Eight Of The Best From Watches & Wonders
Our pick of the best and boldest from the ‘new’ international fair.
SIHH morphed into Watches & Wonders which morphed into a publicly ‘open’ digital showcase of some of the world’s finest watchmakers.
Spend some time with these eight standouts.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
VC has gone for gold in this formerly Olympic year, alongside a set of wildly complicated pieces such as the La Musique du Temps Tempo – a one of a kind chiming watch with some 19 complications and 600 components set within a 39mm case.
Still, the most eye-catching of the 2020 releases is the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The 8.1mm thick 41.5mm wide case manages to fit some 276 components, boasting a 40-hour power reserve and 22-carat gold rotor.
Available now and strapped to a completely gold bracelet with blue dial for approx. $136,750.
Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune
The 2020 update to the already splendidly artistic Arceau L’Heure De La Lune means five new dial options.
Newcomers (still at 43mm) land in two blue-tinted models, one with a dial of Lapis Lazuli and one of hard stone called ‘blue pearl’ (approx. $51,755). The remaining three are made of real meteorite – yes, meteorite. One is Black Sahara meteorite (approx. $84,330), while the others are Lunar (approx. $63,000) and Martian (POA), giving you a taste for life on mars.
Don’t be fooled by its interstellar credentials, it’s still a highly technical collection utilising Hermès in-house movement boasting discs spinning over the dial with two mother of pearl moons, while showing the hours and minutes.
Available in spring.
IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide
This year’s newcomer is a W&W standout – the IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide sporting an IWC first in the form of a moon phase and tide-tracking complication.
The approx. $53,000 timepiece also boasts a double moonphase complication at 12 o’clock, fitted into a 44mm case. The blue rubber and textile straps match the brilliant blue dial and contrast the red gold case and gold-plated hands and markers.
IWC flew the flag for all things Portugieser this year – the Automatic 40 a slightly more slender if handsome piece that embraces the past with the presence of its smaller seconds subdial at six o’clock.
Offered in a wealth of dial colours from $11,230.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Diabolus In Machina
Fans of the bold Swiss master will be pleased with the release of the Excalibur Diabolus In Machina – which dials up (sorry) its watchmaking prowess by cramming a minute repeater and a tourbillon into the same 45mm case.
The watch chimes a once forbidden triad of notes, the ‘Diabolus in Musica’ a forbidden tritone chord while still functioning as a skeletonised tourbillon. Using a patented material, the CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur CCMTM (a powder that is heated into a metal) the watchmaker has achieved intricate, technical and hard-wearing components that can withstand all technical challenges while keeping its sheen.
A unique piece that can be yours for approx. $887,000 – though the clock here is ticking. Be quick.
Panerai Luminor Marina Fibratech 44mm
Beyond being the 70th anniversary of the celebrated Luminor and the release of eight new models with an appealing 70-year warranty period, Panerai has also added a new material to the mix.
‘Fibratech’ is the latest to come out of Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee and is created using mineral basalt fibres of which this Luminor’s 44mm case is made, making the whole piece 60 per cent lighter than steel and resistant to fading and corrosion.
In keeping with the brand’s diving history its also water-resistant to 300 metres and includes Panerai’s patented sportech and rubber strap.
A.Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater With Blue Dial
This utilises the same, frankly bonkers technology, nestled into a 44mm case that first claimed a lot of attention in 2015 – though in 2020 it lands with deep blue colouring and contrasting silver bridges that form a cohesive, modern looking watch.
Limited to only 30 pieces at approx. $754,000 each.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar
A first for JLC and the headline act of its revamped Master Control Line, the Master Control Chronograph Calendar boasts a whole new movement – the in-house calibre JLC 759.
Like Anouk Aimee in A Man and a Woman (look it up!), this is a piece that immediately engages, drawing you in via an easy design with calendar functions at six and 12 o’clock, chronograph functions sat at three and nine o’clock and all neatly working together within the 40mm case.
Available in stainless steel (approx. $22,500) and rose gold (approx. $40,000). We’ll take the former, thanks.
The Speake-Marin One & Two Openworked Flying Tourbillon
Not one, but two new titanium flying tourbillons were introduced by Speak-Marin over the weekend. Available in both 38mm and 42mm, the raw, open-worked design is lightweight, thanks to the titanium material used for the case, and is perhaps more wearable than it’s skeletonised, tourbillon counterparts at 38mm.
Alligator leather on thew wrist further heightens thew elements of elegance, all available from approx $102,600 from June.