pavilions, a vitality pool, a beauty salon and an indoor and outdoor mind and body studio. A gym, an outdoor fitness center, aqua spinning classes and an overwater yoga platform complement the spa’s offerings.


Waldorf Astoria Maldives Ithaafushi
Photo: Courtesy Waldorf Astoria Hotels and Resorts

The Italian Exclusive: Hotel de la Ville

Opening: May 2019

Rome’s hotel offerings were getting a bit tired. But la dolce vita is making its way back to the Eternal City- first with the spectacular renovation of the St. Regis Rome and soon, with the arrival of Hotel de la Ville, a Rocco Forte property set to open at the top of the Spanish Steps in May. The historic 18th-century palazzo, which originally opened as a hotel in 1924, will have 104 elegant rooms and suites designed by Tommaso Ziffer in collaboration with Olga Polizzi (director of design for Rocco Forte Hotels). There will be two presidential suites, but you’ll want to book the one on the 8th floor because it boasts private elevator access and spans 1,185 square feet with two terraces, a sitting room, dining room and study. The hotel will also feature three restaurants and cocktail bars headed by executive chef Fulvio Pierangelini, a stylish rooftop bar with stunning views of Rome, and a two-story spa with a thermal concept and five treatment rooms.


Hotel de la Ville, a Rocco Forte Hotel
Photo: Courtesy Rocco Forte Hotels

The Desert Oasis: Six Senses Shaharut

Opening: Q3 2019

One of the year’s biggest openings is happening in the arid desert in southern Israel, where the closest attraction is the Red Sea, some 50 miles to the south. Set into a dramatic cliff with panoramic views of the desert landscape, Six Senses Shaharut will have 58 suites and villas, including one three-bedroom retreat, when it opens in the third quarter of this year. The villas will be built from local rocks and feature furnishings sourced from local community artisans. The signature restaurant, poolside bar and grill, juice bar and Six Senses’ trademark “Alchemy Bar” will use ingredients harvested from the resort’s own gardens or from local farmers at nearby kibbutzim. The massive spa facilities will include an indoor pool, outdoor lap pool, fully equipped gym, yoga studio with desert views and nail bar.

Worried about what to do in the desert? Six Senses Shaharut will also be a home base for exploration, featuring camel stables with an arena and grooming area, and an open-air amphitheater created from the natural terrain that will transform into a cinema beneath the stars. Activities include off-road driving, mountain climbing, mountain biking, camel safaris, craft workshops, bird-watching, wine tours and a tented Bedouin dining experiences.


Six Senses Shaharut
Photo: Courtesy Six Senses

The Grande Dame Redux: Raffles Singapore

Opening: Mid-2019

While this list is mainly dedicated to new hotels, we couldn’t help including the return of one very important legend. This year, Raffles Singapore, which has been closed to guests for renovations since 2017, will mark its much-anticipated grand reopening with a mid-year unveiling of its 115 suites (an increase due to the new layout of the hotel) all re-created by Champalimaud Design. The two grand Presidential Suites overlook the tranquil Palm Court and feature private verandas, living rooms and dining rooms that are bedecked with carefully curated antiques and artworks.

New dining concepts will be helmed by a clutch of renowned chefs, from Alain Ducasse (with his first Mediterranean sharing-and-grill concept) to Michelin-three-star chef Anne-Sophie Pic (with her first restaurant in Asia) to Jereme Leung (with a boundary-pushing Chinese restaurant). If that’s not enough, Raffles will reopen with seven other bars and restaurants, including a fresh new take on the beloved Long Bar, which has returned to its original home in the Arcade.


Raffles Singapore
Photo: Courtesy Raffles

The Over-the-Top Adventure: The Lodge at Blue Sky

Opening: May 2019

Luxury coupled with the great outdoors is hard to do well. But this year, two new properties are challenging that notion. The first, Blackberry Mountain- a sophomore property from the family behind Tennessee’s famous Blackberry Farm- will open this February. The second- and the one that has us most excited- is The Lodge at Blue Sky, an Auberge Resorts Collection property set to open in Utah’s secluded Wasatch Mountains this May.

There will be no glamping at Blue Sky: The lodge will have 46 well-appointed rooms and suites including the plush Creek Houses- spacious, freestanding accommodations situated along Alexander Creek (which also happens to be the property’s main water source). But it’s what’s happening outdoors that will beckon most, with activities like fly-fishing, horseback riding, snowshoeing and skiing offered across the property’s 3,500 acres and beyond. Extra thrilling is a partnership with helicopter outfitter CloudVeil allowing guests to partake in unforgettable heli-skiing and heli-snowboarding on some of North America’s most iconic peaks.

Post-activity, guests can escape to the Auberge Spa, replenish at the signature restaurant supplied by the 1.5-acre farm, or book the property’s yurt for a bonfire-fueled marshmallow-roasting session. Our favourite part? The on-site Saving Gracie Equine Healing Foundation where guests can work with rescued horses and cattle.


