Ten Style Tips From Pedro Mendes

The man who literally wrote the book on what belongs in your closet.

By Eric Twardzik 26/03/2021

Call him the Michael Pollan of menswear. Just as Pollan asked eaters to more thoughtfully investigate the origins of their food and its effect on the environment, Canadian author and journalist Pedro Mendes is asking us to do the same with our clothing in his new book Ten Garments Every Man Should Own, due out on March 30th and available for pre-order now.

Mendes, who’s written about menswear for numerous publications as well as his website The Hogtown Rake and produced the podcast Unbuttoned: G. Bruce Boyer’s Life In Clothes, believes such an attitude is long overdue.

“People are asking these questions: Where is something made, who made it, what’s it made out of?” he says. “That’s been going on with food for a couple of decades, and has led to more transparency in the food industry, people being more mindful about what they’re buying, and a return to cooking and thinking about whole foods. I realize this is desperately missing in the world of clothes.”

However, Mendes isn’t calling for a revolution. Instead, he’s asking us to look back at the classic male wardrobe and consider how we can curb our appetites for overconsumption by investing in quality items that won’t fall victim to the vagaries of fashion but will last for many years with proper care. Through that lens, Mendes re-examines big-ticket items like overcoats and two-piece suits as well as smaller—but no less considered—purchases such as socks and gloves (hint: always look for a glovemaker that sells by the half-size, if not quarter).

The cover of "Ten Garments Every Man Should Own"

“Ten Garments Every Man Should Own” (US$21.99) is out on March 30, 2021. Amazon

Mendes is less interested in prescribing how garments should be worn as he is helping the reader to discover quality in the first place and ensure that they won’t tire of their purchase after a season or two. Just as important to this sustainable ethos is proper wardrobe maintenance; fittingly, the book ends with an entire chapter dedicated to the subject.

After a global pandemic that’s forced many of us to re-examine our buying habits and relationship to the things we own, Mendes’s book feels uniquely timed to the moment, even though it was written before COVID-19.

“Because of the pandemic, I think a lot more people are asking themselves those questions about the clothing and fashion industry,” Mendes says. “It feels like this is potentially the antidote to all that stuff, maybe at the right time.”

In that spirit, we’ve asked Mendes to share 10 of his recommendations for building and enjoying a more thoughtful wardrobe below.

Detail of a raglan sleeve.

Firdaus Ahmed

Always Assess Quality

“When I look at a garment, I’m looking at what material was used, the design and the labour that went into it. And typically, cutting back on one of those three is how you cut costs.”

Practice One In, One Out

“This means that once your wardrobe has reached a certain point and you have the basics that you need, nothing else gets added unless something else goes. And for me that’s also an opportunity to think: ‘Do I really need and use the things that I have, so that I actually need to replace them?’ Because if not, then I don’t.”

Don’t Put Blind Faith in Brands

“I don’t mention any brands in the book, because I don’t feel that there is a guarantee that a specific brand will always deliver the best quality. There are certainly brands that I go to and that I like right now, but to put that into print for the next 10 or 20 years? I don’t necessarily feel comfortable doing that, especially because the point is for you to learn to identify quality by yourself. Our society is way too focused on brands.”

A cable-knit sweater.

Firdaus Ahmed

Hats Should Be Worn for Function, Not Fashion

“If you look at a photo from the 1940s, the reason all those men are wearing hats is that other men are wearing hats. Primarily, it’s an issue of conformity. But the issue that I make is that they’re extremely functional, both in terms of a style element that finishes off an outfit but also a practical element in terms of keeping yourself dry and keeping the sun off of you.”

Don’t Subscribe to a Limited View of Masculinity

“I think the concern that a lot of men in North America have with clothes is they don’t want to look like they care about it too much, and that’s what needs to shift. That it is somehow not masculine to care about these things. It’s OK to care about watches, it’s OK to care about cars but not clothing. I think there’s a deep-seated misogyny and homophobia that’s built into that, but also a very limited concept of what masculinity is and what masculinity can be.”

