The Most Jaw-Dropping New Jewellery Of 2020

Classic designs, modern combinations and lots and lots of emeralds.

By Paige Reddinger 20/08/2020

While Boucheron most aptly captured the mood of the season in its wildly imaginative high-jewellery collection that used everything from algorithms to NASA-employed materials to evoke the escapist and fleeting quality of nature, other jewellers turned out several jaw-dropping creations that would be at home in any museum-worthy collection. Emeralds largely set the tone for the year, while onyx, turquoise and pearls were favoured as accents to heavy-weight stones. Here are some of the most jaw-dropping pieces to make their way out of the world’s top jewellery ateliers in 2020.

Cartier

Cartier diamond, aquamarine, coral and onyx Panthère Tropicale Watch

Cartier diamond, aquamarine, coral and onyx Panthère Tropicale Watch Courtesy of Cartier

Cartier delivered several pieces that would make anyone drop their silver spoon right onto the floor at a swank soirée. And while there may not be too many occasions at the moment to trot them out for all to see, time will, no doubt, prove them to be a worthy investment. Case in point: A mouth-watering high-jewellery timepiece in yellow gold accented with two large octagonal aquamarines totalling 12.71 carats, flanked by 20.58 carats of two octagonal blue tourmalines surrounded by ribbed coral on one side and brilliant-cut diamonds with flecks of onyx on the other. The dial of the quartz movement is also encrusted in pave diamonds with an onyx marker for 12 o’clock, but no one will be checking the hour when it finally makes its debut on a wrist.

Thanks to the unusual contrast in materials, this piece looks unlike any other high-jewellery watch on the market—and despite what looks like a watermelon motif, its design is actually rooted in Cartier themes that date back to the 1930s. These themes bore fruit during the reign of lauded creative director Jeanne Toussaint. Not only was she known for blending unusual materials and colours, but she was also known for taking Louis Cartier’s panthère theme, which debuted on a watch in 1914, and turning into a 3D brooch for the Duchess of Windsor in 1948. Interestingly, it was also during the Great Depression era when Cartier began to use semi-precious gemstones like aquamarines for the first time. They were, of course, more economical, but the fact that they were offered in a larger variety of geometric cuts also lent to the architectural look of Art Deco jewellery that was en vogue through the ’20s and ’30s. The new Panthère Tropicale is a stunning reinterpretation of the house’s greatest decades of design.

Cartier diamond, sapphire and lapis lazuli Sinopé Necklace

Cartier diamond, sapphire and lapis lazuli Sinopé Necklace Courtesy of Cartier

But the Maison didn’t forgo precious gems. Cartier found five rare matching sapphires totalling 39 carats to adorn its diamond Sinopé necklace, which mimics the flow of water. Peeking through on the top is a glimpse of the lapis lazuli that lines the interior. The necklace has been carefully articulated for movement on the neck so that its waves move easily along the skin. It is part of a suite that also features a matching necklace and earrings.

Cartier rubellite, turquoise and diamond Tovel necklace and earrings

Cartier rubellite, turquoise and diamond Tovel necklace and earrings Maxime Govet

Exercising its knack for extraordinary gems and colour combinations, another standout was the Tovel necklace set in platinum with two pear-shaped cabochon-cut rubellites totalling 32.51 carats, one 13.37-carat oval-shaped cabochon-cut rubellite, and several smaller cabochon-cut rubellites contrasted with turquoise surrounded by pillars of diamonds. It is part of a set that includes matching earrings and in addition to its striking design thought was also put into its versatility. The large rubellite drops can be removed from both the earrings and the necklace and in the case of the latter, it can be attached to the back of the clasp to hang down the back for a full-on display of gems on both sides.

Cartier emerald, diamond and onyx Opheis necklace

Cartier emerald, diamond and onyx Opheis necklace Courtesy of Cartier

Playing further into the appeal of Cartier’s roots in the graphics of the Art Deco period, the Opheis necklace has an interplay of geometries in its snaking collar of onyx and baguette- and brilliant-cut diamonds. Taking the French name for Orpheus, the Greek god of music famous for mastering the Lyre, the necklace coils around the neck just like the bottom of the mythological character’s instrument. Set in white gold, the centrepiece of the necklace is its rectangular-shaped Zambian emerald that tools a whopping 53.94 carats and is surrounded by diamonds totalling 5.42 carats.