The Lodge at Blue Sky, Auberge Resorts Collection
Photo: Courtesy Auberge Resorts Collection

The Bali Alternative: Lelewatu Resort Sumba

Opening: April 2019

As Bali becomes more and more overcrowded, travellers- and hotel owners- are looking to other islands in Indonesia’s archipelago of unspoiled islands. Enter Sumba, a tropical and relatively unknown paradise with remote beaches, world-class surf, lush jungles and an enthralling local culture. Come this April, the idyllic isle will welcome Lelewatu Resort Sumba, a member of the Preferred Hotel & Resorts set on a cliffside overlooking a private lagoon and the Indian Ocean. Scattered over 10 acres of untouched land, the resort’s 27 stunning villas will be filled with authentic Sumbanese wooden interiors, hand-woven ikat fabrics, indoor marble baths, and private balconies and pools. Guests can sample local delicacies at two gourmet restaurants, be pampered at the Maraga Spa and experience a host of activities including yoga, horseback riding, trekking, and exploring the beautiful coastline, traditional villages, sacred lakes, and waterfalls. Bali who?


Lelewatu Resort Sumba
Photo: Courtesy Lelewatu Resort Sumba

The Wellness Evolution: Miraval Austin

Opening: January 2019

Speaking of horses, Texas’s wild-‘n’-free Hill Country is about to lure wellness seekers from far and wide with the imminent arrival this January of the Miraval Austin. The 220-acre property- Miraval Group’s first resort outside of its lauded flagship property in Arizona- will combine signature offerings from the Arizona property with exclusive only-in-Austin programs and spa treatments. The retreat will include 117 rooms and suites, a 21,000-square-foot Life in Balance Spa, a 4,500-square-foot Body Mindfulness Center, a treetop challenge course, a kitchen for culinary classes and two infinity pools. Skin-care products will be exclusive to the resort: Laurel Shaffer, whose brand Laurel is hyper-focused on natural ingredients, came to Austin from California to develop products special for the property. The resort has also partnered with the nearby Cypress Creek Ranch, where equine therapy and other experiences are offered. Most of all, we’re eager to check out the resort’s culinary offerings, which are poised to seriously upgrade spa food (finally!) by tapping into Austin’s thriving local food scene and focussing on the region’s natural bounty.


Miraval Austin
Photo: Courtesy Miraval Austin

The Next-Level Safari: Sonop

Opening: Summer 2019

Namibia is already on fire, with recent openings from esteemed safari-maker Wilderness and top-notch newcomer Natural Selection. But this summer, the plot thickens in the arid Karas Region, where Sonop, an exclusive lodge set in the southern extremity of the Namib Desert, will open its doors. The brainchild of French hotelier Arnaud Zannier, the lodge will be constructed atop dramatic boulders, with 10 rooms that are richly furnished with antiques made of superior materials, telescopes, colourful carpets and precious wood. Bathrooms- often an afterthought at camps in these parts- will be built around central copper bathtubs and feature rain showers. Also on hand will be a cocktail-and-cigar lounge with a billiard table, a spa, a fitness centre and a heated outdoor infinity pool, all facing the desert’s vastness. Of course, the real reason you’ll visit Sonop is the surrounding desert; the lodge will take guests on 4×4 dune drives and horseback safari rides to glimpse everything from leopards and cheetahs to baboons.


Sonop
Photo: Courtesy Zannier Hotels

The Fresh City Hotel: 1 Hotel West Hollywood

Opening: Spring 2019

We’ve been waiting to see what’s next for the 1 Hotel brand, which currently has two properties in New York City and one in Miami. Turns out, they’ve been working on several new locations, including hotels in Los Cabos, Mexico; Hanalei Bay, Hawaii; and Haitang Bay (China) as well as this gem in West Hollywood, which is a takeover and revamp of the old Jeremy hotel. The 1 Hotel West Hollywood, which will open its doors this spring, will sport floor-to-ceiling windows that frame sweeping views of Los Angeles in its 285 rooms and suites.

Of course, 1 Hotels are known for taking inspiration from nature so it’s no surprise that native greenery, reclaimed wood, clay tones, marble bathrooms and organic cotton sheets are all part of the new look. In a nod to the brand’s South Beach property, a rooftop pool deck is poised to become a new “it” spot for hopping WeHo. And for those who need to escape the smog, the hotel has thoughtfully connected its two towers with “the Canyon,” a granite pathway running between reclaimed-wood planters that houses olive trees and wild, native plants.


1 Hotel West Hollywood
Photo: Courtesy 1 Hotels

The Otherworldly Escape: Kachi Lodge

Opening: April 2019

Last year, it became clear that round was the new black. Forget four walls, a floor and ceiling- the hottest trend in adventure travel is bubbles. This April, the geodesic look is heading south to Bolivia’s Uyuni salt flats, with the opening of Kachi Lodge, a six-room (or, rather, six-bubble) camp located at the base of the Tunupa volcano. Inside the orbs is surprisingly spacious—there’s even space for a private bathroom and wood-fired stove- but the real decoration is the panoramic views of salt flats that stretch in every direction. There’s even an observatory attached to the main dome for maximum sky views of the salar.

Of course, you can’t stay in your bubble forever- especially in this ethereal setting. Activities at Kachi will include hiking (to either a nearby cactus-covered island or the volcano base), mountain biking and visiting the village of Coquesa and its ancient mummy caves.


Kachi Lodge
Photo: © Amazing Escapes

The Airport Hotel You’ll Actually Want to Stay In: TWA Hotel

Opening: Spring 2019

For the first time ever, we might actually stay at the airport on our next visit to New York City. John F. Kennedy International Airport’s TWA Hotel, opening this spring, isn’t your typical airport pit stop. It has been in the making for years and will be housed in the iconic TWA Terminal built by legendary architect Eero Saarinen in 1962. The terminal was designated a landmark in 1994 but ceased operations in 2001, until MCR, one of the largest hotel operators in the United States, stepped in.

