
Dye For The Cause
Seventy years on from the seminal era of Dean and Brando, denim remains an alluring symbol of sartorial rebellion—sometimes in the unlikeliest of places.
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Late last year, with most of its usual crowd away for the holidays, a quiet Wall Street became the setting for one of the unlikeliest sartorial scandals to take place in sport for some time. At its heart was Magnus Carlsen, universally regarded as the greatest chess player of his generation, who abruptly left the World Rapid Chess Championships after falling afoul of the dress codes of the governing body FIDE (the common acronym for its French denomination, Fédération Internationale des Échecs).
Carlsen’s crime? The age-old faux pas of turning up in jeans. The federation asked Carlsen to return to his hotel room and change. The Norwegian refused, instead offering to accept the fine and obey the rules the next day. FIDE remained steadfast. Carlsen, both the sport’s most powerful mind and its most influential voice, simply walked out.
“They can enforce their rules,” Carlsen said in an interview later on. “That’s fine by me. My response is, ‘Fine, then I’m out, fuck you.’”
While Carlsen’s reasons for showing FIDE the figurative V-sign go far beyond his own dress preferences, the last two words of his statement remain indicative of how denim, now widely normalised in all but the most stuffy of settings, has a strange tendency to enter the conversation whenever stories emerge of young people rebelling against aged institutions. As Louisa Thomas of The New Yorker put it in her article on the fiasco: “Jeans aren’t just pants. They’ve been a fuck-you symbol ever since Marlon Brando wore a pair in The Wild One.’

Denim remains an enduring, cross-generational hallmark of resistance for myriad reasons, but the roots of its appeal remain firmly grounded in the romance of counter-cultural, working-class ideals. The textile originated as a canvas for hardy workwear in the late 19th century but took on a sheen of defiant sexiness as brooding, unruly cowboys traversed the plains in jeans in the Hollywood westerns of the ’20s and ’30s. Brando and Dean enshrined it as the uniform of unruly poster boys in the ’50s. In the decades since, punks, rockers, rappers and emos have all adopted denim as their own—a one-fabric-fits-all badge of protest against the golf club managers, Reaganites and, indeed, chess tournament stooges of the world.
Even so, the 21st century has seen denim re-established as a material worthy of reverence even in the highest echelons of couture fashion. Jeans, trucker jackets and even Canadian tuxedos—once reserved almost exclusively for the smart-casual dominion—have become a red carpet staple and, at times, a talisman of wider shifts in high fashion. Hedi Slimane’s Dior made skinny jeans a uniform garment for noughties cool kids. Drop crotches and biker pants from the likes of Off-White, Amiri and Acne Studios became unofficial grails as streetwear and hip-hop culture took over high fashion in the late 2010s.

Recent years have seen a return to a more considered mindset in both menswear and womenswear, changing the way we’ve come to appreciate denim once more. Vintage cuts from iconic brands like Ralph Lauren and Levi’s have skyrocketed in value, while communities of raw and selvedge denim collectors continue to shine a light on artisanal manufacturers from the US and Japan.
Rick Owens, Balmain and Acne Studios are but a few major names to have reworked denim into eye-catching gowns in recent years, while naturally, given the event’s Americana theme, the material also featured heavily at the 2022 Met Gala. In a way, these moments represented a counter-cultural statement of their own—a declaration that a textile long pigeonholed by traditional notions of class and convention could still provide a canvas for something beautiful and elevated.
Why, then, does denim remain materia non grata in so many old-school establishments? “Power trippers,” is the simple answer Australian stylist Jeff Lack gives us. “Denim represents the romance of youth—for many of us, in our late teens, they’re the first truly rebellious purchase we make for ourselves.” Giorgio Armani once said “jeans represent democracy in fashion”. It stands to reason, then, that they’ll remain an easy target for those who think, be it in the clubhouse or the White House, that conservatism should prevail.
Of course, times are undeniably changing—even if some are proving undeniably slow on the uptake. Dress codes continue to relax year-on-year as institutions like golf and members’ clubs hunt a new generation of affiliates. Casualwear, once defined by a constant cycle of overnight trends and overconsumption, has homogenised and placed a renewed emphasis on individuality and sustainability. Timeless, durable and trend-resistant garments have taken on a fresh sense of romance as a result, with nondescript, straight-cut jeans now a subtle statement of considered dressing.

Regardless, denim’s position as a sartorial totem of defiance remains unchallenged. An undeniable sense remains that jeans will remain centre stage as the young and the restless rail against the global order’s violent lurch to the right. It’s no coincidence that Kendrick Lamar, taking to the stage in February to deliver a Super Bowl show aimed partly at Trump’s white supremacist vision of America, did so in a pair of flared Celine jeans—proving that whether the battleground is a gridiron or a chess board, no other fabric is up for the fight like denim.
The Denim Edit

Blue two-tone denim jacket $2,850; fendi.com


Saint Laurent denim jacket $1,999; mrporter.com

Cassandre overshirt in Trouville beach blue denim $1,500; saintlaurent.com
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