Orpheus was also known for trying to lure his wife, Eurydice, back from the dead with his music, but these days a giant emerald rock from Cartier might do the trick instead.

Cindy Chao

Cindy Chao Black Label Emerald Plumule Brooch and Earrings

Cindy Chao Black Label Emerald Plumule Brooch and Earrings MLEVASLOT

Emeralds proved to be among the most exceptional examples in Hong Kong-based jewellery designer Cindy Chao’s collection this season, and with good reason. Chao waited a decade before settling on the perfect setting for a pair of pear-shaped Colombian emeralds, totalling 90-carats, that adorn her stunning green plumule earrings. They come topped off with two briolette-cut brown diamonds weighing 9.6-carats total. The contours are enriched with 456 tsavorites, 7 alexandrites, 547 yellow diamonds and 325 colour-changing garnets to create texture around the feather design. The gems rest on titanium which has been anodized to varying blue-grey and purple-grey tints to highlight the emeralds and add lightness for a weight of just 43 grams for the pair.

A matching brooch decked with 487 fancy-cut emeralds of 172.58 carats was also created to maximize Chao’s treasure trove of the vivid gems. Seventeen of the emeralds are Colombian; the largest, weighing in at 30.06 carats, crowns the piece. Each of the 14 veins of the feather, which are flexible to give movement to the piece, are linked together by a yellow and brown paved diamond stem and adorned along the edges with colour-changing garnets and tsavorites. Also set in titanium, the 15 cm brooch weighs less than 49 grams, which Chao says is less than the weight of two macaroons.

Each piece took around 10,000 hours of work and both are based on Chao’s yellow-diamond Phoenix feather brooch, which sold at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction in Hong Kong in May 2017 for HKD 8,700,000, or approximately $1.5 million according to exchange rates at the time. And this pairing far outshines its predecessor.

Bulgari

Bulgari

Bulgari tourmaline, turquoise, amethyst and diamond ring Courtesy of Bulgari

Green, a colour of renewal and energy, was evidently the go-to this season for the big jewellery houses. At Bulgari, a richly-hued 11.28-carat cushion tourmaline took centre stage in a pink gold ring. It topped off buff-top tourmalines (0.58 carats), turquoise (0.53 carats) and amethysts (1 carat), along with pave-set diamonds (0.58 carats). “This ring is my favourite piece from the collection,” Bulgari creative director, Lucia Silvestri, told Robb Report. “I wanted it for myself. The centre is eleven carats of green tourmaline, I love how that it’s not a green with blue, but rather a green with a hint of yellow, paired with turquoise, amethyst, and rubellite. You can see from afar that it is a Bulgari piece, very modern yet very timeless.”

Bulgari Emerald Star Necklace with Diamonds and Pearls

Bulgari Emerald Star Necklace with Diamonds and Pearls Courtesy of Bulgari

The Italian house elevated emeralds in a necklace inspired by the Sant’Ivo all Sapienza church, one of Borromini’s baroque masterpieces. Design elements of the church’s exterior apex are reflected in the pearls and unusual sassi-cut of the emeralds. Set in white gold, the necklace has 145.75 carats of 7 tumble emeralds, along with pearls, buff-top emeralds and round brilliant-cut and pave-set diamonds. It took 900 hours for Bulgari’s workshop to adapt each element to the irregular shape of the emeralds. It is part of a suite that includes earrings and a bracelet.

“I really enjoyed creating this collection because Barocko is perfectly imperfect, beautifully vibrant in colour, with an edge of rock and roll,” says Silvestri. “The idea to do a Baroque theme came to us about two or three years ago. Baroque is in our veins. It’s in our DNA.”

Bulgari Rocking Tanzanite Necklace with diamonds and Akoya South Sea Cultured Pearls

Bulgari Rocking Tanzanite Necklace with diamonds and Akoya South Sea Cultured Pearls Antonio Barrella

The ornate, antique design of the Baroque era seems like a far cry from rock n’ roll, but pieces like this Rocking Tanzanite necklace demonstrates how the house was able to blend the two together for a modern take on the 17th-century style. Onyx and diamonds decorate the chain, while the Akoya South Sea cultured pearls are tipped with white gold studs. Crowning the piece is a knock-your-socks-off 48.77-carat cushion tanzanite.