Connected to JetBlue Terminal 5 via the flight tubes made famous by the 2002 film Catch Me If You Can, the hotel’s 512 rooms will take you back to the terminal’s heyday with authentic Saarinen-designed mid-century modern Knoll furnishings, martini carts, vintage rotary phones and terrazzo-tiled bathrooms with Hollywood-inspired vanities. The massive property will also feature 50,000 square feet of event space, a 10,000-square-foot fitness center, a rooftop pool and observation deck, a museum devoted to TWA and the mid-century modern design movement and six restaurants and eight bars, including a recently announced Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurant called Paris Café. Plus, you’ll be able to have a cocktail on an actual airplane while still on the ground: The hotel recently got its hands on a 1958 Lockheed Constellation L-1649A Starliner airplane called Connie that will be transformed into a one-of-a-kind cocktail lounge and event space. Wheels up!


TWA Hotel
Photo: Max Touhey

The Last Untouched Island: Awei Pila

Opening: January 2019

Discovering the undiscovered is becoming harder and harder. But on a near-deserted island in the Mergui Archipelago of Myanmar, which was until recently off-limits to all visitors, Awei Pila is that rare place that has remained truly unknown. Set to open this month, the resort will share the island of Pila with a community of some 70 Moken fishermen—and no one else. Nestled among stunning atolls and coral reefs within an archipelago of 800 islets, most of which are uninhabited and untouched, this is one of the world’s last virgin paradises.

Awei Pila will have 24 tented villas fronting a white-sand beach, an open-air restaurant and a spa. The island has a single source of fresh water, 10 sandy beaches, a thriving bird population (including hornbills) and coves brimming with fish, dugongs and turtles. With sustainability and eco-consciousness at its core to protect the island, Awei Pila is a plastics-free resort with a resident marine biologist overseeing sustainable policies.


Awei Pila
Photo: Courtesy Awei Pila

The Historic Haunt: Monkey Island Estate

Opening: February 2019

A luxury island hotel in the middle of England? ’Tis true. Perched on the River Thames in the historic village of Bray in the English countryside, the 800-year-old Monkey Island Estate, which will be a member of Small Luxury Hotels, is undergoing a complete renovation by YTL Hotels and Champalimaud Design.

Monkey Island, which was founded by monks (not monkeys) and has been frequented by monarchs, aristocrats, writers, and artists throughout its storied history, will be restored and redesigned to celebrate its lore and history. We’re most eager for the floating spa—the first of its kind in Britain—on a custom-built barge featuring a wheelhouse reception, Elixir Bar, and three treatment rooms. In a partnership with the British spa brand Moss of the Isles, the signature treatment will be the Monks Elixir–Botany and Beauty, which begins with a cup of a monk-brewed ancient herbal tonic followed by a full-body massage enhanced by herbal packs to relieve stiffness. Accommodations include 38 boutique bedrooms, three deluxe suites and six individual residences spread across the seven acres of stunning grounds. Another reason to go to Bray? It’s the only village in the world that lays claim to two Michelin-three-star restaurants: Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck and The Waterside Inn by Alain Roux.

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Omega Reveals a New Speedmaster Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympics

Your first look at the new Speedmaster Chronoscope, designed in the colour theme of the Paris Olympics.

By Josh Bozin 26/04/2024

The starters are on the blocks, and with less than 100 days to go until the Paris 2024 Olympics, luxury Swiss watchmaker Omega was bound to release something spectacular to mark its bragging rights as the official timekeeper for the Summer Games. Enter the new 43mm Speedmaster Chronoscope, available in new colourways—gold, black, and white—in line with the colour theme of the Olympic Games in Paris this July.

So, what do we get in this nicely-wrapped, Olympics-inspired package? Technically, four new podium-worthy iterations of the iconic Speedmaster.

Omega

The new versions present handsomely in stainless steel or 18K Moonshine Gold—the brand’s proprietary yellow gold known for its enduring shine. The steel version comes with an anodised aluminium bezel and a stainless steel bracelet or vintage-inspired perforated leather strap. The Moonshine Gold iteration boasts a ceramic bezel, and will most likely appease Speedy collectors, particularly those with an affinity for Omega’s long-standing role as stewards of the Olympic Games, since 1932.

Notably, each watch bears an attractive white opaline dial; the background to three dark grey timing scales in a 1940s “snail” design. Of course, this Speedmaster Chronoscope is special in its own right. For the most part, the overall look of the Speedmaster has remained true to its 1957 origins. This Speedmaster, however, adopts Omega’s Chronoscope design from 2021, including the storied tachymeter scale, along with a telemeter, and pulsometer scale—essentially, three different measurements on the wrist.

While the technical nature of this timepiece won’t interest some, others will revel in its theatrics; turn over each timepiece and instead of finding a transparent crystal caseback, there is a stamped medallion featuring a mirror-polished Paris 2024 logo, along with “Paris 2024” and the Olympic Rings—a subtle nod to this year’s games.

Powering this Olympiad offering—and ensuring the greatest level of accuracy—is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 9908 and 9909, certified by METAS.

Omega

A Speedmaster to commemorate the Olympic Games was as sure a bet as Mondo Deplatntis winning gold in the men’s pole vault—especially after Omega revealed its Olympic-edition Seamaster Diver 300m “Paris 2024” last year—but they have delivered a great addition to the legacy collection, without gimmickry.

However, at the top end of the scale, you’re looking at 85K for the all-gold Speedmaster, which is a lot of money for a watch of this stature. In comparison, the immaculate Speedmaster Moonshine gold with a sun-brushed green PVD “step” dial is 15K cheaper, albeit without the Chronoscope complications.