Leather gloves

Firdaus Ahmed

Your Grandpa Was Right About Trouser Rise

“Previous generations understood that if you have a higher waist on a trouser, it will give you a smoother line. It elongates your legs and it’s fundamentally more comfortable for your waist and abdomen than a low rise trouser that’s really cinched-in, especially as we get older and our bodies change.”

Custom Is About Fit, Not Flair

“I’ve learned to be moderate with my choices. The first and only pair of custom shoes that I had, I went bold because it was custom, without understanding that custom fundamentally allows for a better fit. That’s what’s really going on.”

Don’t Write Off the Necktie

“I don’t mind if men stop wearing ugly ties. I don’t mind at all. And most men who wear ties— we’re talking politicians and sports broadcasters—are wearing ugly ties with ugly knots, and that’s fine for those to go away. But the concept of the tie, which is a colourful piece of silk tied around the neck, that’s an opportunity for masculine expression that doesn’t really exist any other way. That’s why I’d rather not see it go.”

Shoe trees

Firdaus Ahmed

Discover the Joy of Seasonal Storage

“The process of putting your clothes away and bringing them back out again re-introduces you to your own wardrobe. It’s two weekends a year, if that. You take everything out, have a good look at them, give them a good cleaning, see if anything needs to be fixed or replaced, then you put them away safely and properly. When they come back out again, I still have the feeling of ‘Oh yeah, I forgot I had that.’ Because when you have those things on the shelf all year long, they just become background noise. But when you don’t see them at all and you bring them out, it’s like the dopamine rush of buying new things.”

Maintenance Is Mindfulness

“Building and then caring for the wardrobe is another opportunity for mindfulness in your life. None of it is a chore for me, whether it’s ironing or hand-washing sweaters. The process of working on your clothes puts you in the moment, but also connects yourself to the clothes in a different way than if you just throw them in a machine or take them down to someone else.”

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Painted Black

Dion Lee is teaming up with Cho Cho San for an Australian Fashion Week event.

By Horacio Silva 10/05/2024

The more things change, the more things stay the same. Nowhere more than in the fashion world. Despite the vagaries of taste, black remains the go-to colour of choice. Fitting, then, that for next week’s Australian Fashion Week, the perennially black-clad media darling Dion Lee has partnered with Pott’s Point Izakaya joint Cho Cho San on a black-themed late-night ramen bar.

Lee, based in New York and not showing in Sydney next week, has worked with the restaurant to create a menu inspired by his inky, haute-industrial aesthetic and favourite flavours.

As part of the signature offering ($50pp) guests are offered “Dion’s Martini” on arrival (his take on the classic vodka drink spiked with a black olive, natch), a Tokyo-style shoyu ramen with shitake mushrooms, smoked daikon and crunchy tempura shiso leaf, and a winning black sesame and cocoa soft-serve ice-cream replete with black cone. (Trust us, it tastes infinitely better than it sounds.)

Lee rarely strays outside his fashion lane, but a little blackbirdie tells us to expect an announcement soon about a major new collaboration. Let’s hope it involves black ice cream.

Cho Cho San x Dion Lee: Late Night Ramen Bar

Available from May 13-16, 5pm to late.

Signature set: $50pp includes Dion’s Martini, Tokyo Shoyu Ramen and Black Sesame Soft Serve.

To book click here

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A New Chapter for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘Reverso Stories’

A special Reverso exhibit arrives in Sydney this week.

By Josh Bozin 08/05/2024

Few watch enthusiasts would be unfamiliar with Jaeger-LeCoultre and its enduring Reverso collection. Since 1931, the Reverso has been celebrated as one of the great dress watches of the 20th century.

In recent years, the watch has gone from strength to strength—in 2023 alone, we received the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph, the impressive Duoface Tourbillon, and the slimmer Reverso Tribute Small Seconds—capturing the imagination of casual observers, collectors, and those looking to scale the horological ladder.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

It is also part of the cultural conversation thanks to exceptional branding experiences, such as ‘Reverso Stories’, a travelling experiential trunk show. Jaeger-LeCoultre is again summoning its movable experience to Australia, this time in the heart of Sydney’s CBD. For a limited time, eager fans can glimpse the Reverso collection up close via a multi-sensory exhibition tracing the history of this remarkable timepiece.