Chanel

Chanel Tweed Graphique High-Jewelry

Chanel Tweed Graphique High-Jewelry Courtesy of Chanel

Chanel also incorporated onyx into its high-jewellery by weaving it in with diamonds in a nod to its perennial inspiration, tweed. The result was an eye-popping graphic collection that proved the house codes translate as seamlessly into Place Vendôme gems as they do on the runway. Each piece is set in white gold, diamonds and onyx. The largest diamond comes on the ring in 6.07 carats. The set also comes with a pair of matching earrings.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels Emerald and Diamond Necklace

Van Cleef & Arpels Emerald and Diamond Necklace Bertrand Moulin

Not be outdone, Van Cleef & Arpels presented two extraordinary emerald necklaces fit for a queen. The first, the Merveille d’Emeraudes comes with five pear-shaped Colombian emeralds totalling 70.40 carats hanging from a white gold and diamond setting featuring one pear-shaped DFL type 2A diamond (5.81 carats), two pear-shaped DIF type 2A diamonds (7.18 carats) that opulently hang down the back of the neck.

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Earrings

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Earrings Bertrand Moulin

The emerald pendants detach and can be added to the earrings to replace the diamond drops in case you want the gems dripping from your ears and your neck.

 

Van Cleef & Arpels Emerald and Diamond Necklace

Van Cleef & Arpels Emerald and Diamond Necklace Belonging to Princess Faiza of Egypt Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels

It takes its cues from a necklace that once belonged to Princess Faiza (pictured above). It was acquired in 1947, almost two decades after its creation in 1929, by the Egyptian court’s representative in France for the princess.

 

Van Cleef & Arpels Ruby and Diamond Bracelet

Van Cleef & Arpels Ruby and Diamond Bracelet Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels

Silver screen royalty inspired the new Rubis en Scène bracelet, modelled after a ruby Van Cleef & Arpels version that once belonged to Marlene Dietrich. She was regularly photographed wearing it during her lifetime and it also made an appearance on her wrist in Alfred Hitchcock’s 1950 film Stage Fright. The Jarretière cuff was the only piece of jewellery the actress didn’t sell off to pay her bills before her death in 1992. It was sold later that year at Sotheby’s for $990,000 and remains in a private collection.

But for anyone looking to get their hands on the next best thing, the new creation will be as good as it gets until the Jarretière’s owner decides to sell. It comes with 72 Burmese rubies totalling 84.74 carats and is set in white gold with round, square-shaped and baguette-cut diamonds for a 21st-century femme fatale.

Dior

Dior Diamond, Sapphire, Garnet and Cultured Pearl Ring

Dior Diamond, Sapphire, Garnet and Cultured Pearl Ring Courtesy of Dior

In fashion, it’s pervasive to see low-brow references inspiring high-brow design at astronomical price points, but in high-jewellery, it’s as rare as the jewels themselves. This season, Victoire de Castellane took an ’80s DIY trend and elevated it to create the kind of jewellery you almost never see in the streets. Tie die was the inspiration behind the explosive twists of colour at Dior. The new spin on coloured gemstones and pearls demonstrate why Castellane has been Dior’s rock star since she took on the role as creative director of its fine jewellery division over two decades ago.

Case in point: A pair of asymmetrical yellow gold earrings piled with diamonds, blue and Paraiba-type tourmalines, tsavorite and spessartite garnets, emeralds and pink, blue and yellow sapphires come topped off with an opposing pale pink and sea-green cultured pearls with large tourmalines offering juxtaposition just beneath.

Dior Diamond, Sapphire, Garnet, Ruby and Tourmaline Earrings

Dior Diamond, Sapphire, Garnet, Ruby and Tourmaline Earrings Courtesy of Dior

The strongest pieces played to this composition like two rings that also play off their big centrepiece stones. A sea-green pearl appears to nestle into the side of a large sapphire flanked by diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and garnets, while another ring that curves around the finger without completing the circle, is crowned with an orange pearl on the bottom left and a pink pearl on its top right.

Dior Diamond, Sapphire, Garnet, Emerald and Cultured Pearl Ring

Dior Diamond, Sapphire, Garnet, Emerald and Cultured Pearl Ring Courtesy of Dior

It might be based on arty ’80s fad that’s seeing a renaissance, but these pearls look as though they are resting in a mosaic gem-studded representation of the sea’s natural technicolour flora and fauna.