The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope in stainless steel with a leather strap is priced at $15,725; stainless steel with steel bracelet at $16,275; 18k Moonshine Gold on leather strap $54,325; and 18k Moonshine Gold with matching gold bracelet $85,350, available at Omega boutiques now.

Discover the collection here

 

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Here’s What Goes Into Making Jay-Z’s $1,800 Champagne

We put Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4 under the microsope.

By Mike Desimone And Jeff Jenssen 23/04/2024

In our quest to locate the most exclusive and exciting wines for our readers, we usually ask the question, “How many bottles of this were made?” Often, we get a general response based on an annual average, although many Champagne houses simply respond, “We do not wish to communicate our quantities.” As far as we’re concerned, that’s pretty much like pleading the Fifth on the witness stand; yes, you’re not incriminating yourself, but anyone paying attention knows you’re probably guilty of something. In the case of some Champagne houses, that something is making a whole lot of bottles—millions of them—while creating an illusion of rarity.

We received the exact opposite reply regarding Armand de Brignac Blanc de Noirs Assemblage No. 4. Yasmin Allen, the company’s president and CEO, told us only 7,328 bottles would be released of this Pinot Noir offering. It’s good to know that with a sticker price of around $1,800, it’s highly limited, but it still makes one wonder what’s so exceptional about it.

Known by its nickname, Ace of Spades, for its distinctive and decorative metallic packaging, Armand de Brignac is owned by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy and Jay-Z and is produced by Champagne Cattier. Each bottle of Assemblage No. 4 is numbered; a small plate on the back reads “Assemblage Four, [X,XXX]/7,328, Disgorged: 20 April, 2023.” Prior to disgorgement, it spent seven years in the bottle on lees after primary fermentation mostly in stainless steel with a small amount in concrete. That’s the longest of the house’s Champagnes spent on the lees, but Allen says the winemaking team tasted along the way and would have disgorged earlier than planned if they’d felt the time was right.

Chef de cave, Alexandre Cattier, says the wine is sourced from some of the best Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir–producing villages in the Champagne region, including Chigny-les-Roses, Verzenay, Rilly-la-Montagne, Verzy, Ludes, Mailly-Champagne, and Ville-sur-Arce in the Aube département. This is considered a multi-vintage expression, using wine from a consecutive trio of vintages—2013, 2014, and 2015—to create an “intense and rich” blend. Seventy percent of the offering is from 2015 (hailed as one of the finest vintages in recent memory), with 15 percent each from the other two years.

This precisely crafted Champagne uses only the tête de cuvée juice, a highly selective extraction process. As Allen points out, “the winemakers solely take the first and freshest portion of the gentle cuvée grape press,” which assures that the finished wine will be the highest quality.  Armand de Brignac used grapes from various sites and three different vintages so the final product would reflect the house signature style. This is the fourth release in a series that began with Assemblage No. 1. “Testing different levels of intensity of aromas with the balance of red and dark fruits has been a guiding principle between the Blanc de Noirs that followed,” Allen explains.

The CEO recommends allowing the Assemblage No. 4 to linger in your glass for a while, telling us, “Your palette will go on a journey, evolving from one incredible aroma to the next as the wine warms in your glass where it will open up to an extraordinary length.” We found it to have a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry and Mission fig with hints of river rock; as it opened, notes of toasted almond and just-baked brioche became noticeable. With striking acidity and a vein of minerality, it has luscious nectarine, passion fruit, candied orange peel, and red plum flavors with touches of beeswax and a whiff of baking spices on the enduring finish. We enjoyed our bottle with a roast chicken rubbed with butter and herbes de Provence and savored the final, extremely rare sip with a bit of Stilton. Unfortunately, the pairing possibilities are not infinite with this release; there are only 7,327 more ways to enjoy yours.

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Bill Henson Show Opens at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery

Dark, grainy and full of shadows Bill Henson’s latest show draws on 35 mm colour film shot in New York City in 1989.

By Belinda Aucott-christie 20/04/2024

Bill Henson is one of Australia’s best-known contemporary photographers. When a show by this calibre of artist opens here, the art world waits with bated breath to see what he will unveil.

This time, he presents a historically important landscape series that chronicles a time in New York City that no longer exists. It’s a nostalgic trip back in time, a nocturnal odyssey through the frenetic, neon-lit streets of a long-lost America.

Known for his chiaroscuro style, Henson’s cinematic photographs often transform his subject into ambiguous objects of beauty. This time round, the show presents a mysterious walk through the streets of Manhattan, evoking a seedy, yet beautiful vision of the city. 

Bill Henson Untitled, 1989. Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley Gallery
Installation shot of Bill Henson’s show,’The Liquid Night’ at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery.

Relying on generative gaps, these landscapes result from Henson mining his archive of negatives and manipulating them to produce a finished print. Sometimes, they are composed by a principle of magnification, with Henson honing in on details, and sometimes, they are created through areas of black being expanded to make the scene more cinematic and foreboding. Like silence in a film or the pause in a pulse, the black suggests the things you can’t see. 

Bill Henson, Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery
Bill Henson, Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery
Bill Henson Untitled, 1989 Archival inkjet pigment print 127 x 180 cm Edition of 5 + 2AP Courtesy of Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery

Henson’s illustrious career has spanned four decades and was memorably marred by controversy over a series of nude adolescent photographs shown in 2008, which made him front-page news for weeks. This series of portraits made Henson the subject of a police investigation during which no offence was found. 