Presented in four chapters ( Icon, Style and design, Innovation, and Craftsmanship), the Reverso story will be told through the lens of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expert watchmakers, who combine nine decades of craftsmanship, inventiveness, and design into one interactive experience.

As a bonus, guests will be privy to a large-scale art installation by Korean artist Yiyun Kang—commissioned by the Maison under its ‘Made of Makers’ programme—and the launch of three exceptional new Reverso timepieces, yet to be revealed. These watches will showcase skills such as enamelling, gold-leaf paillonage, and gem-setting, mastered by the manufacturer’s in-house Métiers Rares (Rare Handcrafts) atelier.

Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Completing the immersion into the spirit of Art Deco, guests will be able to enjoy a complementary refreshment post-experience at the pop-up Jaeger-LeCoultre 1931 Café.

‘Reverso Stories’ will be held in Sydney’s Martin Place from 10–19 May 2024. It will be open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. (and 5 p.m. on Sundays) and free to the public. Visitors are welcome to book online here or register upon arrival.

For more information, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 

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Watch of the Week: TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith

The legendary sports watch returns, but with an unexpected twist.

By Josh Bozin 02/05/2024

Over the last few years, watch pundits have predicted the return of the eccentric TAG Heuer Formula 1, in some shape or form. It was all but confirmed when TAG Heuer’s heritage director, Nicholas Biebuyck, teased a slew of vintage models on his Instagram account in the aftermath of last year’s Watches & Wonders 2023 in Geneva. And when speaking with Frédéric Arnault at last year’s trade fair, the former CEO asked me directly if the brand were to relaunch its legacy Formula 1 collection, loved by collectors globally, how should they go about it?

My answer to the baited entreaty definitely didn’t mention a collaboration with Ronnie Fieg of Kith, one of the world’s biggest streetwear fashion labels. Still, here we are: the TAG Heuer Formula 1 is officially back and as colourful as ever.

As the watch industry enters its hype era—in recent years, we’ve seen MoonSwatches, Scuba Fifty Fathoms, and John Mayer G-Shocks—the new Formula 1 x Kith collaboration might be the coolest yet. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Here’s the lowdown: overnight, TAG Heuer, together with Kith, took to socials to unveil a special, limited-edition collection of Formula 1 timepieces, inspired by the original collection from the 1980s. There are 10 new watches, all limited, with some designed on a stainless steel bracelet and some on an upgraded rubber strap; both options nod to the originals.

Seven are exclusive to Kith and its global stores (New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Hawaii, Tokyo, Toronto, and Paris, to be specific), and are made in an abundance of colours. Two are exclusive to TAG Heuer; and one is “shared” between TAG Heuer and Kith—this is a highlight of the collection, in our opinion. A faithful play on the original composite quartz watch from 1986, this model, limited to just 1,350 pieces globally, features the classic black bezel with red accents, a stainless steel bracelet, and that creamy eggshell dial, in all of its vintage-inspired glory. There’s no doubt that this particular model will present as pure nostalgia for those old enough to remember when the original TAG Heuer Formula 1 made its debut. 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

Of course, throughout the collection, Fieg’s design cues are punctuated: the “TAG” is replaced with “Kith,” forming a contentious new brand name for this specific release, as well as Kith’s slogan, “Just Us.”

Collectors and purists alike will appreciate the dedication to the original Formula 1 collection: features like the 35mm Arnite cases—sourced from the original 80s-era supplier—the form hour hand, a triangle with a dot inside at 12 o’clock, indices that alternate every quarter between shields and dots, and a contrasting minuterie, are all welcomed design specs that make this collaboration so great. 

Every TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith timepiece will be presented in an eye-catching box that complements the fun and colour theme of Formula 1 but drives home the premium status of this collaboration. On that note, at $2,200 a piece, this isn’t exactly an approachable quartz watch but reflects the exclusive nature of Fieg’s Kith brand and the pieces he designs (largely limited-edition). 

TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer

So, what do we think? It’s important not to understate the significance of the arrival of the TAG Heuer Formula 1 in 1986, in what would prove integral in setting up the brand for success throughout the 90’s—it was the very first watch collection to have “TAG Heuer” branding, after all—but also in helping to establish a new generation of watch consumer. Like Fieg, many millennial enthusiasts will recall their sentimental ties with the Formula 1, often their first timepiece in their horological journey.  

This is as faithful of a reissue as we’ll get from TAG Heuer right now, and budding watch fans should be pleased with the result. To TAG Heuer’s credit, a great deal of research has gone into perfecting and replicating this iconic collection’s proportions, materials, and aesthetic for the modern-day consumer. Sure, it would have been nice to see a full lume dial, a distinguishing feature on some of the original pieces—why this wasn’t done is lost on me—and perhaps a more approachable price point, but there’s no doubt these will become an instant hit in the days to come. 

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith collection will be available on Friday, May 3rd, exclusively in-store at select TAG Heuer and Kith locations in Miami, and available starting Monday, May 6th, at select TAG Heuer boutiques, all Kith shops, and online at Kith.com. To see the full collection, visit tagheuer.com

 

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8 Fascinating Facts You Didn’t Know About Aston Martin

The British sports car company is most famous as the vehicle of choice for James Bond, but Aston Martin has an interesting history beyond 007.

By Bob Sorokanich 01/05/2024

Aston Martin will forever be associated with James Bond, ever since everyone’s favourite spy took delivery of his signature silver DB5 in the 1964 film Goldfinger. But there’s a lot more to the history of this famed British sports car brand beyond its association with the fictional British Secret Service agent.

Let’s dive into the long and colourful history of Aston Martin.

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What Venice’s New Tourist Tax Means for Your Next Trip

The Italian city will now charge visitors an entry fee during peak season. 

By Abby Montanez 01/05/2024

Visiting the Floating City just got a bit more expensive.

Venice is officially the first metropolis in the world to start implementing a day-trip fee in an effort to help the Italian hot spot combat overtourism during peak season, The Associated Press reported. The new program, which went into effect, requires travellers to cough up roughly €5 (about $AUD8.50) per person before they can explore the city’s canals and historic sites. Back in January, Venice also announced that starting in June, it would cap the size of tourist groups to 25 people and prohibit loudspeakers in the city centre and the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello.

“We need to find a new balance between the tourists and residents,’ Simone Venturini, the city’s top tourism official, told AP News. “We need to safeguard the spaces of the residents, of course, and we need to discourage the arrival of day-trippers on some particular days.”

During this trial phase, the fee only applies to the 29 days deemed the busiest—between April 25 and July 14—and tickets will remain valid from 8:30 am to 4 pm. Visitors under 14 years of age will be allowed in free of charge in addition to guests with hotel reservations. However, the latter must apply online beforehand to request an exemption. Day-trippers can also pre-pay for tickets online via the city’s official tourism site or snap them up in person at the Santa Lucia train station.

“With courage and great humility, we are introducing this system because we want to give a future to Venice and leave this heritage of humanity to future generations,” Venice Mayor Luigi Brugnaro said in a statement on X (formerly known as Twitter) regarding the city’s much-talked-about entry fee.

Despite the mayor’s backing, it’s apparent that residents weren’t totally pleased with the program. The regulation led to protests and riots outside of the train station, The Independent reported. “We are against this measure because it will do nothing to stop overtourism,” resident Cristina Romieri told the outlet. “Moreover, it is such a complex regulation with so many exceptions that it will also be difficult to enforce it.”

While Venice is the first city to carry out the new day-tripper fee, several other European locales have introduced or raised tourist taxes to fend off large crowds and boost the local economy. Most recently, Barcelona increased its city-wide tourist tax. Similarly, you’ll have to pay an extra “climate crisis resilience” tax if you plan on visiting Greece that will fund the country’s disaster recovery projects.

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