Messika

Messika Diamond Equalizer Collar Necklace

Messika Diamond Equalizer Collar Necklace Courtesy of Messika

Diamonds are a specialty of Valerie Messika’s family business and oh boy, did she deliver. This collar necklace’s centrepiece is a 17-carat pear-shaped diamond. It appears to float in between crisscrossed lines of baguette and round diamonds meant to capture the up and down musical vibrations of equalisers which oscillate on monitors in recording studios.

 

Messika Diamond Equalizer Earrings

Messika Diamond Equaliser Earrings Courtesy of Messika

Keeping tempo with the necklace, a set of earrings in mismatched sizing feature a zigzag of diamonds, which also take their cues from music, in the pattern of a swinging metronome. A pair diamond of 4 carats quivers at the tip of the XL earring, while a 1.50 carat dangles from the shorter version. Literally, music to the ears.

Harry Winston

Harry Winston Wreath Necklace in amethyst, sapphires, peridot, euberlite, aquamarine, tsavorite and diamonds

Harry Winston Wreath Necklace and ring in Amethyst, Sapphires, Peridot, Rubellite, Aquamarine, Tsavorite and Diamonds Courtesy of Harry Winston

Harry Winston kept its designs classic but offered a burst of colour in a necklace outfitted with a bouquet of amethysts, sapphires, peridots, rubellite, aquamarines, tsavorites and diamonds, weighing in for a total of 152.40 carats. The wreath of gems also comes with matching earrings in the same configuration of gems, excluding tsavorites, at 7.31 carats. Both pieces are set in 18-carat yellow gold and platinum.

Harry Winston Cluster Wreath Diamond Necklace

Harry Winston Cluster Wreath Diamond Necklace Courtesy of Harry Winston

But staying true to its history of creating major diamond showstoppers, a platinum necklace set with 260 diamonds at 92.41 carats took the cake as the premiere heirloom piece.

Harry Winston Cluster Emerald Earrings and Rings

Harry Winston Cluster Emerald Earrings and Rings Courtesy of Harry Winston

For those that can’t get enough of the emeralds in this year’s high-jewellery spread, the house offered a few richly hued Cluster creations. The ring, which will likely be the most coveted of the three, is a 4.63-carat solitaire set in yellow gold and platinum and surrounded by 10 diamonds weighing 2.80 carats. But why just have one when you can have a set? A pair of triangular earrings with two emeralds at 2.55 carats will appeal to those looking for just a touch more flair in design, but for those set on weight, the 5.01 carats on a pair of studs with wings of pear-shaped diamonds for a crown are a must.

Chopard

Chopard emerald, sapphire and tsavorite Ginkgo Earrings

Chopard Ginkgo earrings in emerald, sapphire and tsavorite Courtesy of Chopard

Major statement earrings were the stars of Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection, and while they’ll see few opportunities this year to show off on any carpet other than inside a home, they serve up plenty of inspiration for future affairs. Large showpiece earrings, like these pair of Gingko tree stunners dripping with 33.3 carats of pear-shaped emeralds, 16.5 carats of brilliant-cut yellow sapphires and 14.9 carats of tsavorites, can be excruciating to wear if a jeweller has not taken great care to consider the weight on the ear, but Chopard’s come set in ultra-lightweight titanium to ease the heft of its gems. The emeralds are held in place with ethical 18-carat rose gold.
An even lighter pair of titanium-set Pansy earrings show off nature’s paintbrush in ombre shades of purple via 30.8-carats of sapphires and 6.3 carats of amethysts with 14.8 carats of yellow sapphires shading its petals. At the centre of each flower are 8.3 carats of yellow-brown diamonds, while tsavorites sit like dew drops on the petals.
Chopard Pansy earrings in sapphires, garnets, yellow brown diamonds, amethysts and tasvorites

Chopard Pansy earrings in sapphires, garnets, yellow-brown diamonds, amethysts and tsavorites Courtesy of Chopard

And for those that prefer old Hollywood style, these diamond earrings that hold a 10.03-carat rose-cut pear-shaped diamond and an 8.02-carat rose-cut pear-shaped diamond at their centre should capture the spotlight. Each giant pear-shaped rock is surrounded in 5 carats of smaller pear-shaped diamonds and .78 carats on minute round diamonds and set in 18-carat white Fairmined certified ethical gold.