In recent years, Henson has been a sharp critic of cancel culture, encouraging artists to contribute something that will have lasting value and add to the conversation, rather than tearing down the past.

Untitled 2/1, 1990-91 from the series Paris Opera Project type C photograph 127 x 127 cm; series of 50 Edition of 10 + AP 2

His work deals with the liminal space between the mystical and the real, the seen and unseen, the boundary between youth and adulthood.

His famous Paris Opera Project, 1990-91, pictured above, is similarly intense as the current show, dwelling on the border between the painterly and the cinematic.

Bill Henson’s ‘The Liquid Night’ runs until 11 May 2024 at Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery.

Roslyn Oxley9 Gallery, 8 Soudan Ln, Paddington NSW; roslynoxley9.com.au 

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Polar Opposites

A journey north to one of the harshest, remotest spots on Earth couldn’t be more luxurious. 

By Michael Verdon 18/04/2024

A century ago, an expedition to the North Pole involved dog sleds and explorers in heavy, fur-lined clothes, windburned and famished after weeks of trudging across ice floes, finally planting their nations’ flags in the barren landscape. These days, if you’re a tourist, the only way to reach 90 degrees north latitude, the geographic North Pole, is aboard Le Commandant Charcot, a six-star hotel mated to a massive, 150-metre ice-breaking hull. 

My wife, Cathy, and I are among the first group of tourists aboard Ponant’s new expedition icebreaker, the world’s only Polar Class 2–rated cruise ship (of seven levels of ice vessel, second only to research and military vessels in ability to manoeuvre in Arctic conditions). Our arrival on July 14 couldn’t be more different from explorer Robert Peary’s on April 6, 1909. On that date, he reported, he staked a small American flag—sewed by his wife—into the Pole, joined by four Inuits and his assistant, Matthew Henson, a Black explorer from Maine who was with Peary on his two previous Arctic expeditions. (Peary’s claim of being first to the Pole was quickly disputed by another American, Frederick Cook, who insisted he’d spent two days there a year earlier. Scholars now view both claims with skepticism.) 

Our 300-plus party’s landing, on Bastille Day, features the captain of the French ship driving around in an all-terrain vehicle with massive wheels and an enormous tricolour flag on the back, guests dressed in stylish orange parkas celebrating on the ice, and La Marseillaise, France’s national anthem, blaring from loudspeakers. After an hour of taking selfies and building snow igloos in the icescape, with temperatures in the relatively balmy low 30s, we head back into our heated sanctuary for mulled wine and freshly baked croissants. Mission accomplished. Flags planted. Now, lunch. 

As a kid, I was fascinated by stories of adventurers trying to reach the North Pole without any means of rescue. In the 19th century, most of their attempts ended in disaster—ships getting trapped in the ice, a hydrogen balloon crashing, even cannibalism. It wasn’t until Cook and Peary reportedly set foot there that the race to the North Pole was really on. Norwegian Roald Amundsen, the first to reach the South Pole, in 1911, is credited with being the first to document a trip over the North Pole, which he did in 1926 in the airship Norge. In 1977, the nuclear-powered icebreaker Arktika became the first surface vessel to make it to the North Pole. Since then, only 18 other ships have completed the voyage. 

Le Commandant Charcot

Visiting the North Pole seemed about as likely for me as walking on the Moon. It wasn’t even on my bucket list. Then came Le Commandant Charcot, which was named after France’s most beloved polar explorer and reportedly cost about US$430 million (around $655 million) to build. The irony of visiting one of the planet’s most remote and inhospitable points while travelling in the lap of luxury doesn’t escape me or anyone else I speak with on the voyage. Danie Ferreira, from Cape Town, South Africa, describes it as “an ensemble of contradictions bordering on the absurd”. Ferreira, who is on board with his wife, Suzette, is a veteran of early-explorer-style high-Arctic journeys, months-long treks involving dog sleds and real toil and suffering. He booked this trip to obtain an official North Pole stamp for an upcoming two-volume collection of his photographs, Out in the Cold, documenting his polar adventures. “Reserving the cabin felt like a betrayal of my expeditionary philosophy,” he says with a laugh. 

Then, like the rest of us, he embraces the contradictions. “This is like the first time I saw the raw artistry of Cirque du Soleil,” he explains. “Everything is beyond my wildest expectations, unrelatable to anything I’ve experienced.”

One of the ship’s scientists tests the ice with a passenger.

The 17-day itinerary launches from the Norwegian settlement of Longyearbyen, Svalbard, the northernmost town in the Arctic Circle, and heads 1,186 nautical miles to the North Pole, then back again. As a floating hotel, the vessel is exceptional: 123 balconied staterooms and suites, the most expensive among them duplexes with butler service (prices range from around $58,000 to $136,000 per person, double occupancy); a spa with a sauna, massage therapists, and aestheticians; a gym and heated indoor pool. The boat weighs more than 35,000 tons, enabling it to break ice floes like “a chocolate bar into little pieces, rather than slice through them”, according to Captain Patrick Marchesseau. Six-metre-wide stainless-steel propellers, he adds, were designed to “chew ice like a blender”. 