Chopard 10.03-carat pear-shaped diamond earrings

Chopard 10.03-carat pear-shaped diamond earrings

Pomellato

Pomellato Gourmette Assoluta Rose Gold and Brown Diamond Necklace

Pomellato Gourmette Assoluta Rose Gold and Brown Diamond Necklace Courtesy of Pomellato

While it might seem unusual for Pomellato to come out with its first high-jewelry collection in the midst of a global pandemic, it delivered pieces that felt the most relatable in today’s current environment. Nearly every piece would look as good with a white button-down and jeans as it would with an evening gown, should we ever see the gala circuit remerge one day. One of the most versatile highlights included a pavé-diamond version of its classic chain necklace decked with 3,000 cognac-coloured gems set in pink gold.

Pomellato Iconica Choker in Rose Gold and Diamonds

Pomellato Iconica Choker in Rose Gold and Diamonds Courtesy of Pomellato

Another was a thin pavé-diamond choker necklace backed by rose gold that is only visible on the interior that took 226 hours to create. While there is certainly nothing simple about a neck full of 1,706 diamonds, Pomellato’s design felt both modern and tastefully subdued. “La Gioia di Pomellato truly expresses who we are—our deepest identity—and Pomellato is not an elitist jeweller,” said Sabina Belli, Pomellato CEO, in a press statement. For high-jewellery clients looking for something on the more subtle side, the Italian house has certainly filled a new niche in the market.

 

 

 

Pomellato Nudo Necklace in Topaz, Peirdo, Rhodelite, Amethyst, Garnet and Diamond

Pomellato Nudo Necklace in Topaz, Peridot, Rhodolite, Amethyst, Garnet and Diamond Courtesy of Pomellato

But the Milanese Maison didn’t forgo its signature use of semi-precious coloured stones. This Nudo necklace combines nearly the entire rainbow with a myriad of blue topaz, sea green peridot, raspberry tourmaline, lemon quartz, orange garnet, purple amethyst and pink rhodolite. Each strand of stones hangs from gold chains suspended from diamond-encrusted circles. Even in an explosion of hues, Pomellato managed to create high-jewellery that felt thoroughly primed for 2020.

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How Off-the-Rack Suits Got Sophisticated Enough to Win Over Bespoke Guys

Ready-to-wear tailoring has never been better, and it offers even the most particular dressers a fast, easy platform for experimenting with their look.

By Aleks Cvetkovic 18/02/2025

The world moves fast—and for once, tailoring is moving a little bit faster.

Guys around the globe are rediscovering their love of suits, but many have determined that they can’t stomach the monthslong wait for bespoke. The good news? Ready-to-wear tailoring has never been better.

That’s in part because bespoke makers are beefing up their off-the-rack offerings. Anderson & Sheppard’s shop-in-store at N.Y.C.’s Bergdorf Goodman—the first outpost beyond its London flagship— opened in December with, among other things, a sharp wool-and-cashmere jacket in a delightful shade of teal. Huntsman’s recent fall-winter collection, billed as its most comprehensive assortment yet, offered everything from tuxedos to shooting breeches. Even Leonard Logsdail, Hollywood’s highly esteemed bespoke purveyor, is experimenting with hem-and-go models.

But non-custom tailors are upping the ante, too. Some of the best ready-to-wear suits on the market come from such brands, whose wholly distinctive points of view provide a welcome departure from the rigidity of many bespoke tailors’ house styles. The preponderance and diversity of such high-quality, easy-to-access threads has recast off-the-rack suits as the ultimate way to experiment with your look, not just a way for some to get dressed on the cheap. What’s more, it reflects the new reality that even people who suit up regularly might want to show up looking different on Thursday night than they did on Tuesday morning.

“Life nowadays is much more fluid,” says Chris Modoo, a London-based stylist who once worked as a tailor on Savile Row. “Things happen, invitations appear. You might get an invite for a black-tie party in the South of France for next Saturday.” Ready-to-wear is the obvious solution when you’re in a last-minute menswear quandary, but “it also means you can try new things.”

One maker worth a test-drive is Husbands Paris, founded by Nicolas Gabard, who sees his role as an “archivist of the past.” His look, inspired by stylish men such as Yves Saint Laurent, David Hemmings, and Gary Cooper, is unabashedly striking—think long, fully canvased jackets, broad lapels, structured shoulders, and wide-leg, high-waisted trousers. These wares are made in small workshops in Italy and Portugal, where craftspeople infuse them with high-end details such as hand-sewn buttonholes and silk bar tacks, a form of stitching that reinforces seams and pockets.