Marchesseau, a tall, lanky, 40-ish mariner from Brittany, impeccable in his navy uniform but rocking royal-blue boat shoes, proves to be a charming host. Never short of a good quip, he’s one of three experienced ice captains who alternate at the helm of Charcot throughout the year. He began piloting Ponant ships through drifting ice floes in Antarctica in 2009, when he took the helm of Le Diamant, Ponant’s first expedition vessel. “An epic introduction,” Marchesseau calls those early voyages, but the isolated, icebound North Pole aboard a larger, more complicated vessel is potentially an even thornier challenge. “We’ll first sail east where the ice is less concentrated and then enter the pack at 81 degrees,” he tells a lecture hall filled with passengers on day one. “We don’t plan to stop until we get to the North Pole.” 

Around us, the majority of the other 101 guests are older French couples; there are also a few extended families, some other Europeans, mostly German and Dutch, as well as 10 Americans. Among the supporting cast are six research scientists and 221 staff, including 18 naturalist guides from a variety of countries. 

The first six days are more about the journey than the destination. Cathy and I settle into our comfortable stateroom, enjoy the ocean views from our balcony, make friends with other guests and naturalists, frequent the spa, and indulge in the contemporary French cuisine at Nuna, which is often jarred by ice passing under the hull, as well as at the more casual Sila (Inuit for “sky”). There are the usual cruise events: the officers’ gala, wine pairings, daily French pastries, Broadway-style shows, opera singers and concert pianists. Initially, I worry about “Groundhog Day” setting in, but once we hit patchy ice floes on day two, it’s clear that the polar party is on. The next day, we’re ensconced in the ice pack. 

Veterans of Arctic journeys immediately feel at home. Ferreira, often found on the observation deck 15 metres above the ice with his long-lensed cameras, is in his element snapping different patterns and colours of the frozen landscape. “It feels like combining low-level flying with an out-of-body experience,” he says. “Whenever the hull shudders against the ice, I have a reality check.” 

Spotting a small colony of penguins. IMAGE: Ponant

“I came back because I love this ice,” adds American Gin Millsap, who with her husband, Jim, visited the North Pole in 2015 aboard the Russian nuclear icebreaker Fifty Years of Victory, which for obvious reasons is no longer a viable option for Americans and many Europeans. “I love the peace, beauty and calmness.” 

It is easy to bliss out on the endless barren vistas, constantly morphing into new shapes, contours and shades of white as the weather moves from bright sunshine to howling snowstorms—sometimes within the course of a few hours. I spend a lot of time on the cold, windswept bow, looking at the snow patterns, ridges and rivers flowing within the pale landscape as the boat crunches through the ice. It feels like being in a black-and-white movie, with no colours except the turquoise bottoms of ice blocks overturned by the boat. Beautiful, lonely, mesmerising. 

Rather than a solid landmass, the Arctic ice pack is actually millions of square kilometres of ice floes, slowly pushed around by wind and currents. The size varies according to season: this past winter, the ice was at its fifth-lowest level on record, encompassing 14.6 million square kilometres, while during our cruise it was 4.7 million square kilometres, the 10th-lowest summer number on record. There are myriad ice types—young ice, pancake ice, ice cake, brash ice, fast ice—but the two that our ice pilot, Geir-Martin Leinebø, cares about are first-year ice and old ice. The thinness of the former provides the ideal route to the Pole, while the denseness of the aged variety can result in three-to-eight-metre-high ridges that are potentially impassable. Leinebø is no novice: in his day job, he’s the captain of Norway’s naval icebreaker, KV Svalbard, the first Norwegian vessel to reach the North Pole, in 2019. 

Atlantic puffin, typically seen along the coast of Svalbard.

It’s not a matter of just pointing the boat due north and firing up the engine. Leinebø zigzags through the floes. A morning satellite feed and special software aid in determining the best route; the ship’s helicopter sometimes scouts 65 or so kilometres ahead, and there’s a sonar called the Sea Ice Monitoring System (SIMS). But mostly Leinebø uses his eyes. “You look for the weakest parts of the ice—you avoid the ridges because that means thickness and instead look for water,” he says. “If the ‘water sky’ in the distance is dark, it’s reflecting water like a mirror, so you head in that direction.” 

Everyone on the bridge is surprised by the lack of multi-year ice, but with more than a hint of disquietude. Though we don’t have to ram our way through frozen ridges, the advance of climate change couldn’t be more apparent. Environmentalists call the Arctic ice sheet the canary in the coal mine of the planet’s climate change for good reason: it is happening here first. “It’s not right,” mutters Leinebø. “There’s just too much open water for July. Really scary.” 

The Arctic ice sheet has shrunk to about half its 1985 size, and as both mariners and scientists on board note, the quality of the ice is deteriorating. “It’s happening faster than our models predicted,” says Marisol Maddox, senior arctic analyst at the Polar Institute of the Woodrow Wilson International Center for Scholars. “We’re seeing major events like Greenland’s ice sheet melting and sliding into the ocean—that wasn’t forecasted until 2070.” The consensus had been that the Arctic would be ice-free by 2050, but many scientists now expect that day to come in the 2030s. 

That deterioration, it turns out, is why the three teams of scientists are on the voyage—two studying the ice and the other assessing climate change’s impact on plankton. As part of its commitment to sustainability, Ponant has designed two research labs—one wet and one dry—on a lower deck. “We took the advice of many scientists for equipping these labs,” says Hugues Decamus, Charcot’s chief engineer, clearly proud of the nearly US$12 million facilities. 

The combined size of the labs, along with a sonar room, a dedicated server for the scientists, and a meteorological station on the vessel’s top deck, totals 130 square metres—space that could have been used for revenue generation. Ponant also has two staterooms reserved for scientists on each voyage and provides grants for travel expenses. The line doesn’t cherrypick researchers but instead asks the independent Arctic Research Icebreaker Consortium (ARICE) to choose participants based on submissions. 

Birds take flight as passengers explore on a Zodiac excursion.

The idea, says the vessel’s science officer on this voyage, Daphné Buiron, is to make the process transparent and minimise the appearance of greenwashing. “Yes, this alliance may deliver a positive public image for the company, but this ship shows we do real science on board,” she says. The labs will improve over time, adds Decamus, as the ship amasses more sophisticated equipment. 

Research scientists and tourist vessels don’t typically mix. The former, wary of becoming mascots for the cruise lines’ sustainability marketing efforts, and cognisant of the less-than-pristine footprint of many vessels, tend to be wary. The cruise lines, for their part, see scientists as potentially high maintenance when paying customers should be the priority. But there seemed to be a meeting of the minds, or at least a détente, on Le Commandant Charcot. 

“We discuss this a lot and are aware of the downsides, but also the positives,” says Franz von Bock und Polach, head of the institute for ship structural design and analysis at Hamburg University of Technology, specialising in the physics of sea ice. Not only does Charcot grant free access to these remote areas, but the ship will also collect data on the same route multiple times a year with equipment his team leaves on board, offering what scientists prize most: repeatability. “One transit doesn’t have much value,” he says. “But when you measure different seasons, regions and years, you build up a more complex picture.” So, more than just a research paper: forecasts of ice conditions for long-term planning by governments as the Arctic transforms. 

Nils Haëntjens, from the University of Maine, is analysing five-millilitre drops of water on a high-tech McLane IFCB microscope. “The instrument captures more than 250,000 images of phytoplankton along the latitudinal transect,” he says. Charcot has doors in the wet lab that allow the scientists to take water samples, and in the bow, inlets take in water without contaminating it. Two freezers can preserve samples for further research back in university labs. 

Even though the boat won’t stop, the captain and chief engineer clearly want to make the science missions work. Marchesseau dispatches the helicopter with the researchers and their gear 100 kilometres ahead, where they take core samples and measurements. I spot them in their red snowsuits, pulling sleds on an ice floe, as the boat passes. Startled to see living-colour humans on the ice after days of monochrome, I feel a pang of jealousy as I head for a caviar tasting. 

The only other humans we encounter on the journey north are aboard Fifty Years of Victory, the Russian icebreaker. The 160-metre orange- and-black leviathan reached the North Pole a day earlier—its 59th visit—and is on its way back to Murmansk. It’s a classic East meets West moment: the icebreaker, launched just after the collapse of the Soviet Union, meeting the new standard of polar luxury. 

The evening before Bastille Day, Le Commandant Charcot arrives at the North Pole. Because of the pinpoint precision of the GPS, Marchesseau has to navigate back and forth for about 20 minutes—with a bridge full of passengers hushing each other so as not to distract him—until he finds 90 degrees north. That final chaotic approach to the top of the world in the grey, windswept landscape looks like a kid’s Etch A Sketch on the chartplotter, but it is met with rousing cheers. The next morning, with good visibility and light winds, we spill out onto the ice for the celebration, followed by a polar plunge. 

As guests pose in front of flags and mile markers for major cities, the naturalist guides, armed with rifles, establish a wide perimeter to guard against polar bears. The fearless creatures are highly intelligent, with razor-sharp teeth, hooked claws and the ability to sprint at 40 km/h. Males average about three metres tall and weigh around 700 kilos. They are loners that will kill anything—including other bears and even their own cubs. Cathy and I walk around the far edges of the perimeter to enjoy some solitude. Looking out over the white landscape, I know this is a milestone. But it feels odd that getting here didn’t involve any sweat or even a modicum of discomfort. 

Kayaking around an ice floe.

The rest of the week is an entirely different trip. On the return south, we see a huge male polar bear ambling on the ice, looking over his shoulder at us. It is our first sighting of the Arctic’s apex predator, and everyone crowds the observation lounge with long-lensed cameras. The next day, we see another male, this one smaller, running away from the ship. “They have many personalities,” says Steiner Aksnes, head of the expedition team, who has led scientists and film crews in the Arctic for 25 years. We see a dozen on the return to Svalbard, where 3,000 are scattered across the archipelago, outnumbering human residents. 

The last five days we make six stops on different islands, travelling by Zodiac from Charcot to various beaches. On Lomfjorden, as we look on a hundred yards from shore, a mother polar bear protects her two cubs while a young male hovers in the background. On a Zodiac ride off Alkefjellet, the air is alive with birds, including tens of thousands of Brünnich’s guillemots as well as glaucous gulls and kittiwakes, which nest in that island’s cliffs, while a young male polar bear munches on a ring seal, chin glistening red. 

On this part of the trip, the expedition team, mostly 30-something, free-spirited scientists whose areas of expertise range from botany to alpine trekking to whales, lead hikes across different landscapes. The jam-packed schedule sometimes involves three activities per day and includes following the reindeer on Palanderbukta, seeing a colony of 200 walruses on Kapp Lee, hiking the black tundra of Burgerbukta (boasting 3.8-cm-tall willows—said to be the smallest trees in the world and the largest on Svalbard—plus mosquitoes!), watching multiple species of whales breaching offshore, and kayaking the ice floes of Ekmanfjorden. Svalbard is a protected wilderness area, and the cruise lines tailor their schedules so vessels don’t overlap, giving visitors the impression they are setting foot on virgin land. 