Thom Sweeney L.A. store Brett Wood

They’re the kind of touches any menswear enthusiast can appreciate—even if they’re the trees to Gabard’s style forest. Clothes like this are designed as a form of wearable self-assurance, enhancing what Gabard calls a “classically masculine” silhouette: broad shoulders, slim waist, narrow hips.

“Of course, tailoring has to fit well, but it also has to bring something else,” he says. “More and more [Husbands] customers want to be confident, powerful, and sexy in their outfit.”

When you want to look more suave than soigné, turn to the indie Milanese brand Massimo Alba, which is known for its chic casualwear but made its name with easygoing tailoring. “A great suit is not just about the way it fits but about the way it makes you feel,” says the eponymous label’s founder of his relaxed approach. “For me, the essence lies in balance, between structure and softness, elegance and ease. In my opinion, a suit should adapt to the wearer, not the other way around.”

Alba’s creations are cut from plush materials such as corduroy and flannel, featuring natural shoulders and only the lightest of canvasing in the chest, which results in a less-formal look. Which is not to say they aren’t workhorses: Daniel Craig wore one of Alba’s Sloop suits to dodge bullets in 2021’s James Bond film No Time to Die. “I always focus on fabrics that move with the body, details that whisper rather than shout, and cuts that allow for freedom,” Alba adds.

And freedom is precisely what this newfound inventory of great ready-to-wear tailoring provides. Modoo advises some clients to look to bespoke tailors for investment-level garments, such as morning suits, tuxedos, or the dark, serious stuff you might need for a funeral or odd courtroom appearance. “You know you’re going to wear these for 10 or 15 years,” he says. Let the new class of distinctive ready-to-wear step in when you want to try something that just wouldn’t make sense as a bespoke order. “Your pink-velvet blazer for the Christmas party? How well does that need to fit?”

London bespoke tailor Caroline Andrew is one of many who admits ready-to-wear has its place. Courtesy of Caroline Andrew

Fortunately, with so many options available, the fit is easier to dial in. You can expect most high-end operations to make a long list of changes, from ensuring that the seat of the trousers drapes appropriately to cutting working buttonholes on the jacket. For a peerless experience, you can always reach for garments from one of the many talented bespoke tailors offering ready-to-wear. At Thom Sweeney, such clothes are “all influenced by our bespoke cut,” says Thom Whiddett, who cofounded the brand with Luke Sweeney in 2007. “You try on [our ready-to-wear] jacket, and you immediately get a sense of the proportions and shapes that we put into a bespoke garment.”

That alluring sense of near-instant gratification is the point. For some, nothing will ever replace the distinguished feeling of slipping into a bench-made suit—and plenty are willing to wait for it.

“You have to mentally buy into the process and enjoy it,” says Caroline Andrew, a London bespoke specialist. “The journey is just as important as the finished product.” But ready-to-wear sets the time-strapped tailoring enthusiast down a different path: discovering new facets of your personal style at a record pace.

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Tom Brady Wears a Jacob & Co. Watch Decked in Yellow Sapphires to the Super Bowl

The $740,000 Caviar Tourbillon was an opulent choice for the former NFL star.

By 17/02/2025

Tom Brady was on the field tonight at the 59th annual Super Bowl game, and while the retired NFL hero—a seven-time Super Bowl winner (the most of any footballer in history)—wasn’t playing, he came dressed to impress with a $116,400 Jacob & Co. watch on his wrist.

Brady, who is a notable watch collector, recently sold off several of his timepieces at a Sotheby’s auction called “The GOAT Collection: Watches and Treasures from Tom Brady” this past December. Those timepieces ran the gamut from a Rolex Daytona Ref. 6241 to a unique Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with his name spelled out in diamonds across the salmon-colored tapisserie dial. His Rolex Daytona sold for over $1.5 million, and, in total, his auction raked in around $7 million. So, he’s well-equipped for a new watch purchase.

Whether or not he owns the six-figure sapphire stunner or it was a paid spot, the watch certainly stood out against his conservative but immaculately fit gray suit. “Tom Brady is the epitome of excellence, both on and off the field,” said Benjamin Arabov, CEO of Jacob & Co, in a press release sent out by the company shortly after Brady’s appearance. “We’re thrilled to see him wearing two of our most prestigious timepieces on the biggest stage in sports. The Billionaire Mini Ashoka and Caviar Tourbillon embody the precision, luxury, and innovation that define Jacob & Co. We’re honored to have him represent the artistry and craftsmanship behind every piece we create.”

Like much of Brady’s wrist candy, his 44 by 15.8 mm Caviar Tourbillon is not easy to come by. It is limited to just 18 pieces. It features hours, minutes, and a one-minute flying tourbillon in the JCAA43 movement with 216 components and 72 hours of power reserve. The movement itself is set with 338 brilliant-cut diamonds, while a total of 337 yellow sapphires adorn the case and dial. The clasp is decorated with another 18 baguette-cut yellow sapphires, and the crown comes with 14 baguette-cut yellow sapphires and one rose-cut yellow sapphire. As far as gem setting goes, this is one extraordinary piece, but it certainly seemed like a surprising choice for Brady, who was otherwise dressed like he just stepped out of a boardroom or a Ralph Lauren catalog.

Benjamin Arabov, son of Jacob & Co. founder Jacob Arabov, is now the CEO of the company. The 32-year-old recently took to Instagram to post that he was looking for a rebranding agency with experience in visual identity and packaging. As far as marketing goes, however, with Tom Brady, he’s golden.

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This Vintage Rolex Day-Date Has an Ultra-Rare and Coveted ‘Bark’ Design

The ultra-cool piece from Wind Vintage also comes in pristine condition with a desirable patina.

By Paige Reddinger 17/02/2025

Over the last four years there has been a resurgence in interest for 18-karat yellow gold watches. Much of that is due to fatigue over the long-running craze for steel tool watches, but it is also in part due to the rising value of gold (which shows no sign of slowing), rendering these once undesirable pieces increasingly worth collecting. Add to that the fact that, in some niche and stylish circles, unusual bracelet treatments, gem-setting, and interesting dials are becoming increasingly appealing and you have a new wave of watch collecting emerging. Steel sports watches are still the bread and butter for most dealers, but as pockets of interest in more unusual timekeepers, often from younger and fashion-forward collectors, continue to rise we’re seeing some really fun pieces pop up on the market. Case in point: This 1980s Rolex Day-Date in 18-karat yellow gold with a sapphire and diamond dial from Wind Vintage currently available exclusively on The Vault.

It wasn’t that long ago that dealers had a hard time unloading an all-gold gem-set piece. Eric Wind, the notable dealer and founder of Wind Vintage, says five years ago he would have sold this piece for around $23,000 to $28,000. The asking price today? $45,000. “It is very rare,” he tells Robb Report. “I think that was all clearly hand-done. Funnily enough, bark watches were not very desirable in the past. You know, even five to 10 years ago, they were very, very hard to sell. But, over the last three to five years, there’s been such an emergence and interest in jewellery and watches and work like that engraving and other kind of artistic forms that the watches took.” The style of engraving he is referring to on this watch can be seen on the bezel and middle links of the bracelet that is referred to as “bark” for its rough tree-like appearance.

“Bark” engraving on the bezel and bracelet of the Wind Vintage 1980s Rolex Day-Date
Courtesy of Wind Vintage

And while the bracelet is certainly a notable feature that will stand out in a sea of Submariners and Daytonas, the dial is also worth bragging about. Its diamond minutes track and sapphire hour markers are executed in what is known as a “string dial” because it looks like a string of pearls. “They’ve become very popular,” says Wind. “They were very expensive back in the 80s, just because of the cost of the stones, and there are just not many that exist on the planet.” Likewise, Wind says the canary yellow matte dial is not something he comes across often, having only seen a couple of others.

An up-close look at the patina and “bark” engraving on this 1980s Day-Date from Wind Vintage.
Courtesy of Wind Vintage

Part of what makes this watch so hard to find on the market is that pieces like this often didn’t survive past their ’80s heyday. “A lot of times these watches were so undesirable that dealers would replace the bezel inserts and put on fluted inserts, or smooth bezels or fluted bezels and melt down the bracelets or polish the center link so they looked like a standard Day-Date. Those dealers should have learned that what goes around, always comes around. Now with these interesting Rolex watches on the rise, they’ll become even harder to find.

A Wind Vintage 1980s Day-Date with “bark” engraving and a gem-set “string dial”
Courtesy of Wind Vintage

If you’re interested in the piece and want to speak to Wind about it IRL, he will be at Robb Report’s House of Robb event in San Francsico today during the NBA All-Star weekend.