Chances to experience that sense of discovery and wonder, even slightly stage-managed ones, are dwindling along with the ice sheet and endangered wildlife. If a stunning trip to a frozen North Pole is on your bucket list, the time to go is now.

Suite bedroom with sliding doors leading to private terrace.

PARADIGM SHIP

For those studying polar ice, a berth aboard Le Commandant Charcot is like a winning lottery ticket. “This cruise ship is one of the few resources scientists can use, because nothing else can get there,” says G. Mark Miller, CEO of research-vessel builder Greenwater Marine Sciences Offshore (GMSO) and a former ship captain for the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). “Then factor in 80 percent of scientists who want to go to sea, can’t, because of the shortage of research vessels.” 

Both Ponant and Viking have designed research labs aboard new expedition vessels as part of their sustainability initiatives. “Remote areas like Antarctica need more data—the typical research is just single data points,” says Damon Stanwell-Smith, Ph.D., head of science and sustainability at Viking. “Every scientist says more information is needed.”  The twin sisterships Viking Octantis and Viking Polaris, which travel to Antarctica, Patagonia, the Great Lakes and Canada, have identical 35-square-metre labs, separated into wet and dry areas and fitted out with research equipment. In hangars below are military-grade rigid-hulled inflatables and two six-person yellow submersibles (the pair on Octantis are named John and Paul, while Polaris’s are George and Ringo). Unlike Ponant, Viking doesn’t have an independent association choose scientists for each voyage. Instead, it partners with the University of Cambridge, the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, and NOAA, which send their researchers to work with Viking’s onboard science officers. 

The cigar lounge which also serves speciality spirits.

“Some people think marine research is sticking some kids on a ship to take measurements,” says Stanwell-Smith. “But we know we can do first-rate science—not spin.”  Other cruise lines are also embracing sustainability initiatives, with coral-reef-restoration projects and water-quality measurements, usually in partnership with universities. Just about every vessel has “citizen-scientist” research programs allowing guests the opportunity to count birds or pick up discarded plastic on beaches. So far, Ponant and Viking are the only lines with serious research labs. Ponant is adding science officers to other vessels in its fleet. As part of the initiatives, scientists deliver onboard lectures and sometimes invite passengers to assist in their research. 

Inneq, the ship’s open-air bar.

Given the shortage of research vessels, Stanwell-Smith thinks this passenger-funded system will coexist nicely with current NGO- and government-owned ships. “This could be a new paradigm for exploring the sea,” he says. “Maybe the next generation of research vessels will look like ours.”

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Watch of the Week: the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon

The new release claims the throne as the world’s thinnest Tourbillon.

By Josh Bozin 19/04/2024

Piaget, the watchmaker’s watchmaker, has once again redefined the meaning of “ultra-thin” thanks to its newest masterpiece, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon—the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch.

In the world of high-watchmaking where thin is never thin enoughlook at the ongoing battle between Piaget, Bulgari, and Richard Mille for the honours—Piaget caused a furore at Watches & Wonders in Geneva when it unveiled its latest feat to coincide with the Maison’s 150th year anniversary.

Piaget
Piaget

Piaget claims that the new Altiplano is “shaped by a quest for elegance and driven by inventiveness”, and while this might be true, it’s clear that the Maison’s high-watchmaking divisions in La Côte-aux-Fées and Geneva are also looking to end the conversation around who owns the ultra-thin watchmaking category.

The new Altiplano pushes the boundaries of horological ingenuity 67 years after Piaget invented its first ultra-thin calibre—the revered 9P—and six years after it presented the world’s then-thinnest watch, the Altiplano Ultimate Concept. Now, with the release of this unrivalled timepiece at just 2mm thick—the same as its predecessor, yet now housing the beat of a flying tourbillon, prized by watchmaking connoisseurs—you can’t help but marvel at its ultra-thin mastery, whether the timepiece is to your liking or not.

Piaget
Piaget

In comparison, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon was 3.95mm thick when unveiled in 2020, which seems huge on paper compared to what Piaget has been able to produce. But to craft a watch as thin and groundbreaking as its predecessor, now with an added flying tourbillon complication, the whole watchmaking process had to be revalued and reinvented.

“We did far more than merely add a tourbillon,” says Benjamin Comar, Piaget CEO. “We reinvented everything.”

After three years of R&D, trial and error—and a redesign of 90 percent of the original Altiplano Ultimate Concept components—the 2024 version needs to be held and seen to be believed. The end product certainly isn’t a watch for the everyday watch wearer—although Piaget will tell you otherwise—but in many ways, the company didn’t conjure a timepiece like the Altiplano as a profit-seeking exercise. Instead, overcoming such an arduous and technical watchmaking feat proves that Piaget can master the flying tourbillon in such a whimsical fashion and, in the process, subvert the current state-of-the-art technical principles by making an impactful visual—and technical—statement.

The only question left to ask is, what’s next, Piaget?

Piaget
Piaget

Model: Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon 150th Anniversary
Diameter: 41.5 mm
Thickness: 2 mm (crystal included)
Material: M64BC cobalt alloy, blue PVD -treated
Dial: Monobloc dial; polished round and baton indices, Bâton-shaped hand for the minutes Monobloc disc with a hand for the hours
Water resistance: 20m

Movement: Calibre 970P-UC, one-minute peripheral tourbillon
Winding: Hand-wound
Functions: hours, minutes, and small seconds (time-only)
Power reserve: 40 hours

Availability: Limited production, not numbered
Price: Price on request

 

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