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Soccer Star Kylian Mbappé Is Now an Investor in Watch Marketplace Wristcheck

Just like Jay-Z.
Published on February 7, 2025

By Abby Montanez 11/02/2025

Kylian Mbappé just went from brand ambassador to investor.

The celebrated French footballer, who currently plays for Real Madrid, has taken a stake in luxury watch trading platform Wristcheck, Hypebeast reported lat week.

Off the filed, the 26-year-old soccer star is a known timepiece collector and has served as an ambassador for Swiss marque Hublot since 2018. With this new partnership, the forward joins a growing group of influential backers, including Jay-Z. The rapper and business mogul took an equity stake in the Hong Kong-based company last summer as part of a recent funding round of $7.9 million.

“I’m thrilled to join Wristcheck as an investor through Coalition Capital,” Mbappé said in a press statement. “As a Hublot ambassador and someone passionate about watches and innovation, I see Wristcheck as a platform that truly understands the next generation of collectors. They’re reshaping the watch industry with a forward-thinking approach that blends technology, transparency, and creativity.” Mbappé did not immediately respond to Robb Report‘s request for comment on his new business endeavor.

Kylian Mbappé is an investor in online watch shop Wristcheck.
Tnani Badreddine/DeFodi Images via Getty Images

Launched in 2020 by renowned horophile and Instagram personality Austen Chu, Wristcheck offers a platform for collectors to buy and sell pre-owned watches that have been authenticated by Swiss-trained watchmakers. Since it was founded, the company has raised more than $21.6 million in funding from investors including the Alibaba Entrepreneurs Fund, Gobi Partners GBA, and K3 Ventures.

Mbappé, meanwhile, has achieved remarkable success in his soccer career. He won the 2018 FIFA World Cup with France, becoming the youngest player to score in a final since Pelé. At PSG, he has secured multiple Ligue 1 titles and domestic cups. Individually, Mbappé has earned the Ligue 1 Player of the Year award and regularly features in top European scoring charts. And in 2020, he was ranked the world’s highest-paid player, surpassing rivals Cristiano Ronaldo and Lionel Messi.

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Sotheby’s Will Put on the Largest Auction of Breguet Watches in Decades This Fall

To celebrate the revered watchmaking house’s 250th anniversary, the sale includes rare collectibles belonging to living Breguet family members.

By Paige Reddinger 11/02/2025

Interest in Breguet has experienced a quiet resurgence among savvy collectors who appreciate the brand’s deep-rooted watchmaking heritage. This growing enthusiasm will soon take center stage with an upcoming auction that shines a significant spotlight on the storied Maison.

Founded in Paris 250 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet was one of the most influential watchmakers in history, best known for inventing the tourbillon and the automatic winding system—along with many other groundbreaking innovations. His legacy continues to inspire modern masters such as F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour. You can see Breguet’s influence pointedly in pieces like F.P. Journe’s famous Chronomètre à Résonance timepiece, voted one of Robb Report‘s 50 Greatest Watches of All Time.

Now, Sotheby’s has announced “the largest sale of Breguet timepieces in three decades.” Though the auction won’t take place until November, the auction house is already working to build anticipation. In the meantime, it might be wise to brush up on the most coveted Breguet references.

Breguet 1827 Perpétuelle à Tact watch made for King George IV Breguet

What may pique collectors’ interest is the sale is being curated in conjunction with Breguet and Emmanuel Breguet, the vice president and head of patrimony, who happens to be a descendant of the original Monsieur Breguet. So far, the only timekeeper publicly associated (at least visually) with the auction is the 1827 Perpétuelle à Tact watch made for King George IV. Still, it hints at the historic level of pocket watches, wristwatches, and clocks that will be on offer. Abraham-Louis Breguet was a frequent supplier of high-end and state-of-the-art timepieces for royalty, including Marie Antoinette, Napoleon Bonaparte, and King George III.

Other highlights include an open-faced montre à tact (a watch that replicates the internal hour hand on the cover of the pocket watch via an arrow so that time could be read via touch) with a calendar and moonphase indications that was the inspiration for the Ref. 3330. A pendulette with alarm, perpetual calendar and repeater, and a two-color gold open-faced tourbillon watch is said to be a part of the sale, although no images were provided as of press time. More info on what will be in the sale will come this spring.

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